Wallee's Milling Thread

Verticaltrx · August 28, 2015, 08:40:00 PM

Nice to see people posting pics and vids, especially others with a similar mill.

The water drip depends on the species, in a fresh hardwood log that has plenty of moisture in it I might not run any at all. If there starts to be some build up I'll add a slow drip. In pine with a lot of sap I add Pinesol and run a small stream on the blade if it is really building up. Just have to figure it out a little as you go, there's really no right or wrong answer.

As for stickers, I cut all my stickers, stacking sticks (2x3's used between stacks to get the forks in), and blocks (4x6's used on the ground, on truck beds etc) to about 42-44". This works for my operation because my forks are 42" and therefore I try to make my stacks that wide as well. Two stacks side by side are about 7' and fit well on a truck or trailer bed.

Wallee · August 29, 2015, 12:47:11 AM

I need more shed storage space! For the time being, what are my options for keeping my stacked lumber in its best shape outside? Tarps? Tin on top?

beenthere · August 29, 2015, 01:35:50 AM

Good solid, level bunks on the bottom for foundation (10-12" space above ground to first wood layer), stickers in direct vertical line above each bunk and 12-24" spacing between stickers, with waterproof cover above the stack about 6-8" air space. Weights on top to hold everything down tight.
Stack located for good air movement through the stack.

For starters.. ;)

Wallee · August 29, 2015, 01:55:53 AM

Quote from: beenthere on August 29, 2015, 01:35:50 AM
Good solid, level bunks on the bottom for foundation (10-12" space above ground to first wood layer), stickers in direct vertical line above each bunk and 12-24" spacing between stickers, with waterproof cover above the stack about 6-8" air space. Weights on top to hold everything down tight.
Stack located for good air movement through the stack.

For starters.. ;)

Ha ha post a pic!!
I need to visualize this!

WDH · August 29, 2015, 07:13:13 AM

Here is a pic of a stickered stack with a solid, level foundation. Can't help you with the top covering except to say that if you are serious about sawmilling, you are going to need an air drying shed. The foundations take a lot of time to make and do it right, so you don't want to be moving them. Therefore, if you are not going to be moving them, you may as well build a permanent roof.

Magicman · August 29, 2015, 07:54:50 AM

Quote from: Wallee on August 29, 2015, 12:47:11 AMI need more shed storage space! For the time being, what are my options for keeping my stacked lumber in its best shape outside? Tarps? Tin on top?

That is the other reason that I got out of the lumber business. No storage shed and no place to build one.

4x4American · August 29, 2015, 05:31:13 PM

What i do is sticker stack lumber on long pallets ive built so i can move them easy with loader. Then i put a row of spacers on top, and put a piece of tin or plywood, or stagger stack slabs two layers thick. I aim to shed the bulk of the rain and allow airflow. Not saying this is proper, but it works for me for the time being.

Wallee · August 29, 2015, 11:10:36 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on August 29, 2015, 05:31:13 PM
What i do is sticker stack lumber on long pallets ive built so i can move them easy with loader. Then i put a row of spacers on top, and put a piece of tin or plywood, or stagger stack slabs two layers thick. I aim to shed the bulk of the rain and allow airflow. Not saying this is proper, but it works for me for the time being.

I might do something like this to get me by! I am going to clean out my old barn and get it back up and going so I can store a few thousand feet! I am not cutting random lumber to sell just having a lot of side cuts from sawing cross ties. I just want to maximize what a log brings me $ wise and stacked barn sidding might just be the "market" for it around! I have had several calls about buying a mbf of mixed hardwood by wood workers but no one has showed up yet... talk is cheap ;) :D

4x4American · August 29, 2015, 11:16:56 PM

sho ams!

another thing, you dont half two use pallets, i just think they're convenient. I also saw out 3x6 dunnage and set lumber on top of chunks of them. I've found that when you stack em on the soft ground the stack will self level if you put enough weight on it. I've heard of folks breaking out a stringline, but just get it close as you can and let gravity work the rest out. It depends what you have for dirt though.

sandsawmill14 · August 29, 2015, 11:36:17 PM

wallee heres the pic of how im set up now

i dont know how well it would work without hydraulics though

Wallee · August 30, 2015, 09:41:11 AM

Quote from: sandsawmill14 on August 29, 2015, 11:36:17 PM
wallee heres the pic of how im set up now

i dont know how well it would work without hydraulics though

Nice! Biggest hydraulic upgrade I want is a hydraulic clamp!

Magicman · August 30, 2015, 02:20:39 PM

Hydraulic clamps are standard on LT40's. ;D

Wallee · August 31, 2015, 12:17:05 AM

Quote from: Magicman on August 30, 2015, 02:20:39 PM
Hydraulic clamps are standard on LT40's. ;D

Ha ha my wife would get you for encouraging me to spend money lol! But on a serious note, I cut a 4x6 cant tonight and it was all over the place. This mill is consistently cutting 2 16ths off.... Two middle bunks every single time are 2/16ths from touching the cant at the deck.

4x4American · August 31, 2015, 07:44:40 AM

What species are you cutting? Are you keeping a sharp blade on it? Does it ever cut perfect or is it off 1/8" every single doggone time? Have you stringlined the mill to check the deck when there's a log off it and on it? Also try moving the head down the track while you have the stringline on it. Once the deck is crossed off the list, check your headrig alignment, to be sure. If it's still doing it then you might better sell it and get a 40. lol

Magicman · August 31, 2015, 09:05:00 AM

Go back and review your support under the sawmill bed verifying that the bed is level and solidly supported. Then measure the distance from the blade to each bunk, measuring from each blade guide. I suspect that you are overlooking something simple.

Magicman · August 31, 2015, 09:48:13 AM

I have a suspicion that you are missing the subtle signs of stress being released as you remove boards from the log/cant. You can not prevent this, but you have to react when you see an end (or center) lifting from the sawmill bed by turning the cant 180° and removing boards from the opposite side. Often after removing only one board. I have a huge C clamp that I sometimes have to use to pull the center down to the bed after turning.

Wallee · August 31, 2015, 10:05:06 AM

Quote from: 4x4American on August 31, 2015, 07:44:40 AM
What species are you cutting? Are you keeping a sharp blade on it? Does it ever cut perfect or is it off 1/8" every single doggone time? Have you stringlined the mill to check the deck when there's a log off it and on it? Also try moving the head down the track while you have the stringline on it. Once the deck is crossed off the list, check your headrig alignment, to be sure. If it's still doing it then you might better sell it and get a 40. lol

Mostly oak and a few gums so far. Have changed blades several times. its 1/8" every single cant always in the center. I tightened the blade once and cut a cant that was 1/16th off but this mill has never to this day cut a single cant that was a solid number from end to end. I understand pressure in a log a bit now but that plain out isnt the case here. This mill cuts consistantly OFF! I will recheck the bed today but I have been through this before, the thing is level as it can be, and besides where it seemed a little off before I tried to lift that specific spot with a jack and it in turn lifted the entire mill bed. I haven't pulled a string yet so that will be my first thing to do today and see if I can find it there. Going to cut 3 1" blocks and pull a string and see if it somthing off there like some of you guys suggested in one of my other threads.

Wallee · August 31, 2015, 10:09:07 AM

Quote from: Magicman on August 31, 2015, 09:48:13 AM
I have a suspicion that you are missing the subtle signs of stress being released as you remove boards from the log/cant. You can not prevent this, but you have to react when you see an end (or center) lifting from the sawmill bed by turning the cant 180° and removing boards from the opposite side. Often after removing only one board. I have a huge C clamp that I sometimes have to use to pull the center down to the bed after turning.

I will have to cut another today and see what I can figure out. It may be this. But I wouldn't think so unless it does this on every single log out there!

Magicman · August 31, 2015, 03:30:52 PM

Quote from: Wallee on August 31, 2015, 10:09:07 AMBut I wouldn't think so unless it does this on every single log out there!

Since it is sawing consistently and to an exact pattern, then the sawmill is sawing in exact accordance with the way it is set up, adjusted, and aligned.

If the bed is level and on a solid foundation, and then if the blade measures the exact same distance from each bunk as it is rolled from one end of the bed to the other, then the sawmill should be OK. That would mean that the blade is consistently rising or diving in the cut which seems highly unlikely. Sharp blades and properly aligned blade guides, plus proper blade tension and drive belt tension will prevent blade diving and waves.

WDH · August 31, 2015, 08:17:22 PM

You have not pulled the string yet?

Pretty simple thing to do, and it will tell you a lot

.

Wallee · September 01, 2015, 12:19:54 PM

Quote from: Magicman on August 31, 2015, 03:30:52 PM
Quote from: Wallee on August 31, 2015, 10:09:07 AMBut I wouldn't think so unless it does this on every single log out there!
Since it is sawing consistently and to an exact pattern, then the sawmill is sawing in exact accordance with the way it is set up, adjusted, and aligned.

If the bed is level and on a solid foundation, and then if the blade measures the exact same distance from each bunk as it is rolled from one end of the bed to the other, then the sawmill should be OK. That would mean that the blade is consistently rising or diving in the cut which seems highly unlikely. Sharp blades and properly aligned blade guides, plus proper blade tension and drive belt tension will prevent blade diving and waves.

Proper drive belt tension, how do I know it is right? I haven't noticed it slipping. I did however adjust it tighter while on the phone with a woodmizer consultant when trying to trouble shoot this before.

Wallee · September 04, 2015, 01:52:42 PM

Pulled a string the other day and here is what I found. I pulled the string tight from the last bunk on each end, and it was pretty much hanging 1/16 to 2/16 all the way down the bed...