Whole Shop Stationary Dust Collector

samandothers · February 12, 2018, 07:31:13 PM

Nicely done!

I wonder if you rotated the wye a bit if it would affect 'where the chips fall'. I am wondering if the swirling pattern the in cyclone is fairly consistent such that it hits the wye in a way that causes one barrel to fill over the other. However, it does not look like you have too much room to play with.

SlowJoeCrow · February 12, 2018, 09:19:21 PM

No system yet to tell if barrels are full from the woodshop level. Right now I have to go downstairs and check every so often. In the future I want to have a proximity sensor in the barrel wired to a warning light that will be in the woodshop.

One thing I thought of with one barrel filling up faster is there might be a suction leak on the barrel that isn't filling up as fast. I will have to check it.

Kbeitz · February 12, 2018, 10:05:35 PM

You could slip a cheap bathroom scale under each bucket
and watch the weight or you could buy weight alarms.

SlowJoeCrow · February 17, 2018, 09:49:15 PM

Well it was bound to happen sometime, I wasn't paying attention and let the barrels over fill. WHOOPS! It wasn't too bad, only about 12 inches of chips in the filter stack. Clean it out, blow it out, get back to work. Then I did it again!! Again, only about 12 inches of chips in the filter. I need to get that Dust Sentry from Oneida. Now I know how you sawyers feel after cutting into your backstops...

SlowJoeCrow · February 22, 2018, 10:41:19 AM

A little update on emptying the barrels: I wanted to be able to empty the full barrels into bags get back to work quickly and deal with the bags later. I started out with the saw dust going into the barrels and then I would empty the barrels into large trash bags. This turned out to be a total mess and I always ended up spilling some no matter what. So I wanted to put the bags into the barrels when they were empty, and just pull out the full bags when needed. But I needed a bag hold down to keep the bags open and held down in the barrels while in use. I was going to buy them from Oneida @ $58 a piece, but I realized I was over-thinking it. I cut some old leftover linoleum that was sitting around, bolted it together to form a pipe shape, and slid it into the bag in the barrel. It holds the bag great and all I do is slide the bag hold down out of the full barrel, tie up the bag full of chips and pull it out of the barrel. Much easier and no mess.

samandothers · February 22, 2018, 07:29:33 PM

Looks like a great way to empty and get back to it quickly!

DDW_OR · March 16, 2018, 04:04:44 PM

Quote from: Crusarius on January 18, 2018, 08:50:24 AM
I have always thought about the floor but the amount of crap that gets into the outlet and if you ever move the machine then it stinks.

I am building a 30x24 wood shop from scratch and have been contemplating power from above or below, and dust collection from above or below.
I think the table saw will be both below.
and the planer and Jointer from above.

samandothers · February 02, 2019, 11:55:37 AM

@SlowJoeCrow -
Well been almost a year. How is it going? Any updates or 'ah ha' moments. You still liking your layout and the cording approach you used?

I had been thinking Clear Vue cyclone but the are a bit more green stuff than the Super Dust Deputy XL. That money could go into duct work.

How has your flex hose performed, the 6"?

Did you ground the duct and the cyclone?

Did you use the spiral pipe from Oneida or the smooth snap together pipe? Man that stuff gets kinda expensive!

Pay to play!

SlowJoeCrow · February 04, 2019, 08:49:43 AM

Hey All,

Have to apologize, I haven't been around here much, but am doing well. An update: the system is working pretty good. A few flaws: if I am planing wide wood that produces long shavings, the 6" wye fitting that is my splitter going to the two collection barrels will clog up. The long shavings get caught on the crotch of the wye and pile up in the fitting. My solution was to remove the wye and pipe straight into one barrel when need be. I still need to install some sort of full barrel light that tells me when the barrel is full. I love my layout and the ductwork and electric coming down from above. I am glad that I took advice from here and put the electric plugs down low where it is easy to disconnect quickly. I did ground the system since it was very easy to do with the metal ducting. The flex hose that I used is holding up very well, but it's important to note that I used as little as I could. For the ducting, I used the snap lock pipe from Oneida. The spiral would be nice, but overkill for my shop and very expensive to boot.

DDW_OR · February 04, 2019, 12:58:39 PM

you could add a camera and monitor for your barrows.
I have this one from Harbor Freight, #63129
it has two 12Vdc cameras. i use them as backup cameras for hooking up a trailer to my truck.

put it inside an electrical outlet box. then hold it onto the truck with a STRONG N45 Neodymium magnet.

samandothers · February 05, 2019, 12:11:09 AM

Your timing is impeccable! I noticed you had been absent for quite a while but thought you either get a notice or come back eventually.

I am looking hard at adding a cyclone. In the running would be the Clear Vue and the Oneida Super Dust Deputy XL. The both accept 6" pipe on the inlet. The exit to my blower would be a 9" on the Clear Vue or limited to the 6" on the Oneida This is based on the output openings on each unit. I'd buy just the Clear Vue housing which has a 9" opening and run my pipe from there since I would not use their motor housing. I think they both would probably work ok on my 4hp 2002 Grizzly. It is advertised as having 3500CFM.

From what I have found is the cost of the Cyclone with piping on the output sides of the unit (to the collection barrel and to the housing of my blower on they Grizzly unit) would be less expensive with Oneida by about 300 the way I have designed them.

SlowJoeCrow when you say snap together that is the pipe that is made similar to dryer duct that comes flat and you roll and snap a seam together on the side? Did you caulk the seam or just tape? Why the metal versus PVC drain as the PVC appears to maybe be less expensive. This is not considering grounding.
Thanks for your input/help!

SlowJoeCrow · February 05, 2019, 08:16:45 AM

Oneida's snap-lock pipe is pre-rolled, not flat, but yes, you snap it together.

Steel Snap-Lock Pipe for Dust Collection | Oneida Air Systems

I got the 26 gauge. HVAC piping like you can buy at Lowes is 29 gauge and is too thin and flimsy. I used HVAC foil tape to tape the seams and silicone caulk on all the elbow joints to seal things up. I initially considered pvc piping but here is what I found: long radius pvc elbows are very expensive and all pvc elbows are fixed angles. With the metal elbows, you can rotate the seams to come up with whatever angle you need. These reasons along with the convenience of metal for grounding and the fact that I could get everything at one place (Oneida) is why I went with the metal ducting. I don't regret it.

samandothers · February 05, 2019, 08:23:53 AM

Thanks SlowJoeCrow!

When I read this from Oneida's site I thought it meant the pipe had a seam the length and you needed to put it together ie roll it over and snap together:
Assembly is made quick and easy thanks to the convenient Snap-Lock seam running down the length of the pipe. Simply snap both sides together and add a small amount of silicone sealant or foil tape to ensure there are no air leaks.

I may pick your brain again as time passes.

SlowJoeCrow · February 06, 2019, 08:33:47 AM

Yes your quote is accurate, there is a snap lock seam running lengthwise down the metal ducting. Once snapped together, I used the foil tape to seal it up.

samandothers · February 06, 2019, 09:24:15 AM

Thank for the responses. They have been very helpful. This thread has been very informative in thinking through ducting and the machine placement. Thanks for your time!