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removing rusty #8 and 1/4" bolts in my kit car

Started by Qweaver, December 05, 2014, 02:14:47 PM

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Qweaver

My MGTD kit car was covered in salt water in the last hurricane.  So I'm about to start taking it apart to completely rebuild it.  My problem is getting the severely rusted bolts out that hold the body together.  It's not a good idea to grind them because the heat will damage the fiberglass and there is a zillion of them.  I maybe able to just grind the bolt off carefully right above the nut and keep it as cool as possible.  Will Blue Creeper work for this.  I considered using a drop of acid.  That should not damage the fiberglass. I am going to use SS bolts when I put it back together. 
I'm interested to see what the inside of the engine and tranny look like.  I have a completely rebuild power train for the rehab.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

coxy


OneWithWood

Blue creeper is the cure.  Just make sure you add a good portion of patience.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

pineywoods

1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Jeff

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Cornishman

If all else fails drill the nut if you can get at it. Even if you don't go all the way through it should weaken it enough for you to remove it. Nut splitter if you have one will work.

r.man

The best you could hope for would be to break all of them. Six point on the back, six point on the nut with an impact that hopefully snaps them off. Quick, easy and you don't want to reuse them anyways. If you have the space use a small zip cut wheel to grind off one side of the nut and that should release the ones that strip without much heat on the bolt. I expect the washer will dissipate that amount of heat safely.
Life is too short or my list is too long, not sure which. Dec 2014

chevytaHOE5674

#8 and 1/4" bolts should be pretty easy to just twist off as r.man suggested.

Qweaver

Quote from: chevytaHOE5674 on December 06, 2014, 08:08:41 AM
#8 and 1/4" bolts should be pretty easy to just twist off as r.man suggested.
Easy to say...hard to do in most cases.  The majority are phillips pan head,  heavily rusted and hard to get to.  No way to get the torque needed to break the screw.  I think that grinding off the screw right above the nut with a thin high speed air grinder is going to be the best bet.  Then use something like Blue creeper.  Maybe BC will do it without grinding...I'll try it.

Bottom Line...they are going to be a "B"    I still have the manual that I used when I built the car so I'll just do it in reverse.  I'm sure that the VW floor pan is rusted beyond saving so I will have to built a new frame out of square tube.  I would buy a complete floor pan if I could find one.

Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Jeff

Anybody that is recommending anything other than bluecreeper has never used bluecreeper. Get some, apply to all the affected parts, and the next day, just take them apart.
Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Qweaver

So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

ktowne030311

my uncle speacializes in MG's. Check out his page, fromtheframeup.com if you need ANY parts in your build. Tell him his nephew Kory sent you.
McCulloch 5-49, Ms290/390 frankenstein, 030av, 051av

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