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Best all around sawmill support saw?

Started by kellysguy, April 29, 2015, 06:58:49 PM

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kellysguy

I have recently purchased a TK1220 and I need a good quality chainsaw to accompany it. I want something light but powerful, high quality that can handle felling if need be but not wear me out limbing out logs or cutting to length. I like Stihls but I see folks recommending Echo.  I may do 2 jobs a month so I don't need a true pro saw but I still want a good quality unit if that makes any sense. Do I need two saws or is there one that will do what I need to do? I don't mind spending the money but I would rather not if I don't have to. I guess the best way to put it is, I don't want a home owner or pro level saw rather a land owner if that makes any sense. That  being said, if another $100-$150 gets me a pro type saw I'd rather set up. Thanks

hacknchop

I use a cs-4400 echo easy starts and light 18" bar not to expensive.
Often wrong never indoubt

Blackgreyhounds

60 cc. saws are probably the best all-around combination.  I have an MS361 and it's light enough to limb out logs without wearing me out and strong enough to buck 30+ inch diameter oaks with a little bit of patience.  I  currently own 40, 50, 60 and 76 cc saws and if I had to keep just one, I'd keep the 361.  FWIW, in my opinion, I'd rather have one "pro" 60 cc saw than two plastic/clam shell saws.  However, if price is really crucial, I would get the Echo CS590.  Best bang for the buck, and I have a very reliable Echo dealer close by.

hamish

Its really going to depend upon the size of logs you will be milling, and cutting tasks at hand.
I use a Husky 235 (18") on my slab table to process my slabs, and a 562-576 (saw choice of the day, none of my larger saws are dedicated to solely the mill), sporting a 24-28" bar for the finer aspects of getting some logs on the mill.
In most cases production wise, removing any butt swell by means of cross cutting and being done with it.
Norwood ML26, Jonsered 2152, Husqvarna 353, 346,555,372,576

gfadvm

I have an Echo CS-400 with an 18" bar and love it! Super light weight, starts EVERY time, and has never disappointed me.

sandsawmill14

I use a stihl  441 mag that I use at the mill  I have a 038 I was using but it was to small for splitting logs but I get alot of oversized logs (40"+) I have 038 441mag and 064 but the 441 gets all the use. It all depends on the logs you will be sawing. I use a 28" bar most of the time but with smaller timber a 18 or 20" bar would be enough. Imo buy the most saw you can afford as you will not be using it all day like you would logging and 10cc more will make alot of difference when you have to use full length of bar. good luck :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

ladylake

Quote from: gfadvm on April 29, 2015, 08:42:44 PM
I have an Echo CS-400 with an 18" bar and love it! Super light weight, starts EVERY time, and has never disappointed me.

    I have lots of saws but you won't catch me milling without a couple of CS400 Echo saws, one for each side.   Steve
,
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

hacknchop

Kellysguy  I think most will agree that the 4 most popular brands are good shop around and find a good dealer and you should be off to races.
Often wrong never indoubt

kellysguy

I've got a Stihl dealer a few miles away and rally like Stihls, HOWEVER; I want one made in Germany. Are all of them made in the US now? (Don't get me wrong, I'd rather have them made here if not there.)

I've heard that you can't get parts for Dewalt tools made for Home Depot. Is this true for Echo products, does echo make a different line/quality product for HD?

kellysguy

Considering a MS261 right now, too small for a mill support saw?

As far as tree size  want to cut; whatever I can get my hands on and make fit in a TK 1220. ;)

thechknhwk

I have an MS260, and it's the saw I take with me when I go mobile sawing.  I figure if it requires more work than the 260 can handle it's the customer's problem :D

4x4American

261 is highly spoken of.  I like  the 036-362 line from stihl.  for falling trees I usually take a 70cc saw along. for a saw around the mill I keep handy my 362 sporting a 20" bar and a 660 or 066 with a 36" bar.


Get the biggest Stihl you can and I wouldn't go smaller than a 20" bar, but that's just me.

Boy, back in my day..

kellysguy

I'm a fan of 20" and above. I don't want to get too much saw. My good friend who died a few years ago (he was 93) had a Stihl he bought after Camile in '69 that is an absolute beast. It must weigh 85#s. I plan on asking his wife if I can borrow it indefinitely. That ol' fella swung that saw all day long for two weeks straight after Katrina at 85 years old!

4x4American

That's a man right there!  Do you remeber what model?
Boy, back in my day..

ladylake

 I used to be young and dumb, now I use the lightest saw that will get the job done.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

motownbrowne

Around my mill I usually have my 50cc Shindaiwa. Either that or my MS 361. You don't mention which, if any saws you already have. I really think 2 is a minimum, a 50cc for limbing, tossing in the back of the truck, etc and a 70-80 cc saw for felling and bucking. I bought my ms 361 (60 cc) as a compromise when I couldn't afford 2 saws. Then I got a screaming deal on my Shindaiwa and found myself leaving the 361 on the ground after felling because the Shindaiwa is so nice and light.

Now I have an ms 460 too, and the 361 really doesn't have much to do. It's a great saw, but for felling and bucking I want the power of 76ccs and for everything else I want as little weight as possible.

So, assuming your starting from scratch, I'd buy a 50cc saw. Pro Stihl or Husky would be nice, but an Echo would be just fine and dandy. Then when you're ready, score a big saw. This way you won't be stuck with a comprise saw in the middle once you're set up.

kellysguy

I have a 2005 42cc Poulan Pro with a 20" bar and a 1957 McCulloch Super 55 that belonged to my grandfather. I'm working on getting the 55 running just for posterity's sake but might cut some with it till the vibration wears me out.


BTW, I stand corrected; I just did the math and he was 87, not 85. smiley_thumbsup_grin

ohwc

Go for a pro saw. You will not regret it and in the long run it will be cheaper if you maintain it. I would get around a 70cc Stihl, which would be their smallest pro felling saw. Still light enough for trimming logs etc.

bandmiller2

If you have electric service get a good electric, I have A Milwaukee with a 20" bar, sure easy to start. A lot of cutting any saw that's handy for you. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

motownbrowne

If you've already got a 42cc, I'd be temped to go with a 70cc. Something like a MS440 or Husky 372. It'll be a little heavy for all & day use, but it'll put a smile on your face. You can use the Poulan for limbing and cutting slabs if you want and the big saw for felling and bucking to length.

kellysguy

I found a 441 Magnum new for $849. It didn't say anything about m-tronic or anything other than 441 Magnum on the saw. How do I tell if this is just older stock or if it has the new stuff I don't want?


Quote from: motownbrowne on May 04, 2015, 09:26:30 AM
. You can use the Poulan for limbing and cutting slabs

Wouldn't I want to use the bigger saw for slabbing; am I missing something. Please remember I'm new to this.

4x4American

If it has M tronic it won't have carburetor adjustments.


They are good saws.  Get the biggest you can get.  I am not sure how the 441s are but the 044 is a great saw I can tell you that. 


I prefer the 46 class though.  The 044 is a little bit more lightweight/less power for a 70cc saw and the 46 class is more muscular.


If it's sawmill support saw I wouldn't really consider weight much, around the mill usually you pick it up make a cut put it down and go on about your business.  If you have more power you can also push the saw through the wood better if the chain is dull and you don't have time to sharp it.  Just don't let it wind right out keep it lugged down.


If you can get into that 441 mag with the warranty and all I'd gopher it. 
Boy, back in my day..

sandsawmill14

I am well pleased with my 441 magnum with 28" bar :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

motownbrowne

Quote from: kellysguy on May 04, 2015, 05:10:05 PM
I found a 441 Magnum new for $849. It didn't say anything about m-tronic or anything other than 441 Magnum on the saw. How do I tell if this is just older stock or if it has the new stuff I don't want?


Quote from: motownbrowne on May 04, 2015, 09:26:30 AM
. You can use the Poulan for limbing and cutting slabs

Wouldn't I want to use the bigger saw for slabbing; am I missing something. Please remember I'm new to this.

By "cutting slabs" I meant cutting the slabwood that you cut from the outside of the log (with your sawmill) into lengths that will fit into whatever device you're burning them in (woodstove, boiler, etc). I certainly would not recommend making slabs with a 42cc Poulan.

Regarding the 441, make sure it's M-tronic if you're buying it new. Reviews on that saw seem to be great. I've never run one myself. I just bought a lightly used ms460 for $640. For $200 more you get a new saw with a warranty and the latest technology. Both sound like good options to me. If that's the price on the shelf at the dealer, remember to ask for a decent discount.

4x4American

I have a friend who bought a 441 m tronic saw.  He had computer problems with it right off the bat.  He had to bring it to the dealer to have them plug it into their computer, and I guess they fixed it and he loves it now.
Boy, back in my day..

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