OK, I realize that normal preventative maintenance and alignment is just business as usual, but I did take the time to detail some sawmill touchup.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN1997.JPG)
First on the list was the side supports. Both were about 1/8" out, so they needed squaring up. I use two sections of 1½" square aluminum tubing across the bed rails.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN1996.JPG)
Over the years I had stretched and compromised the lower bracket on the up/down chain, so it got replaced. The replacement is spring loaded to maintain tension. (note that the powerfeed has been removed)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/Photo580%7E0.jpg)
I had a bearing failure during the Goodwill Sawing trip and only replaced that bearing. Now it was time to do a power feed rebuild.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN2002.JPG)
It got new sprockets and bearings.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN2000.JPG)
It is not wise to replace worn sprockets without also replacing the chain. Mine had stretched well over an inch.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN1999.JPG)
And then do a blade guide alignment. The driven (right) blade guide was 1/16" off, so it got tweaked.
I will be at the sawing location which is ~65 miles from home, at 6:00 tomorrow morning . The sawmill should be ready
I guess your stars and mill finally aligned and it was time for a make over. :D
Good job and pics too, Lynn. smiley_thumbsup
Looks like you are now ready for a busy summer. If you ever get tired of sawing I bet you could get a job at Woodmizer. :)
Glad to see that you are a wise man. I've had disastrous results only replacing the sprockets. In just a few hours the new sprockets are worn to match the stretched chain and you are right back where you started.
About two weeks back I finished up a complete alignment on the ol' LT25. The head was square to the frame but none of the bed rails were level and the backstops were all off. Adjusting the bed rails was a hoot. All the adjusting feet were rusted fast. I ended up taking off all the rails, using a 1 1/2 trailer hitch wrench and completely unscrewing the feet. I only broke one. I cleaned them all up with a wire wheel and chased the threads with a tap and/or die. Then while I had them off, gave them a quick sanding to remove some rust and and over coat of primer and paint.
Once put back together, I promptly milled 500 bdft of EWP, using up 3 blades and ruining a fourth. I'm still not sure what happened to that one. I put the blade on. Tensioned it. Started the motor. Engaged the clutch and sparks came flying out and the tips of all the teeth were gone, without ever having touched the log.
I am still wondering why 3 blades for 500 bf of lumber. I certainly have no idea about the 4th, but there was metal involved somewhere. Something should have been shiny.
Lynn, Wondering if all replacement parts are from Woodmizer or from local bearings/drive supply? BTW, Looks like good PM program.
Looks good Lynn, but I want to offer a suggestion!
Rather than moving the sawhead back and forth to measure from the front and the rear of the BGAT, lay one of your square tubing pieces from one bunk to another then just center the sawhead somewhere in between!
That way you don't have to move the sawhead to measure both ends of the BGAT!
Just speeds things up a little!
Good luck on your sawjob tomorrow!
Quote from: Magicman on June 05, 2014, 08:41:51 PM
I am still wondering why 3 blades for 500 bf of lumber. I certainly have no idea about the 4th, but there was metal involved somewhere. Something should have been shiny.
The first I took off after cutting 2 logs, cutting the third log into a cant, and then knocked the blade off when I forgot to raise the blade and backed up the head. (teeth were still in good shape, but didn't want to dull the blade beyond the point of resharpening; which I don't know where it is)
The second was the one that sparked after putting it on. I can't tell what went wrong as there were already scratch marks inside the head from blade #1.
The third died upon contact with an eye bolt that was inside the cant.
The forth has sections of dulled teeth and the fifth is dulled all the way around. I'm trying to decide if these were over used, cut through too many knots, or cut through too many bullets? Yes, I found a series of lead bullets as I was sawing the cant. At first I though they were nails, then realized they didn't got all the way through the board. Finally I saw one that was cut in half and was in the shape of the mushroom you see on the CSI shows.
Quote from: Chuck White on June 05, 2014, 09:05:29 PMRather than moving the sawhead back and forth to measure from the front and the rear of the BGAT, lay one of your square tubing pieces from one bunk to another then just center the sawhead somewhere in between!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN1205.JPG)
Yup, like this, and it works very well. :)
Wow AnthonyW, the best part of your day was finishing. :o
I too spent the day doing repairs and maintenance on my mill. Replaced all 6 cam bearings. 2 were bad, 2 were iffy the other 2 were probably ok but I had the new ones so went ahead and replaced them all. Of course had to check and adjust the head tilt. I also installed a pressurized blade lube system as well. Changed the oil and new plugs. I had ordered new contacts for the bottom rail and contact strip but the packing strip indicated they were on back order. So that will have to wait a bit more.
Quote from: Chuck White on June 05, 2014, 09:05:29 PM
Rather than moving the sawhead back and forth to measure from the front and the rear of the BGAT, lay one of your square tubing pieces from one bunk to another then just center the sawhead somewhere in between! ....
....
after you make sure the two bunks are the same level :(.
Quote from: Magicman on June 05, 2014, 09:18:12 PM
Wow AnthonyW, the best part of your day was finishing. :o
I think the best part of the day was being able to start. Because of all the information and support available here and from WoodMizer, I was able to get the mill back in working order and actually put a log on it and turn it into lumber.
I highly recommend buying some aluminum tubing for the backstop alignment. I did backstops using a board like the manual said for years, and never felt it was really accurate enough. This spring I found an 8' piece of 1"x1" aluminum in the corner of the garage. I promptly cut it in half, and now it stays in the mill box next to the 4' level and the LTBGAT. :)
I always got a kick out of the "BGAT", it sounds almost military and then you find out it's a little strip of aluminum with a clip on it :)
I am glad you said what that means. I was thinking it was one of those I-Phone Facebook-Twitter sayings.
But I do like the suggestion of keeping a good piece of aluminum around for checking out the A-L-I-G-N-M-E-N-T
Carry on
I keep a 1x1x12' tubing for leveling all the bed rails. Most times it will be just one or two bed rail bolts that need a turn or two. Then move on to check back stops and guide angle.
The long tubing allows you to check corner to corner across the four main bed rails then the swing bed rails in all positions.
MM You seem to have the drive motor off quite offten replacing bearings. I have only had to have mine off to change sprocks each time I have changed the drive chain. Seems to be a heavier built design that has held up over the years.
As we run these mills you can see the up coming issues like your up down chain holder. Glad to see you catching issues like those before they become a bigger issue while on the road ;)
What I want to know is when are you going to paint that thing ?
Paint would ruin its reputation and no one could recognize it. If by some chance if it was stolen, no one could identify it as belonging to MM with new paint. Good job MM on show and tell. bg
MM I vote for a fresh coat of Pink paint ;D A fresh coat of paint helps protect the metal ;)
What's wrong with his paint? It's the same color as mine :)
Quote from: Gadrock on June 06, 2014, 09:48:08 AM
I am glad you said what that means. I was thinking it was one of those I-Phone Facebook-Twitter sayings.
But I do like the suggestion of keeping a good piece of aluminum around for checking out the A-L-I-G-N-M-E-N-T
Carry on
BGAT = Blade Guide Alignment Tool
Quote from: barbender on June 06, 2014, 02:22:40 PM
What's wrong with his paint? It's the same color as mine :)
X2 :D
I musta done something right. I failed to mentions that it got the drive belt tightened, autoclutch, and brake adjustment.
I drove 63 miles this morning and was setup and sawing before 6:30. I was under the umbrella but my help was in the sun and they all played out by 5:00 PM. We sawed 40 of 63 logs and I will be back to finish up in the morning. It's all ERC and I have a few pictures, but not tonight.
Aren't you glad you went with the auto-clutch?
Yes, very much so. We like each other. :)
Maybe I could have still disposed of those 63 ERC logs in 12½ hours, but certainly not as easily. I was back on the job sawing at 6:15 this morning and we were finished at 9:30. This was a hourly rate job, so I did not scale the mostly 5/4 & 8/4 lumber with six beams and timbers and one mantel mixed in. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN2005.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN2006.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/DSCN2008.JPG)
We only encountered two logs with metal. I found two nails with a blade in one and the "locator lady" found the other which was bucked off. ;D
Nice job, 8)
Must have been some pretty good cedar logs.
Yes, they were exceptionally good. We discarded only one log off of the sawmill after opening it.
That plus this was a repeat customer several times over. I stepped off of the sawmill only one time this morning, which speaks well for the help knowing what to do to keep me sawing.
If I haven't said it before, I'll say it now- you are an inspiration, Magicman ;) I hope I can take my mill from "expensive hobby" to a viable business like you have someday. I have done enough custom sawing so I'm not wearing rose colored glasses; enough to recognize that you have your ducks in a row for your operation to work like it does.
Thank you for sharing.
Well, thank you sir, but it is not about me. Hopefully my posts will inspire others.
Several times I wanted to stop and take a picture of the "workers" but when I am sawing hourly rate, I don't stop. The customer could be thinking "it just cost me a dollar for him to take that picture".
I have to align my LT40 all the time. All the adjustment is gone out of the backstops so I use a speed square for the logs where it really matters to get a square cut. Not too important when doing live edge lumber or simple 1-inch or 3/4 inch material, which I do a good bit of. Definitely important when you're making mantels, posts, and beams.
Quote from: Okrafarmer on June 08, 2014, 08:12:19 AM
I have to align my LT40 all the time. All the adjustment is gone out of the backstops so I use a speed square for the logs where it really matters to get a square cut. Not too important when doing live edge lumber or simple 1-inch or 3/4 inch material, which I do a good bit of. Definitely important when you're making mantels, posts, and beams.
You can bring back the back stops by adjusting the bed rails then the head.
I definitely understand not taking pictures on the hourly jobs, MM ;)
Hello,
Magic how often to you check the mill on hours?
This statement I am not sure about.
QuoteYou can bring back the back stops by adjusting the bed rails then the head.
There have been some up grades to the adjustment points on the back supports through time. If the back supports are not adjustable,( or out of adjustment max point) this will point out something worn or bent. It could be the back support, pivot pin or even the bolt hole.
Parts are available and even up grades if you are having trouble keeping everything in alignment. Most of the parts are very reasonable, or worth replacing versus being frustrated every time you operate the mill.
Adjusting the bed rails to make the back supports come out square will get you in trouble somewhere else.
Thanks for the post.
M
Quote from: MartyParsons on June 08, 2014, 05:21:12 PMMagic how often to you check the mill on hours?
I do not really have a maintenance "schedule", but I am constantly looking for anything that may be out of adjustment. In this instance, I did not want any surprises while I was on the road and I had the time to spend doing a general look over. Since I had only replaced one bearing recently on the power feed, that entire job needed doing. In 13 years, that was the second time to rebuild the power feed. No alignments were out enough to affect the lumber quality.
I schedule a WM service route check every three years, which has worked nicely. That work is done "hourly rate" instead of a package because the normal service is always up to date.
I agree with marty on the bed rails, only because it seems to be a band aid fix, thinking it would work, just not good for the long haul, bushings and or bent components has to be the culprit on the back stops, very fixable and worth the fight.
Quote from: drobertson on June 08, 2014, 07:06:44 PM
I agree with marty on the bed rails, only because it seems to be a band aid fix, thinking it would work, just not good for the long haul, bushings and or bent components has to be the culprit on the back stops, very fixable and worth the fight.
Quote from: MartyParsons on June 08, 2014, 05:21:12 PM
Hello,
Magic how often to you check the mill on hours?
This statement I am not sure about.
QuoteYou can bring back the back stops by adjusting the bed rails then the head.
There have been some up grades to the adjustment points on the back supports through time. If the back supports are not adjustable,( or out of adjustment max point) this will point out something worn or bent. It could be the back support, pivot pin or even the bolt hole.
Parts are available and even up grades if you are having trouble keeping everything in alignment. Most of the parts are very reasonable, or worth replacing versus being frustrated every time you operate the mill.
Adjusting the bed rails to make the back supports come out square will get you in trouble somewhere else.
Thanks for the post.
M
OK, If you all say so. :)
Quote from: drobertson on June 08, 2014, 07:06:44 PM
I agree with marty on the bed rails, only because it seems to be a band aid fix, thinking it would work, just not good for the long haul, bushings and or bent components has to be the culprit on the back stops, very fixable and worth the fight.
Yes, you're right, it's just a matter of having the money to make the fix right now. I'm not frustrated enough with it to do it yet, and in all honesty I'm trying to figure out how to get a newer sawmill so I choose my battles carefully. I'm accurate enough for my purposes right now.
One other possible "bandaid" fix that would not throw anything else out of alignment is to carefully, scientifically, weld extensions onto the existing back supports. The new pieces would weld onto the side of the old ones, and stick out at the proper angle. Not ideal, but I'm dealing with a 25-year-old machine and can't shell out a lot on it.
Thanks for the thoughts. I really want to find a way to get a new, or at least newer, Woodmizer, so I'm being selective with how I spend what little money I do have. :)
Welding shims to your back supports would be a good fix. Might even consider some flat bar with a tapped hole, using set screws to give you the angle needed to square them up.
When I bought my sawmill, the side supports were actually arched sorta like a banana. This had been caused by heavy abuse by the previous owner. I took a "rosebud" and heated and straightened the supports and they have remained straight.
That being said, before welding anything to the side supports, I would heat the bottom and bend them. This would allow the adjustment to bring them back to square.
Quote from: Magicman on June 09, 2014, 07:36:26 AM
When I bought my sawmill, the side supports were actually arched sorta like a banana. This had been caused by heavy abuse by the previous owner. I took a "rosebud" and heated and straightened the supports and they have remained straight.
That being said, before welding anything to the side supports, I would heat the bottom and bend them. This would allow the adjustment to bring them back to square.
And you can just bend the part that rest on the main beam when the stop is up. The flange will bend or work its way to the rail the head rides on. Just put the stops down and get a big hammer and bend them back to the loader arms. So when there up they just hit the top inside side of the main beam.
But I'm probably wrong again. :D :D :D
We found that the Woodmizer Factory Alignment Guide is really helpful when taking time to bring everything back into spec. So many of my Wood-Mizer friends live off the road system that I keep copies printed and bound with a clear plastic cover. It is available on-line, too. but so nice to have it in print. Email alaska@Woodmizer.com if you would like to purchase a copy. $15 plus $3.00 postage. It's a great help to making the Woodmizer cut straight and square again. Parker
Been noticing the guide arm hesitating and not responding corectly so pulled it off and pulled the bearings out. One was not turning three turned freely and the rest were rough turning, pulled the oil seals out tossed them in plasic jar filled it half way with deisle and rinsed them out a couple times blew them out and repacked them, all are turning freely so reinstalled them. pulled the guide motor apart and the brushes were worn heavy so put a new brush end cap on the motor and it is back to moving smoothly, checked alignment and it was spot on.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/PART_1402522845616.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/IMG_20140610_112231.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/PART_1402522896126.jpg)
I hate rust to :D :D I have painted them with ATF and the little chain too, and have had no problem so far. The guard is off so I can get in there good. :)
Looks/sounds like a good "tailgate" repair job Harvey. 8)
They are all tail gate repairs anymore ;)
soaked the little drive chain in bar oil while it was off, when on the mill use a paintbrush with oil as it runs in and out to lube it.
Sheared the drive pin on the guide motor a day ago, gave that area a good look, all tight and smooth for now, seems like I remember a slick fix on these lil dowel pins can't remember the post.
I sheared that pin a couple of weeks ago, too. I keep spare 1/8"x3/4" roll pins in the toolbox.
MM,
Just saw your testamonial on Woodmizer's website while reading about the LT40 Supers. Great job, as usual! You are an inspiration to youngsters like me (turning 68 on the 28th). Keep on keepin-on!
Quote from: John S on June 12, 2014, 04:36:24 PMMM, Just saw your testamonial on Woodmizer's website while reading about the LT40 Supers. Great job, as usual! You are an inspiration to youngsters like me (turning 68 on the 28th). Keep on keepin-on!
Say what?? I had no idea that that (Tom) video was on there. I had to go and look for myself. :o
Took a maintenance day today.
Had noticed the inside guide would stop spinning when I drizzled a little diesel on the saw. Needed more down pressure on that side while I was at it realigned the guides as they were a bit off, now the head needed resquared to the bed. Next up was squaring the dogs. Pulled all four dogs off to add grease to the fixed sockets and resquared. Replaced the guide arm gear box. Then washed the whole thing down real good, blew out the air filter, let it dry off a bit and greased and oiled it from front to rear and top to bottom.
On the road again in the morning 200+ miles.
Another adventure? 8)
Sounds like you gave it a real thorough going-over!
Good luck on your road trip.
Had two top rail bearings that were starting to growl so pulled them out and repacked them while servicing the rest of the mill. Found two loose wires in the hydraulic box, welded a manual dog that would not stay up as well.
Added an ATF wiper to the top rail.
Started plumbing in a Cooks diesle drip system on the drive side.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/PART_1410147631011.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/IMG_20140907_133352.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/PART_1410147651515.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/17725/IMG_20140907_184908.jpg)
Milling a redwood tree tomorrow.