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Sawmill Belts

Started by 250quality, July 02, 2011, 08:49:00 PM

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250quality

My mill won't disengage when I release the idler pulley. I put new belts on it this year as I thought maybe the old one went hard and this was not the case.
There is lots of slack but the band wheels keep right on turning when disengaged.
WD 40 seemed to work for a while but there grabbing all the time again now.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thanks

Larry

Welcome 250q. :)

Wild guess about your problem.  Your not using a segmented belt like say a BX belt are you?  I ask because those belts are not for use in clutching applications and will grab.  There is also another belt that will grab but its not common and I can't remember the nomenclature.

Just a shot in the dark.  Might help if we knew the type of mill.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

250quality

Thanks Larry but its a regular old Gates belt.
Could be the compound its made of is too hard?
Wonder if belt dressing would do anything or would it grab more?

250quality

Sorry but I gapped it. My mill is home built with a MWN diesel about 28hp running duel belts.
Somebody was talking about some sort of pins around the drive pulley?
Anybody got a pic for an example.
Sounds like the cure to me.

bandmiller2

250,what you need to do is make some pins.Engine off, enguage the clutch put one or two pins/bolts so they clear the engauged belts you can try it temporary with vice grips.Usally pins are placed between the two pulleys.What they do is keep the belt loose around the driving pulley when disengauged. sorry no pictures. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

Magicman

I can't help you with your belt question 250quality, but I can Welcome you to the Forestry Forum.   :)
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250quality


Thank you to all and what a great site.
Will try some pins today.

250quality

Pins installed with some sucess. Atleast I can stop the blade now but it will not stop on its own.
I think I will try to design some sort of brake system. Seems to want to free wheel forever.
Good ol centrifical force.

ladylake

Try moving those pins around to a spot where they hold the belt away from the drive pulley, I think mine are about 4" away from the drive pulley and maybe 1" away from the belt when it's tight.  With v belts and tension mine doesn't coast too long without a brake.   steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

250quality

2 more pins and works like a dream!
Thanks for the input.

Buck

Just another lil tidbit I've learned...I used to use diesel to cut the pitch off my blade when sawing pine. I found that my wheel belts failed sooner because they softened. I would think the same would be true with wd40 in place of belt dressing. And welcome to the forum if I left that out.
Respect is earned. Honesty is appreciated. Trust is gained. Loyalty is returned.

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pyrocasto

I put a brake on mine just so it would stop quick and stay stopped. Just pinches with a spring and stops in about 3 seconds.


shelbycharger400

note on belts....  use standard automotive belts ...  industrial belts  are junk.   automotive ones are designed for rough service and high variable in speed

250quality

Thanks Buck. I run straight diesel with a one drip per second on a felt pad on my blade. Never seems to be any on the belts on the band wheels and I did just put new ones on a month ago or so.
Diesel seems to work better for me even in the oak. I noticed a big difference in my blade life.
Just too hot here to get back to milling right now.

250quality

Any pics of your brake system Pyrocastor? Mine is not workin out so well.
Thanks

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