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Mighty mite 1986?

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Howdy, I picked up a used mighty mite bandsaw mill. It didnít go forward when I bought it. I took the valves apart and cleaned them as best I could. Finally got it to move forward most of the time. I was reading someone on here moved their forward control valve off of the manifold and after the pump? Can someone explain that? Do I just plug the manifold and delete the $2800 flow control and replace with the less expensive inline valve? 

This mill has seen some use and Iím slowly working my way through it and breaking blades while learning (not fun) but I was happy to have a mill for less than 6k...but after the tinkering and the more to come I wonder if I should have just waited for something else. 

And just to be clear is go hydraulic carriage forward/reverse and up and down. Just need to get it done tuned. 

The one I owned had the variable speed control valve before the pump.  The issue with that is that the hydraulic press is varied but the motor will hate that method.  The valve needs to be after the motor.  That is pump -> motor -> speed valve -> return to reservoir.   Mighty Mite builds but do not add improvements so the same mistake this there forever.  

The good, very stoutly built,  very good hydraulics,  handles large cuts or logs and good power.

So if I pull the speed control off..should I plug that port? And then put an inline speed control after the pump. 

Any ideas what type of valve? Size or flow amount?

I have a 1985 model (Mighty Mite is located in Canby, Oregon) and some one hasinstalled a ball valve on the forward carriage feed with a needle valve on the other line, the ball valve is very touchy to regulate but have finally got used to it. I feel the overall construction to be heavy and well built. I broke 1 or 2 blades and bent several others due to operator error learning curve, I ended up lining the inside of the metal blade guard system with rubber belting which has save a lot of blades from serious damage.  I all so added 6 trailer tongue jacks to the frame and raised the log bunks up to the same level as my bevel siding jig that is permanently installed. my saw is a good machine and the only issues were the idler band wheel bearings  I had to replace and found the shaft was previously chewed up, so I welded it up an turned it back down and now new bearings installed and working fine.   The The double drive belts from  motor are a challenge to figure out the easiest install method so I installed a second set at the same time and tied them off to the side.  

So your ball valve screws into the manifold? And then a speed control? 

Iíd assume I should plug my speed control port. And run my speed control to the other side of the manifold (return line from the pump) 

I spoke to mighty mite a few times and really like John. Heís always very helpful. 

I was curious if you could send pictures of the ball valve and rubber bumpers for the blade. 

I recently creased a blade a little. Can you still run them after? It also broke one tooth off but other than that the blade is brand new. 


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