8x10 shed floor

[Kombucha20]

im thinking about building an 8x10 lean to shed and hopefully sell it to make a couple extra bucks
i have most of the lumber milled but will be milling some more for it.
its gonna be a board and batten since i can make boards and battens

my question is can i use boards for the floor instead of plywood?

im trying to build it as cheap as possible but still want a good quality shed

[Jim_Rogers]

Sure can just butt the floor boards up tight and put some paper between the floor boards and joists.

Jim Rogers

[doc henderson]

of course. plywood is a relatively new and now expensive product.  might put tar paper or house wrap under it and could consider a diagonal sub floor with another layer on top.  that would stabilize the square floor.  throw some glue on it and you got your own cheap plywood like floor.  Plywood and osb have been around, but used to be 5 bucks a sheet.  not anymore.

[kantuckid]

To be saleable it must be, of course, toteable.
Most potential buyers lack a means to load/unload or tote your shed so have that in mind before a nail goes in. In my area where several people build and sell them. I see "rent to own" signs on them, so the money aspect does figure into sales.
Well selected 4/4 over joists will hold anything that goes in a small shed? 

[Don P]

You will also need some diagonals in the walls for it to make it down the road, big X's of band strapping under the B&B is an easy way. Triangles can't move, anything with more than 3 sides can rack. We think in rectangles... wrecktangles  :D, brace those squares into triangles as you work with boards. Lay that wall down and its how to build a board sheathed floor.





Thats simpson strapping there for inspected work. The nails are the weak link, the boards are way stronger than the straps, 2000 nails vs 200, but it's all degrees along the way.





Those low diagonal braces you can see in the second story and the remnant of one in the first. I have yet to encounter a really intact one, they all have failed on old houses, too much load for 2 or 4 nails or a rotting pocket in a sill. Big, let in 1x4 diagonals across the studs are homemade, probably stiffer than strap at less weight than a full diagonal sheathed wall. 

[Prizl tha Chizl]

I've thought a bit about this idea as well, trying to find a use for the "reject" timbers from my other projects, as well as always looking for ways to bring the job site home.
Not quite ready to start my own thread about it, I might just sidetrack yours with a few of my mutterings...🤓

The local "yard barn" company subcontracts with the guy that owns the tilt bed delivery truck. If something like that is the case in your neighborhood, you might give a call and see what they need for access and to load/unload the shed. Of course there's probably other ways to get it moved, but those guys can deliver a shed pretty quick, and every other way I can wrap my head around takes at least all day.

You're going to beat the competition in your materials price, but they've got you hammered on labor, they can really crank out those ticky tacky sheds in no time. To me, it makes sense to spend a little more labor yet and make something really nice, that way you end up in a different league and don't have to worry about out-hammering a bunch of Mennonite kids with T-111 on their side. What that means to my daydream shed is; traditional joinery and real timbers, decent doors and Windows, (a real money suck, though, maybe frame it with purlins at a good height, and offer to add them to match the customers desire/budget,) aesthetic details, (rounded rafter tails? Etc) and durable roofing, (heavy gauge hidden fastener steel, shakes, etc.)

[Don P]

Or, get out of the labor and bulky transport and sell em an easy DIY kit.