O2 Sensor?

[OlJarhead]

Anyone have an alternative part number or source for the Kholer O2 sensor for the 2016 26.5hp Kholer on the LT40?  Just in case WM can't get it to this week?

Also, any advice on removing the old one?  I sprayed it with penetrating fluid and am just looking for some input.

Heat?  C4?  ;D

[ladylake]

 If they have locktite on it , it will need a little heat.  Steve

[Southside]

Datasheet would cut cleaner than C4.  ;D

[OlJarhead]

Oh C4 cuts very clean!

[Southside]

But how you going to make a shape charge around that sensor? Couple dots of sheet and she will be ready to install the new one. My O2 sensor is good or I would try it on mine first.  :D

[OlJarhead]

Detcord, that would do it 😉

Actually C4 was made for cutting metal...at least that's what I trained in with it 😉

But I am hopeful I can get this one out with penetrating fluid and or heat otherwise it may have to be a big pipe wrench and cheater bar...and a new muffler lol

[Southside]

It's likely carboned up. Are there any injector cleaners that eat carbon available locally? 

[beenthere]

But I am hopeful I can get this one out with penetrating fluid 

Would be good if you have the blue creeper from LogRite. Can't be beat.. 

[OlJarhead]

Not sure about the carbon eaters but ran some seafoam through it.

Would love some blue cheaper but had WD40

[beenthere]

Treat  yourself to the Blue Creeper and enjoy life. WD-40 not even in the same penetrating ballpark..   8)

[Southside]

I meant to spray the threads with carbon eating fluid. And yea, WD40 is basically water, it doesn't penetrate much at all.

[DanielW]

The Kohler number appears to be 2541807S (sometimes written as 25-418-07-S). Not sure about your area, but when I Google it Amazon seems to have them with 2 day shipping. Not that I necessarily want to turn into the type of person who buys everything from Amazon, but I concede that it's pretty convenient sometimes.

I no longer even try to get out O2 sensors without heat: just too risky to twist the manifold if it doesn't come loose. Give it a minute with the O/A torch or even a handheld MAP torch and it should spin out. Penetrating oils don't seem to do much for exhaust system components - just too much rust and galling from the heat/cool cycles.

[jpassardi]

I agree completely. Heat it if it doesn't move easily or you'll have much more work to do.

[rusticretreater]

Yeah heat would be good.  Also loosen, tighten, loosen, tighten.  There will be a lot of junk in the threads to knock off.

[OlJarhead]

Heat worked and I was able to get one off Amazon (I am not a fan but for $37 vs $110 I couldn't argue) and got the mill back running!  8) 8) 8)

[jpassardi]

Good deal. Did you put anti-sieze on the threads so you don't get shafted next time?
Yeah, sometimes it's hard to argue with the prices of Chinesium non-critical parts from Amazon or Ebay. I recently got 4 glow plugs for my Bobcat for $25 in the mailbox the next day...

[OlJarhead]

So ya, I did not.

I also was unhappy with my chasing of the threads and never felt they went in right.  I've decided the next time it needs doing I'll replace the exhaust too (this mill is 100% of the time outdoors and generally only the controls and debarker are covered so rust on the exhaust is terminal).

My plan is to setup a sawmill shed, replace the exhaust and O2 sensor when I do and then keep the mill dry! ;)  At least I hope I can make that happen.

Life has a way of getting in the way of my plans but I finally set up, what I think, is a log yard I can live with, with room to expand a little.