Milling Burls

[Magicman]

I did not measure it, but you nailed the size very well.  It was near a sawing site and I forgot to ask the customer/landowner about it.  I'll ask about it when I see him again.

[Okrafarmer]

Nice thread. I sold a whole cherry burl that was about 24" in diameter for $100 a few months ago. I guess if I get one again I will cut it up and anchorseal it.

[Biocmp]

Just speaking from the interaction I've had with a few woodworkers, I would think sawing 4/4 "planks" would get the most bang for your buck. Are burls prone to movement? If so, maybe it'd be better to focus on getting a few rift saw planks?  Even 6" wide planks that are at least a foot long offer a lot of possibility to the furniture maker.

Doors, drawers on smaller items, etc. And from what I've seen with high end furniture makers, they will pay for quality and unique patterns in their boards.

[5quarter]

"bang" is right. saw most burls at 4/4 and try to dry them and they will blow themselves apart. Burls are best sliced thin and press dried for veneer or sealed in block form for turning. I wouldn't harvest it until you either have a buyer or know exactly how you're going to process it.

[justallan1]

Great topic.
I got some box elder burls and trees earlier this year and slabbed, stickered and weighted them and their now living in the downstairs utility room and another couple stacks out in the barn. I'm checking on them on occasion and their not warping or drying too fast (in my in-experienced opinion), my question is just how much of a must is waxing them or using anchor-seal if I'm letting them dry real real slow?
A lot of these trees went through a forest fire a couple years ago and died or are just surviving with most all of the trunks, burls and above ground roots burnt, but are simply beautiful when sawn. How long can a box elder that is standing dead go before it's junk? Thanks in advance.

Allan

[Okrafarmer]

How long can a box elder that is standing dead go before it's junk?

Not very long. At least, not around here. In your colder and drier climate, I suppose they might last longer. Around here they become worm fodder pretty quickly.

[justallan1]

Thank you, I guess I'll start cutting them.

Allan

[BCsaw]

I have a relative that has a large maple burl that he has been saving. It is 10 YEARS old! He found out that my mill is up and running again and would like me to saw it. No problem.........only I have never done this before.

With it being 10 years old do I still need to worry about it blowing apart after it is sawn?

He is a woodworker so I told him to give me a list of what he wants cut. I was going to seal the sawn surfaces anyway. After that I guess the ball is in his court!

[qbilder]

Great topic.
I got some box elder burls and trees earlier this year and slabbed, stickered and weighted them and their now living in the downstairs utility room and another couple stacks out in the barn. I'm checking on them on occasion and their not warping or drying too fast (in my in-experienced opinion), my question is just how much of a must is waxing them or using anchor-seal if I'm letting them dry real real slow?
A lot of these trees went through a forest fire a couple years ago and died or are just surviving with most all of the trunks, burls and above ground roots burnt, but are simply beautiful when sawn. How long can a box elder that is standing dead go before it's junk? Thanks in advance.

Allan

Do you have rocky mountain maples up there? The leaves look very similar to box elder, but the bark is smooth grey. Super hard wood.   

[beenthere]

He is a woodworker so I told him to give me a list of what he wants cut. I was going to seal the sawn surfaces anyway. After that I guess the ball is in his court!

Start out with the ball in his court, and the burl on your mill is yours to saw as he suggests..

Saw it the way he suggests that you saw it, and suggest to him that he might want to seal the end grain surfaces. Just keep the ball always in his court. ;)

[Okrafarmer]

Beenthere is right. Make sure he knows that all you can do is mill it. It may already be fragile or rotten inside, and there's nothing you can do about that. But you won't know until you cut into it.

[justallan1]

Qbilder, these trees have rough bark and the helicopter seed pods that come on boxelder  :D.
Plus I'm told over and they are. After haying season is over I'll get some pictures up. Possibly we can do some business.

[qbilder]

Qbilder, these trees have rough bark and the helicopter seed pods that come on boxelder  :D.
Plus I'm told over and they are. After haying season is over I'll get some pictures up. Possibly we can do some business.

You'd know right away if it were the rocky mt. maple because it would be incredibly heavy, not to mention would make any chainsaw grunt. You go to cut into what you think is a small tree but your saw tells you otherwise  :D What you have is most likely box elder. I'd certainly be interested in big burls, especially if they are solid. If you can get some pics I'd love to take a gander! And have fun with the hay. I know all to well how busy that'll keep you.

[justallan1]

There are a couple pictures of one that I cut awhile back in my pictures.

Allan

[qbilder]

If it looks like that and has some size, then you certainly have my attention! 

[justallan1]

Here's one of the burnt ones I hauled home awhile back. For whatever reason the color is staying in them great. I need to clean the barn so all of the ones I have now will get pressure washed and sawn in the near future.


 
Here's one of the ones from the new spot that I've found on the ranch. The trunk is probably 14", so I'd guess the burl would be 36". I want this one mainly for sawing some big cookies for tables, but there are quite a few completely burly trunks, logs and bunches of smaller burls.


 
What brand of wax does a guy get to seal these with? I'm sure hoping you tell me there is a spray on type available. If I'm going to make any money on these I want to be doing it right.
Also, what would be the most common thickness for slabs and what's the size I would want to saw for bowl blanks?
Thanks for your time.

Allan

[qbilder]

I use anchorseal. You can buy it by the gallon jug at Woodcraft, or by the 55-gal drum. I brush it on with a cheap paint brush. I'm not sure about bowl blanks & stuff. I can only comment on my own work, which is pool cues. I like the slabs to be 2" thick and at least 15" long, preferably larger. I cut them into 1.5"x 1.5"x12"+ squares. I could certainly get you connected with some folks who do other turning & such. Would also broaden your customer base.