Made an offer on this today
Bobcat 974
My brother in law has a bucket for it , new engine (it runs great now 78hp perkins) and heavy duty log grapple.
And shear head. 3,700 lift it weighs 12,000 < br>(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200308_092414.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1583693185)
I looked at several before I bought mine.
The problem I had was getting in and out. Not easy for a big guy like me.
And to operate the machine you need to pull down the safety bar to the locked bottom position.
I could barely get it past my gut.
If I ever got one with one of those bars, I'd have to have it modified to account for the operators size.
Jim Rogers
Jim,
This one has a huge operators cab.
I can even fit in it with the bar down.
You could easily fit in it.
I'm considering upgrading from my John Deer 270. It's good for a 3,600 lb log but I'd like a tracked model instead of tires.
Two that I'm looking at are the Takeuchi TL12 and the Kubota SVL 95. Both are close in terms of what they can pick up (about 2X my current JD).
Scott,
I have friends that have the Kubota 95 tracked machines and cant say enough good things about them.
They also have a large operator station.
Bruno
That looks like a nice machine Bruno, I'd sure take it.
I will be picking it up in the morning.
My farmer friend will pick it up with his gooseneck trailer.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on March 08, 2020, 09:59:35 PM
I will be picking it up in the morning.
My farmer friend will pick it up with his gooseneck trailer.
I thought you would ride around in it and use it to pick up logs and such, not use it as a piece of exercise equipment. :D
Now even tho that machine is obsolete, its WORTH keeping it going and working around the glitches, unlike a 742. Those things are a beast. Engine and pump parts should cross over to barko 980 and bobcat 1080 machines if im not mistaken.
Beware out in the woods.. you turn one or two times in a soft spot and the next time its buried.
Im jealous.
Those things look like beasts! That's almost twice the weight of my Case 1845c, and it is a very capable machine.
I won't be taking it in the woods
If that gets stuck it won't come out very easy :D
Nice find Bruno,
let us know how it works for you,
D
Nice machine I hope it makes things easier for you , looks like you have a busy season ahead of you a machine like that will add to production , we're happy for you. :)
It's getting loaded on the gooseneck and ready for the 1.5 hr ride to the mill
Quote from: scsmith42 on March 08, 2020, 04:47:40 PM
I'm considering upgrading from my John Deer 270. It's good for a 3,600 lb log but I'd like a tracked model instead of tires.
Two that I'm looking at are the Takeuchi TL12 and the Kubota SVL 95. Both are close in terms of what they can pick up (about 2X my current JD).
I've run an SVL 95. It's a hoss. More room and more guts than a Cat 299 that I ran for the same guy. Plus the Kubota has a swing up door. I liked that better than the swing out on the Cat. The Cat had some fuel guage issues and I ran it dry on a steep slope with the grapple extended. You couldn't open the door unless the boom was completely lowered. I didn't want to pop the emergency exit, so I sat there until somebody brought some fuel. That was facing west in July in late afternoon. Got a little warm in there in the 30 minutes waiting on some fuel. The boss ran it out about a week later in a similar situation. The guage was reading 1/4 tank.
Wudman
We got to the town that the bobcat was at they posted the roads this morning.
Got it loaded quick and got on our way.
It did freeze up a little last night.
8) congrats on the buying the machine. May it serve it's master well.
Just some skidsteer FYI. A bobcat S250 wheel machine will load a pallet that flips a kubota SVL 75 track machine. Same day load and unload. If you want brute lifting the 75 is lacking. Guy went right down on his face pretty hard, then slammed back over when the pallet busted and boulders scattered. Looked like quite a ride.
Unloaded the 974 it has quick attach but it looks bigger than my other quick attach forks and bucket
I will have to see in the morning if they work.
Your forks probably arent rated for what that bear can lift.
I will also agree with what an animal those machines are backed into an amish customer with a load of larch for his mill about this time of year and as i was unloading the frost gave way and the truck sank to the axles yup all of them the steers were still up and he says i can pull you out with my skid steer kind of chuckled and called a buddy for help. He comes roarin up with his machine 12" axle extensions, tractor tires and chained up , he had picked up a pallet of fence posts for extra weight that thing just squatted and pulled me out like something ive never seen before amazing said it handles 2 ton all the time
I have an extra set of rims and tires.
My brother in law said we should make up dual wheel set up for mud season :D
2 ton is nothing for a 9 series. That machine is "rated" for 3700 which i believe is 50% of tip load, so 7400lbs tip which means someone good can probably toe walk 4 ton or so. They ride smooth on 2 wheels and dont tear the ground up either.
;D
Good score, that will go great around the mill.
Belive it or not for such a heavy machine it's light on the ground.
Makes less of a foot print than the 873 I was borrowing.
And the yard is soft.
I know it's old but if I run it right and take care of it.
I hope it will serve me well.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on March 11, 2020, 05:01:19 AM
I know it's old but if I run it right and take care of it.
I hope it will serve me well.
I have an older 1993 742 with a mitsubishi propane engine,and it has run 7 years for me. I had to do a head gasket and new radiator, but it just runs and runs. I wish it could lift more.
Using big Bob around the mill yard.
This thing is a beast.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200312_125425.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1584056853)
Must be a keeper if you already named it. Do you like the fork grapple? I am looking at grapple buckets now.
Tacks Y,
Yes I like the fork grapple around the mill yard.
It works good for what I do.
I would also like a root grapple they work great for clean up jobs.
My friend has one.
Nice score Bruno.
Bruno that is what I sort on the landing with is a skidsteer , they are fast and quite strong . I got a new S740 yesterday . I have used some of the smaller machines and its surprising on how big of a log they will pick up and move
The only issue so far is my other sae quick attach stuff won't fit the quick attach.
I will have to find someone to make a blank plate then have a sae quick attach welded to it.
I can't find anything all ready built.
Great name. "Big Bob"
Can you post a pic of the fork grapple and the name of it. I really need one at my bush yard, it is very rough terrain.
I'm getting a very strong smell of raw fuel when starting.
When cold starting
It that a glow plug issue ?
Or injectors ?
It runs great otherwise
Thanks Bruno
It burns your eyes almost
Easy stuff first. If it's going away as it warms up take a look for wet spots right after you start it. Look around the filter and the lines, check that all the joints are tight , than go from there
sounds like leaky injectors?
As in the exhaust smells of fuel? How is the intake line and air cleaner?
If the smell is coming from the exhaust after it's been sitting a while I'm going to go with leaky injector('s).
Are injector hard to replace and cost a lot ?
Hard to replace? Generally not unless they are stubborn and stuck or carboned in the hole.
Cost all depends on what is available. Popular engines are usually cheaper oddballs are usually more expensive.
If you have a good diesel pump shop nearby you can pull the injectors and have them tested.
Check your oil level. If the injectors are leaking bad enough it'll be overfull and smell like fuel. More important, the fuel will be washing the cylinder walls
What engine does that have, Bruno? Perkins?
Quick google says a BobCat 974 came new with a Perkins 4.236 in it. In the last 30+ years it's entirely possible it has been changed though.
If it's still a Perkins 4.236 then it is a common engine to some MF tractors and all sorts of small ag and construction equipment. Parts are plentiful and easily sourced.
Yes it has the Perkins
Is there a special puller I would need to change the injectors ?
Do o pull the top things off that connects to each injector?
Then pull the cap like thing to get them out ?
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/Resized_20200410_083936.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1586522362)
Pull the return lines off the tops of the injectors, remove the feed line on the side, should be 2 hold down studs to remove. If your lucky you should then be able to pop them up.
Be mindful of the copper washer on the injector tips.
If your removing them do you have a place to test them? Or just going to replace? Highly highly doubtful you will be able to visually see anything wrong.
I have 2 options replace or
See if the guy in the next town over has an injector shop can rebuild them ?
Just got in touch with the injector guy.
He can rebuild them for $75 each
Good or no ?
Thanks folks
I need to learn who to do some of this stuff.
I can't afford to hire it out right now.
Will I lose my prime ?
Need to bleed the system ?
I don't know how to do that.
Quick google turns up plenty of injectors for 50-75 bucks for a Perkins 4.236.
Is the engine oil overfull? Smell like diesel?
Yes you will lose prime and need to bleed the system. Nothing to be worried about. If the machine has a lift pump with a manual lever you pump that until you get fuel to the bleeder on the pump. Then crank the machine over with the injector pressure lines lose until you get fuel there and it should fire. A good battery is a must.
You need to be certain that you have injector problems before you start throwing $$$ at the problem. I would be looking for someone to assist with diagnostics. I realize that you are asking here, but proceed cautiously.
Agreed. You can throw a lot of money in parts at it and not fix anything. Sometimes it's something cheap and simple.
Before going further you need to pinpoint where the smell is coming from? Any excess smoke on startup? External fuel leaks anyplace? Etc.
It's smokes and smells at start-up
It cleans up and runs fine after it's warmed up a bit?
Was it being used regularly before you bought it or had it been sitting a while? I'd put new filters on it if you haven't already and run some fuel treatment through it. Sea Foam would be my choice ;) :)
Yeah I would try filters and some treatment first before throwing hard parts at it.
Stay with name brand injectors like Stanadyne if you need to go the replacement route. I had an experience with cheap ones on a 6068 JD. New ones are probably cheaper than having yours rebuilt. If you have them rebuilt be sure he uses good parts.
AFTER you change the filters and ad some seafoam or the like I would crack each of the nuts starting at the pump and let a bit of fuel leak out and re tighten. Do this with the engine at idle and make sure you do every nut on the high pressure side of the fuel system. You'll want to do a pressure wash when done.
If you still have an issue after this it is either a pressure leak down down in the pump check valve or the injector tips are "slobbering" but this is a problem that generally shows up on well worn injectors. IF the system has been sitting for a very long time O ring can get dry and brittle and leak.
Find a good Injection service/rebuild shop and get them serviced. I find that good rebuild last better than OEM new.
The machine has set for a long time .
It's doesn't do it when warmed up.
I will change the filters
Some filters are designed/intended to be knocked and let the dust fall off. I know that my sawmill and JD tractor are that way.
The stink may be something that you might want to just consider living with, especially if the fix is more expensive than the smell.
Sometimes injectors will simply be stuck or not closing all the way due to fuel contamination or just sitting. So try the filters and treatment first. You may want to add some fuel treatment to the tank on a regular basis as that machine was made for fuel that had more sulfur in it which provided lubrication to the injection pump and injectors. Modern ULSD is not as gentle on the insides.
Quote from: Southside on April 10, 2020, 06:37:37 PM
Sometimes injectors will simply be stuck or not closing all the way due to fuel contamination or just sitting. So try the filters and treatment first. You may want to add some fuel treatment to the tank on a regular basis as that machine was made for fuel that had more sulfur in it which provided lubrication to the injection pump and injectors. Modern ULSD is not as gentle on the insides.
ULSD is a very good point, I add opti-lube to the fuel in my JD every time.
D
I haven't had any issues with ULSD on any of my older diesels. From what I understand, they have to add a lubrication additive to the fuel or it would toast the pumps and injectors of diesel engines new and old alike. If your fuel has a percentage of biodiesel in it, that's the best lubricity additive you can get from the studies I've seen. MN has I believe 5-10% bio, except for #1 offroad in the winter. So I don't worry to much about additives. Just my take on that🤷🏽♂️
Bruno, I used to drive a truck that had a 5.9 Cummins that we called "the Eyeburner" because it had a horrible raw fuel smell in the exhaust. It ended up having a broken ring so it was allowing a ton of blow by. But I also have a healthy 5.9 in another truck, and that son of a gun will make a smokescreen that looks like it was from an 80's heavy metal concert when started in the cold. It clears up good when it warms up though.
Bio-diesel is the bomb for sure. Can't get it around here, even though everyone grows soybeans. There is a place on I-70 in Missouri that has B99, my Duramax has never run better than when I feed it that. My Franklin skidder has a 5.9 in it and does the same thing when first starting up but once warm it runs clean.
We're 15% bio here and it is harder on stuff because it traps for contaminates such as water then what the standard fuel did. To the nozzle on the side of our Perkins block is a tag that has all the info you'll need to call your Perkins distribution center they might amaze you what the price of filters as well as nozzles are, I can get new nozzles cheaper then I ran get reman ones for. A quick down and dirty test for testing if fuel is in the crankcase is a white paper toilet fuel will separate from the oil on the white paper towel.
Quote from: Skeans1 on April 11, 2020, 12:30:42 AM
We're 15% bio here and it is harder on stuff because it traps for contaminates such as water then what the standard fuel did. To the nozzle on the side of our Perkins block is a tag that has all the info you'll need to call your Perkins distribution center they might amaze you what the price of filters as well as nozzles are, I can get new nozzles cheaper then I ran get reman ones for. A quick down and dirty test for testing if fuel is in the crankcase is a white paper toilet fuel will separate from the oil on the white paper towel.
That is a tidbit worth remembering. Amazing what can be learned on here.
gg
Quote from: g_man on April 11, 2020, 09:58:43 AM
Quote from: Skeans1 on April 11, 2020, 12:30:42 AM
We're 15% bio here and it is harder on stuff because it traps for contaminates such as water then what the standard fuel did. To the nozzle on the side of our Perkins block is a tag that has all the info you'll need to call your Perkins distribution center they might amaze you what the price of filters as well as nozzles are, I can get new nozzles cheaper then I ran get reman ones for. A quick down and dirty test for testing if fuel is in the crankcase is a white paper toilet fuel will separate from the oil on the white paper towel.
That is a tidbit worth remembering. Amazing what can be learned on here.
gg
One thing I forgot to add is you need to have the engine sitting for a while such as over night.
Metro fuel injection in agawam mass is
a good pump shop.
I don't know - that toilet paper test might cost you more today than having a shop bench test the injectors. :D
Quote from: Bruno of NH on March 11, 2020, 05:01:19 AM
I know it's old but if I run it right and take care of it.
I hope it will serve me well.
We have it's older sister the M970. Gas. Love the machine, finding parts not so much, hate the motor. It's a beast. Save your self a lot of grief when it's wet and buy a set of tracks.
This is what we are dealing with right now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/53840/20200410_110730.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1587219758)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/53840/20200411_192336.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1587219779)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/53840/20200412_115927.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1587219694)
Them 4 little bolts all sheared off on the front drive. 1 bolt was sheared of on the rear drive. Was hauling 6" surge to ring the inside of the pond so we don't lose the sand at the shore line that we hauled in. Was on an angle and those bolts don't like to be stressed with 2 ton of rock, plus the weight of the machine on a slope apparently. I don't know how long 1 or 2 were broke, but it sure let us know when it came apart.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on April 10, 2020, 04:53:27 PM
The machine has set for a long time .
It's doesn't do it when warmed up.
I will change the filters
When you change the filters, pour straight injector cleaner into the filter vs diesel fuel. That extra burst of cleaner does wonders for cleaning the injectors.
Be careful pouring straight injector cleaner into your filters. Some cleaners are very "dry" and running it straight is about the worst thing you can do for an inj pump.
We've used howes for years. It does both. Lubes and cleans. Used it on tarctors, semis and related. I don't know of anyone that would use a non lubricating injector cleaner, but yes, good point.
I have been on the lookout for a set of tracks.
If anyone sees any around for sale please let me know
My 90xt has a 3.9 cummins, you wouldn't live long in that smoke when it first starts up either.
My son had an old ford with the 7.3 powerstroke, you couldn't be in the yard in cold weather when he started that thing. My point is old diesels do that, some worse than others, unless you see other issues I don't think I'd worry about it. Put some hours on it and see.
I am having the same type issue with a 86 DT466 burns your eyes and white smoke at start up.
At a idle bugs don't bother me. did the same things suggested here checked temp at start up the number 1 cylinder is running 35 degrees colder than the rest. The local rebuilder want 100 per injector to rebuild Ebay 40 for rebuilt I think I will put a set of rebuilts in. see if that helps.
And a bottle of bug spray. I let you know if that helps.
Scott
Quote from: Mt406 on May 11, 2020, 09:01:48 PM
I am having the same type issue with a 86 DT466 burns your eyes and white smoke at start up.
At a idle bugs don't bother me. did the same things suggested here checked temp at start up the number 1 cylinder is running 35 degrees colder than the rest. The local rebuilder want 100 per injector to rebuild Ebay 40 for rebuilt I think I will put a set of rebuilts in. see if that helps.
And a bottle of bug spray. I let you know if that helps.
Scott
466C by now has probably got a rotten headgasket just from age. Mine had 4 or 5 holes leaking and still ran okay but constantly vented the radiator cap and had low power. They also use injector cups which are prone to leak.
Big Bob starter went out today
I put 2 new batteries in it.
Clean and checked all the connections.
I'm waiting to find some one to show me how to take the starter out .
I'm going to take it to a rebuild shop and see if it can be rebuilt.
Not a good time for it to happen as I'm super busy.
Bruno
I would check on the price of a new starter because sometimes it is cheaper and lasts longer than rebuilt .We used to have a shop rebuild every starter and alternator but they told us to price them new before bringing them in.Good luck with your starter removal and installation .
Quote from: Bruno of NH on April 10, 2020, 01:47:45 PM
It's smokes and smells at start-up
I would say this is perfectly normal.
Your Perkins has a "thermostart"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeDvCVS38hk&feature=youtu.be (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeDvCVS38hk&feature=youtu.be)
This, when cold, leaks diesel from the return line, in the intake, and burns it. You might just not know the starting procedure.
You push your key down, turn it until all lights on the dash turn off, but without cranking. Into the position just next to cranking. Count to 60 in the summer, 120 in the winter, then crank.
What it does, it warms the leaked fuel, till it burns in the intake, to help warm up the cold cylinders.
By the way, never put starting fluid in a perkins, which has been preheated right before!
Quote
Big Bob starter went out today
I put 2 new batteries in it.
Clean and checked all the connections.
I'm waiting to find some one to show me how to take the starter out .
I'm going to take it to a rebuild shop and see if it can be rebuilt.
Not a good time for it to happen as I'm super busy.
Three 14mm (9/16) head screws. On mine under the injection pump. Butt facing the front of the engine. Can be a right pain to get off. Three wires That's all there is to it. Check if it's not the brushed leads which have de soldered. A set fo brushes cost around ten dolls, a new starter between 130 to 300, depending on what brand you buy. There is a cold weather beefier starter. And i seem to remember Bosch, makes a starter for the 4.236, and OEM is Lucas IIRC.
You can see the starter, and the priming pump here.
Perkins A4.236 - YouTube (https://youtu.be/o-ccrSdKqhY)
I would take the ground off the battery first to be on the safe side.
Got the starter out late this afternoon.
Not a fun job , could raise the loader arm or tilt the cab.
One nut is a tough reach .
Not fun.
And you thought all you had to do was run a sawmill? Amazing what it takes to keep everything running.
One of the downfalls to the skid steer platform. Hope you get it back together and back to sawing.
I had a neighbor come down last night and load my log deck with his tractor.
At least I was able to saw some orders today.
He said he would help me till I got Big Bob back running.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on June 12, 2020, 07:27:30 PM
I had a neighbor come down last night and load my log deck with his tractor.
At least I was able to saw some orders today.
He said he would help me till I got Big Bob back running.
Hard to find a better neighbor than that !!!
gg
He a good guy
A lineman for the local power company.
If you do buy a starter I would look at a gear reduction starter if you can get one for that machine. Likely will cost a bit more, but absolutely worth every penny, especially in a tight install. I won't buy an old style for any of my equipment after having made the switch.
I love my old 753 Bobcat but it's a little bugger to work on ;) ;D :D :)
They are not made for a guy with sausage fingers to work on. :D
My sausage fingers are swelled up good to night.
I have a little 742 with propane/gas mitsubuishi engine, I have had to pull my starter 3 times, I hade troubles with the solenoid, as I found out. Self diagnostics can make more work :) The starter was easy to get at though.
Be thankful your 742 doesnt have the ford kent. Distributors for them are NLA and this pertronix junk doesnt last very long for the big money it cost.
Dropped the starter off at the rebuilder this morning was done at 3 got it picked up and it's in.
Was $265 to have rebuilt.
I could have got a new one for $240 but would have taken a week to get.
smiley_thumbsup
Big Bob finally got an up grade.
New standard skid steer quick attach from Titian attachments. It's heavy duty.
My friend that used to own Cote and Raney lumber welded it on for me.
I will get better pictures and have some of a new heavy duty fork setup .
If you know anything about the 974 it had bobtach but before it became a standard size so attachments are very limited to none available anymore.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/Resized_20200718_172624.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595280586)
Bob should be happy now, that is a great setup and weld job.
Good for BOB, but way better for you ;D
I welded a Titan quick attach on our Ford tractor at school. It does a good job but keep it out of the weather or well lubricated. I spent quite a bit of time busting the pins loose yesterday morning. I had a 4' section of pipe on the levers and was unable to budge them without letting some penetrating oil soak in for a while. The tractor is under cover now. It is nice to be able to change implements quickly and for them be shared between machines.
Thanks for the tip Sir
You are welcome. It only took a few minutes to work it free but it was aggravating with an audience waiting for me to unload a trailer.
Big Bob's new quick attach and new 4,000lb fork frame with used fork blades from a JCB full size backhoe loader.
My helper has broken 3 sets of fork frames so far this year.
I hope this set up last.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200724_133832.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595626122)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200724_133818.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595626125)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200724_133805.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595626126)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200724_133754.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595626128)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200724_133742.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595626129)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200724_133736.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1595626131)
I learned over the years to not grease the quick attach on my Case skid loader. The pins just get loaded up with dirt, and it makes the problem worse. A little squirt of diesel, penetrating oil, or the atf I keep handy for my mill all do the trick to keep them sliding.
I carry a 3 lb hand sledge with a shortened handle in my tractor toolbox. If the pins stick, I just reach under the implement and gently tap the pins upward with the hammer and they will break free and the handles will move.
Also, depending on the tractor, visibility to the sides on the QA may be limited, so lining up the QA to the implement may be a problem. So get in the tractor seat and find a place on the QA where you can always see it, and use a can of yellow spray paint and paint a narrow stripe vertically across the QA and the implement where they mate up n the top rail. So the next time you want to hook one up, drive up to the implement, line up the stripes, and you'll be aligned perfectly.
Great idea on the paint
Thanks
Quote from: YellowHammer on July 25, 2020, 07:45:51 AMSo get in the tractor seat and find a place on the QA where you can always see it, and use a can of yellow spray paint and paint a narrow stripe vertically across the QA and the implement where they mate up n the top rail
I painted stripes on the kiln panel between the kiln doors to help align it. The panel mounts to a bracket I made to fit the skid steer attachment on the tractor. The stripes help.
The Titan mount that I welded onto the Ford will get stripes, my Kubota is easy enough to line up that it won't get stripes.
I've just been using duct tape for my alignment stripes on my quick attach stuff. I guess I could break out the paint.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on July 24, 2020, 05:33:56 PMMy helper has broken 3 sets of fork frames so far this year
Change your helper or do not let him drive the machines. If he brakes stuff in the front, the whole machine is also suffering. there are people who just never will be good operators
I have a women helper now also.
She is great with the machine and organizations of the mill yard.
But has a seasonal job as a Pastrie chef for a collage and will be going back soon.
my brother did road construction for years, and often said the female operators were often the best. they were not high on testosterone and trying to beat world records and pushing equipment beyond the breaking point. better at feathering controls ect. you get more done when the equipment is running.
She is a worker but tad bit bossy to the boss sometimes. :D
Quote from: Bruno of NH on July 26, 2020, 11:38:18 AM
She is a worker but tad bit bossy to the boss sometimes. :D
That's when the boss has to use diplomacy in his words.
Jim Rogers
You are right Jim
I pick my battles wisely
Quote from: Bruno of NH on July 26, 2020, 11:38:18 AM
She is a worker but tad bit bossy to the boss sometimes. :D
That comes natural to all women. ::)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/IMG_0245.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1458339672)
I tread lightly.
As Sheila lost her job and has been helping out as well.
Quote from: cutterboy on July 27, 2020, 07:10:26 AM
Quote from: Bruno of NH on July 26, 2020, 11:38:18 AM
She is a worker but tad bit bossy to the boss sometimes. :D
That comes natural to all women. ::)
Just like saying dumb things comes natural for men. :D
I find when my GF helps on sawing jobs, it is nicely organized. It is great when I bring her on portable jobs as she can teach the homeowner what to do. Everything just looks better at the end of the day. Saves me stopping sawing
You better get a ring on that one.
Quote from: mike_belben on July 28, 2020, 09:00:28 AM
You better get a ring on that one.
what he said X2 or 3
And don't wait too long to put the second ring next to that first one!
Quote from: Bruno of NH on April 18, 2020, 04:42:49 PM
I have been on the lookout for a set of tracks.
If anyone sees any around for sale please let me know
I have a set for 14x17.5 tires that I'd maybe do for scrap price, and if I like ya, just might load them on your truck for free. :D
Grouser brand - cast steel, Im about 15 minutes from Fryburg.
My tire size is 15 x 19.5
I don't think they will fit
I know a guy with a boatload of those tires in tennessee off military graders i think. Just saw them yesterday. Definitely 19.5, pretty sure it was 15 sidewall. R4 pattern.
Mike if you see him again ask how much
I got one with a big sidewall tear
Well the new 4,000lb fork frame didn't survive the hired man .
One week and he has the blades pulling out the top locking bar.
That's a bummer. I don't know if it's him being that hard on it or the forks. There is a huge difference between a cheaper set of forks/carrier and a good ones
Heavy duty pallet forks are usually 5,200 to 6,500 lb ratings
I had a set doing that. I had to weld some round stock to the bottom so they could not lift up as high. took a while to figure it out. still using them without trouble for 8 years.
That hired guy must be jacking around really lifting stuff on the ends of those forks. He knew you just got those welded on
YIKES! That's four sets of forks! Maybe that man should stay off the bobcat.
mine would pop off in a bind that was lifting them up, and then popped off.
Ouch Bruno how exactly did they fail? Doesn't look they are much different than mine.
He prys up on the tips and dives them right in the ground.
He pulls the top locking part of the blades right through the top bracket that locks the forks from moving side to side.
so Bruno, if you have them waist high, and tipped to a neutral position (this is how I slide them) then lift up at the base. be careful, if they are like mine, they will come off in your hand. if this is the case, not the fault of your guy. you can fix them if they are old, or send them back if they are new. needs more stock on the bottom so they do not lift over the lip on top.
If this is happening and not breaking something in the process, it is prob. too loose. mine started after I had used them a while, so had to fix mine.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on August 06, 2020, 02:08:26 PM
Mike if you see him again ask how much
I got one with a big sidewall tear
Waiting to hear back
To start off with, Why is he sticking the forks into the ground? I don't see the need to do that. I have had mine come loose on the top if i drop the forks down to far for the same reason as Doc. I welded some 3/8 rebar along the top then ground in new stops on how wide I want them set at.
I welded 1/4 inch round rod on the bottom to fill it in so it would slide, but was stopped from lifting up enough to come over the top rail.
I have meted out significant abuse to skid steer pallet forks over the years. It's not my nature to treat stuff like that, but a paving crew I worked on I had we were always prying and ripping stuff out of the ground with them. Concrete, stumps, asphalt removals. I wouldn't have done it that way if someone had not instructed me too, but after I got past being sure that prying up from underneath 5" of asphalt was going to bend them for sure, I realized how tough the dang things are! I don't know how you can bend them, without actually trying. I've tried to bend one of my forks, as it has an "upsweep" to it I didn't notice when I bought them new. Maybe I should borrow them to Bruno and let his guy work on them for a bit😁
I will take pictures tomorrow of what he does
I scoop through the dirt to get under stuff all the time. In the rock quarry ya just had too. That was with a 950ish sized wheel loader and often lifted the back rubber off the ground. Have drove it around on the front rubbers a time or two.
Did some maintenance on Big Bob today.
Dropped the bottom pan degreased and power washed everything. My logger and tree service friend helped me get the cab power lift working. We serviced the pump and put new atf in it and fixed some leaks. It now lifts and lowers the cab for service. Changed the engine oil and put on a Napa gold filter.Greased everything.
If you don't already know.
I use Wal-Mart supertech oil in everything. Their oil is blended and packaged by the same company that makes Massey, Case,New Holland and many other name brands of oil.
I have one issue with Bob and my friend doesnt know fuel systems.
He says my injection pump is leaking. Any advice would be appreciated on what I should do. As you all know I'm just learning this repair stuff.
Thanks
Your probably going to have to take it off and have a diesel shop that does injection pumps fix it.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on August 24, 2020, 05:34:02 PM
Did some maintenance on Big Bob today.
Dropped the bottom pan degreased and power washed everything. My logger and tree service friend helped me get the cab power lift working. We serviced the pump and put new atf in it and fixed some leaks. It now lifts and lowers the cab for service. Changed the engine oil and put on a Napa gold filter.Greased everything.
If you don't already know.
I use Wal-Mart supertech oil in everything. Their oil is blended and packaged by the same company that makes Massey, Case,New Holland and many other name brands of oil.
I have one issue with Bob and my friend doesnt know fuel systems.
He says my injection pump is leaking. Any advice would be appreciated on what I should do. As you all know I'm just learning this repair stuff.
Thanks
If it has the CAV DPA pump that commonly develope leaks at the throttle shaft or fuel cut-off shaft it is an easy fix. All you need is a couple O-rings and a new gasket.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/P1090559_Paint.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1598310682)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/NewGasket.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1598310724)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/P1090606.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1598310648)
If I can do it anyone can. You can get a kit and need be a little careful. but it is straight forward.
gg
Alitec (Woods) 4000# forks. I was very slowly trying to get under a rock in the cornfield in low range (1.4 mph max) and this what happened. I could hardly believe it.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/20180523_181126.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1598315251)
Straightened nicely in a small shop press. I've straightened a few in the press over the years.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/14240/20180523_182255.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1598315414)
That kind of good news and bad news when you can straighten them in a small press. :-\
There has to be a balance between toughness and hardness. I was at a place that made granite curbing right after a 30 ton Taylor forklift snapped a fork clean off. They were at least 6" thick at the bend. :o
Quote from: Bruno of NH on August 24, 2020, 05:34:02 PM
I have one issue with Bob and my friend doesnt know fuel systems.
He says my injection pump is leaking.
If he doesnt know fuel systems be cautious of his fuel system advice.
Whats it doin wrong?
Super-rich oil is probably fine, just make make sure it is diesel rated oil. Any diesel oil will have a C followed by another letter, so CI, CJ, CK.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on August 24, 2020, 05:34:02 PM
I have one issue with Bob and my friend doesnt know fuel systems.
He says my injection pump is leaking. Any advice would be appreciated on what I should do. As you all know I'm just learning this repair stuff.
Thanks
Bruno, if you rev big bob, with the hand throttle (if it has one) does it do this?
WP 20140424 145125Z - YouTube (https://youtu.be/qJ0CgLghnHY)
Sorry for the inverted image. But what is important is the sound.
Or at idle, does it sounds every now and then, that it misses a beat?
Well, mine started like that, and then was stalling more and more. I found a cheap ish, brand new in bow injection pump. So i didn't bother to do the rings and cover joint. But from few websites i've rummaged through. The three symptoms are a tell tale of failing cover joints.
Quote from: Bruno of NH on August 24, 2020, 05:34:02 PMNapa gold filter.
Napa Gold are made by Wix, good filters
The oil is desiel rated heavy duty with all the ratings.
The engine runs good.
There is some leaks / seepage from the pump.
The pictures of the pump
The big brass nut on the bottom drips and the fitting on the right on the end.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200825_083102.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1598360654)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200825_083111.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1598360652)
And what is this round thing under the rad to the right
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/36349/20200825_083722.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1598360652)
Round thing looks like a hydraulic filter canister or maybe accumulator to me. What type of plumbing is it connected to?
Round cannister is return line 10 micron strainer just before the tank.
If anything wrong with the drive (weak steering) clean/replace this.
Quote from: g_man on August 24, 2020, 07:21:58 PM
Quote from: Bruno of NH on August 24, 2020, 05:34:02 PM
Did some maintenance on Big Bob today.
Dropped the bottom pan degreased and power washed everything. My logger and tree service friend helped me get the cab power lift working. We serviced the pump and put new atf in it and fixed some leaks. It now lifts and lowers the cab for service. Changed the engine oil and put on a Napa gold filter.Greased everything.
If you don't already know.
I use Wal-Mart supertech oil in everything. Their oil is blended and packaged by the same company that makes Massey, Case,New Holland and many other name brands of oil.
I have one issue with Bob and my friend doesnt know fuel systems.
He says my injection pump is leaking. Any advice would be appreciated on what I should do. As you all know I'm just learning this repair stuff.
Thanks
If it has the CAV DPA pump that commonly develope leaks at the throttle shaft or fuel cut-off shaft it is an easy fix. All you need is a couple O-rings and a new gasket.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/P1090559_Paint.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1598310682)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/NewGasket.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1598310724)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21065/P1090606.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1598310648)
If I can do it anyone can. You can get a kit and need be a little careful. but it is straight forward.
gg
Seems like that could be your fix
When I pull the hydraulic filter out to change.
The one in the metal cylinder.
Will all the hydraulic oil come out when I do it ?
I know it's a dumb ?
But remember who it's coming from.
I want to learn this stuff.
Thanks
There is a 970 in Maine for sale.
I'm watching it if the price gets right I might be owning it .
I dont know the layout on that machine but the hydraulic cooler is probably in series with the filter and if it is above the filter it will drain out. Maybe 4 or 5 gallons? Have a few clean pails ready. I used to have a $10 home depot plastic cement pan that was perfect for those jobs
Dont beat yourself up bruno, yer learnin.
One more ?
The air filter doesn't have a inner filter .
Should it ?
When I look on line it comes up without and with .
Thats hard to say if bobcat made them single or dual. Does it look like there is space for an inner? Does the canister have any witness marks from one seated there in the past?
What type of hydraulic fluid should I use in Big Bob?
The cheap 303
Universal tractor fluid
Or other
Thanks
popcorn_smiley
Quote from: Bruno of NH on August 30, 2020, 01:16:10 PM
What type of hydraulic fluid should I use in Big Bob?
The cheap 303
Universal tractor fluid
Or other
Thanks
all depends on how much you like big bob
I like Bob
I'm growing fond of the big fella.
I'd run whatever the manual calls for. I'd imagine it's an ISO hydraulic fluid, probably a 46 weight, but I'm just guessing. Don't go with the cheapest you can find. I use the oil from our local bulk supplier, I think it's about $10 a gallon.
I've been running cheap TSC tractor fluid in my 753 for a long time...
I started running 15/40 synthetic with a defoamer additive in ALL my industrial hydraulic systems in 1978.
Had an 76, 1840 Uni-loader that blew out 2 pumps and a drive motor before warranty was up. On the last trip to the case dealer for the repair job, Case put in the 15/40 with the defoamer and the rest is history. Traded it up to an 82, 1845 but never turned a bolt on the hydraulics again in almost 5000hrs.
The 1845 is still running at just past 20,000 hrs. Had full tear down rebuild of engine, pumps, motors, rams and bushings at just shy of 17,000 as it was just plain tired and I did an engine refresh at just shy of 9000 before I sold it. Other than a few hoses and bucket bushing that thing has been a good and reliable little work horse on the farm. Ran 2 more 1845Cs up to 7-8000 ish hrs with the 15/40 mix with narry an issue.