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Anchorseal

Started by Walnut Beast, February 13, 2022, 09:33:01 PM

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Walnut Beast

Is putting on Anchorseal on a cut down dead standing tree just as important as a live one ? 

beenthere

Likely that is a "yes".
The dead tree will still lose a lot of moisture out the end grain and will start the checking. That leads to loss in lumber recovery.
Decision is then left to either anchorseal or not depending on acceptance (importance) of less checking or more checking.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

doc henderson

or leave it on the stump.  either way it makes the moisture exit via the side of the log.  and less out the end.  if it leaves faster by the ends, the shrinking will split the fibers as they shrink relative to fibers further in.  If it was really dry, like same moisture throughout you would be fine.  could put a meter on the center of the cut surface and see what the moisture is there.  it is the differential MC of core to the outside that causes the splits.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

mike_belben

I have some staves on a half full trailer waiting to finish a load to make the ride that are starting to dry check from western sunset and wind.  Think i will try watering ends with my pump sprayer this morning. 
Praise The Lord

doc henderson

I cut down and slabbed a standing dead elm, and it felt dry to touch.  after making 2-inch slabs, moisture meter reading was still over 32%
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

beenthere

Quoteit is the differential MC of core to the outside that causes the splits.

that; or maybe more the tangential shrinkage along the annual rings, being that the annual rings are longer the further away from the pith center and the exposed end grain cells drying below fiber saturation point (around 30%) .   Annual rings are shorter near the pith than further away. 

https://www.carolinatimberworks.com/why-do-timbers-split-and-crack/
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

doc henderson

that is a great article.  I think the end seal is to keep the ends from drying much faster than further in and trying to get the water to leave in a more uniform rate along the length of the log including the ends.  If the dead standing tree/log were uniformly dry to say 7% when cut, then no you would not need end sealer.  tangential cracks will occur in logs, but end checks can be reduced by end sealer if the log is still above the EMC for the area.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Walnut Beast

Yes indeed great article 👍

Walnut Beast

Titebond. Has anyone ever used it ? Seen a video of a guy that turns bowls and has used Anchorseal and other products including Elmers glue and Titebond out performed them all as a end sealer

doc henderson

I have use 3 types of Titebond as an adhesive, but not as an end sealer.  also, the dark.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Walnut Beast

I'm going to get a gallon of the premium and try it and give a little feedback. Only downside I see is brushing it on vs spraying it if you have a bunch to do all the time

rusticretreater

I use anchorseal often.  Most logs I have, I just let them go.  If I have a really good log I will use it to seal it up.  I apply one coat, go to the other end and do the same.  Come back to first side which will usually have taken a set by then and apply another coat, then do the other end again.  Its a wax emulsion so it hangs around a bit, but weathering will wear it down, so you have to check on it and reapply as needed.

Folks use the common garden sprayer mostly.  UC Coatings(makers of anchorseal) say to use a nozzle opening at .021" or .55 mm or larger.  So you would have to modify it a bit I think.  Never done it myself.  UC Coatings also sell backpack sprayers for $170.  

Lots of AnchorSeal threads in the forum.  Just do a search.
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doc henderson

i have used a brush, and a 9 inch roller.  have to pay attention and roll uphill or you will "blop" more on the ground than the log.  I bought an less expensive (HF) pressure painter, and love it to spray.  the more complex the system gets, the more you waste.  I tried a garden pump sprayer and never got it right.  even ordered a flat larger orifice.  



 

 

 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

YellowHammer

I use the UC sprayer, its the best I've used and it's portable, never needs cleanup, and will spray a thousand bdft in a couple minutes.

I don't use Anchorseal anymore, I use one of several other, less expensive and just as effective industrial versions, repackaged for retail sale.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Walnut Beast

I need to do the backpack sprayer. YH what was the other alternatives you had mentioned before if you don't mind telling again. Thanks

mike_belben

I think its pretty well proven that latex paints dont breath.  Ive seen plenty of shed and deck lumber that was just good looking latex over sawdust by then.  Why wouldnt it work as an endsealer?  Everyone is always tossing the tail end of old latex cans. 
Praise The Lord

YellowHammer

I typically use the Kilngspors or similar.  They don't charge much for shipping, and have never lost my order, unlike other places.  

However, if you check the MSDS, the green sealer is made and rebottled by several different companies, so I will do a google search, and get it for whom ever sells and can deliver it for less.  

I personally don't like paint, simply because it is messy.  I apply sealer with a backpack sprayer, and it never needs to be cleaned, sprays wide and fast, and when I spray packs on my asphalt or concrete, the green sealer overspray will not be visible once it dries.  No mess on the wood or me.    
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

mike_belben

i just figured the cheapest 6" throw away roller and paint can tailings. i certainly wouldnt go through the trouble of solvent cleanup on a sprayer. 
Praise The Lord

doc henderson

I clean the sprayer about every 2 years.  the wax emulsion does not dry hard, more like wax.  It has stayed on the top of that 5-gallon bucket, even over winter inside.  the stuff in the gun and hose remains liquid.  I have a neighbor who paints, and I get his left over.  often full new gallons that were left over after a job.  better than nothing, but prob not as good as as a dedicated end sealer.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Walnut Beast

Quick and easy putting the Titebond on. Poured a little in my throw away rubber glove and smeared it on and worked perfectly and fast. Will see how it works. 

 

Walnut Beast

Has anybody used this stuff?

 

Old Greenhorn

Quote from: Walnut Beast on February 19, 2022, 07:12:39 AM
Has anybody used this stuff?


Walnut, do a forum search, this has been discussed many times. in the last few years. There are so many different threads refencing it that I could pick one to link here. It's pricey, but you will find guys here that have used it.
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I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

WDH

Mike,

Latex paint performs poorly.  Better than nothing but much less effective than the wax based commercial end sealers. I have also used the kool seal aluminum roofing coating but it is much too difficult to work with.  If you get any of it on anything, including yourself, it is on forever.  
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Walnut Beast

Thanks Old Greenhorn I will do that 👍

beenthere

Quote from: Walnut Beast on February 19, 2022, 07:12:39 AM
Has anybody used this stuff?


Meaning "used it for end sealer" ?  Usually used to stabilize wood and not discussed as an end-grain sealer. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

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