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Author Topic: Blade Bowing  (Read 2179 times)

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Offline j napier

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Blade Bowing
« on: September 11, 2013, 08:05:13 PM »
We have a 00 Frick mill, as we cut the blade bows in towards the husk at the top, and pushes the carriage off track.  Any ideas as to what is causing this??????     THANKS

Offline beenthere

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #1 on: September 11, 2013, 08:12:56 PM »
Welcome to the Forestry Forum.
Yes, some ideas, but some better experts, such as Ron and Jeff plus others, will be along to give you some pointers.
Here is a link to a thread on the forum, possibly discussing what you are experiencing.
http://www.forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,58233.msg969865.html#msg969865

See post #720 for starters.

In the meantime, suggest not running the saw. Sounds a bit dangerous.
What can you tell us about the mill before this problem came up?
Saw hammered? Saw sharpened? Mill aligned and adjusted true?

If you haven't seen it yet, here is some great reading about circular sawmills that may be of some help.

http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/misc/circsaw.pdf
south central Wisconsin
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Offline dgdrls

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #2 on: September 11, 2013, 08:49:19 PM »
yikes!!! :o

I'm with Beenthere, no more sawing until you solve that issue

http://sawdoc.com/troubleshooter.htm
another good source to work from.

DGDrls

Offline j napier

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #3 on: September 11, 2013, 09:42:02 PM »
I think I will do some home work on it,,make you wont to just give up on it...

Offline thecfarm

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #4 on: September 11, 2013, 09:47:36 PM »
j napier,welcome to the forum. Been sawing long? That old mill still has alot of sawing left in it.  ;D  Help is on the way.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline Magicman

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #5 on: September 11, 2013, 09:50:18 PM »
Hello j napier, and Welcome to the Forestry Forum. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Offline drobertson

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #6 on: September 11, 2013, 10:05:27 PM »
sound dull to me, and maybe some serious misalignment with the carriage.  david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Offline j napier

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #7 on: September 11, 2013, 10:27:45 PM »
been sawing for 4 years with a small bandsaw. just was to slow. lol need all the help I can git on this circle mill..thanks all for the welcome

Offline nk14zp

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #8 on: September 11, 2013, 10:43:25 PM »
Welcome to the site.  Are the rpms enough?  Is the lead set right.
Belsaw 36/18 duplex mill.
Belsaw 802 edger.
http://belsawsawmills.freeforums.org/

Offline Deese

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #9 on: September 11, 2013, 11:08:03 PM »
Welcome to FF  :)
2004 LT40 Super 51hp diesel
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Last Summer Was HOT.

Offline beenthere

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #10 on: September 11, 2013, 11:27:38 PM »
Can you give us some history on the circle mill?
Did you just start using it and the problem presented itself?
Or did it develop over time?

History of the blade?
History of the sharpening?

Any extra info will help track down your problem which may be simple and it may be real involved.

Help us help you.
south central Wisconsin
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Offline giant splinter

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #11 on: September 12, 2013, 01:09:05 AM »
Are you sure the blade is bowing? or is it "dishing"  if it's dishing it might be a worn shaft or a bad collar.
roll with it

Offline j napier

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #12 on: September 12, 2013, 06:14:52 AM »
just got the mill and got it up. the guy I got it from said it didn't do any thing like that with him..so im going to check lead and make sure it is sharp. I got everything true on the plum. will know more today lol or be at the E.R hope not...

Offline nk14zp

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #13 on: September 12, 2013, 06:40:05 AM »
When you put it back together did you get the collars in the right spot?
Belsaw 36/18 duplex mill.
Belsaw 802 edger.
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Offline bandmiller2

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #14 on: September 12, 2013, 07:03:50 AM »
Welcome "J" its tough to troubleshoot at a distance.How does the saw run with no log does it wobble or stand up straight.? Have you tried different logs hard and soft wood.Did you mean it pushed the carriage off the rails or it wasen't tracking straight.?Sounds like at the very least you need the saw tensioned [hammered] and double check your lead.What is your power plant,does the saw slow down in the cut,or are the belts slipping.?Sorry mate for so many questions but with circular mills everything is tied togather and affects outher things.Don't get discouraged  tell us more and pictures if you can figure it out how to post them. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Offline thecfarm

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #15 on: September 12, 2013, 10:25:26 AM »
the guy I got it from said it didn't do any thing like that with him..so im going to check lead and make sure it is sharp.

I take it no help from him.  ::)  Now if I sold something like that and it did not saw right I would try to help. I wonder if he was having trouble with it too.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Offline j napier

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #16 on: September 12, 2013, 12:51:18 PM »
don't know if the guy is all up and up. it was took down when I got it from him so just on his word. I going to put new teeth in it and try that.

Offline Fla._Deadheader

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #17 on: September 12, 2013, 04:09:56 PM »

 There should never be any side pressure on a circle saw blade.

 I would put the leading headblock bunk right at the leading edge of the blade and measure the distance from the carriage side blade tip, to the end of the headblock bunk. Then, run the carriage to the same tooth to the other 180 sid eof the blade and measure that. You only want, roughly 1/16"-1/8" LESS on the leading edge than the trailing edge of the blade. Mark that tooth before moving anything, just in case the blade is warped.

 As bandmiller asked, is the blade standing straight up at speed, or waving back and forth, side to side ??

 Blade is closer to the log bunk on the edge nearest to you, rather than on the farthest edge.

 Hard to 'splain.  ::) ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Offline Ron Wenrich

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #18 on: September 12, 2013, 04:54:43 PM »
I'm thinking it might be someplace other than the saw.  First thing I always do when I have a problem like this, I put in new bits.  You don't have to throw the old ones away, but that eliminates any problem you have with sharpening.  I'm assuming that if its dishing in, its also getting hot. 

If the saw is pushing the carriage off the track, my guess is your track is not in alignment.  You should have put a string line on your track before you put the carriage on it.  If the track is not perpendicular to the husk, you can be traveling in a "U" and when the front of your carriage is ahead of the husk, it can push against your saw. 

Another problem can be loose wheels.  Are the bearings in good shape?  To find out, push against your carriage.  If it moves on the trucks, it could be moving in your cut.  That would push against the saw.

On the saw side, you have to make sure you're not pushing with the saw guides.  Make sure the lead is set right.  Too often guys set it backwards.  It could also mean that your saw needs hammered.  It might even be a cracked saw.  Collars could be worn. 

There's also the problem of feed rates.  Feed to fast and your saw won't take it.  Feed it too slow and you get fine sawdust.  If the shanks are worn, the dust can spill out and push your saw and heat it up.  Your saw should sound the same from the beginning of the cut to the end.  If its dying down, you're either getting belt slippage, or you don't have enough hp to run the saw.  When it slows down, you're saw is spinning slower than what its hammered for.  That will cause it to lay over. 

That should give you enough to get started.  Just tell us what you have done so far.  As said, pictures would be nice.
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Offline j napier

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Re: Blade Bowing
« Reply #19 on: September 14, 2013, 08:35:01 AM »
thanks everyone you all was a big help got every thing took care of on it, trying to find the bits for the blade now. got looking at the and seen where I hit something in a log. but way it go's I try to git some pic's up soon..


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