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Timber Frame Cabin Build

Started by TimFromNB, April 30, 2018, 09:21:21 PM

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btulloh

Nice work.  Enjoying your thread.  Thanks for posting.

Is that a standard dozuki or does it have the special rip teeth.  I've been thinking about getting one for green wood.  Hard to find a good rip saw these days that doesn't cost and arm and two legs.
HM126

TimFromNB

Thanks Btulloh. I believe it is a Gyokucho.

I wish I could find a 2" auger bit. Would save me some pairing on the mortises. Already eyeing a chain mortiser at this point ;) Having a hard time justifying it though :)

I can only work on the frame about one day per week and winter will be here before we know it...

Brian_Weekley

Quote from: TimFromNB on July 17, 2018, 06:28:35 AM
I wish I could find a 2" auger bit. Would save me some pairing on the mortises. Already eyeing a chain mortiser at this point ;) Having a hard time justifying it though :)
It will get faster the more you do.

Consider an antique boring machine and bit--they do work well.  However, as an experiment, I made a boring machine and it worked great.  You can get a 2" bit here:  http://logbuildingtools.ca/Wood_Auger_pricelist2.pdf

Millers Falls Dimensions in Timber Framing/Log construction
e aho laula

flyingparks

Looking great. A chain mortiser really speeds things up. If you look around a bit you'll find a brand new Makita for about $1600. My chain is still sharp on mine. But my friend recently told me replacements are $700. Ouch. I really enjoy using the boring machine on smaller projects.

Don P

You can file the chain, it's a little tricky but do-able. It's rare to see a used chain mortise for sale, they disappear fast. You lightly hollowed the bearing surface, high end work :)

IMERC

Yes, very nice work and I am enjoying your thread... 
Thanks for posting.
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

IMERC

Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

Brian_Weekley

Never tried one of those Milwaukee self-feed bits, but without the flutes on an auger, I can't see how they would clear chips from deep mortises or holes very well.
e aho laula

btulloh

I have a Bosch bit that is the same design as the Milwaukee.  Does not clear chips well at all.  It does indeed self feed and can get itself in and jammed with chips before you can stop it.  You can make it work but it's always on the edge of jamming on the chips, especially in green wood.  This is 1/2".  Maybe the bigger ones clear chips better.
HM126

Don P

not really much better. when the chips get around and over it, better pull up and remove them. they were really designed to punch through thinner stock and then self clear. in log work or heavy timber you can bury a fluted auger beyond your power to pull or drill power to reverse your way out. so any drill can be jammed like that, they each have different points. just be aware and clear as needed.

Jim1611

"Let every man be swift to hear, slow to speak, slow to wrath."

TimFromNB

Thanks for the feedback guys :). I am in the process of trying to build a boring machine with inspiration from Brian. That 2" bit is 18" long though, so I might stick with the 1 1/2".

Finished my first post. Started layout on the 2nd and am having a problem transferring lines from my reference face. It seems like there is a 1/4" bow in the top of the log where the half dovetail tie beam mortise will be. If I register my framing square with the blade towards the bottom of the post, I get a different transferred line location than if I register it towards the top. This is because in both cases, the square is square to that 24" of edge, but is within the bow and is at angle to the overall straight edge of the timber. What kind of tolerance do I have here? At what point do I start having to use chalk lines?

It is giving me just under 1/16" difference, which could mean that one side of the mortise shoulder is 1/16th lower than the other, i.e. out of square.

Registered to top: 


 

Registered to bottom (can't really see error in this photo - right edge):




Close up of error (distance from middle of thick line to thin line):
 





Another question, should I dish out my mortise housings for shrinkage or keep them square?

  

 

  

First post completed:

 


Thanks for your help!

TimFromNB

Finished the drill press a few days ago. Kind of a hack job, but it is a utility piece ;). Hopefully I can test it out tomorrow.




 

 

Loaded up some of the slabs as well. Starting to get wormy.



 

TimFromNB

Finished the second post. Although I wasn't thinking right and hollowed out the bottom bearing surface of the post...I'll have to fill that in with epoxy or something :D.



 

Got to try out the boring machine. Worked pretty good:


 
Those through mortises are self cleaning :)



 

"Visually graded" the 8x10 tie beams. One seems to have some shake and another has pretty severe splits I think are from the felling (starts bottom left corner of picture below). It goes out on the left face, basically creating a triangular piece, almost like if there was a LOT of wane over a 4-5 ft length. This specific tie beam would not be carrying any vertical load (except exterior sheathing) but is tying the two eve walls. I have one spare, so I either pick the one with shake or with split. Or I try to get another beam somehow.


 



 

They all have some twist in them...hoping it is not my stack that is off ;D.

I've read in Will Beemer's book to place a straight edge (framing square) on both ends and sight it down. If the straight edges are out of parallel by more than 1/8" over their length, then I need to fixed the ends or use chalk lines. But I am not sure how to measure that value visually. I might try and reach out to the author. What do you guys do to check for twist?

Speaking of twist, can you guys spot the 4 red pine timbers in this stack?  :D




sbishop

nice work, what part of NB you from?

Steve

TimFromNB

I'm about 10 mins from Shediac. Yourself?

sbishop

I'm located both ways from you, I live in Fredericton but I'm wrong the Miramichi area.

This was my project few years back! http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=22343.0

Welcome!

samandothers

s Bishop,
Enjoyed your thread.  Great job!  Hope all is holding up well at your camp.

TimFromNB

Bishop, I browsed through the thread quickly: very nice looking camp! Is that on a branch of the Miramichi? Looks like good fishing :)

Geeg

Great job Tim, will watch your progress. smiley_thumbsup

Geeg
Retired Airbus 380 Captain. Timberking 2200,  Kioti RX6010PC,  Nyle Kiln KD250, Polaris WV850

thecfarm

I cut some 8X8 from red pine. They was close to the sawmill. I could see the sawmill drooling as it looked at them. :D  I put them up green and I noticed they started to twist. I only used 2-3. I went back to hemlock.
Good luck with your build.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

TimFromNB

Haven't posted an update in a while. Got held up working on a slightly twisted tie beam, so got an ink line and figured out "snap line square rule".



 


Then I had the bright idea to test fit and raise the first bent. My Dad gave me a hand.




...but the rigging slipped and I lost most of my work to date...I was pretty upset :o. As you can see, one post is completely broken. The other has hairline splits around the tie beam mortise, so I will probably have to scarp it as well. I need to inspect the tie beam again, but the tenon might have held on without damage.
 

 

 

I noticed a few days later that there was some moisture beading in the affected joints. Must have been from the stress?



 


 

That will use up my spares. Plus, it looks like some of the other EWP timbers have shake. So I might have to go the log yard and get some more logs to have milled up...On the bright side, my joints fitted well and I ponied up the money for a chain mortiser to make up for lost time... :D

samandothers

Sorry about your bad luck with the rigging slipping.  Good lesson/reason not to be in the line of Fire when doing this.  

Hey getting new toy tool helps make up for it a little. 


Ljohnsaw

Oh, bummer. :-\  I don't trust slings on forks.  One of my forks had a hole burned through it.  I use a shackle, then nothing can slip.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

Heartwood

A good lesson here (sorry for your pain Tim, but perhaps we can learn from it):
One factor in timber frame design is the raising method.
Square rule layout from an edge, where the mortise is only 1.5" or 2" from the reference face, has limitations.
The thinner (outside) mortise wall is not designed to handle the torque that resulted from lifting only on the tie beam; the weight and levering of the posts may have twisted the dovetail joint causing the split. The tenon is unlikely to split; mortises are the weak point. Brace mortises could also fail if the bent is twisted like this.
If the bent was hand raised with the post bottoms supported by the deck this failure would likely not occur. Once the bent was vertical the joint can handle the stresses it was meant to take in service with no problem.
Mortises closer to the center of the timber would be better if the bent is to be raised as shown.
Strongbacks clamped across the joint would have also helped.
My 2 cents...

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