1989 LT40 hydraulic help needed

[Chiselbut]

Hydraulic toe boards stopped functioning.

Insulation on smaller gauge wires at battery terminals started to melt. 

Lever actuated switch for this function does not appear to be working. No vibration or sound like the other three switches when they are pumping fluid.

1. Could it be that the melting wires and the hydraulic switch/valve issues are related? How and why?

2. I've read about the copper strip.  Where would that be located? Will check it and ensure its clean.

My plan (let me know if this makes sense) is to disconnect battery and follow the wires, check for clean and good grounds, loose wires and bad connections from the battery to the hydraulic pump and motor. 

Replace wires, tighten and clean connections, check fuses and somehow test that switch (?)

4.  Outside of calling WM - what advice and tips can you give me?

I appreciate the help here.  I'm a first time owner of a WM mill and it feels like i am learning the hard way - without prior experience and local support to draw from. 

Thoughts and thanks.

Tom 

[Southside]

Wire heat like that is usually a sign of a loose connection, so you are on the right path. I would be checking for corrosion at all connections and inside of any crimp terminals.    The copper strip is the long, 1" tall piece on the operator side of the frame by the hydraulic box.  You also want to check the ground rub on the bottom rail to make sure you have a good, clean connection there.  

[Chiselbut]

Thanks.  Next:  hydraulic switch for the toe board.  They are 35 years old.  Hopefully WM still has the part.  

[SawyerTed]

The simplest place to start when one hydraulic function stops is the micro switch on the valve.   The switches get out of adjustment sometimes.   

It takes longer to open the hydraulic box than adjust the switch.

[CCCLLC]

The 89 WM had different  valves than newer models. No micros. Four valves  hooked in sequence  to the common  manifold. Internal electrical parts still available. Replace the valve centering spring while  the handle  is off.

[Chiselbut]

This is good information and pointing me in the right direction. will contact WM and see if i can get the parts.  Thank you. 

[Chiselbut]

Here is a picture of the earlier 87-91 hydraulic switch.

[CCCLLC]

The goods news is the toeboard valve  is the first in the line of valves.  The one you're focused  on in Pic. There is a small "0" ring where it sits on the manifold when going  back on. The solenoid  in the picture may need replacement  soon so get two so one on the shelf. 

[SawyerTed]

I learn something new here everyday!  

[CCCLLC]

Woodmizer solenoid, hyd. motor. 
Part # P09595.
Don't  bother buying local. Several variations. 

[CCCLLC]

As Sawyer Ted mentioned in your other post, register  mill with WM. Parts and over the phone help become fairly easy. 

[Chiselbut]

I suppose, when i remove the switch and disconnect the lines: fluid will drain.

Advice needed:  if there is a hydraulic system drain is it best to just drain the system first?  Knowing that i also have cylinder leak that needs new seals, and i will be removing toe boards and the log lift for repainting.

In addition the wiring needs rebuilding so i may just pull the entire hydraulic pump and switch assembly/manifold too and rewire the system.

Thoughts ?

[CCCLLC]

No need to drain fluid when disconnecting the toe board  valve. You're  above the reservoir.  Will be some fluid at hose disconnect area. Shop rag needed. 

[Chiselbut]

I'm posting this progress to help another early LT40 owner.

Worked with a very patient and skilled technician (Doug) at Wood Mizer over the phone about this early hydraulic switch issue.  A+ experience. (He was working at WM during this early period and knows these early mills inside and out).

A complete switch is available and requires ordering from the manufacturer (Bucher). Price comes in at $361.89.  The internal spring is more likely the culprit and costs about $11.00.  The switch available is for the other 3 switches but are not exactly the same for the first in line toe board switch that has a slightly different design. He is consulting with others to determine if the switch plumbing can be modified to fit.

I ordered 3 springs (just in case).  He cautioned that the task to replace the spring requires care and many have damaged the switch or broke a fragile internal part while trying to fix the switch (perhaps a thin aluminum strip).  Yet, he said a person with basic mechanical skills and tools have successfully replaced the spring and repaired the switch too. He indicated that even their field repair techs have also had mixed results.

I will give it a try - and need to be in the right frame of mind when doing this.  Its easy for me to feel a little anxious and impatient when doing something for the first time.  Patience is a virtue. 

Let me know if this thread is helpful and i will take a few sequential photos of this repair and post them for the record.  I am guessing that these early first generation mills are nearing or at the point of needing these types of repairs (and there is not a lot of detail on the internet or You Tube about these early mills). 

[CCCLLC]

Definitely  would be helpful for me to follow  along on this. Pics always  helpful.  Had no idea the toeboard valve was slightly  different  than the other 3 other than the pressure  release being plumbed into it.