Converting my garage to a woodworking shop, question on (green) pine for walls?

[tyb525]

Piston, whatever you do I doubt you'll regret it too much ;) worst comes to worst you'll have some gaps to fill with chinking, if you let it dry some first like other have suggested, and don't use plastic vapor barrier (someone suggested tarpaper), you shouldn't have mold problems.

If all your boards shrink and you start getting your fingers stuck between them, well just send 'em to me and I'll get rid of those defective boards for ya ;)

[trapper]

If puting it in the garage with heat for a while Why not add a dehumidifer to remove moisture from the air?

[Piston]

If puting it in the garage with heat for a while Why not add a dehumidifer to remove moisture from the air?

Cause I don't have one  ;D

[Holmes]

Can you put the wood in a confined space, a garage, heat up the area to 90 degrees or more , close the area off and let it set for a few of hours?  Then open up the doors turn on the torpedo heater with the doors open to help change the air. Do that a few times and you will speed up the drying process. Nothing says "dry scorched air" like a torpedo heater.  You could do that in the garage you want to fix just don't work in that confined space at that temperature. IT IS carbon monoxide.

[beenthere]

Piston
How many square feet are you talking to panel the garage for your shop?

If all is paneled, then looks like 640 sq ft, or 640 bd ft ?

How long will it take you to saw that out of your log deck?

A day?  Might have to process 1000 bd ft of logs? 

Sounds doable.

Get the pine sawn up first, and by the time you have the electrical, insulation, and necessary framing done then the pine will have had a few weeks or months to dry a bit.  Might be ready to plane and nail up with no worry about mold.

[Piston]

Beenthere,
Your absolutely right.  I'm going to mill the boards first, then do all the work.  By the time I ACTUALLY get to the step where I'm ready to put up the pine, it will probably have a few years of drying time anyways  :D :D

(I'm thinking on paper here)  The back wall of the garage is only 6' tall, and 18' wide, so there is 108sq feet. 
The side walls are both 22' long, and gabled ends to the roof, so the average height I'm going to guess at 8' or so, there is another 122sq feet X2. 
So for those three walls the total square footage is 460 not including the front.  I'm not including the front wall because most of it is garage door, there is probably only 60-70 square feet there, so lets call it 550-600 total that I will need. 
That doesn't include the ceiling.  I'd have to measure it to get a pretty accurate estimate, however, I'm thinking about doing the ceiling in drywall for brightness (I'll regret it when I'm joint compounding)

[LeeB]

Put the drywall on the ceiling and cover the joints with thin strips of wood. Screw holes are easy to putty. Maybe even put the strips to make 4ft squares for a designed look.

[red]

So lets see no heat in your garage . .your Dad drys wood . . and Honey do List gets longer . . perfect  lol

[Magicman]

When you do install the boards, the sides toward the "living area" will still continue to dry more than the side toward the studs.  This will cause the edges of the boards to cup toward the living area.

Installing the boards with the "pith side" toward the living area and "bark side" toward the studs will minimize this cupping action.

[DR Buck]

I think I saw only one mention of an option to using OSB.  I did this in my first shop and it worked well.  I bought the sheets on sale at the box store for $3.99 each.  I think it is around $5 now.    The cost to do your entire shop would be less than $200 and it could be done in a single day.   If you do go the pine route, I would still use something like OSB or plywood for the ceiling and not drywall, especially if it is a standard 8' height garage.  That way when you are swinging those 8 and 10 foot boards around, you are not poking holes in the ceiling.

My new shop is a conversion of my attached 24' x 32' garage.  This time I insulated, used drywall and ran heat and AC.  8)     I only got to have 2/3 of it though.  I had to give the wife 10' x' 24'  for her embroidery room.   I only wish the ceiling was higher.


This was the garage when I first built it.





This is what it looks like now




Inside views

[thecfarm]

Where's her side?  :D  Just a kidding ya. That looks some nice. Clean and organized.

[Magicman]

When I converted my then woodworking shop to a guest house, the walls and ceilings were OSB.  I roller "painted" them with a slurry mixture of sheetrock mud and primer paint which sealed them nicely and smoothed the surface.  The walls were then wallpapered and the ceiling were painted white.

[pineywoods]

Dang Buck, no way is that shop useable...too clean and uncluttered, no sawdust on the floor, no piles of lumber everywhere. I guess I need to post some pics of mine as an example  :

[DR Buck]

Dang Buck, no way is that shop useable...too clean and uncluttered, no sawdust on the floor, no piles of lumber everywhere. I guess I need to post some pics of mine as an example  :

You should see it now!  :D   I can hardly find anything because it's so messy and cluttered.   I need to get cabinets on the walls so I can put stuff away.

[Magicman]

And then you will never see your stuff again.   :-\   :D

[Piston]

That's a really nice looking shop!  I'd like to see some more pics of anyone's shop if you care to post.  Especially "garage-turned-shop" type wood shops like I'm planning.  I've google imaged a bunch on this subject and have found some really neat shops-all out of my budget however  :D

I'm not against OSB, I didn't realize it was that cheap, I wonder how much it is around my neck of the woods. 

[tcsmpsi]

OSB has doubled in price, here.  Not sure about other parts of the country.  The 7/16 was around 6 bucks, is now over 12.

One thing about green wood... it is wet wood.  What are you thinking of for fasteners?  The wet will dote around the fastener when it makes a path through the wood, which will be caught and held longer than the rest of the wood.  Rust.

[Piston]

I just checked on OSB.  $11 for 1/2" and $21 for 3/4".

[drobertson]

Piston, just another thought, if you have access to a molder planer, you can plane one side and profile the lap,

   :christmas:

[Peter Drouin]

Hi Piston how about if you shiplap the wood like 1" on the sides you could do it with a router,so when it shrinks you would not see through it, I use dry wood ,but with 1/2 " on the lap, I had to size the wood through the table saw to make sure all the boards are 10" wide, [for me] that way I just plum the first board and go and not plum all of them hope this helps heres my shop

  

  

   :christmas:

[Piston]

Piston, just another thought, if you have access to a molder planer, you can plane one side and profile the lap,

Unfortunately I don't have access to one.  That is really neat though that you can plane and shape all in one pass.  I'd be a T&G making machine with one of those!  ;D

Peter,
That is a great looking shop.  Did you build it from scratch or convert an old outbuilding?  I really like the woodstove and slender brick chimney! 
Your chimney setup looks very similar to the one in my barn in NH.


 

[Peter Drouin]

yes piston I built the house and the shop green house too all of it I started with raw land

 

see how I twisted the chimney on top. on a day with no wind the smoke will spin

[drobertson]

Piston, I use to use a dato blade on pine for making a simple lap joint, I think what paul mentioned.  It will allow for shrinkage with no thru gaps, and as mentioned earlier maybe some 16# felt paper backing it up? Just an idea,  I have stashed pine back for my garage, only to sell it. one day I will finish mine,  good luck man, what ever you do, you might use screws so disassembly will be easier if need be. 

[tyb525]

Shiplaping with a dado blade is a good idea, gaps won't reveal what's behind the wall that way.

I my shop, I didn't have the pine logs and I didn't want to cover the walls in nice hardwood, so I was able to get 7/16" for a pretty good price, about $6 a year ago. Some places still sell 1/4" OSB, I used that for the ceiling. It's not very strong but it's stronger than 1/2" drywall, and much lighter.

I don't like the looks of OSB, but if you paint it white it really brightens the area up, and it's cheap and easy as anything. But it's still glued together chips of wood ;D

[drobertson]

I wonder how the squeegeez that give a grained look with stain would work on the osb?  we did some metal doors with them, and although they are metal doors, not a bad look.