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End sealer

Started by Mesquite cutter, August 25, 2020, 11:02:35 AM

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Mesquite cutter

What type of sealer would y'all recommend for sealing the ends of the logs?  I have used paint but I was thinking of  something more practical.   It would be mostly Mesquite, Texas Ebony, Oak and Pecan.  
Backyard woodworker. 
DIY sawmill
Youtube:  Retired DIY Guy

doc henderson

anything is better than nothing.  anchorseal is very good, but more expensive than free left over house paint.  I have used both.  I am a hobby guy so the cost saving of the wood vs cost of product and application does not really matter to me.  I got my first 5 gallons from the company.  my second 5 gallons from a hardwood store that buys it in 55 gallon barrels and will sell it in smaller quantities.  this shipping on a 5 gallon amount from uc coatings is not free.  you can have it colored from the manufacturer.  the original vs the anchorseal 2 has to do with plant additives to make the # 2 cheaper.  any of them work best if applied soon after cutting.  If I have a friend who has a log for me, I have them put on paint if they are a ways away.  several coats is better than one.



Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

you can get it on amazon  for 125 dollars for 5 gallons and free shipping for anchorseal 2.  you can buy direct from uc coatings and have color added as well as antifreeze for additional cost.  I bought 5 gallons of the anchorseal 2 for 70 bucks, but had to take my container to the store and have it pumped in.  The blue colored is the original formula with antifreeze and color.  I have had it for over a year and still have some left.  I use an airless sprayer.  it can be rolled on.  you want a thick layer, and I tended to get as much on the ground as the log.   :D
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

firefighter ontheside

I've bought anchorseal by the gallon from amazon and at Woodcraft.  About same price.  I definitely think its better than paint, but as Doc said, paint is better than nothing.  I've even used some water based poly that I had laying around.  That worked ok too.
Woodmizer LT15
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Stephen1

I use anchorseal with antifreeze in it. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

farmfromkansas

Thanks to Doc for getting me a bucket of anchorseal, have heard that the white roof coating  Koolseal will work also. Menards has it occasionally 5 gallons for 50$.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

scsmith42

Quote from: farmfromkansas on August 25, 2020, 09:07:15 PM
Thanks to Doc for getting me a bucket of anchorseal, have heard that the white roof coating  Koolseal will work also. Menards has it occasionally 5 gallons for 50$.
Koolseal is a very bad idea, in my humble opinion.
The problem is that you either have to end trim the stuff off of every board after drying, or you risk tarring up your planer and jointers from the ends of the boards.
Perhaps it's no big deal to a hobbiest that doesn't mind the extra work and waste, but for most of us the cost of end trim and yield loss is much greater than the cost of Anchorseal.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

doc henderson

it was my pleasure FFK.  yes anything is better than nothing, but anchorseal works well and burns off in the kiln.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Walnut Beast

Quote from: Stephen1 on August 25, 2020, 04:43:26 PM
I use anchorseal with antifreeze in it.
Is the antifreeze used for cold weather ?

doc henderson

yes. it is a water based wax emulsion.  so it will separate if it freezes.  I was told the antifreeze did not change the working characteristics.  If you do not have a heated shop ect.  it will protect your "not so cheap" but effective product.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Al_Smith

You can use roof coating/asphalt sealer but you need to cut a cookie off the end before it's  sawn else it will streak the lumber .Other than that I use anchor seal .

WDH

That Kool Seal is some really nasty stuff.  If you get any on your clothes or skin, it is basically permanent :D. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

How important is it to have lumber free of end checks?  If you do have checks or splits caused by drying, is it a financial loss?  The cost of using Anchorseal is about $5 per MBF. The shorter the lumber, or logs, the higher the cost per BF on lumber or logs.

Asa reminder, certain species, like oak, have a higher tendency to develop large end checks, compared to basswood or pine.  Thicker lumber is more prone, and the cost of damage is higher, so always cost thicker lumber.

Finally, the coating must be thick enough to stop drying.  In fact on expensive species like walnut, use two coats.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

YellowHammer

I've been using a lot of Klingspors Green Wood Sealer, at $17 per gallon, flat rate and fast shipping.  I have seen no difference in performance.  

I didn't realize Anchorseal had dropped their shipping costs on their Anchorseal 2.

I have stopped end sealing logs, I leave some end trim on the logs, mill them, sticker them and then pack saw them to length on the pallet.  It saves all of the time I used to waste pre bucking logs, and 50% of the sealer used.
 
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

TroyC

Is it necessary to seal pine? I've read it isn't necessary so I'm wondering if I am wasting money.

KenMac

Quote from: TroyC on August 27, 2020, 03:42:02 PM
Is it necessary to seal pine? I've read it isn't necessary so I'm wondering if I am wasting money.
From what I've been told, you do not need to end coat pine or other soft woods. I'm sure someone more knowledgable will chime in soon.
Cook's AC3667t, Cat Claw sharpener, Dual tooth setter, and Band Roller, Kubota B26 TLB, Takeuchi TB260C

WDH

No. there is no meed to end seal pine.  That sure makes it nice. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Mesquite cutter

Thank you for all the information.   I will look into using anchor seal.  I would not need to use antifreeze around here.  We only have two season.  Summer and fall.  :D :D
Backyard woodworker. 
DIY sawmill
Youtube:  Retired DIY Guy

TmbrWlkr

I saw a YouTube video where a woodworker was using Titebond 2 glue - he switched from Anchorseal - advantages are : costs, availability, and volume choices.  He claimed similar performance.

RussMaGuss

I bought a gallon of rockler's green wood sealer for like $22. Seemed similar to polycrylic. I agree with Gene where if the wood isn't highly valuable, don't even  waste your time, but at the same time I'd guess I used up maybe $3-4 for 1500 bdft of white oak. I did put 2 coats on the single walnut log I happened upon though lol 

WDH

Got another 5 gallon pail of anchorseal today.  I am sticking with the anchorseal.  In the long run, it is worth it to me.  I found paint to not be useless, but it is close  :).  
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Walnut Beast

Doesn't seem Anchorseal make the smaller buckets anymore? Wonder why ?

doc henderson

I still see a quart or gallon size for anchorseal.  on amazon
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Walnut Beast

Good deal. I bought from the company sometime ago then noticed they didn't seem to offer the smaller pail I had got.

Walnut Beast

Just looked on there site. It's the colored one I wanted to get that's only in 5 gallon buckets now. They used to offer in smaller buckets in different colors 

doc henderson

prob. right on that note.  I looked on amazon.  can call the company and see what type of pigment they use.  not sure if it water based, or other?  if it is regular paint pigment, see if your local paint or hardware store will throw some in it for you.  I had questions and spoke to the UC coating company and they were very helpful.  
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Brad_bb

I only use Anchor seal original.  When you calculate the cost per BF, it's so miniscule, it's not worth my time to chase those pennies. There are a lot of other ways to save time or money that are more worth while by pursuing other avenues of efficiency.  If you mill very little wood though, the up front cost is a real cost to you.   
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Larry

Some woodturning clubs buy a 55 gallon drum of Anchorseal and resell at cost to turners.  If somebody peddling wood @YellowHammer had a drum and the word got out they were reselling, turners might just buy a $100 of wood while picking up a gallon. :)
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

YellowHammer

I just might do that, I could order it by the tote.  

I just looked at ordering some 5 gallon buckets of Anchorseal, but see on their website they are apparently still charging $33 for shipping per 5 gallons.  So for me to order 10 gallons costs $66 in shipping.  I canceled the order.    

I have been using the Kilngspors, it's made in bulk by another company, $17 per gallon, $7 flat rate shipping for the entire order.  I've been using it for maybe a couple years now, and I actually prefer it over the Anchoseal.  It seems to lay on a little thicker, goes through my spray equipment well, and there isn't any difference in end cracking.  It's also 30% less expensive and also saves me nearly $60 in shipping and can be ordered online with the click of a button.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

An effective end sealer must be able to attach to green wood, must be applied before any checking begins, and must stop the ends from drying. 

Many so-called end coatings fail in one of these three.  However, as the species the poor coatings are used on do not check easily, it appears that the coatings work.  The more expensive the wood, the more critical to use an expensive and effective coating applied correctly.

 In the wintertime, water leaving the wood through the end can form ice and then the coating covers the ice but not the wood, so the coating must be put on the fresh end ASAP.  In the summertime, the ends begin to dry soon after being sawn, so again, ASAP.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Walnut Beast

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on September 16, 2020, 08:24:32 AM
An effective end sealer must be able to attach to green wood, must be applied before any checking begins, and must stop the ends from drying.

Many so-called end coatings fail in one of these three.  However, as the species the poor coatings are used on do not check easily, it appears that the coatings work.  The more expensive the wood, the more critical to use an expensive and effective coating applied correctly.

In the wintertime, water leaving the wood through the end can form ice and then the coating covers the ice but not the wood, so the coating must be put on the fresh end ASAP.  In the summertime, the ends begin to dry soon after being sawn, so again, ASAP.
So what do you recommend besides Anchorseal ??

doc henderson

so I would ask it this way.  is there anything better than anchorseal for the same price, or anything just as good, but cheaper.  I think there not going to be a consistent answer.  @GeneWengert-WoodDoc @WDH @YellowHammer
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

K-Guy


Everyone has an opinion, plus who decides what is good enough?
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A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
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YellowHammer

I guess the name Klingspors Green Wood Sealer kind of puts people off. :D :D  It makes it sounds bush league.

But what if I had called it Sealtite 60 End Coating from ISK Biocides?

Sealtite 60 End Coating

 It is a professional end coating.  Klingspors and other companies just rebottle and rename.


YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

xlogger

Most of my logs I get have been cut a week or more. Is there any need to paint them? I usually do. Most of the time I can't cut off much of the ends. I need the lengths. If I get a 16 ft I cut it into half then paint. 
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

mohicanww

Rockler also sells a Rockler branded green wood sealer at $22 per gallon - it is anchorseal 2.

2002 WoodMizer LT40HDD42 w/Accuset 2

aigheadish

Yet another game I'm real new to...

After reading a handful of threads about end sealers it sounds like either anchorseal2 or Klingspors are the best bets, but also folks are watering them down a bit? Is that correct? 

And I saw the spray method thread rather than the brush method, that looks nice. 

My big pile of logs didn't get any of that but after the crazy amount I'm learning here on FF I'm realizing I may be lucky to use any of that, however these are all good things to know for when I knock over more trees...
New Holland LB75b, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Husqvarna GTH52XLS, Hammerhead 250, Honda VTX1300 for now and probably for sale (let me know if you are interested!)

doc henderson

the thinning was for ease of spraying.  I use anchorseal.  it is great.  latex paint is better than nothing.  so it depends on the value you place on the log.  for someone who occasionally brings me a log for themselves, I tell them a thick coat of left over paint will help.  most non woodworking homeowners do not want a 5 gallon pail.
it may take several coats of any product.  especially if you thin it.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

aigheadish

Thanks @doc henderson ! 

As I learn more and start on new and different projects I'm starting to value my wood more highly. Unfortunately, like I've mentioned, I've got a fair amount of logs or chunks of logs that I have had around for anywhere from a couple months to probably 4 years, just laying in piles. I'm not sure what will be usable and what won't but I'm now considering the future wood I still have to cut down or what happens when I acquire wood from others. 

Am I reading correctly that some folks just pour antifreeze into their sprayer of anchorseal, if it wasn't ordered with the winterizer?

I appreciate your help!
New Holland LB75b, Husqvarna 455 Rancher, Husqvarna GTH52XLS, Hammerhead 250, Honda VTX1300 for now and probably for sale (let me know if you are interested!)

doc henderson

It is specific.  I think it may be methanol (alcohol)  not ethylene glycol (car antifreeze).  they are nice, and I think they will tell you what to use use and the ratio.  talk to tech support.  Most of the benefit is if it is done as soon as it is cut.  after a few months prob. no benefit unless you trim 6 inches to get to wet wood.  defeating the purpose which is to prevent end checks and waste.  so starting now I would end coat good logs.  good luck.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

farmfromkansas

Would RV antifreeze be the proper additive for the log sealer?
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

doc henderson

I think so but you can ask UC and be sure.  It may be watered down, so you may need pure or higher concentration by the time to added it to say 5 gallons.  it is formulated to be safe for humans and may be polyethylene glycol. the same as PEG wood stabilizer and Miralax  the laxative.  I will try to look.  i add windshield wash to my lube tank, but it is full concentration as i only add dawn and spindle lube, a few glugs.  so if you added a cup of RV antifreeze to 5 gallons of anchorseal, is it compatible and will it protect from freezing?
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Walnut Beast

Quote from: farmfromkansas on January 01, 2021, 11:37:48 AM
Would RV antifreeze be the proper additive for the log sealer?
When I talked to them they absolutely did not advise to do it. They basically said when guys add to there mixture they already have that it's getting watered down and defeating the purpose. They  have there own concoction that has the proper ratios

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