Food in contact with wood

[Brad_bb]

I have a fruit press that I'd like to make a basket for.  It originally had a steel basket, but it's rusty and I wouldn't want my juice in contact with it.  So I'm thinking of what to make the basket staves.  I know maple would be ok, because cutting boards are made from maple.  I don't have any hard maple though.  I do have White oak.  Is that safe for contact with food? Or do I need to get some maple?

[Ianab]

White Oak is used for wine barrels isn't it?

While some people have got sick from drinking wine, I dont think it was the Oak that caused it?  ;)

Ian

[metalspinner]

The wood you choose could effect the taste of your juice.  That's why oak is used for wine.  Just take a look at the "Smoker" thread in the Foof, Food, Food board. 

Other than personal allergies, I believe most woods are food safe.

[pineywoods]

White Oak is used for wine barrels isn't it?

i

Ian

Don't know about wine. Whiskey barrels are made from white oak. White oak was granpa's choice for barrels and woven baskets.

[Gary_C]

I have heard that some claim Aspen is the one wood that is safe for any alergic reactions. It is the one wood used for things like popsicle sticks and other food contact uses.

[ohsoloco]

My dad bought a commercially made cider press (made from maple) that came with some type of clear epoxy finish that I coated all the wooden parts with.  Seems if you put something like that on there it wouldn't matter what type of wood you used  ;)

[Tom]

'Course, there is the logic that people have been gnawing on raw wood, without problems, a lot longer than they've been gnawing on plastic paint.  :D

[beenthere]

My dad bought a commercially made cider press (made from maple) that came with some type of clear epoxy finish that I coated all the wooden parts with.  Seems if you put something like that on there it wouldn't matter what type of wood you used  ;)

If I were not going to use the cider press, and put it up for display, then I'd use a finish like epoxy.
But, if used around food, then I would expect the epoxy finish to eventually flake off after time and usage. Wouldn't want to risk having the epoxy flakes in my food.  :

The bare wood next to food would be best, IMO.

[SwampDonkey]

Mineral oil would be about the only thing other than raw linseed oil (not the distilled stuff) to rub on wood for food use. Maybe bees wax to.

[Brad_bb]

Ok, I guess I'll go with the white oak, since I don't have any maple.  I have mineral oil to coat it with. 
I also have the food grade clear epoxy that I will coat all the metal parts with, after I've painted them black and baked it to harden it.  I found the food grade epoxy via a bee keeper supply website.
Thanks all.  I had heard some say that white oak saw dust(inhaled) was bad for you.  I didn't know if certain woods had something, like a chemical, in them that is not good for us.

[DouginUtah]

Or you could find someone to bead-blast the steel container to get rid of the rust.

I used raw linseed oil once. >:( Then I found out it never dries hard--it's always sticky. Never again. If it isn't boiled, forget it.

[Brad_bb]

Oh, I have a glass bead cabinet, that's how I blasted and primed the rest of it.  If I blasted the basket, it's still just steel, and will rust when in contact with the fruit juice.  That's why I'm going to make a wood basket. 

[SwampDonkey]

I used raw linseed oil once. >:( Then I found out it never dries hard--it's always sticky. Never again. If it isn't boiled, forget it.

Add too much without wiping access off can do that. I mentioned not the distilled stuff because they have a petroleum additive unless otherwise stated food safe.

Pure tung oil is also food safe.

[DanG]

Pure tung oil is also food safe.

Whoa!  I'm not saying you're wrong about that SD, but I've always heard that Tung oil is poisonous.  I don't really know, though.  Maybe we should look it up, eh? ;) :P

[DanG]

OK, I did a little Google search and found several sites that say that tung oil is a food-safe finish, but all of them were woodworking sites, most of which were selling tung oil products.  Then I found this one, which I trust implicitly:

http://plants.ifas.ufl.edu/node/31

Here is a quote taken from that site:

"All parts of the tung tree are poisonous even though it has been used to treat skin conditions and constipation. The seeds are the most dangerous part of the plant. One seed can be fatal to a human. Symptoms may include severe stomach pain, vomiting, diarrhea, weakness, slowed breathing, and poor reflexes. The leaves give some people a poison-ivy-like rash."

I don't know about y'all, but I'm gonna try and keep that stuff away from my food!

[Brad_bb]

Mineral oil works great for cutting boards and such.  Though I wonder how much pressure you need in the press to squeeze the oil out of the rocks?  ha ha

[DanG]

Maybe they use Organic minerals. : :D :D

[beenthere]

Oh, I have a glass bead cabinet, that's how I blasted and primed the rest of it.  If I blasted the basket, it's still just steel, and will rust when in contact with the fruit juice.  That's why I'm going to make a wood basket. 

Going from the pic posted, are you going to modify the press plate and cut it down to fit inside the wood basket?
And maybe some stainless steel bands to hold the basket slats together?

[SwampDonkey]

Dang, butternuts and fiddle heads were going to kill us to. I've ate all kinds of both. Well preserved by now. ;D

Shop teacher said Tung and Teak oil wasn't food safe it's got additives. Tung oil itself isn't suppose to be all that bad. Your not drinking the bottle full like a Yoplait health drink. :D Lee Valley says it safe, their's has no thinners or driers in it, which would be petrol based I assume. Walnut Oil is another food safe finish to, ideal for salad bowls.

[DanG]

Well, the Institute for Food and Agricultural Science, which is the Extension Service for the University of Florida says it is poison, so I think I'll just go along with that.  Lee Valley, if I'm not mistaken, is trying to sell the stuff. :  The Romans thought it was just fine to make their water pipes out of lead too, but that didn't work out too well for them.  If you want to eat off of something that is coated with poison, go right ahead, but please don't encourage others to do it.

[SwampDonkey]

I think your confusing raw plant parts with processed oil. Better not eat raw cashews. :D There are also other foods (vegetable) that are cooked that can't be eaten raw. Jack-in-the-pulpit will set your mouth on fire if eaten raw, but cooking takes the sting out. ;)

[DanG]

I ain't confusing nothing.  The process for extracting oil from tung seeds is to squeeze them until the oil comes out.  Pure tung oil is just that.  Most of the tung oil products on the market are just mixed with other poisons, such as petroleum products.

[SwampDonkey]

What's done with the oil after extraction? Is it cooked or boiled? And no I'm not talking about adding other products to it. I guess it's not exactly raw if it's boiled or cooked though. But, it's still tung oil and not varnish. ;D Lee Valley says theirs has no additives in there food safe 100 % Tung Oil. I doubt very much they would get away selling poison for food safe applications.

From the Wood HandBook:

"Penetrating wood sealers and drying oils may also be used
for eating utensils. Some of these may be formulated for use
on utensils."

"Sealers and Drying Oils
Sealers and drying oils penetrate the wood surface, then
solidify to form a barrier to liquid water. Many commercial
sealers are similar to thinned varnish. These finishes can
include a wide range of formulations including polyurethane,
alkyds, and modified oils. Unmodified oils such as tung,
linseed, and walnut oil can also be used as sealers if they are
thinned to penetrate the wood."

"Eating Utensils

Penetrating wood sealers and drying oils may also be used
for eating utensils. Some of these may be formulated for use
on utensils. Wood sealers and oils absorb into the pores of
the wood and fill the cavities of the wood cells. This decreases
the absorption of water and makes the surface easy to
clean and more resistant to scratching compared with unfinished
wood. Penetrating wood sealers are easy to apply and
dry quickly. Worn places in the finish may be easily
refinished. Some of these finishes, particularly drying oils,
should be allowed to dry thoroughly for several weeks
before use.

Be sure that the finish you select
is recommended for use with food or is described as
food grade. For information on the safety and toxicity
of any finish, check the label, contact the
manufacturer and/or the Food and Drug Administration,
or check with your local extension home economics
expert or county agent."

[DanG]

I can't speak for Lee Valley.  Perhaps you should pose that question to them.  I did some research on tung oil when I got ahold of some seeds a few years ago.  I never saw anything about boiling it.  My understanding is that it is used raw, so I would assume that the 100% tung oil product is not processed any further.

[SwampDonkey]

It's probably no worst than some stuff we poke in our faces.  :D :D