LT40 Power feed dead

thechknhwk · June 13, 2015, 11:13:51 PM

Power feed died sitting in the garage... unbelievable. Took the mill outside to rip some 2x4's in half and turned it on and the power feed didn't want to work. Then it worked for a moment and I gigged back to the tongue then it was dead again. I checked the fuse and it looked like it was sticking out a bit, but it's not resetting. When you push it in it's firm and the auto clutch fuse sticks out about the same amount and is firm as well, so I don't think it's tripped.

I checked the manual and it's stating I'm supposed to be getting some lights here, but I don't see anything.

Any ideas or suggestions appreciated. I checked the wiring at the motor and gave it a couple slaps. Wiring in the box looks good, no bare or broken wires I can see and I took the connectors off the power feed fuse and put them back on just for giggles.

pineywoods · June 14, 2015, 11:04:55 AM

Assuming you had the key switch on when you looked for those lights, most likely a tripped breaker, possibly corroded connection in the fuse box. Without 12 volt power to that module (no lights), definitely not moving the head.

PC-Urban-Sawyer · June 14, 2015, 11:34:40 AM

Quote from: pineywoods on June 14, 2015, 11:05:07 AM
Assuming you had the key switch on when you looked for those lights, most likely a tripped breaker, possibly corroded connection in the fuse box. Without 12 volt power to that module (no lights), definitely not moving the head.

You can say that again, Piney!

:D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D :D

All joking aside, good advice.

Herb

gmmills · June 14, 2015, 09:38:00 PM

Take a test light or volt meter and test for voltage at both terminals of the breaker with the key on. These breakers can only be tripped a finite amount of times before they will fail internally. Even if the reset button is in, the breaker may not have internal continuity. I have seen this issue with one of the local LT70 owners . No lights on the power feed module and reset button in. Had power at only one terminal of the breaker. A new breaker solved the issue.

MartyParsons · June 14, 2015, 09:52:38 PM

Hello,
The circuit breakers depending on the amps on them do not look the same. The circuit breaker is only for the motor and higher amps in the circuit. ( the ones you have in the picture) If you do not have power to the module then you need to check from the ignition switch then to the 15 amp circuit breaker CB2 ( this breaker has a reset button) then to # 1 on the power feed drum switch. #3 and # 4 are the positive and negative going to the control module. If you have power to # 1 and to #4 with the switch forward then you will need to check the connections coming through the cable carrier or know as the CAT track. If you have the owners manual there is a wiring diagram and you can follow the flow of the current. I have seen the P1 or the P2 connectors come undone or the plug break. This was in the late 1998 and 1999 years when there were more issues with the plugs. I have not seen any new mills with the plugs broken is some time. I dont remember what year your mill is.

Hope this helps.
Marty

thechknhwk · June 15, 2015, 06:40:58 PM

Talked to Marty PA-tech-mizer this morning and figured out the fingers on the drum switch are a little out of adjustment and need some dialectric grease. All is well now, thanks for the suggestions. 8)

Magicman · June 15, 2015, 08:44:41 PM

I always appreciate seeing the "rest of the story" posted. Someone else will possibly have the same problem and need that "fix".

Chuck White · June 15, 2015, 09:08:34 PM

Glad to hear "she's" fixed, thechknhwk.

thechknhwk · June 15, 2015, 10:22:35 PM

I know it, I hate those open ended threads! Did you fix it or not, and what the hang did you do to fix it?!? People take time from their lives to offer advice then ya leave 'em all hangin'. :D

Ga Mtn Man · June 18, 2015, 04:38:12 PM

It's also helpful if we know what mill you have. ;)

thechknhwk · June 21, 2015, 12:04:06 AM

Quote from: Ga Mtn Man on June 18, 2015, 04:38:12 PM
It's also helpful if we know what mill you have. ;)

Are you referring to me or was that just a generalization?

thechknhwk · June 29, 2015, 04:52:00 PM

So all was not well.... turns out one of the fingers on the drum switch was broken.

It was Saturday and WM is closed, and I had promised to do some sawing on Sunday for the fine fella that borrowed me a boom lift, so I improvised.

Yes, that is part of a pop can top. Then a second finger broke while sawing on Sunday, so we had to make another one. Then a relay or capacitor went out in the electrical panel. The whole accuset panel was dead with when the key was on. Luckily the guy I was working with is is an awesome problem solver that works on lifts and telehandlers all the time, so he figured it out and had a spare in his shop. I have a new drum switch in the mail....

POSTON WIDEHEAD · June 29, 2015, 07:40:12 PM

I would be thinking that is unusual for a drum finger to break. Theres not really that much pressured ever applied.
i'm glad you found the problem Hawk.

Magicman · June 29, 2015, 08:49:00 PM

That is a mystery to me too because I know where there are two that are original on a '98 model sawmill. ;D

They may both break tomorrow, but they sawed today.

Peter Drouin · June 30, 2015, 06:06:03 AM

In all the years I never saw that happen.

Ga Mtn Man · June 30, 2015, 08:08:36 AM

chknhawk, what year is your mill? How many hours on it?

thechknhwk · June 30, 2015, 08:17:20 AM

2002, 3500hrs

Jim_Rogers · July 01, 2015, 09:15:53 AM

Just about every time I had to replace my drum switch it was because a tab had broken. I find it is the only thing that usually breaks on them.
That piece of metal gets bend back and forth all day long every time you move the switch. Sooner or later the metal is going to wear out and break.
It usually happens on a Friday afternoon or Saturday after woodmizer has closed.
I try and keep a switch on hand to replace them.

Jim Rogers
PS. with an WM outlet in Maine now I can usually get the part next day with out any extra shipping charge. It's great to be close by.

pineywoods · July 01, 2015, 09:39:58 AM

Here's a way to get back sawing until parts arrive. Those fingers are replaceable. On some switches, you may have to drill out a small brass rivet. On the up-down drum switch, there is one set of contacts that are normally closed. These short across the up-down motor to serve as an electric brake. Steal that contact and use it to replace the broken one. The only ill effect from the missing up-down contact is it will be a little more difficult to stop the head up-down where you want it. Don't trash the old switch. Keep it for a source of replacement fingers.

POSTON WIDEHEAD · July 01, 2015, 06:06:13 PM

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on July 01, 2015, 09:15:53 AM

PS. with an WM outlet in Maine now I can usually get the part next day with out any extra shipping charge. It's great to be close by.

smiley_nananana ( just poking you Jim

)