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Log Cabin Repair Help

Started by Zsteele, April 20, 2022, 04:27:27 PM

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Zsteele

Log cabin Wall Beam Replacement Help <br

Looking for some advice on how to raise this wall up and replace the two bottom beams that are rotten. Appreciate any help! I am 💯 new to this. I just bought some property with this cabin on it and want to repair/preserve this beautiful cabin. Has 1998 in the mortar. Unsure if it was built then or if they rebuilt an old cabin. 


 

 

 

Don P

I've used some form of "eccentrically loaded column" on several to support them after jacking from pits dug under the sills. Put thick large wood under and heavy steel plates on the jacks to lift or you'll just punch into the sills and soil.

This is one from the house I'm on now. It is frame/tf. I lagged to the frame and supported that while we supported the floor from inside and swapped out the sills and built foundation walls under them.



 

If the floor is coming out, I've cast a vertical pipe in a footing just inside the wall. It has the next size pipe slid over it with a heavy 6x6 chunk of angle welded to that. The angle slides into a chink joint, above that is the keeper logs. Jack to height and weld the pipes together. The angle supports the building. Drop the bad logs. Drill through the supported log nearish each end and drop some allthread through. Jack the replacements into place having predrilled for the allthread. Washers and nuts, cinch the new work up tight, remove the jacks and put a foundation under it. Cut the steel flush and plug the hole.

These are eccentric loads, the steel wants to bend, the wood wants to split as the fasteners cam in their holes. Don't wimp out on supports. I have little tabs welded on the far side of those heavy wall steel tubes to keep them from sliding out as things load and distort. Then crib and post solid under stuff while you work. I go through piles of 6x6's when under old buildings.

kantuckid

My mind leans toward chainsawn portions of bad logs cut away then inserting jacks to raise the building via the good logs as makes sense. Also could insert replacement portions between good ends if applicable via removing the mortar. 
Might be best to number & disassemble the structure to see the issues? then also easier to build a proper foundation anyway.
 Might find some old marbles under the floor :D and some critters...
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Stephen1

 popcorn_smiley
This looks like a good post to watch.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Jim_Rogers

I had a welding shop near me make up one of these to use to support a building while we were repairing a post:



 

 

You may have to have several made up to hold up your walls as you work on them.
Good luck with your project.

Jim Rogers
Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

Chilterns

Don & Jim,

These are excellent replies and I would appreciate seeing more pics and information on the jacking process., for example, did you have to calculate the weight of the building, what tonnage are the jacks, how do you stabilize the building (cribbing) to work on same or do you work relying on the jacks ?

More please !

Tom King

I use 20 ton jacks for jacking up any building or chimney, not because they might be needed, but because the lift per stroke is so small that it gives you plenty of time to watch everything that's going on.

There are many ways to put the support out so you have room to work.

These angled legs holding up a 1798 timber framed house have a shoulder under the sill tightened up with opposing wedges, and the tops of the legs have 2 grade 5 5/8" bolts through the studs.


 

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