Rather as a continuation of my previous "Newest Addition" post, I am at the point of siding. For the siding, I will be using 7/8" thick pine varying from 6" wide to 12" wide. I will also be using the same for the inside walls and ceilings, keeping it 'rustic' ( but, mostly just simple). ;D
This is the set up in making the shiplap, which is basically just a 7/16" X 7/16" rabbet on each edge of opposing sides of the board.
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This is my cutter bit, in a Makita 3.5 hp router. It is a Grizzly 1 5/8" rabbeting. So far, I have made about 4,000 bd ft of covering with that one bit. The paneling in the house utilizes a 1 3/8" x 7/16" cut, which actually it took easily in one pass, much to my pleasant surprise.
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This is my first trailer load for this project, ready to unload and start application (soon as I can).
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This is basically what the siding will look like. Start with wider boards on the bottom, getting narrower as they rise. This has used motor oil/diesel sprayed on.
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Those 3 big pine logs showed up yesterday while I was there. I have to get my siding/paneling/ceilings made and out of the way so I can get those milled for the fellow, who is supposed to be bring the top logs from the tree tomorrow.
Sometimes, it would be nice just to be able to afford to take a few days to work on these projects, rather than a few hours here and few there. But then, what is Life without challenge? ;D
So do you like sleep only 3 hours a night!
Michael,
On the shiplap, do the boards butt up snug on the show face, or is there a groove (reverse board and batten) between the adjoining boards?
That Grizzly bit has been a champ!
Butt up, on the shiplap, by design. But, by board individuality, generally a small gap. Too much individuality, they might be disciplined by a clamp. ;D
On the boards in the house, thre is about an inch and an eighth gap.
Being my first experience with that bit, I initially bought two, not knowing how it would hold up. It has proven it worthwhile. :)
So, the new 15 sawing?
I think the average is 5, Norm. ;)
No, the new-to-me LT15 is not sawing. Still on the trailer. Have to move the old one first before I can set up the new one. I want to sell the old one first, so I will not move it until a buyer can demo it.
Well, we know it's been well taken care of and properly handled. Ought to make someone quite happy.
She cuts reliably and true.
You know, because the new one is still on the trailer, and it's just the kinda guy I am of course, I have a shed I could store it in for ya...........
:-*
Well, I don't have a shed for it...but, could likely add one on quickly enough. :D
Update on the new addition of classroom and shop. In the application of shiplap mode. :)
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Looks great! I believe that after seeing it, I will use that approach on my house. Are you using any kind of sealer or caulk between the shiplaps?
No. Not using any pitch. ;) Fits well enough for siding. It will be getting the same on the ceilings and walls inside.
Being in a hurricane prone area, you will be susceptable to wind-driven rain. With only a 7/16" lap, you will most likely get water under the laps. If you get water under the siding and it can't dry, it will most likely start to rot. I see you have no tarpaper behind the siding. If you install insulation and it gets wet, at the very least it will start to mold. At worst, repeated wetting will promote decay...
We get wind-driven rain every year. Some, a bit more than others. Only two sides have any possibility of rain touching them, the front and end with the windows. The overhang is enough to require a sincere blowing rain to touch them.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13641/011_optimized.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13641/woodshop_inside008_optimized.jpg)
Having been able to watch the effects of blowing rain on this building a few times. I have found no wet laps or any seepage to the inside (which, as can be seen, is open wall). Applying pitch (caulking, etc) and/or paint will ensure catch pockets to hold water. The diesel/oil mix does a good job of turning the water. This building has no overhang comparable to the new one.
But then, anything is possible. :)
Beautiful buildings. So you don't see any ill-effects of wind driven rain at all? Your rabbet was only 7/16 wide, right? I love the look on the interior! I think I remember you saying these boards were kiln dried, right?
Nice job you did :)
Looking great!
I wonder how well 1 inch thick norway/jack pine would hold up but with live edge here in the MN. I have told the guys at work Im going to put live edge siding on my house. They said Why? I said, because I can!
I have a lot of free pine to get at the farm.
I'm planning on using Southern Yellow Pine for my siding... I have lot's of pine trees on my farm also!
tcsmpsi... what was the preservative you used again? Boiled linseed oil and fuel oil? What ratio? Is the linseed oil you get a the home stores the same thing as boiled linseed oil or do you have to boil it yourself? I should probably know this, but I really don't!
It looks like a fantastic job you're doing! :)
Thanks, guys. In order to take care of the regular natural harvest of 'gettin' too big for their spot', dead/dying trees, I am likely going to have to take a little time to render those after I get it dried in. I might be able to let the logs lie a while as we are getting into fall. Time will tell.
I'm using used motor oil and diesel, mixed just thin enough to work in a sprayer. Garage next to my business in town helps if I run short of motor oil. ;D Today's diesel has very little odor. In fact, last hurricane, having run out of kerosene for the lamps, I tried some of the diesel in them. Shucks, it was cleaner and less pungent than the kerosene.
I'm sorry for all the questions, but I'm really excited about the shiplap. I was planning on doing T&G, but I think the lap joints will work just as well, if not better for outdoor use.
Were the board shown in the pictures already treated with the fuel oil / used motor oil mixture?
As far as diesel versus kerosene... what has been sold in the past as kerosene was more refined than the diesel sold at the time... diesel was much dirtier. With the emission standards today, diesel is the same as kerosene... it would just confuse people to rename it!
I wait until it is up and spray it.
Quote from: grweldon on September 30, 2012, 11:10:29 AM
Were the board shown in the pictures already treated with the fuel oil / used motor oil mixture?
????
Ahhh.... :)....no, it has not yet been treated. I will wait until it is all up, then, inside and out, whatever mold/mildew residues are there, I will spray with bleach, then spray the outside with diesel/oil mixture.
tcsmpsi< Great looking sawmil shed. I checked your gallery and nice work. I downloaded one of your phot to make plans. Love the lights too.
Did you add those jacks to your sawmill or did it come with it. I just bought an EZ Boardwalk Jr (simlar style mill)and would liek tot add something like that style or screw style. Can you take a close up picture of the jack? Are they stable when cutting?
I ordered that mill special as it is. They are quite stable. Even more so on the wood floor, as I have them bolted down.
When I have used it as a portable (which still only takes about 10 minutes to do), it was still quite stable.
The building is now officially dried in, and with initial finish applied to the two outside walls.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/13641/004%7E1.JPG)
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Next, will be the electrical. I have the wire run for the breaker box. That's about all I will be able to do on the building for a while. I have to cut some trees and mill some logs for myself and others for a bit. And, it is hunting season, and slow as its been in town, certainly, I have to be here as much as possible to catch what comes through. ;D
Can you show a closeup of how you nailed it up. Did you put a nail in the top groove and then face nail?
Thanks, great looking project!
Jon
It is all nailed with 3" framing nails from a Duo Fast nail gun right slap dab through the siding faces. :D Except for the door trim, which is nailed into the door jamb with 2 1/2" 16 ga T nails from a Grizzly finish nailer.
Magnificent! Awesome looking building! I can only hope mine will look that good, just much less dramatic!
It sure is quite dramatic ;D.
A remodeler's dream...nightmare? :D A lot of challenging tieing-in/fitting/plumbing/squaring.
Just another adventure in wood.
Fortunately, it is put together intentionally cognizant of giving the inside the most ease of fitting. ;D I only have enough material milled for the inside ceilings, and some of the trees I'll be cutting will go to the rest of the inside.
Of course, that door on the bottom was added 'just in case' I add on a bit more, some time or another. ;)
Very impressive shop you have built.
I shiplapped boards for a 14ft by 24ft shed. Instead of using the router I used a small Dewalt table saw and a dado head set. I think I used 3/4 inch for the shiplap. I built a two foot wide by 22 feet long table for infeed and out feed and mounted the saw in the middle just a table height. I made a fence like you used on your setup and started lapping boards.
I was thinking of doing something very similar, but I won't be using pieces that long, probably 12' at most. That will put my in and outfeed tables at just over 12'. I have a couple of dado heads, one is a stacked type, one is a wobble type. The stacked head leaves grooves in the lap, while the wobble is smooth, but not prefectly square. When I get to that point, I'll have to test and see which works the best...
Routstep, If you have pics of the shed, it would be great to see them...
The primary reason I used the router, rather than a dado, was that I had pretty random widths of boards and some had the occassional dallywhoops from the mill (sawing a bit too fast/too dull/good ol' resinous SYP) that the router would better accomodate. Once I had it set, I never had to reset it. That big ol' bit from Grizzly and that Makita router never slowed. When I first started making shiplap with that method, I really didn't have a lot of 'hope' it would cut so willingly the full cut in a pass. Especially as some I made for the inside of another structure had 1 1/4" wide cuts.
I do have some pictures in an album. The old camera my brother had broke, so I haven't posted any pictures since on the forum. It's been a few years. I'll see if I can use a new electronic camera, take a picture of a picture and figure out how to post. It will be a while, I'll be out of town a few days working.
I used a stack dado also and there were some ripples in the cut, but they didn't interfer with fitting the shiplaps together. A router would make a smoother cut, but I could really zip along with the table saw. Seems like everything is a tradeoff.