We needed to clamp some 30 inch wide table tops this morning , and the mill only clamps 26 inches wide. We dredged up some U-bolts and a short piece of angle iron and increased the clamping width to 30 plus inches and successfully slaked a batch of table tops quickly flat and dimensioned to 2 inches thick. Cheers Rob
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/wider_clamp_1_12_30_14.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/35190/wider_clamp_2_12_30_14.jpg)
I get the clamping innovation, but what else are you doing to the board with the mill? The guide arm on my LT40 super opens to only about 24" from the stops.
Very clever!
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on December 30, 2014, 05:22:52 PM
I get the clamping innovation, but what else are you doing to the board with the mill? The guide arm on my LT40 super opens to only about 24" from the stops.
He has an LT70 WideHead. 8) 34" between the guide rollers.
I've had to do the same thing but I made a large "S" hook out of !/2" round stock. You hook one end over the clamp and the other end against the slab. just use the clamp as normal holding the hook in place when you tighten. The tension keeps it in place. Easy to take on and off.
Kc... Excellent idea ! This morning I had a deadline with the customer, rain and snow coming in and was happy to just get the order processed !I want to go ahead and have the local welding shop fab up a "hook " to hang on to the clamp much like you described.Just zero time with men on the clock and the clock ticking. We slake a lot of material after kiln drying and need the full width of the mill to "tune up ' various pieces before they go into the secondary shop.My Lucas Slabber also does an excellent job of surfacing prior to sanding . I call it "double milling " ... Cheers Rob
Nice innovation. Now you've got to bring it through your R+D department and figure out a way to make it flip up and down so that you don't have to bolt/unbolt it. (or can it go low enough to get out of the way of the blade at low cuts whilst holding the cant?)
Hi 4x4, By next week I hope to post the "clip on version" that will work to 34 inches. R& D for sure , non stop 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
QuoteI don't mean to brag, but my Timberking comes stock with 32" between the guide rollers. (That's the Timberking advantage.) :D :D
not bragging, that's a big deal right there and good on tk for doing it. one of the few drawbacks i see so far with my new to me wm super is the limited throat width. 32" would really be nice!
tule peak: you gotta make hay while the sun shines! good improvisation!
Quote from: tule peak timber on December 30, 2014, 09:05:38 PM
Hi 4x4, By next week I hope to post the "clip on version" that will work to 34 inches. R& D for sure , non stop 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
haha good deal..I would think that since you have a wide head WM they'd make the clamp wider too somehow...oh well!
8)
Quote from: 4x4American on December 30, 2014, 09:33:30 PM
I would think that since you have a wide head WM they'd make the clamp wider too somehow...oh well!
Well it is the wide head mill, not the wide bed mill ;D
Couple good solutions to the issue.
What I have done with the pieces that are to wide to clamp and to light to not, is raise the chain turner just enough to let a lug catch the piece then back the log turner chain up towards the stops till it snugs up. To me that is "one" of the advantages of the chain turners over the claw style.
Don't forget to clamp gently -- your add on clamp is attached to the end of the cylinder & the cylinder rod is a lot smaller than the vertical tube on the clamp.
I always have a problem clamping shorts.....I know someone came up with a jig, Have to search..
Quote from: backwoods sawyer on December 31, 2014, 12:14:44 PM
Quote from: 4x4American on December 30, 2014, 09:33:30 PM
I would think that since you have a wide head WM they'd make the clamp wider too somehow...oh well!
Well it is the wide head mill, not the wide bed mill ;D
Couple good solutions to the issue.
What I have done with the pieces that are to wide to clamp and to light to not, is raise the chain turner just enough to let a lug catch the piece then back the log turner chain up towards the stops till it snugs up. To me that is "one" of the advantages of the chain turners over the claw style.
I do that quite a bit myself. Do you find that your chain turned marrs up the cant? I wish my hyd. clamp went up high enough to flip some of the big cants. I can get it to flip the smaller ones
The turner on my mill uses a rounded loop welded to the chain.
It will chew up the wood if you grind on it, but in general it is gentle on the wood. The turner on Tulepeaks mill is a square chunck with a "V" Not sure how it is on the wood. The turner on the Cooks mill is even more agressive and more prone to taking chunks out.
Rob, you have shown a very easy solution to a common problem. Nice,, thanks
Quote from: Dave Shepard on December 30, 2014, 05:49:54 PM
Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on December 30, 2014, 05:22:52 PM
I get the clamping innovation, but what else are you doing to the board with the mill? The guide arm on my LT40 super opens to only about 24" from the stops.
He has an LT70 WideHead. 8) 34" between the guide rollers.
Can't imagine why they would have made a wide head without making the frame equally wide as well... ::)