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Author Topic: Wide plank wide can I go?  (Read 4478 times)

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Offline Jim_Wahl

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #20 on: December 29, 2015, 12:07:19 PM »
I think you will find that the moisture content has not changed much, if at all since it was alive, even if the sap has "set".
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Offline Peder McElroy

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #21 on: December 29, 2015, 04:57:00 PM »
I have 14 inch #2 pine for the last 20 years and all is good.

Offline Greyhound

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #22 on: December 29, 2015, 07:37:41 PM »
Cool logs.  That will be a fun project.  We did our floors from some old red oak, up to 28" diameter and 8-12 ft long.  We chose random width 6", 4" and 3" wide planks to maximize the yield.  It came out great.  However, I have seen some wider softwood floors.  As above, the wider you go, the more gaps and cupping you will have to deal with.  That's your call.  From my experience, I will offer this advice. Fine a custom millwork shop and have them mill the rough lumber into T&G planks.  It's very inexpensive and they have the right machinery to do it faster and more accurately than you can do.  It is money well spent.  FWIW, I used Horstcraft Millworks in Richfield, PA.  They did a great job.

Offline kensfarm

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #23 on: December 29, 2015, 10:20:10 PM »
How far apart is the beam spacing..  I spaced barn floor beams 24inch.. 6/4 would be thick enough for 24inch beams.. plus your doing T&G.  I'm using 6-12 inch widths.. no T&G.. mounted w/ predrilled, countersunk lag bolts w/ washers.  Beams & boards are both white oak.  It was 48 spaced w/ sticks and tin on it before.. you really had to watch your step.. but good enough for square bails. 

When I first moved into my log cabin farm house.. the living room had no subfloor.. the flooring was T&G.  When you stepped on a 4inch board.. you could feel it bow down.. you didn't feel the flex on the wider boards.  So now I have a subfloor.. still haven't put the finished floor in yet..  I'm wanting to use wide boards.  I tested some adhesive on a bathroom wood floor.. hasn't budged.  I think I'll have to tear it up now to fix a broken water line(got frozen).. it only has hot water now.. but makes the throne toasty warm if you pre-flush.. kinda nice in the winter. 

Greyhound that is one beautiful floor you have. 



Offline lshobie

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #24 on: December 31, 2015, 11:18:48 AM »
That's some great info thanks guys!  I like the T and G idea and will do that.  We have enough that we can easily cut 5/4 or thinker if we need to.
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Offline OffGrid973

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #25 on: December 31, 2015, 11:35:40 AM »
Do not overlook the sap, when those 12"+ come off and you start storing them they can bleed all over and pain in the tookis to clean up. 

I believe there is a saying that Bigger Is Better, go for it !
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Offline kantuckid

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #26 on: January 01, 2016, 09:39:49 AM »
I've done several wide board floors and see no reason to saw that white pine more than a hvy 4/4 thickness. We walk on them all the time! If band milling to very close tolerance for my own use I'd do 1 1/16". I would saw the logs for quality grade, not just to see how wide each will go. It will move even if you screw it down! That's a reality of wood-somethings gotta give. I would never glue down a wide board floor made from solid wood-that goes against the logic of wood use and fact that wood moves. My subfloors are all wide white pine based on simple fact that at the time I built my home it was a wood species that had zero market in my area and still that way to a degree, thus it was cheapo choice and part of another deal I made with my sawyer back then too.
Statements above as to it's not dry-that's true. Maybe the log ends and if so that gains you nothing other than maybe a defect in the end of a board. It's an easy wood to air dry but expect resin and seal the floor accordingly. Only a kiln will kill powder post beetles or pull out the resin, not that I'd worry about it. A local mill sells white pine logs & house kits-they use borate on all of theirs.
Me being a woodworker, I'd saw the butt log for use in cabinetry of some kind, not flooring!!! The rest should yield lots of floor bds..
You said you saved it from becoming firewood-have to be pretty hard-up to burn white pine IMO given there's oak in your province.
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Offline slider

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #27 on: January 01, 2016, 11:17:22 AM »
Fourteen years ago when i restored a 100 year old farm house i used 12 in wide syp.I used 1/2 in plywood on top of the old floor then nailed the pine with cut nails because i wanted that old look.It is not a fancy high end floor but nor is the house but it came out well.The wood was as dry as i could get it at the time.I wound up with not more than 1/16 gap and no cupping.Remember pine is soft so you can expect some dents and scuffs over time.
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Offline flatrock58

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #28 on: January 02, 2016, 10:19:21 AM »
Saw this floor on Facebook site Woodworking Enthusiasts.   Might be a little hard to duplicate!  They have a lot of amazing woodworking photos.

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Offline Magicman

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #29 on: January 02, 2016, 01:41:29 PM »
 :o That is a bit over the top.  First time that I have ever seen "liquid" lumber.
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Offline Rob in NC

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Re: Wide plank wide can I go?
« Reply #30 on: January 13, 2016, 08:34:59 PM »
I installed 11" pine over radiant heat. I was told it wouldn't work, too much spliting and cupping. 18 years later it's still pretty flat, no splits or checks. BUT it moves every season a bit, with about 1/8" gaps, which I'm fine with, I wanted it to look old anyway and old farmhouse floors around here with true wide plank floors have big gaps. It depends on what look you want. 30" would be too much seasonal movement to not split in my opinion but 12-16" would be acceptable as long as you are willing to accept the joints and ocassional checks. I put mine down with cut 2 1/2" nails at every joist, 2 and 3 nails alternating joists.

Have you got any pictures of the floor? I'm thinking of the same setup for a house I plan to build in a couple years
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