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I just got home with a 2011 LT35HD - I need your counsel on how to succeed.

Started by MikeySP, January 30, 2019, 05:14:30 PM

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Southside

Watch your outlet chute, the fingers are going to catch the bark and sawdust will begin to pack in the wheel covers.  When you don't see it coming out of the chute, stop and clear off the fingers.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

doc henderson

for uber rustic, you can leave the lumber tapered as it is in the tree and alternate orientation end for end as you hang it.  or (less rustic) develop a U shaped cant.  2 parallel sides that will be the faces and backs of the siding.  the "bottom" of the U is the top edge of the siding. the open top of the U is the live edge. when you cut this, (bottom of the U)you can let the live edge rest flat on the bed of the mill, and cut parallel to the live edge.  you can now orient the "bottom" of the U to the hooks and now just flat saw through the cant.  you can try to make a uniform size, say 8 inch siding with a 2 inch over lap for a 6 inch reveal.  If you have a starter strip at the bottom, maybe 2 inches wide, you do not need to rotate the cant to make tapered siding boards.  It is hung like concrete siding boards.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

MikeySP

Thanks gents!

I guess the previous owner of my LT35 must have been putout by the safety fingers in the shoot, because they do not exist on my sawmill. 

The owner of the logs wants both edges live, so I assume he intends to appose the ends. Not sure how he plans to deal with whitewood... maybe a water reppellent such as would be used on pine or some other lap siding. 

-Mike

doc henderson

the white wood is not as resistant as the heartwood, but if not in contact with soil and water it should do fine.  a clear water proof could be sprayed  with a garden sprayer much like a deck 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

MikeySP

Excellent. Thanks Doc.

Forgot to ask, if you were selecting between 4 and 10 degree blades, which would you use?

I have lots of 10, so I would like to use them, but not if they will be problematic.

I have 1 Turbo 7, but I am waiting to use it on a specific log for testing it out, so I won't use it on these cedars. 

WV Sawmiller

   My limited experience with cedar is it is very soft and you should be fine with the 10 degree blades. I personally am phasing out my 7 & 10 degree blades and replacing them over time with 4 degree which, for me, works with everything.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2011 4WD F150 Ford Lariat PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Stihl 440 Chainsaw, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once

doc henderson

I use 7 degree on most everything.  if you got 10 s to spare give them a try.  look to see if there is pitch at the junction of heartwood and the sap wood, if so I would use a lube/soap or check you  blade freq. to see if you need it or if you need more in terms of volume or concentration.  there is silica in the bark and wood so follow blade sharpness.  I could saw it all day long.  caution with folks with allergy (usually woodworkers who have been around it for years and developed sensitivity) or asthma inhaling the dust.  I love the grain and like an ink blot test, can see animals and other characters in the grain patterns.   @Southside   and @YellowHammer  always see chickens... not sure what that means!   8)  remember to share some pics.  Your job is easier if you have a client and they are directing how they want the wood sawed.  and that responsibility is off your back.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

btulloh

I've used10's on ERC with no problem. You may want slow down a bit when approaching knots or nubs to avoid a wave. Same for insulators and fence wire.
HM126

Magicman

For me, 10° blades were near prefect for sawing ERC, but I have phased them all out and only use Turbo 7° blades now.  I do still have some 4° blades, but after the success that I had with T7's on White and Post Oak, I doubt that the 4's will ever be used.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

YellowHammer

Sawing cedar is fine, easy as can be.  Lots of inclusions and wane, though, so high grade yield can be lower than expected.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

woodweasel


Banjo picker

Quote from: MikeySP on May 16, 2019, 12:24:36 PM
Thanks gents!

I guess the previous owner of my LT35 must have been putout by the safety fingers in the shoot, because they do not exist on my sawmill.


Make sure no one ever gets around that exit area. I have had them come out the shoot and even had the fingers as they are being called bent by a blade trying to get out.

  I know you have a different mill, but the resusts can be the same.  Not a good place to be even with the safety fingers installed.  Banjo
Never explain, your friends don't need it, and your enemies won't believe you any way.

Magicman

 

 
Absolutely, I only have one finger missing and they can/will still exit the sawdust chute.


 
Another.



And this one decided to make it's own exit hole!   :o


 
Glad that no one was standing there.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

doc henderson

i always keep people from that side of the mill, but a picture is worth a thousand words.  @Magicman glad to hear you only have "1 finger missing" !   :o   :D :D :D
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Magicman

Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

WDH

Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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