Found out about this mill from a friend. It is at least 12 years old never used. Was put in the barn and owner died. Widow still has it. But then a tree fell on the barn and the barn fell on the mill. I think it needs many many hours of TLC and a new frame for the saw. How do you put a value on a mill like this?
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A new one is about 8400 without a trailer. With damage, an expired warranty, and a good possibility of the engine having problems it shouldn't be worth more than 2500 on a good day. I would start out offering maybe 1500 and not be in a hurry to go up. It hasn't moved in 12 years, so it doesn't appear buyers are beating a path to the door.
I wonder the price of the mill 12 years ago.
Hate to see good machinery go to waste.
Sure, it can likely be fixed, but time and cost are
probably beyond the cost of a new one,
D
call timberking. If the carriage is tweaked a little there is a fair amount of adjustment. new carb and some lube and tlc. need to pull it out and take a good look at it. My TK 2000 is used and I think I could get more for it used than I paid. prices are up about 50% over what I paid, but also with upgrades.
Be good if it were pulled out to see if there is actual damage. Carb kit, and a little tlc would probably fix the mill to running condition. Neighbors bought a 1600 that had not run in years, about a day in the shop it was running.
sam-tip (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=18038) ;
I would offer them a $1000 for it. The head can be cut and refabricated From what i can see very easily. $1000 to $2500 should get it going if the engine can run with a little tinkering. Looks like the bed is ok and can be made to work.
Leon
buy it! heck... my LT 15 I just sold had sat out for a few years with just a small tarp half way over the motor.. it wouldnt take much to get that baby going..
muffler looks like it ran a bit. just so you feel like you got a good deal, it is prob. worth 4 or 5 thousand with the trailer, barring major damage. only cut wood on Sunday! :)
It's a sad situation but at best I'd offer no more than $1,500 but probably would start a $1,000. In the condition sitting where it is it is worth little more than scrap prices. It's doable but a lot of work and some money is going to have to be invested to get it operating. I believe I'd try to get an auto body frame shop should to straighten the frame if it's tweaked.
The "market value", consider it's present state, the cost to have it professionally repaired, machine time, welding ,replacement parts, etc. If you can do those things at that level then that's to your advantage, not to the sellers. Then consider who else will show up to buy it. I would say scrap price is the "market value", same as an old car sitting under the same barn. No buyer would consider what a new one costs today as a comp value.
Personally, I don't think I would pay over $1K for it as it sits. FWIW that is not a reflection on the quality of the brand - I own two of their sister companies machines and they are absolutely excellent products. More of a reality check on the price of time and what neglect has done.
Just sent me some more photos. They must want to get rid of it. Pulled it out of the shed. To me the back frame looks bent down.
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Something does not look right for sure, maybe it's just a broken bolt on the cam followers, maybe it's the frame. Personally, I don't think a frame shop could straighten a sawmill frame to the tolerance of new. Automobile frames don't need to be sub 1/16" true as you can make body and alignment adjustments to make up for a problem, not really the case on a mill. Sounds like they are motivated. Might take an offer, might back peddle thinking they have a pot of gold there, only one way to find out.
I would have to see it in person, but from the pics, does not look badly damaged. Bet it will saw lumber if you get the motor running.
If it rolls down the track and all four wheels are contacting the rails, and the head moves up and down, most of that can be adjusted. put a strait edge across the faces of the band wheels and a little off is all adjustable. fresh belts, filter, oil, and a trip through the carwash. do the adjustments, frame shop if needed but can do most at home if you have heavy stuff. look it over good with a four foot ruler and a length of string to see if something is torqued. the one rear wheel looks lifted, but roll it and see if it is just off a little or if the frame of the carriage is bent. call the techs at TK. Lots of new assembled stuff need a little bending right off the line. we just do not see it. while you have them on the phone, see what that package costs new with the trailer.
when you said frame, I thought you meant the carriage. I see that and may be why the wheel is up. run the carriage forward after getting it level as you can and see if it fits straight. If I did not have mine, I would not be afraid of it. unless you see something in person that we are not seeing.
With what I am able to determine from the photos I think $2500 would be a starting point. Think what the price is for an entry level mill sitting on the ground is, the Harbor freight mill is about $2000 and the other manufactures go up from there. This is a quality mill with good manufacture support.
If the engine is bad A new H.F. 22hp predator is $700 , a frame shop about $500 for an up-down pull, so you have another 1200 to 2000 invested, look around and see if there are similar mills selling for around $5000 and there is the answer to the value .
Looks to me from the photos that the bottom carriage track frame is bent, the frame part with the rollers in it. I put a straight edge on my screen here against that piece and it does not follow a straight line end to end. Put a straight edge along the main bed frame and it looks straight.
That's my best computer generated guess :D
Anything that needs work, figure your labor rate for any work you have to do to it. You could put a lot of hours into it. Also, I'm somewhat averse to dealing with widows. If you make an offer on what that mill is worth as it sits, you will likely be remembered as the guy that lowballed the widow.
Do you want to tinker or do you want to saw?A used up and running saw of the same size can be had for not a lot of money.
Seems like a few ?? marks about this saw.
Best of luck to you.
Thanks to forestry forum I found a post which had a price list attached in 2008. Took some searching but FF kept showing me similar posts at the bottom and I kept reading.
New 1220 complete 15 hp $6195
New Supercharged 25hp 3 blades $6.995
Transport Package $795
7.5ft Bed Extension $795
Box of 6 Blades $156
2020 Internet price with 23 hp standard $8295
Spreadsheet is attached if anyone wants to compare other TK models from 2008
From what the pictures show, I think the frames are straight. Looks like there might be an issue with the forward carriage rollers. Possibly a bent pin or bolts going through the wheels or mounting brackets bent. I would think that would be fixable even with minimal mechanical or welding experience (should that be the case). If it was me trying to decide whether or not to purchase this mill, I would offer $3,000.00 for a mill of that quality in an instant and feel confident I treated the widow with respect and got a good machine as well. If the engine turns over, it will likely not need much to get it operational as well. The fenders need a little adjusting or just plain remove them. One less thing to scrape you shins on. Good luck with your decision.
In the new pictures It looks like the bed has very little damage, but the front structure of the head needs some reconstruction, Front corner posts cross bracket and trolley wheels.
Leon
Did you get the mill yet ?
I had a couple trepidation when I bought my mill 2 years ago. I paid 3500 for my Mighty Mite Gen 2.
But I've sawed more than that on it so far .
If you have time and desire to tinker then that Timber King might be just the ticket for you.
Leaves more money to buy an edger with .
Sam, Let the seller put a value on it. Then go from there explain what you see wrong and your concerns first.
Plan to pick up the mill tomorrow night. I told them what I thought it was worth and they asked for a little more. Sold. I have not seen it in person. With it out of the barn they would need to start mowing the grass around the mill soon. Save the details till I get it home.
Planning to load it on my deck over flat bed trailer to get it home. This will be a good addition to my other mill. Swing blade slabber. Thing I liked about this Timberking is the 16 inch throat. Will be able to rip some firewood logs so they will fit the firewood processor. Tried it with a LT40 super but not enough throat. Plus the timberking should make some nice lumber. Swing blade waists to much wood making stickers. 1/4 to 3/8 kerf.
I sent Timberking the serial number on Monday. The mill was made early 2007 and picked up Feb 2007. Came with 20 hp Kohler engine. So the mill might have seen some road salt on its way to Iowa.
Sam-Tip
Congrats on the mill. I'm sure you will get it producing lumber real soon.
Great find. I'm jealous!
Leon
did you bring it home tonight? let us know!!
Got the 1220 home late tonight. Long afternoon. Needs work at the bottom rollers. I think the track will be ok. The bend is at the connection point on both sides. I did get 12 very rusty blades. I was able to pick the mill up with pallet forks using the Toolcat. Was not heavy.
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Good luck with the saw, it looks very fixable. I'd toss those blades and start fresh. they look too far gone imo
Glad you got it. After all the discussion of what you should pay for it. What did you actually pay for it.
That poor mill.
And such a sad story.
I paid $1750 for the Timberking 1220
Disregard my comment as I missed the entire page 2 of replies and it was no longer relevant. I removed it. ;D
The bottom angle iron is bent. The part that holds the rollers. It is angle iron with a flat welded to the other side.
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That bottom frame you can bent back, take it off the mill, use a stronger steel beam put a jack in the middle and 2 strong chains left and right to tie the frame down, then use the jack until the frame is back to straight
lube it all up good, replace angle iron @ rollers, replace or clean carb and filters/oil and see what happens! thats a great price.. hell.. just in steel alone when I built my 1st mill trailer this winter so it was portable was 800 dollars.. plus 400 for jacks.. and a bunch of time.. then axle cost used 150.00.. so you did awesome!
keep us posted!
Congratulations on a good buy👍👍
sam-tip (https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=profile;u=18038)
That was a great decision you made to buy that mill.
Looks like a little fabricating, engine to run and alinement. The sawdust will fly soon!
If I lived closer I would enjoy helping you.
Leon
I think this mill was a great buy. I also am happy that this mill that sat for so many years without being used will finally saw some lumber. It would have been a crying shame if it had rusted away to junk in that old barn. I hope things go well for you and you have many productive hours with your mill.
you will know your mill and engine, inside and out when you get it going, better than you would if you bought a new mill. I learn new stuff about my mill often, and I have had it for 8 years. You paid their price so feel good about that, but could consider making a little something as a memorial to the prev. owner passed on from some wood milled if you like. might mean more than the money they received.
Well motor is locked up. Ordered a 22hp Predator. The two local Harbor Freights were out of stock. Little concerned about the drive wheel belt pulley. Had water get behind belt and rusted the bottom side behind the belt. Looks little better after hitting it with a wire wheel. Then almost didn't get the adapter plate off the motor. Will need to cut a new one. Plus might be different for the Predator.
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Sorry to here there were a few more things that where unexpected. Sounds like your getting after it. Hopefully that motor that your getting doesn't give you any trouble. Keep after it 👍👍👍
must have set in the wet and water for a while. not sure how it or what got on the air cleaner. i hope you still make out with a good deal.
I wouldn't give up on that motor just yet. Unless the cylinders are full of rust, you should be able to free it up. I would first pull the drain plug and see if there is water in the block. If there is a lot, it will likely be clear and will be under the oil. Get the water out and put the plug back in with some clean some clean oil. With it being an overhead valve design, it likely has stuck valves. I would purchase a quart or two of Marvel Mystery oil and fill the spark plug holes full and remove the valve covers and put as much into the top of the head as it will hold. Then let it sit for a while. Take a pipe wrench or a large pair of channel locks and gently work the crankshaft back and forth if it will move. It might work its way free. Should that be the case, you will need to keep working it back and forth to get the valves to free up and close. It may require removing the heads to be able to work them back and forth individually. If nothing else it might buy you some time while waiting for the new motor.
Quote from: Gere Flewelling on June 13, 2020, 06:08:47 AM
I wouldn't give up on that motor just yet. Unless the cylinders are full of rust, you should be able to free it up. I would first pull the drain plug and see if there is water in the block. If there is a lot, it will likely be clear and will be under the oil. Get the water out and put the plug back in with some clean some clean oil. With it being an overhead valve design, it likely has stuck valves. I would purchase a quart or two of Marvel Mystery oil and fill the spark plug holes full and remove the valve covers and put as much into the top of the head as it will hold. Then let it sit for a while. Take a pipe wrench or a large pair of channel locks and gently work the crankshaft back and forth if it will move. It might work its way free. Should that be the case, you will need to keep working it back and forth to get the valves to free up and close. It may require removing the heads to be able to work them back and forth individually. If nothing else it might buy you some time while waiting for the new motor.
I agree. I definitely would give it a go 👍👍
Pulled the spark plugs stuck a camera down spark plug hole. One cylinder looks new. The other one looks rusted. Pulled valve covers and everything looked new.
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I as gonna say to pull plugs and dump some oil in the cylinders as well.. it is has super low hours it may be worth a try.
Fixed the carriage. Made new brackets for the rollers. Aligned them to track. Welded a crossmember and then moved to mill. Then welded them to the mill. Long day.
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Your going to be right in the conversation of the guys doing a total sawmill build 😂. Looks like your doing good👍. Update with the motor?
thats great ! you will be ready to go in no time!
Quote from: Durf700 on June 14, 2020, 08:09:30 PM
thats great ! you will be ready to go in no time!
Motor update
Been spraying cylinders with Kano AeroKroil all weekend. This morning I got the crank shaft to turn 3/4 full turn. I could not move it yesterday. It sounds really bad. Gritty grinding noise. I turn it back and forward and goes further each time. Let it sit a few more days.
Sounds promising.....don't rush it. Banjo
I am not a mechanic, but if you are, might even consider new rings and a bit of honing.
any updates on this refurbish job?
Got the Harbor Freight motor installed and running. Need to setup the track so I can align the blade to the track. New belts, fuel line, guide bearings and battery.
The old motor is brand new inside. The grinding was not inside. I pulled the heads and cylinder are in great shape. Drained the oil and inside of plug was in great shape. The outside of motor is rusty. The fan blades were full of mouse packings. Coils need replaced plus a few other parts.
The blade wheels are still parallel. Will need to spend a day making sure the tracking of the blade is correct and adjust the roller guides. The blade spins and tracks but I did not have enough tension on the blade for it to track correctly.
New motor running. (https://youtu.be/crzAOL2vgK4)
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Sam, Did TK tell you how to set up the band? Baker tells you to check band is matched to the bed. Straight edge on bed and straight edge on band (weld on top).
Did the holes match up to the Predator motor? Let us know how that works out.
looks like a back up motor or one to sell and offset costs.
TK manual does say check the blade alignment while on the tracks. Good instruction on what to do in pdf of manual manual. Also watched a bunch of cooks saw videos. Figured take my time and get the blade and guide roller perfect. Did order new cooks guide rollers. Will need to weld them onto the mill when they get here.
Had to use a shaft spacer for the predator motor. 1 inch shaft to 1-1/8 shaft adapter. The mounting holes lined up just right for mounting the engine.
thats great progress! update us on the next stage!
Maybe it should go without saying, but also check your motor alignment with your drive pulley, I have in my hasty to get something going got it "looking pretty good" and not bothering to put a straight edge across them. That makes for excessive vibrations and belts coming off and prematurely wearing out. Hope it goes well with you. Banjo
The mill is cutting wood.
First log. Nice white oak. Just a little iron in the log. But missed it.
https://youtu.be/5c2VUtusq_o (https://youtu.be/5c2VUtusq_o)
Finishing the last side of the cant.
https://youtu.be/k9wzJs1LzWs (https://youtu.be/k9wzJs1LzWs)
Looks like you got a winner there, and a great deal to boot. Banjo
YEA!!!! 8)
Good for you! You must feel really good about this project now.
great job on getting that mill running and cutting again! i'm sure the mill is much happier also!
Great job!!! You might want to check the tension on your drive belt. Maybe it's just the camera but it sure seemed to have a lot of fluctuation in it and that will negatively impact band speed, which will affect cut quality. It's a regular maintenance thing, usually in the 50 hour range.
Good for you!!
TK has a tool for proper drive belt tension. It does that on the slack side of the drive belt, and some is normal. it is a spring loaded telescoping force meter. the belts are heavy duty double wide.
Don't forget this this is a 2007 model of the 1220. It does not have a spring loaded belt tensioner. Just the position of the motor. I do think it could use a tensioner. The belt is just a single BX88 belt. 91 inches long. From watching youtube I see the newer mills do have a belt tensioner. I will have to check with Timberking about tensioner. I am using a new belt. Plus I changed out all the fuel hose.
I have noticed with my mill, the more the drive belt is flopping around, the rougher the cut. When the tension is adjusted tight enough so the belt isn't flopping about, I get a much smoother cut (finish). With the drive belt flopping, it's like you have a few teeth with too much set. With your drive belt flopping around, your band speed is fluctuating to the tune of the belt flopping about, which would lead to the blade tension fluctuating in the cut, which would also lead to quicker blade fatigue and failure. A smooth running drive belt means a smooth running band speed which gives a smoother cut.
Well it has been two years now since pulling out the sawmill. I just made another upgrade. Only took me 18 months since getting the parts to put it together. I have added hydraulic power to the 1220 mill. Tired of push and cranking the mill. Now just need a better way to turn the logs. I have plenty of equipment just not sure which one to use. Problems. Here is a video of the upgrade. Few more tweaks and I think I have it. Next upgrade is to switch motors. A friend gave me a 20hp honda to use if I milled some of his logs. Predator motor is underpowered.
https://youtu.be/sP12MV-2xHw (https://youtu.be/sP12MV-2xHw)
How do you like that harbor freight engine?
Looks very good and thanks for the update. 8)
Quote from: Daburner87 on May 09, 2023, 12:01:54 AM
How do you like that harbor freight engine?
It runs good but I need more power. If you push it to hard you get smoke from blow by. I think. Starts fine. Got a good deal on it with coupon. The price was right. Running it more now I am not pushing the mill back and forth. I used to shut it down after every cut.
I enjoyed reading through this thread. Thanks to Sam for the update!!!!