LT35: Is this rail supposed to rust like this?

[Mr. Buck]

Hi all,

I got my new LT35HDG25 in September.  I'm clearing some land and building a shelter for it, but in the meantime, I have a tarp over the saw head and it's stored outside.

The rail that the saw rides on is rusting like crazy. When it first started (within days) i wiped it down with ATF, but that didn't prevent further rusting.  It's starting to pit a little.  I thought this was chromed bar, but...?

Take a look and let me know - is this a defect? Note photos are high resolution about 6mb each if youre on a slow connection

Picture 1
Picture 2

Picture 3


Thanks for your input!

[Magicman]

My sawmill has been fully exposed to the weather 24-7 for over 26 years.  If you want to, wipe the rail down with ATF after use.  I always saturate the wiper felt before use.

[Mr. Buck]

I dont think this bar is going to last 2-3 years at this rate. I've wiped it with ATF a couple of times. I have only used the mill one time. I'm really surprised that the head rail is so rusted already after 60 days. Nothing else has a spot of rust on it. 

[moosehunter]

They all rust when not used. Keep using ATF while in use, something stronger when you won't be using it for awhile. Something light, wd-40,...exc.
ATF washed off very quickly with rain 
mh

[Mr. Buck]

Thank you! 

[Hilltop366]

I suppose there is a chance someone put the wrong bar on it when building it or they got a different supplier with less chromium in it, I believe they are suppose to be harder than mild or cold roll.

Could you make some covers by splitting some hose or poly pipe to keep the oil from washing off when sitting around?

[Magicman]

Since yours is a brand new sawmill I can understand your concern, but it ain't gonna rust away. 

That surface rust is kinda like blueing on a gun barrel.  The rod will gradually take on a blue/gray coloration and should cease to rust.


I just made a trip to my sawmill to winterize my blade lube jug, pump and plumbing.  While I was there I took a picture of my rail.

Notice that the top where the cam followers roll there is rust and there is very little rust on the sides.  That top rusted portion is actually flat from the cam followers making their trips back and forth.

[John S]

I cover my rails with one inch PVC.  I made a jig that sits in the right side miter slot on my table saw.  It has one inch holes fore and aft to guide the PVC over the blade as I push it through cutting a full length slit. I then rotate the PVC slightly and cut another pass. I continued (3 passes I think) until the PVC snaps on the rails.  Three different lengths work for me, No more rust!

[WV Sawmiller]

   I'm in the camp that says it needs to be used more often.

[barbender]

On mine I'm currently not concerned as much about the rust on the rails as the layer of ice on them. I think we got up to 12° today🥶

[Rhodemont]

I have 2016 LT35HD.  My rail has a copper color to it , other than top where worn from the cams, so I have always thought it to be a copper or other thin plating on it but not chrome.  As MM pictured I get rust along the top where the cams ride and a little bit on the sides  but nothing as heavy as your pics.  Before every use I coat with ATV.  If it has some rust I run by hand a maroon scotchbrite pad soaked with ATV to clean it up.  When done I give the felt pad a shot of ATV and run the head down and back before shutting down.  If it will sit or I expect rain I have a 12 x 20 ft tarp to pull up and over the trailer and throw a couple slabs on it to hold it down.  Head has a Woodmizer cover that I put on it.

[Andries]

I'm in the Barbender camp.
Ice is more of a concern than rust.
ATF and plenty of it keeps rust under control.

If ice builds up on the small platform above the axle, the battery box won't have enough clearance to make it past the axle. 
We're talking about serious, North country ice. A hard kick with your boot won't slide the ice off - it'll get you a broken toe.

We have a forecast of -40 tonight.

[Percy]

We have a forecast of -40 tonight.

Holy wrinkle-dink Batman....Cold as a bankers heart!!

[Mr. Buck]

Thanks everyone. I appreciate the replies.  I'll get a larger tarp until my shelter is finished and do a better job oiling it.  And using it more! 

[barbender]

 A tarp isn't always the answer, as condensation can form under it and make things wet when it wouldn't have been otherwise. I've never covered mine in 15 years🤷

[Hilltop366]

You cold weather guys got nothing to worry about for rust at those temps, From what I understand is ferrous metals need to be above freezing to oxidize as well as 70% or more humidity. 

[SawyerTed]

That rust is just patina until it starts pitting the rail.  

Rub the rail with an abrasive pad, emery cloth or steel wool.  Then apply ATF or a good wax.  Wax is better if the mill will sit for a while.  

[Old Greenhorn]

If you are going to tarp, here is some free advice: You must have airflow to allow the moisture and condensation get out. Run a rope or cable over the middle of the head and down to the far end of the mill, then drape the tarp over that like a pup tent and tie down either to the ground or under the mill, but allow a tunnel for that air movement. Moisture will come up from the ground and condense on that tarp, then rain down on your machine. so a slope from side to side and end to end for runoff rather than dripping is helpful.

[KenMac]

There is an aerosol product called Fluid Film that sticks to steel pretty well that might be a good solution to your rusting issue.

[barbender]

The reason that Woodmizer recommends ATF for lubricating chains, masts, and other areas on their mills is that it doesn't pick up sawdust and turn into a fiber reinforced goop. That's more than I can say for some of the things that had been sprayed on my used mill when I got it. It took a long time to find all of the areas that the previous owner had used white lithium grease and who knows what else on exposed surfaces, and clean them out so things would move correctly.

If I caught someone spraying something other that ATF or diesel on my mill, I would likely throw something at them😑

[YellowHammer]

I'm kind of on the other side of the fence, who is surprised about that?

As a rust preventative, ATF is not good, and there are much better alternatives out there, especially since the bottom rail is also rusting which causes a somewhat poor electrical connection.  There are also much better rust preventatives, many used by the marine industry, and I have cabinets full of them.

Knowing this, and since I dislike rust and corrosion on my rails and as much as I like to experiment, I have been using all kinds of different "slick" anticorrosion lubricants on my machine parts, as well as my sawmill, and have not seen an detrimental effects with sawdust loading.  Of course, don't use sticky stuff, like grease.

So I would recommend if you are going to not saw for several days or weeks at a time, and want your bare metal to stay rust free, push the ATF to the side, and use a real rust preventative or oil, and then when you begin sawing, simply spray some ATF on the rails to prevent sawdust buildup, and get to sawing.

FYI, I have used both more expensive and less expensive fluids, certainly try to recycle the fluids I have from my other machines or hobbies, such as used hydraulic oil, Corrosion X, CRC Corrosion Inhibitor, BoeShield, Ceramic Slick Wax, Diesel fuel, even my handy Cotton Picker Spindle oil.  Bottom line, you won't do any damage to your mill if you coat the bare rails and other rustable areas with a better material rust preventative, and just spray the rails and mast pads with ATF before you begin sawing.  If you see it building up a fiberous animal poop sawdust goop, then switch to something else before it gets too bad.     

[caveman]

We use ATF on the mill, but Corrosion X or Corrosion Block are the real deal when it comes to preventing rust or dealing with metal that needs to be conductive.  I've used those products for many years in a marine environment and they have not disappointed.  One time, I dropped a Black and Decker electric knife off of the dock into salt water.  That is what we fillet fish with.  I assumed it was doomed.  A spray of Corrosion Block to the motor, and it was back in service.  The blade wore out and dulled before the electric knife gave up.

I like to keep all of my equipment under cover.  It does cut down on the maintenance and minimize repairs.