Husky 365 Bar Issue

[4-Mile Forester]

I've been using this old ('97?) saw for 10 years ago averaging about 5 cords a year for my winter supply here in the foothills of Boulder, CO. I was taught to cut using the part of the chain closest to the body of the saw which has always worked well. Lately not so well. Spits biggish chucks but feels like its "bound up". I was wondering if maybe the bar was going bad after all these years and took it to the local dealer. It looks true to me and to them as well. They did not suggest replacing the bar. Would love some feedback on this from you true sawyers ;) It's mostly amateur hour around here!
Thanks, Steve

[Bill Saf]

what kind of bar are you running? and do you have the right chain on it? is the chain drive sprocket in good shape or is the chain running deep in the sprocket or rim drive and hitting the tie straps.

[old guy]

That sounds like a bar rail is wearing low on one side but only in one place, when cutting using the whole bar, part of the chain wants to cut crooked resulting in a bound up bar.
Take the bar off and put a square on it to find the high side, use a flat file of a disk sander to square it up, also file off any burrs on the edges.

    John

[SawTroll]

That sounds like a bar rail is wearing low in one side but only in one place, when cutting using the whole bar, part of the chain wants to cut crooked resulting in a bound up bar.
Take the bar off and put a square on it to find the high side, use a flat file of a disk sander to square it up, also file off any burrs on the edges.

    John

Another possibility is that the groove on the bar is so worn that the chain leans over to one side on the part of the bar that is in wood, creating basically the same result.

If this is the case, using a wider gauge chain may help some, but as the groove likely is wider at the top than further down, the chain still may lean over some.

As long as it only is about vertical cuts, less pressure on the saw also may help.

Closing the bar rails, either with a purpose made rail closer or other methods, will help temporarily - but isn't a lasting solution.

If this is a saw that see some use, the only satisfactory solution is a new bar.

[4-Mile Forester]

Thanks guys! I found a guy abut 15 miles away Im going to take it to in a little over a week (he's booked out). I will report back once I show him the saw. Best guess is the bar, I agree..
Much appreciated!

[SawTroll]

Just another possibility; If the rails either are unevenly wore, or the groove is too wide at the top, it might be possible to grind the rails down far enough to remove (most of the) problem, and still have room for the drivers in the groove.

The result depends on how bad the wear is, and how deep the groove was to begin with (it varies quite a bit).

If the bar was an unusual/hard to replace one I would check all possibilities, even deepening the slot - but a bar on a 365 hardly is in that category, as the bar mount (large Husky/D009) is one of the most common ones out there.