Cooke's Blades

[peterduncan]

We bought a box of Cooke's blades because they claim they will outlive the Timberking blade. Anybody out there tried these? And what was your experience. How much tension should we run them at?

[treecyclers]

I've run the Cooks' Supersharp blades through Ash, Mesquite, and Eucalyptus, and they worked pretty well.
The gullet tends to clog on the mesquite, but so does everything else.
The blades didn't like the eucalyptus too much, but they like Juniper (cedar).
Are they worth it? Don't know.
I prefer my Timberwolf blades, and the carbide tipped ones I get locally.
Don't care for the carbide blades I got from Timberwolf. $300 for a blade that does ok, but I can get the same blade locally for $200.
Go figure.
SD

[peterduncan]

Is a $200 or $300 blade really worth the money?

[cantcutter]

Are they worth it? Don't know.
I prefer my Timberwolf blades

Do the Timberwolfs saw better and longer than the Supersharps? They should as they cost a dollar more per band.

[flip]

Timberking blade is a Munkfossager blade.  I'm not suggesting that you not buy them from TK if you are happy with the service but I get them from Menominee Saw (one of our fine sponsors) and they are about $10 cheaper.  I used woodmasters one time, I have no reasons to switch based on how my munks have performed so far.  Now finding a good sharpening service that's another story.

[BillI]

Flip

Try Jerry's Resharp in Central City Ky  Phone # 270-977-7413 He does a great job and the price is $5.75 per blade.

[rbarshaw]

I've used Jerry's resharp too, they did a good job for me.

[deeker]

I use only the cooks supersharp on my Norwood.  I sharpen and set them 4 or 5 times then send them to cooks to have them roll, set, and sharpen them.  Very happy with the blades and their services.

Kevin

[treecyclers]

Is a $200 or $300 blade really worth the money?

It is when you're cutting ironwood.
Carbide is the only blade that will cut this stuff effectively.
On a 12" Diameter ironwood log, a standard blade lasts about 12" of cut on hte first slice into the heartwood.
I can get a few hundred out of a carbide blade on the same logs.
The blades do pay for themselves in a big way, but that's because DI brings 2-15 bucks a pound, more for burl.
Now I have to find someone that can sharpen my carbide blades effectively and cost efficiently.
Any suggestions?
SD

[cantcutter]

I called menominee today and they are no cheaper than cooks on the simonds. They did quote me 95.00 and change on a 14ft 5 inch carbide tipped band though......that is the cheapest I've heard so far.

[treecyclers]

I called menominee today and they are no cheaper than cooks on the simonds. They did quote me 95.00 and change on a 14ft 5 inch carbide tipped band though......that is the cheapest I've heard so far.

What's their phone number?
I GOTTA HAVE IT!
SHAZAM! That's a deal!
Dave

[WH_Conley]

Anybody ever try carbide for just run of the mill sawing? Oak, Hickory and stuff like that with the normal amount of dirt and such.

[bandmiller2]

Treecyclers,do you sharpen your regular bands yourself??Most sharpeners will do carbide if you have the right wheel diamond best but green wheel will do it.I modified my cooks catsclaw sharpener to sharpen the wide thin Makita stellite tip  bandsaw bands.The hard tip bands just need to be kissed by the stone,and you don't need to set them.Frank C.

[treecyclers]

No, I don't sharpen my own, though I have well over 100 blades that need sharpening right now, with more on the way.
With all the hub bub about who's sharpening, who does it well, I just haven't bothered to get any sharpened.
I sent 2 carbide blades to a company in LA, but somehow they got lost in the shuffle, and I haven't seen them in over a month.
I called, and they can't find them either.
Hmmm....