What are you guys using to sharpen planer blades ??? I see a couple different styles at Grizzly. Both a bit pricey.
I have the Grizzly G2790 Universal Knife Grinder. I also have one that they no longer sell. It is much like the G2790 but it has a built in fluid cooling system. I sharpen planer knives and chipper knives with mine.
This is the one that I used before going to the carbide inserts. Goes a very good job.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Makita-Blade-Sharpener-98202/203231412?cm_mmc=shopping-_-googleads-_-pla-_-203231412&skwcid&kwd=&ci_sku=203231412&ci_kw=&ci_gpa=pla&ci_src=17588969#.UnJI7OIUbAE
I hand sharpen every cutting tool,except table saw blades,I just keep them clean ;D
Jim
I use the Tormek sharpening system. Works good.
Carbide insert here, but +1 for the Tormek for any sharpening need. I have a T7 and it is top notch.
I got this on Craigslist right in my hometown 8) 8) I was mainly interested in the sharpener but the package deal for both was pretty good.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10027/056.JPG)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10027/057.JPG)
I've got old Belsaw and Craftsman 12" planers. Both need their knives sharpened. I've also got a WM 718 with gangsaws. That's how it's PO ordered it. I really wanted to get a spiral head for it and someday I will but the second 18.4X26 forestry tire to become unrepairable in the last six weeks put the planer head on hold ::) :)
I've got the new to me cabinet saw and a couple old Delta Rockwell table saw/joiner sets but they are heavy and not easily moved and the cabinet saw is 220. This saw will work great in the house along with the joiner, miter saw and lunch box planer to fit the trim and it's easy to move around :)
I use the universal knife grinder from grizzly catalog, it goes up to 15 3/4 inch I think... works well for me.
I know this is a really old thread, but I need to sharpen my planer blades. Old Belsaw and one blade is badly chipped at the ends and the other two are just dull. I have the makings to fab up something. I have a variable speed motor (sewing machine) and I mounted a flat plate on it to hold one of three round diamond plates that I will have water dripping on to lube and cool. What I cannot figure out from the pictures is how the blade moves back and forth on your stones. Could someone explain or provide some pictures? I'm assuming that a little taper would not be an issue in a blade as you set the blade edge height relative to the drum. You just need a perfectly straight edge, correct?
I would just go to Home Depot, but the link says it is not available in the store, only on-line.
You slide the blade across the stone manually, with your arms and hands. A smooth even stroke.
I have never done my own, but for friends, I used a wet grinder on a mag sine base, but the two shown looks to be the cats meow, by hand will surely work for those with patience and a keen eye to detail. The stones as well as the angle are the critical components, not easy but very effective.
Quote from: WDH on October 12, 2015, 09:56:14 PM
You slide the blade across the stone manually, with your arms and hands. A smooth even stroke.
I was wondering what the track/trolley was like that keeps the angle correct.
Shopmade knife holder and a granite surface plate. If my knives are heavily knicked, I take them to the local sharpening shop ($30 to sharpen three 16" knives). Most of the time, I just shapen them on the surface plate at a slightly different angle than they were originally sharpened. It puts a small micro bevel on the cutting edge, and I have found that they last longer and dont knick as easily with the micro bevel. This is a picture of when I was using it to flatten a hand plane, but you get the idea.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/25938/20150306_105545.jpg)
The knife holder slides on a grooved track, and you can adjust the angle of the knife holder to set the bevel angle of the knife onto the stone where the cutting edge of the knife is in perfect contact with one full side of the stone. Then, you slide the knife holder and knife across the spinning stone with a smooth stroke with the same pressure on the stone with each stroke. There is a water bath to keep the stone lubricated.
What he said above. I have that same Makita sharpener with three stones, nice rig but you gotta wear an apron, can get a bit messy. On the blade holder that slides back and forth there are adjustable stops to keep the blade parallel to the stone. If you build one you may want to incorporate this feature for repeatability.
I have switched to carbide on the machines and just use the Makita for chisels and planes now.
The other Larry
Quote from: Just Me on October 14, 2015, 07:12:42 PM
What he said above. I have that same Makita sharpener with three stones, nice rig but you gotta wear an apron, can get a bit messy. On the blade holder that slides back and forth there are adjustable stops to keep the blade parallel to the stone. If you build one you may want to incorporate this feature for repeatability.
I have switched to carbide on the machines and just use the Makita for chisels and planes now.
The other Larry
I understand that, but... The important thing is how much the blade protrudes from the head, right? They must all be the same and parallel to the head. The blade may not be seated all the way into the head slot. From what I saw on YouTube videos, many just cut a slot in a board and clamp the blade in that - no adjustments. On my lunchbox planer (Delta), they gave me a little guide thingy for setting the blade height/parallel-ness to the head. I figure I'll make something similar but with a pair of rare-earth magnets to hold the blade while tightening the bolts.
You are forgetting about weight. A planer has a balanced cutterhead. If you get all careless in your sharpening you are throwing the weight off and it does not take any longer to do it correctly than not. It will still work but will lose smoothness because of being out of balance.
I have a precision scale that I weigh my planer blades with. I take material off of the back two corners of the two heaviest blades to make them the same weight as the lightest blade.
I use the Makita sharpener now also and have had good luck. Where I used to live I had a guy with a surface grinder that made a precision stair shaped jig for the mag chuck that held all 3 blades stacked at the same angle. He was able to grind all 3 at once and they all were within .00005 wide when finished with no setup required. :)
Jake
Something you may want to try.....
When I have to flatten something out, or am just reconditioning a hand plane that has rusted I take 220-320 grit 3M stick-it paper and roll it out on my jointer table. Gives me nice long strokes on a perfectly flat table, when done just peel off the paper.
Larry