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Chainsaw chain grinder help

Started by slice107, March 01, 2024, 05:23:52 PM

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beenthere

My take on the gullet shown in the pic is it is not deep enough. The tooth height gets shorter as it decreases in length after sharpening. The depth should also get deeper after sharpening so the tooth height stays nearly the same above the strap. As short as that tooth is, your depth should be close to the strap. My take on this.

Modified your pic with my thought.
Untitled.jpg

What happened to the raker? Looks to be filed off.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

slice107

If I set the wheel that low it will grind into the tie strap real bad. I don't mind if it does a little. When I hand file I use a smaller file once I get back that far on the tooth. 

Did you see the last pic I posted? It's not as good quality but the tooth seems to have a little hook to it. 

The rakers? What's wrong with it? I set all my rakers with a progressive gauge. Eather husky or West coast saws. So they always end up with the angle to them. When I set them with the grinder I do the same. I file one with the gauge and set the grinder to that tooth.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

beenthere

Show a pic of the other side and how far you are from the strap, please.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

beenthere

Pic of my hand-filed Stihl tooth

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

slice107

Quote from: beenthere on March 02, 2024, 06:30:38 PMPic of my hand-filed Stihl tooth


Ain't nothing wrong with that. Mine don't quite look the same but I can see that one will cut well.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

slice107

Quote from: beenthere on March 02, 2024, 06:25:47 PMShow a pic of the other side and how far you are from the strap, please.
Here are both sides of the last tooth I ground.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

beenthere

Not trying to be difficult, but a close up look of your tooth-grind doesn't show, to me,  a good cutting edge.





My hand filed tooth. Has sharp cutting edges. May be questionable at the point. But has a ways to go to get into the strap.

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

slice107

It's all good. I been messing around with the chainsaw sharpening group on facebook and all they say is change your angles till you get what you are looking for. Or there is no working corner. I'm just like "it's semi chisel that's why it looks different then full." 

Let me run back out and get a picture of it better. Il even give it a nice cleaning so the edge and tooth can all be seen more clearly.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

slice107

Gosh I'm getting old. I can feel roughness in the chrome on that tooth with my finger but I can't see with my eyes. 

Anyways here are some more pictures. But that edge I can take it back or do whatever I need. I'm more interested in that gullet and how to get the grinder in there?

Maybe I should use a 1/8 wheel when the chain gets that worn? Maybe using a 30-55-0 instead of 30-60-0?
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

khntr85

You can get a great chain with a grinder have a stihl USG and a Oregon 520...I like the can wheels, and yes you just want to bump a chain...I still hand file but can absolutely get a killer chain with the grinder too, it's takes some practice to get a good chain...

khntr85

Also get a new chain and like up the wheel with the new cutter best you can.....don't get fixated on numbers the factory numbers are good guides but you can do whatever angles you want....i have tried all kinds of crazy angles and can make a good cutting and durable chain for hardwoods as that's all I cut...

slice107

I think allot of my problems are coming from i have so many different types of chain here. Eather that or my wheel profile isn't perfect. the more i read the less problems people seem to have once they go to cbn wheels.

Ill keep playing around with it but i think i need to start a log book as to wich angles for each chain i have lol.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

trapper

stihl ms241cm ms261cm  echo 310 400 suzuki  log arch made by stepson several logrite tools woodmizer LT30

hedgerow

Quote from: trapper on March 03, 2024, 09:36:06 PMCBN wheel helped me
I switch to these years ago on my grinders and should have done it sooner. No issues with them. I never hand file. I take several saws and chains to the cutting party. I just change out a chain when needed. I always carry compressed air in the saw trailer to blow saws off before refueling and changing a chain out. 

slice107

Does quality matter? I seen some on Amazon for $140 cad. Brand is UF-Sharp. Can I use the 3/16 on .325 chain? If not guess if have to buy both. All mg own chain is 3/8 expect the pole saw and the 028. But id like to sharpen other people's chain once I have this figured out. 
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

ladylake


 I use a 1/8 cbn wheel on all  of my chains , works great.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

barbender

 If you go to a CBN wheel and it solves your problems, it confirms to me that you are grinding too hard. My vitrified stone did just as well as the CBN I replaced it with. Honestly I was expecting more of a difference. That's how little I am taking off at a time.
Too many irons in the fire

slice107

Quote from: barbender on March 04, 2024, 05:16:51 PMIf you go to a CBN wheel and it solves your problems, it confirms to me that you are grinding too hard. My vitrified stone did just as well as the CBN I replaced it with. Honestly I was expecting more of a difference. That's how little I am taking off at a time.
I feel like my big problem is the wheel profile. Imo it's good where it's at right now but also I feel it's not perfect enough. It just doesn't fill the gauge all the way. To get it to fill the gauge all the way seems close to impossible with my skill. If I gotta fight with it that much each time I dress the wheel i will use this grinder as a boat ancher. I don't clean my chains. I ain't going to start. I don't have the space or time for that. And I do notice how much more the wheel burns the tooth with it starts to get black.

 I do get that it will burn if I take tk big of cut. I do think that may be part of my problem but ultimately a bigger cut won't change my tooth shape. And tbh that's my main problem. I know I could just learn to use the pink wheel and not take as big bite and I could learn to shape the wheel perfectly, but tbh. I'd rather take that time learning that stuff and put it towards learning square filing. 

I think I'll buy a cbn wheel and give it a try. I'll also work on not taking such a big cut in the mean time. And I'll also play with mh angles some more. I printed off a chart and I'll follow it and I'll start righting down what works for my chains. 

Thanks everyone for helping out and helping me figure out what's going on, and thanks for the info about to big of cut.
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

beenthere

QuoteBut id like to sharpen other people's chain once I have this figured out. [/font][/size][/color]

Will be good to do that figuring on your own chains, and I wish you well doing that. Then you also can enjoy a well-sharpened chain.

I paid for a chain sharpening one time that was not good. He'll never get another chance to do it again for me, even tho his previous times were reasonable. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

slice107

Quote from: beenthere on March 04, 2024, 09:18:12 PM
QuoteBut id like to sharpen other people's chain once I have this figured out. [/font][/size][/color]

Will be good to do that figuring on your own chains, and I wish you well doing that. Then you also can enjoy a well-sharpened chain.

I paid for a chain sharpening one time that was not good. He'll never get another chance to do it again for me, even tho his previous times were reasonable. 
Ya no one here can sharpen a chain. I've tried a few people and sometimes it's even worse than when I brought it to them. I always have wood here to cut so if people bring me there saw I usually do a test cut to make sure it cuts well. I often wish that we could have chainsaw races at the fall fair but tbh I doubt I've ever enter but it would be cool to see what some of the loggers saws cut like. No one j have talked to in my area even knows about 8 or 9 pin drive sprocket. I run a 8 on my 500i pretty much all the time. Keeps the cut speed up. Not too often I come across stuff bigger then 20 inch. It's fun running square ground when it's sharpened good and your blowing chips out 10 feet behind you lol. Heck. I can't even talk like this with saw dealers around here. They don't even know semi vs full chisel chain... I've tried a few dealers and they are all the same. Finally got tired and get my stuff shipped from walkers saw shop out of bc. 

Sorry I'm in a ranting mood tonight. Bt yes I do plan to learn this grinder before sharpening other people's chain on it.. there really isn't money in sharpening chain and I really only do it for people just to help them out. 
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

barbender

 Slice, my comments about the CBN wheels weren't addressed to you specifically. Just in general, I hear a lot of people complain that chains done on a grinder don't cut good, or the wheels don't last, etc. That hasn't been my experience- my chains done on my grinder cut great, whether they were done with the pink wheel or the cbn one. And my chains cut just as well as my hand filed ones. I've never used square ground, but I can file a chain as well as anyone as I've come across in my area.  

 Add that to the fact that chains that I've seen that other people used a grinder on were not done well at all. Teeth burned, a bur rolled over that made the tooth completely blunt, all this leads me to the conclusion most aren't using the machine correctly.
 
Too many irons in the fire

slice107

Quote from: barbender on March 04, 2024, 10:04:35 PMSlice, my comments about the CBN wheels weren't addressed to you specifically. Just in general, I hear a lot of people complain that chains done on a grinder don't cut good, or the wheels don't last, etc. That hasn't been my experience- my chains done on my grinder cut great, whether they were done with the pink wheel or the cbn one. And my chains cut just as well as my hand filed ones. I've never used square ground, but I can file a chain as well as anyone as I've come across in my area. 

 Add that to the fact that chains that I've seen that other people used a grinder on were not done well at all. Teeth burned, a bur rolled over that made the tooth completely blunt, all this leads me to the conclusion most aren't using the machine correctly.
 
I understand. I always used to think with a grinder you just set your angles and go to town. That is it but it's just as much skill as hand filing imo. Maybe even more. I think allot of people think that. 
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

ladylake


 I did'nt have any problem with a stone except for having to dress it once in a while.  I've had a CBN for about 5 years and haven't  had to do anything to it yet.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

YellowHammer

I've been following this, these guys are right on, and I borrowed and added to Beethere's pic because for one reason or another, you are not getting the tooth hook to climb the backside of the wheel as he is showing with the little red triangle.  That part of the tooth is missing, for whatever reason.  It should look like this and you can see that that dressing has very little to do with the climb as long as it the wheel has a generic stubby oval, the shorter the better, you can almost put a flat grind on the wheel and then touch the corners just a tad.

So there are ways for you to "clip the tip," such as the tooth is pushing (moving) when grinding, or the wheel is too thick or you are grinding from the wrong side of the edge of the wheel, or your angle is off or....

Put a new chain on there, turn the grinder off, set your wheel to sit into and be fully engulfed by the hook. The entire top, straight edge of the cutting edge of the chain should finish and physically contact the flat, back side of the cutting wheel.  That's important. 

Anyways, I have not used your sharpener, but on my USG Stihl, there are three adjustments to match the Stihl chains precisely.  I made this video to show how I do it.  At 3:46 you can clearly see the tooth hook climbing up the back edge of the wheel like in the modified picture. 

https://youtu.be/08_n3J8FfYE

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

slice107

Whenever I have had the flat side of the wheel grind the cutting edge of the tooth I never found the chain to cut. That is also how people here grind chains. It's sharp to feel but it won't pull any wood. I dong know the reason? In mg mind it works like square ground but in practice for me the chain won't cut soft butter. 

I've read other places that the aris?? (The corner of the wheel) Should just touch the top plate edge. Similar to a round file. In mg mind to that thinking the wheel profile is very critical. I have done 2 chains that cut good with the grinder and that's how they both were set up. But I'm having a hard time replicating it even with the same settings on the grinder. 

I'll watch the video once I get some coffee. Thanks for linking it. Maybe something will click on my brain. 
Stihl 028, Husqvarna 288,285, Stihl MS500i, Ford 8n.

Huztle/Farmertech 36" CS mill

Norwood HD36

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