not sure if that's correct techniques or safe for that matter but I found it useful for
cutting short pieces of wood which I cannot otherwise support somehow.
So I start slowly and allow the wood roll back and stick to the chainsaw spike and then
I am able to add some downwards force to cut it through. Is it the spike for?
I believe the common term is "dogs" (or "dawgs"), short for "felling dogs".
If it works for you, then I guess that's what it's for. Be careful. A small log might do unpredictable things as it starts to roll. It can get bound up on the chain, or thrown.
What they are intended for is to give you something to dig into the log and use as a pivot point to "pry" the cutting bar down into the wood. I've heard a couple people around here sarcastically refer to them as a "dull chain override". (Usually referring to someone too lazy or in too much of a rush to sharpen or replace a dull chain.) On smaller saws and in smaller wood, I find them useless. I file them down or replace them with a flat bar (available as an option for some saws, came as an uninstalled extra with one of my saws). If the chain is dull enough that I feel the need to pry with the dogs when using a 16 or 18" bar, then I've waited WAY too long to sharpen.
Someone who is cutting in competition, or cutting large wood would probably disagree with me. I'm sure they can be fairly handy when trying to get the far end of a 24"+ bar down through a log.
You may want to register as a limb donor. ;) Cutting anything that is unsupported is usually not a good (safe) idea.
Yes, not safe. I've scars to attest to that.
Also called "felling dogs" they are very useful for making horizontal cuts (felling trees) especially with bigger wood, where a repeating pivoting action is much easier than pulling the saw sideways.
OK, this is one reason why. Upper right arm, Homelite XL 12.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20011/2410/DSCN0568.JPG)
That's a very white arm. You must be another one that wears long sleve shirts in the summer too. :D :D
Actually, I only wear T shirts when sawing. The one that I was wearing that day was shredded. I'm right handed, and that was a right shoulder. That was a kickback and XL 12's don't have a chain brake. Took about a dozen stitches.
wow MM that must have been a fun time! I have had close calls, but have been well watched over by guardian angel(s) or something. The closest kickback I had was when I had a Johnny Reds model 70E, and was cutting about eye level, the chain kicked back and took off my ball cap, the chain brake stopped the chain right as it hit my bill. Your deal must have been a while ago, with no chain brake, and all. I have pitched any saw I used to have in the trash if it did not have a working chain brake. Won't do without it anymore. I am sure there are a bunch of weekend woodcutters out there that may still be operating an old saw, my .02 cents worth to any reading this, get a working brake on it or get a new saw.....not worth the chance. A running saw chain, even a dull one can chew through flesh quicker than you can spit.
Yup, I have retired both of those XL 12's. That little Homelite 18", 46cc Pro that I just bought for a "Camp" saw replaced them. If I'm cutting firewood or doing any other heavier work, the Stihls will be called into service.