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Dull Draw knife what's best to shapren?

Started by Nebraska, September 17, 2019, 07:35:17 AM

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Nebraska

I was cleaning bark off of a green ash pole.  Thinking my draw knife could be a little sharper, so I thought I'd ask here.  What is the best /proper method to sharpen a draw knife? I used a diamond knife hone mostly because it was handy, I used long upward strokes following the bevel at an angle trying to keep the edge true. I looked/tried to search  an old thread on this but failed so here i go.

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Don P

If it is trashed I start with a white wheel on the bench grinder and very light pressure, keep it cool. For honing I put one handle in the crook of my elbow, edge outboard, the other handle in my hand, sitting elbow locked to my body and use a diamond stone maintaining an even bevel. Then I have a muslin wheel on the other side of the bench grinder charged with emery that I use to buff the wire edge and microbevel/polish most edge tools. If you look down at the edge in strong light the edge should split the light, any reflections shining back at you are dull spots reflecting the light back. I've also seen a crew using an axe stone and circular strokes.

Heartwood

The Galbert Drawsharp is a good system available through Lie-Nielsen and others.

Al_Smith

I have a couple of draw knives which were in the family forever .I seldom use them and seldom sharpen them .I use a "sythe " stone .The same one my departed pappy used on a double bit "cruiser " axe that has never been left out side nor had a file used on it .BTW that's about the only axe I own and  haven't broken the handle on and it's  almost  as old as I am . Besides that a cruiser and a splitter are not the same animal ,apples and oranges . ;)

Nebraska

Thanks for the replies, I wondered about the bench grinder, I just wasn't brave enough to try that and for last night was to lazy to grab a file. Honestly had hardly touched it for 20+  years when real job happened and  the kids came, my crude shaving bench' s plywood fell apart  and it got pitched.  I gave up on making  home made long bows, that was why I had them. 
Just was making a snakey log  post for the cabin project wanted the bark off so  I can treat it it can go sit in the shed a couple years and dry out.

doc henderson

for that you can also put a fine sanding pad (320)  on an oscillating orbital sander, and tune up the edge and clean it up.  esp. if it is just for peeling bark.  this may not be the "best or proper" but works well on some of my stuff.  even planer blades, I will use it to clean and hone the back.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

barbender

It's easy to damage or burn a blade with a grinder, and I'd only go that route if it was really nicked up. Otherwise a coarse diamond followed by a fine. You've got to sharpen the main bevel first, and then put a small micro-bevel on so you don't have to sharpen the whole face every time. I would usually sharpen them differently depending on the shape of the blades and handles.
Too many irons in the fire

Brad_bb

I have 3 draw knives that get used a lot for shapening pegs and removing stubborn bark on live edge stuff. They are all antiques I bought from Jim Rogers.  All of them have very good steel.  I've hardly had to touch them up but a couple times at most.  When I do I use the sandpaper method wrapped around a pine 1x1 or 1x2.  Grits as coarse as are necessary down to about 1000 wet/dry or 1500.  I'm starting to think these things are made from Hitori Hanzo Steel the way they hold their edge.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

btulloh

I heard he was making draw knives and slicks now, but you have to go to Okinawa and live in his attic for a while to get one. 
HM126

Nebraska

I thought about sand paper on a block, this draw knife I'd guess is a 1930/40s  build has a bakelight plastic handle on one side, it looks  of modern manufacture. I also  have another old one that is hand made with pieces of whittled down wood for handles the metal was drawn thin and hammered over to hold them on.  I think it's cool, I have balked at using  it, but giving credit to the man who made it I should. If im going to sharpen up one I just as well do the other, I'd put up a picture but  it's at home. 

Al_Smith

I think the last I used a draw knife was making a handle for a cant hook that likely was dated to the turn of the last century .I roughed in a shag bark hickory sapling then finish it with a 4" portable planer .Doing  things by hand is cool and all but I prefer something with an electric motor or a gasoline engine .Some prefer to do things the hard way, I don't 8)

barbender

Al, I love doing things with hand tools until things start moving slow and time is getting wasted. Then the power tools come out😁
Too many irons in the fire

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