iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

10" Peeled white pine post on top of deck?

Started by Doug_D, May 23, 2010, 05:34:48 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Doug_D

Trying to plan out the covered deck on the cabin and I would like to use peeled white pine logs for the post to hold up the roof.  My problem is I am not sure how to make the transition to from treated lumber to the pine log.  I plan on using 8x8 treated post set in concrete to hold the deck up.  On the small front deck (5'x16') I will be using 2x8's for joist and 2x6's for decking (all treated).  One idea I had was to cut the 8x8's even with the top of the joist and decking over that (2x6's) and then putting the pine logs directly above the 8x8's.  The roof system would tie it all together. 

Any other ideas? 

Something like this...
http://www.georgiamountainbuilders.com/decks.htm

Thanks,
Doug
Our adventure in Building a Log Cabin Rental Business!
www.cabinstartup.com

Doug_D

Something like this...


Am I crazy or is there a better way?
Our adventure in Building a Log Cabin Rental Business!
www.cabinstartup.com

jdtuttle

That will work fine. How are you connecting the log to the deck?
jim
Have a great day

jander3

Doug,

Normally, for a vertical post, you install a screw-jack under the post.  The screw-jack is a threaded rod with a plate which you install by drilling a hole in the bottom of the post.   This jack allows you to crank the post lower as your building settles (i.e. green logs settle about 3/4" per foot of wall height).   Log building suppliers sell a number of skirts that will hide the screw-jack but allow access when you need to crank it down.

I have a photo of a screw-jack for one of my loft posts at the following url:


http://peelinglogs.blogspot.com/search?updated-max=2010-04-11T16%3A06%3A00-07%3A00&max-results=7

Jim_Rogers

Quote from: Doug_D on May 23, 2010, 05:34:48 PMI plan on using 8x8 treated post set in concrete to hold the deck up. 


I would not "...set in concrete" the post. If you are going to use concrete set the post "on" the concrete not in it. If you set the post "in concrete" you are basically setting the post in a cup made out of concrete, and this cup can/could/will hold water and this will/may cause the post to rot, even pressure treated.
And I'd place a sheet/piece of water proof membrane between the post and the concrete so that the wooden post doesn't wick up moisture from the concrete or rain water on top of the concrete, and cause it to rot. Something like "ice and water shield" not just tar paper.

Setting the white pine log over the 8x8 post is a good idea, however having the decking between the post may not be a good idea.
You could place the white pine post onto the top of the 8x8 post, and then put the decking around it so that the decking doesn't get crushed by the weight of the pine log and all above it pressing down towards the foundation.

Or cut a short stub tenon on the bottom of the white pile log to reach down the thickness of the decking to rest on top of the 8x8 post below. Then the log will look like it is setting on the decking and not crush the decking. This would be easier then trying to scribe the decking to the outside shape of the log.
Also the decking could be used to secure the post so that it stays in the right spot.

The white pine log post should be secured somehow to the support system below it, to prevent it from being moved by accident, which could result in the roof falling in on someone.

These are just my ideas, that you asked for.

Whatever you do, have fun doing it!
Woodmizer 1994 LT30HDG24 with 6' Bed Extension

jander3

I agree with Jim...don't set the post in the ground.




Rooster

Doug,

As I was typing this, Jim beat me to the punch...Honest!!

((You might want to consider resting the pine post directly on top of the treated post, so that you don't trap the decking between them.  If you sqaure up the bottom of the pine post to the same diameter of the treated, just enough to slip the decking under the newly formed notch / shoulder, then if you need to repair or replace the decking in the future, the post won't be in the way by resting directly on the deck.  Also, wrapping the top of the treated post in joist material will give yo the load support for decking around the bottom of the pine post.))

Good luck,

Rooster
"We talk about creating millions of "shovel ready" jobs, for a society that doesn't really encourage anybody to pick up a shovel." 
Mike Rowe

"Old barns are a reminder of when I was young,
       and new barns are a reminder that I am not so young."
                          Rooster

Gary_C

Any place where that white pine post contacts another surface will be subject to rot if the contact point is exposed to moisture. Doesn't matter if it's endgrain or notched sides.

And white pine rots fast in those conditions.

I don't know what the solution is other than to keep the joint completely dry.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

Doug_D

From all the discussion, I think it may be a mistake to try and use white pine for this.  What about using local native eastern cedar?  I am not sure I have tall enough logs on my property, but I should be able to locate them in the area.   Or is there a better species to use around southern Illinois for this task?

I really did not think this would require so much thought or planning to be honest.  I like the detail and so does the wife.  At this point, wrapping treated 6x6's with rough sawn lumber maybe a better approach.  Sure would go together much faster  ;D
Our adventure in Building a Log Cabin Rental Business!
www.cabinstartup.com

iffy

I have the same situation coming up on my log home. I want to make the front porch roof with log rafters to match the house and use log posts to support the roof. I was wondering about passing the log post thru the decking and set it on top of one of those simpson brackets on top of a concrete pillar. The pillar would be a few inches above grade so water doesn't splash up on it. The simpson bracket would hold the post up off the concrete. I would then stain and finish the post like the rest of the house. Also, they make a clear coating that is about the consistency of elmer's glue called "log end seal". I wonder about treating the bottom end of the log with that. I put it on all the exposed log ends on my house and it seems to be pretty good stuff.

witterbound

I go with cedar over the pine.  I'd also make it so that you could easliy replace the post, if necessary.  Seems to me that you could screw it into the deck or treated post with 3-4 long timber screws, which could removed easily if you needed to replace it.

jander3

Doug,

Everyone has an idea on what you should use, what works, and what doesn't...generally, there is a basis...often the thoughts are 180 degrees out.  However, in the end just about anything works.  Just design things to keep stuff dry.  White pine works great.   I built a foundation with red oak, red pine, and big tooth aspen...mixed and matched.  The driving factor was...I made use of what was close.  





There are plenty of cabins in Minnesota built from white pine and red pine...the majority of the cabins in northern Minnesota use these species.   The key to long life...keep the water off the logs.


PS...I still wouldn't bury the post. Dig a hole, fill it with sack-crete, rock, and rebar and call it good.



Stephen1

if we go back and read the 1st post, this pine post is for a covered deck. use what you have and want, it will stay dry enough. if the building is a log building use the screws for settling. If not go with the idea from Jim, a small tenon. if you buy a box of borax from the grocery store and soak the end grain, it will cut down on the fungus, rot, and bugs getting into the bottom of the pine log. As the rest of the boy's have said, don't set the post on the decking, and don't set the other post in concrete.
My cabin has white spruce logs for the walls, with the white pine logs holding up the roof on the front porch, they are set on screw jacks, to help with my settling, and also to stop the roof from blowing off in the once in a hundred year storm. That's what i was told I need by the engineer's and the building inspectors..
Don't for get the pics!
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Thank You Sponsors!