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need help with laying out a wood shop

Started by T.J., July 01, 2011, 09:49:05 PM

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T.J.

i am about to start building a woodworking shop.i think it will be around 24'w X 30 or 34'l.

i want to put a room for sharpening ( band saw blades,mower blades,saw chains,etc.)

question 1 - what size room do i need? if i get enough saved up i would like to buy the Cook's sharpener & setter. would an 8' x 10' work?

question 2 - what would you put on the walls? (i figure sparks and wood is not a good idea) - i plan to tile the floor.a friend suggested tin - good idea? or something else?

any advice will be appreciated.
T.J.

isawlogs

Go as big as you can .. then go bigger  :D  The room for sharpening, 8x10 is big enough, the sparks off the sharpener I don't worry about them any, but if you want to put tin on the wall facing the sharpener go for it.
DId I mention go big or bigger on the shop yet  :D
A man does not always grow wise as he grows old , but he always grows old as he grows wise .

   Marcel

WDH

My shop has a joist floor covered in 3/4" treated plywood.  Wood is easier on the feet, back, and legs than concrete or tile.  Make the ceilings 10 feet high.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Norm

I'd use the treated 3/4" floor long before tile. First tool you drop will break any tile you put on.

Larry

Floor space is always at a premium in a shop.  You might consider putting the sharpner/setter on wheels.  When you want to use them move into the center of the room with lots of space.  Not in use back against the wall.  Plenty of light is essential.

I keep grinders/sanders off in one corner of the shop.  They generate a lot of dirty abrasive dust.

White is my favorite wall color.  Wall material can be most anything.  Wood floors are easy on the feet...wish I had them.  I have concrete with strategic placement of rubber mats.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

blaze83

my shop is 20 by 48, and i wish it where bigger, the 10' ceilings are a must if you will be using any kind of sheet goods, I used 1 X 6 and 1 X 8 aspen then went over the top with 3/4 plywood and painted it with and apraisive filled paint for traction. There is a thread on here someplace showing the consrtuction I will see if i can find it. have fun. i used sheet rock on the walls and went with 2 X 6 framing. the extra insulation seems to help keep it warm in the winter and cool in the summer. the extra room for the saw sharpening equipment is a good idea i think, I have a small room where i have my dust collector and compressor located. helps save on floor space if you can make the room an add on...... just a thought


I found the link, might be of interest to you....i see i have neglected my duties to update the pictures for quite some time  :o :D

https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,34030.0.html

good luck,

Steve
I'm always amazed that no matter how bad i screw up Jesus still loves me

Woodchuck53

TJ. I waited a long time for my big shop and yes bigger is always better. Draw out your floor plan to scale and then measure the foot print of each tool you are going to use. Include any that might be on wheels so you allow for plenty of aisle space. Try to think of all the extra's including assembly space say for base cabinets or something like that that you may want to set up before lugging them to a job site. 10' ceilings are a must for most any thing you want to rotate. Don't forget the space you may need for a vacumn system as that will eat up ceiling height. Try to plan you electrics location for all your 220 v. tools so that you can minimize runs of expensive wire. My new shop had plastic pipe in the slab for each tool so I could minimize cords on the floor. That way I pulled stranded 12 awg. instead of expensive Romex. And always add extra outlets and air drops. Never enough where you need them. At 40x40 my wood working shop is now a little cramped. I assemble projects mostly in the adjoining machine/welding side now. I have plans of adding a 56x80 addition to mine this winter for wood storage and drying. Look at all the shops you can so as to get some more ideas. Well that's just my thoughts. Enjoy the trip. Stay safe. CV
Case 1030 w/ Ford FEL, NH 3930 w/Ford FEL, Ford 801 backhoe/loader, TMC 4000# forklift, Stihl 090G-60" bar, 039AV, and 038, Corley 52" circle saw, 15" AMT planer Corley edger, F-350 1 ton, Ford 8000, 20' deck for loader and hauling, F-800 40' bucket truck, C60 Chevy 6 yd. dump truck.

T.J.

i want to thank everyone for all the help,advice,& links.it is greatly appreciated.

here was my original plan : 10' (2x4) walls like y'all suggested,log cabin siding on the outside,a 7x9 garage door up front,6" v-groove paneling (SYP or yellow poplar) inside,& quarter sawn red oak floor.i wasn't sure about wood floors & v-groove paneling in the sharpening room though.

the tools i know for sure: woodmaster 718,table saw,& joiner.i planed on using mobil bases.i know i'll add alot more later but those will give me a good start.

:D i guess i'll have to take another look and see if i can squeeze in room for a bigger shop.just remember i need room to put a kiln.i intend to get power from the shop so,i dont really know how close it needs to be.

;D oh yeah - i need to build a saw shed too.... :D

again thanks for all the advice.y'all dont know how much i appreciate it.

thanks,
T.J.

Larry

One of my best ideas was putting the outlets 52" above the floor, using 4 plugs in each box, and spacing them 4' apart.  I scattered a few 240V outlets around the shop.

I wished I'd at least put in conduit for 3-phase.  I'll probably add surface mounted conduit some time in the future as tripping over extension cords on the floor is not good.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

OneWithWood

If you can do it I would recommend 12' celings.  Much less likely to make contact swinging boards end to end.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

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