Forum > Turbosawmill

Circular sawyers!

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bandmiller2:
Good morning Jake, I assume your referring to circular saw on a swinger, not sure how they compare to say a 48" headsaw. Its not common practice where I am to put water on a circular saw. I have cut W. pine, oak, maple, ash, and cherry never had any pitch or buildup on the saw. The only difference I can tell is the power required for oak of all species. A diesel that will breeze through pine will be black smoking and on its knees if you don't slow the feed in a large oak. Bits with proper hook and vicious sharp corners is the answer. Perhaps the finer points escape me but other than the power requirements I've seen little difference between the species. Frank C.

NZJake:
Hi Frank,

Yea I guess I need to close the definition a little. I don't think the single saw fixed blade would react the same.

The swingmill usually has its blade tweaked to its near limits on kerf size and blade thickness in order to get the most performance out of it. So the differences can be a little more evident on them.

The bigger the tips, blade thickness and hp used the more forgiving things get. So unfortunately I think I have to redefine this thread to swingblade mill owners. Fair point.

dgdrls:
Hi Jake,

In my experience;
Ash can be tough and if you put a little water to it the dust/shavings will dry hard, 
Black Locust cuts well just get the bark off it first
Mixed experience with Walnut I have had a couple drier logs that sawed hard in an 8" cut others no problem.

Best
D

longtime lurker:
okayyyyyyyy...

Australian Red Cedar: soft and tends to be furry which can cause overheating problems in deeper cuts. Adding miscible spray oil to water tank improves this slightly due to lubricating effect. Increase side clearance angles on tooth. If volumes are sufficient for cost recovery add more gullets and use ATB tooth pattern.

Northern Silky Oak (Carwellia): cuts really well backsawn but requires slower cutting/ really sharp teeth on the quarter to prevent tear out.

Jitta: spring, spring , spring. saws will bind very quickly and unexpectedly even with wedging in place.

Queensland Black Walnut, Yellow Walnut (also Teak, Turpentine, Tea Tree, Paperbark and other species with high silica content): use stellite tips rather then TCT. Use higher feed speed (shallower cuts) rather then deep (slow) cuts as much as possible - the coarser the sawdust the longer between sharpenings.

Milky Pine (White Cheesewood) add diesel to water tank to reduce latex buildup on everything it touches.

Northern Cypress & White Cypress. Logs should be milled as fresh as possible and (if required) dressed/moulded immediately post milling to prevent splintering due to the brittle nature of the dried timber.

Red Bloodwood, Red Mahogany (also the portion of Morteon Bay Ash below the stocking and anything else with lots of kino) Kino build up on the saw best prevented by adding diesel to the water tank.

Ironbark: best to bark logs before sawing due to dulling effect on teeth.

Forest Red Gum: can have very steep density gradient around knots/patches of heavily interlocked grain in old growth material. Sawplate may deflect over/under/around these areas causing severe binding and loss of saw tension. Best to feed dead slow when there is evidence of a knot in the timber.

Grey Bloodwood. Very tight. Saw howls in the cut. Sawdust like powder.

Red bean, Miva Mahogany, Black Bean, Leichardt, various Fishtail Oaks, Grey Satinash, Crows Ash, Johnston River Teak, Yellow Carabeen: Don't breathe in the sawdust on the first two due to severe lung irritation, blood in urine etc etc - wear dustmask/ repirator. For all of these wash hands before eating/ smoking/ aiming urine - skin and /or nasal irritants.

Cooktown Ironwood, Georgina Gidgee. Safety precautions as per above plus remove any splinters promptly due to the highly toxic nature of the wood extractives.

Most of the rest I've sawn are just wood... some harder, some softer, some better, some worse.This is the stuff that stands out as requiring something out of the ordinary to handle

NZJake:
Long time lurker. That's exactly what I'm looking for! Thank you very much.

So I am putting together what I call 'swingblade APP'. It will include tools, converters, recovery calculators, adjusting, setup, safety, servicing, hints and tips, cut list, tally sheets etc.

So this thread will fall under 'Character'. I'll need your permission (along with Jeff's) to use information and submissions here to fill up that area. Will this be OK? I'd provide a Forestry forum link from the App...

Also it's probably a little too much to ask but would love some pictures to go along with your descriptions...

My computer eyes are exhausted and I'm signing out for the day  ::) lol.

Thanks again.

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