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looking for a better way to cup out a log

Started by yukon cornelius, June 02, 2014, 10:58:06 AM

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yukon cornelius

I build a lot of yard swing cedar log frames and struggle with the legs. where the leg logs meet the the top rail log cup out the leg to fit the rail. I am looking for a better tool to do it. I am very detail oriented an like a good fit. I use a saw now and make several slice cuts then chisel it out and belt sand to a final finish. this is pretty labor intensive and dosent always leave a great fit. im thinking about a round drum knife setup like on a planer or edger and mount on a chop saw type setup where angles can de adjusted. I don't know when I would be able to make such a contraption but I need to do something soon.

anyone have any ideas or any tools that fit the application?

thanks,
larry
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Jason_AliceMae Farms

Larry, I think I am following what you are describing but not sure so feel free to ignore me if I am way off  :)

What about a forstner bit to drill out the mortise?  One the same size diameter as your tenon cutters.  Could use it on a drill press to help get the angles you need. They also make some countersink cutters as well to give different fits.

Is that what you were talking about?  Sorry, I am just more of a visual person.


Watching over 90 acres of the earth with 50 acres being forest.

Someday I would like to be able to say that I left thes 90 acres healthier than when I started watching over them.

21incher

I have used a hole saw to get rounds to intersect if that is what you are talking about. They cut about 2 inches deep then knock out the slug and drill deeper. They are readily avail up to 6 inches.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

redprospector

They make an attachment for a 4 1/2" angle grinder that has a chainsaw chain on the wheel. They do pretty good at coping out the ends of small logs. They're not too expensive (bout $30 or so), but will bite you hard if you take your mind off of it.
If you choose to use one of these, make sure to use a grinder with a trigger switch, and not one with an on/off switch that will stay on by itself.
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

yukon cornelius

 

  

  

  

 

this is what im dealing with. sorry for the poor description.

I have seen the chainsaw grinder attachment but it scares the bejesus out of me. im dangerous enough without the spinning flying wheel of death!! :o I really did consider that when I first started looking at tools for this.

I made one stand today and I have 2 more to make.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

ozarkgem

How about a bandsaw? are you talking about the joint on the bottom back of the swing?
Maybe a log wizard. I have one. When I come your way I will try and remember to bring it with me.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

ozarkgem

just saw the pics  log wizard would work.
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

gfadvm

I agree that those chainsaw wheels are very dangerous. Kutzall (not positive on the spelling) makes discs for hand grinders that are much safer and the extra coarse ones work quickly. These are what most chair makers use to rough sculpt their seats. There are some other brands of similar discs.

Larry

Quote from: redprospector on June 02, 2014, 09:03:23 PM
They make an attachment for a 4 1/2" angle grinder that has a chainsaw chain on the wheel. They do pretty good at coping out the ends of small logs. They're not too expensive (bout $30 or so), but will bite you hard if you take your mind off of it.
If you choose to use one of these, make sure to use a grinder with a trigger switch, and not one with an on/off switch that will stay on by itself.

I was thinking the same thing.  Before you take that leap you might just try a 36 grit sandpaper disc.  I cope moulding with one all the time.  The disc might load up too fast with cedar sapwood.

I agree with the others about the danger of using one of the chainsaw wheels.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

yukon cornelius

log wizard looks like it would work! I like it!
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Ianab

Rather than free handing the cut with the log wizard, what about bolting the angle grinder to a jig on rails, or something like a drill press? Clamp log in place, start grinder, pull lever to move the cutter past the log. Shower of wood chips and it's done. Safe because everything is clamped or bolted down.

Be a bit of work to make up the jig, but after that you could carve up logs by the dozen.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

redprospector

Quote from: Ianab on June 02, 2014, 11:23:48 PM
Rather than free handing the cut with the log wizard, what about bolting the angle grinder to a jig on rails, or something like a drill press? Clamp log in place, start grinder, pull lever to move the cutter past the log. Shower of wood chips and it's done. Safe because everything is clamped or bolted down.

Be a bit of work to make up the jig, but after that you could carve up logs by the dozen.

Ian
Now there's the ticket. The key to production in the wood shop is being able to reproduce results in an accurate, timely, and safe fashion. Jigs are the answer to accomplishing that.
As far as the wheel being dangerous...it is. But so is a hand held circular saw, and a table saw, and crossing the hiway. All of these require a good understanding of the tool, it's capabilities, and your undivided attention. Just like the "chainsaw wheel". But the jig to make it a "semi-automatic" operation would be the most productive in my opinion.
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

Lud

Having used the "chainsaw disc" for carving and seats for a few decades I understand their reputation as they are a bit scary and you need to "lock and load" your grip and it pays to have goggles and an apron on!

None the less, seeing what you're trying to achieve, I'd mount the handheld grinder's butt end, with clamps  , into a piece of heavy wall 3" to 4" plastic pipe that I mounted overhead so the disc could pendulum side to side rigidly while throwing the chips away from you.

You couldn't get it all at once but if you could have the disc off, set the height, turn it on,  swing it through the log that is clamped solidly, shut it off, lower the unit,etc.   It suggests a foot switch!  With your hand on the handle of the grinder to control feed and the log in a "V" clamp you could  make that curved cut repeatedly.
....
One disclaimer.......I come up with W.A.S.  all the time! 8)Good Luck!  8) 
Simplicity mill, Ford 1957 Golden Jubilee 841 Powermaster, 40x60 bankbarn, left-handed

Tom L

I would try to mount that on the bed of a drill press, up against an angle stop and clamp the wood to the angle stop  put a hole saw in the drill press the same diameter as the log you need to mount too.

make another angle support to just lightly touch the opposite side of the hole saw above the teeth , so you miss the set on the teeth,  this way it will not want to wander away from the cut.

Larry

A machine from the past called a spindle carver would do that cut in a few seconds.  They are seldom talked about or seen, but there are still a few craftsman that use them.  I've seen a ball and claw carved on the bottom of a table leg in less than a minute.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Ianab

Quote from: Larry on June 03, 2014, 03:47:45 PM
A machine from the past called a spindle carver would do that cut in a few seconds.  They are seldom talked about or seen, but there are still a few craftsman that use them.  I've seen a ball and claw carved on the bottom of a table leg in less than a minute.

Is it just me, or is there a good reason you don't see them much any more?  :o

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EaEZRQrg9s0

That cutter sticking out like that, spinning 18.000 rpm, with no guards, guides, table etc. And folks are worried about the chainsaw angle grinder....

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Alcranb

Bet one could make quick work of trimming their fingernails with that machine too.  :o
"Twenty years from now, you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do.  So throw off the bowlines.  Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.  (Mark Twain)

yukon cornelius

and removing gorilla glue from hands!!  :o it would work amazing though for my needs.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

redprospector

Quote from: yukon cornelius on June 03, 2014, 07:47:00 PM
and removing gorilla glue from hands!!  :o it would work amazing though for my needs.

And you said the chainsaw wheel scares you???  :D
Seriously though, when I had my shop going I had some little devices that were sold by Woodmizer in the early 90's. They were known as the "Duplicarver". I had a contract for several hundred mirrors I made with a carved frame, and the Duplicarver delivered. I had 3 of them at one time, I've still got at least one in storage. Mine had a Black & Decker router on one side, and a stylus on the other. It would copy something you hand carved exactly. Even gun stocks.
http://youtu.be/x9ECsmFOT1o
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

Magicman

With that music, it was almost elegant.   ;D
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

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yukon cornelius

holy crap! that's exactly what I explained to my wife what I wanted to build! I could get the cut to exactly match the log I want to meet up against! that's how I LIKE to make things. im pretty detail oriented. my LIKE to make things exact don't always match my ability to get it done. :D
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

Ianab

Well actually you would want a "reverse" of the other log, so they would fit together.

But the same sort of idea. Instead of the guide and the cutter moving together, they would be on the opposite ends of a rocker arm. Where the guide came up, the cutter goes down...

But yeah, it has potential , and is  pretty safe because everything is clamped down.

Ian
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

yukon cornelius

ianab that's what I was going for. it would be a teeter totter type where when it went up over the log it would dip down equally into the other log. the cupped log would mount at a 90 angle to my other log also. but that's the same idea  had to match the log. one day in the future I will start this project.
It seems I am a coarse thread bolt in a world of fine threaded nuts!

Making a living with a manual mill can be done!

ozarkgem

Here is a notch I made with the log wizard. I only tried 3 times so a little more practice and it would work very well. I need to sharpen the blades and maybe play with the depth settings since I set it up for debarking. I noticed it wanted to split the back side of the cut so when I cut both ways it worked pretty good. Took about 30 seconds. You could fine tune the notch with a hand grinder and flap wheel. Trying to make a 3 axes gig would get complecated unless you were doing thousands probably not worth the time. Then CNC would be the way to go.

  

  

 
Mighty Mite Band Mill, Case Backhoe, 763 Bobcat, Ford 3400 w/FEL , 1962 Ford 4000, Int dump truck, Clark forklift, lots of trailers. Stihl 046 Magnum, 029 Stihl. complete machine shop to keep everything going.

drobertson

A thought that came to mind was to get a set of holes saws with a variety of diameters that match your logs, clamp a waste block to the side of the log so that the hole saw is in wood, making a radius cut 1/2 the diameter in the log you need it in.  please let us know how its going, 
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

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