Useful sawmill mods

[backwoods sawyer]

When I picked up my mill the previous owner had removed the whole assembly and mumbled about what a pain it was to use.

Guess he never did figure out how to get it to function correctly.

[Dave Shepard]

I broke my LubeMizer hose on the corner of a big cant about 4 years ago. I got a PTC union and cut fresh ends on it and went back to work. I caught it again not long after, and had to replace the one section of hose. I had to modify the PTC connector for the new hose, as it wouldn't fit, so it was just loose on that side. It would pull out if it got caught on a cant, so that was ok, as at least it wasn't breaking. The original polyethylene tubing got brittle, and cracked under the engine, so I found a package of 1/4" O.D. poly hose at Home Depot last night. 25' for $3. Now I have a new hose and two spares. I know some other people have caught their hoses, so I took a photo of how I rerouted mine. It is sort of in the way of the tensioner handle, but not really an issue. The way it loops when the guide arm is all the way out, it won't snag on a cant, just rub the side of the log.



 

[Peter Drouin]

Nice job, 8) 8)

[Dave Shepard]

Next I have to take my triangle debarker belt off and rotate it.

[Peter Drouin]

Yes you do. :D :D :D :D :D :D

[Dave Shepard]

Rain today. It can stay triangulated for now.

[Chuck White]

Next I have to take my triangle debarker belt off and rotate it.

I don't understand.

[Magicman]

Sounds completely worn out.   ???

[Dave Shepard]

Peter broke his debarker shifter shaft, and Marty Parsons suggested checking that the belt hadn't become rusted to the sheave.

Read about it here.

[Magicman]

I am familiar with the thread but I was in Oklahoma for a couple of days and missed the triangle.   :-\

[Peter Drouin]

I am familiar with the thread but I was in Oklahoma for a couple of days and missed the triangle.   :-\

 
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D ;D

[Chuck White]

Now I see it after looking at the pic, thanks Peter.

I think you should run that debarker a little more, either that or maybe the belt is hardened because of age!

[Magicman]

either that or maybe the belt is hardened because of age!

Does that include backs and knees??   smiley_old_guy

[Chuck White]

Yup, seems to be that way, Lynn.

[Bandmill Bandit]

I change that belt every spring now. Cheap preventative maintenance. i have changed that little shaft twice. now I just put a new belt on ever spring after an over night soak in a pan of ATF or dextron

[scully]

I dug the mill out from winter storage and before anything else I did my live hydraulics mod . I have an LT 40 SUPER with remote command . I found that haveing to move the head back and work my hydraulics was a total pain in the butt ! so I ran 1 OT welding cable through my cat track and back to the pump box and then into the connection for the contact shoe . . No more power strip ! I can now use the hydraulics at any time ,saveing steps and time for last board off bearing and for the occasional oops my backstops are to high.....

[YellowHammer]

Scully,
That mod is an amazing time saver.  My sawing output jumped significantly.  If you are going to use the board return, then don't forget to weld the board carrying strip to the bottom of the paddle.  It will really save steps, too.
YH

[Bandmill Bandit]

 

 
[/quote]

i did a re work of the hose connection that works very well. Have not ripped a hose off since.



 



 



 

There are more pics of this mod in the gallery

[Kbeitz]

Wow.... Right in the middle of building my mill I found this 48 pages of stuff to do....
I thought I was almost done building... I guess it will be another couple weeks doing mods.
This was a long read... Great ideas...

[flatrock58]

Decided to change out the 2" hitch with a lunette ring for a pintle hitch.  Made it so I can remove the lunette ring to make the mill harder to steal.

 

[mesquite buckeye]

cool ;D

[petefrom bearswamp]

Scully My neighbor did this.I have toyed with the idea but am too cheap to buy cable

[Peter Drouin]

I put a hose clamp on top of the rubber to stop it from splitting apart.


 
And put in one of these.

 

[addysdaddy]

 8) 8) 8) So I think I have finally cured the clamp problem with my LT-10...  :snowball:It was always an issue trying to get the clamp to stay tight and when just trying to keep it snug as some folks recommended it would vibrate loose which was even less fun.  >:( There was also the issue of it pushing the CANT up and out of square... also a tad aggravating. So as I sat with my Coffee this morning I thought that if there were teeth on the end of the clamp screw and they didn't spin with the clamp screw and if it was as large as the clamp housing (Yeah I know that's a lot of ands but bear with me)... All those things being correct then it would hold straight and allow me to lower the clamp and get a better grip on the log or cant. OKAY so here goes.

First I measured the screw to see what size adapter I would need... turns out 3/8 is the perfect and convenient size for the project. The clamp screw housing is 1 1/2 inch threaded pipe. So I droped in to the local hardware store and picked up a new 3/8 steel drill bit. also a FORSTNER style bit with a 3/8 shank and a 1 1/2 inch head with teeth. I took both of these out to my handy dandy gunsmith since he has the nice drill press and had him drill me a nice straight 3/8 hole in the end of the screw.



 

Then I just replaced the screw post in the clamp. inserted the FORSTNER bit and WEE HAW 8) 8) 8)I can clamp the cants or logs without them riding up or having the clamp shake loose... I can also now cut within 1 1/8 inch of the bed so my last board is 1 1/8 thick...



 

This may not be earth shattering for some folks but it's sure gonna make my days easier... And as the topic states... It may be my idea but I'm not patenting it so everybody feel free to copy as you wish...    ;D

[East ky logging]

Looks like a good idea. I'm going to try that on one of my clamps.Does the forstener bit just slide in and out of the clamp?