The Forestry Forum
General Forestry => Firewood and Wood Heating => Topic started by: Bill Gaiche on January 31, 2013, 10:01:46 PM
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It gets a little to cold down in the shop this time of year to do much of anything. So today I decided it was time to make a change and built me a new stove. Tomorrow I will put in service to see how it does. bg
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The pic didn't show up, Bill. ???
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How about now. I got the cart before the horse when I posted it. bg
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Mo' betta. That's a DanG nice stove. You'll prolly hafta open a winder now.
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Looks great, and clean workmanship.
Really neat artsy graphics above the loading door. ;D
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Good job on the welding. ;D May want to put a few pieces of 3/8 by whatever long on that door so it don't warp so bad.
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I am very impressed and humbled. I have no knowledge or skill to build that. Nice job.
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You are probably right about adding some metal across the door. I started to but thought I would try it first and if needed I will add some. Thanks for the comments guys. bg
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Beenthere, a little welders helper (paint) will cover up all that messy stuff. bg
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I like the grain in the steel. ;D
Good job. Get it smoking. Lots of cold days left. smiley_thumbsup
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Nice job, It will be nice to get some heat in the workshop.
I hate to break it to ya but that stick is never going to hold up the grate once you start a fire in there! ;D
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Nicely done Bill, nothing like some good ole wood heat in a shop for sure, I have built many wood stoves back in my early days, they were a popular design, the only real difference was on the door opening, we went a bit shorter top to bottom, this allowed room for a diverter shelf above the door, this helps keep the smoke from flowing out to quick, hopefully you won't have this problem, david
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A piece of metal will fix it up just fine.
Bill I hate to disagree with you,but paint won't make my welding look better. :D I do Ok.I just never had someone really teach me and seems like I'm always working with metal that is rusted too.
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Nice big door but you may want to put a flapper inside over the top .Reason being when you stoke it it will blow a lot of smoke back at you .
I had to do that on a down drafter I built years ago but after the fact it was already in the house .
That thing has enough surface area it should put out the heat .
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I was just thinking,one of my friends has an All Nighter with fire bricks along the sides and back. Has a peice of angle iron that the bricks go under. I helped him replace them many years ago.
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I have a Lopi glass front that also has bricked sides .
When I built the down drafter I bricked the bottom of the Vee where the fire goes through the coals and the other side was the angled grates the air goes through .The brick side theoretically would have been the hottest .The pot licker still got hot enough to made the sides red if you didn't watch it .I think if I would have stood one layer of brick along the side above the vee that probabley would have worked better .My oh my did that stove put out the heat .
Now on that door being on the draft side away from the flue I'm not so sure it would warp or not .
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Nice stove Bill. Better than factory.
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Beauty! What kind of welder you use?
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Looks nice but a couple of things I would do, weld some 1" flat stock around inside the door opening to help keep it straight and then do the same with the door so that it fits inside of the opening.
Then maybe you could use some rope gasket to help seal it off.
Let us know how it works.
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Today Built a fire in it. Sure enough it smokes out the front top. Added 6 1/2" of metal across the top to make the opening smaller. It did help a lot but still have a little. When it gets some ashes to hold some hot coals I believe it will help.The opening is 19" wide x 10" tall now. I don't plan on using any brick in it because it is just for the shop. Brick may help but don't know how much. I am not sure what a smoke deflector would look like. Maybe you could help me out on that. You were right about the wood that I used to hold up the grates didn't last long. Good thing I put some weld on them. I use a Hobart 200amp gas welder. Plan on getting some kind of small fan to put above and behind the stove to push some of that heat around. The door did warp a little but the latch pulls it shut just fine. Thanks for your input, it always helps for the experienced to share there wealth of knowledge. bg
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bill, I don't think you need the grates, just my opinion. My main concern was the deflector above the door. the seals are a good idea but not that critical if you have a good draw. the heat can cause some warp on the doors but a controlled burn can reduce this. Angle Iron tacked in to fit bricks would help but here again, not completely necessary. As far as I can tell, I would add a 1/8" deflector just above your door opening, going in about 4" or so at a slight angle up, for the length of the opening. Tack it in and try it. It can always be removed if not welded to much pretty easily, I think you will like it and leave it. Or just add some stock to the opening, reducing the opening, keeping the diverter, and try that, air, and smoke moves around and tries to find the least resistance. This might be what is happening. All said, warm is better than cold in the winter, aye? david
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Might want to weld some angle clips around the inner sides, to hold 1" firebrick. High combustion temps -> more complete combustion, and much longer lasting steel.
In a similar vein, preheated air discharge ABOVE the fire, like on an angled baffle, would turn much more of the fuel into heat output. Below the fire, not so much.
Purely trying to be helpful. MIG?
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When I built my stove, I stood 1 1/2" firebrick up around the perimeter of the box. Then I placed 2-3 in" of sand in the bottom, followed by 1 1/2" fire brick floor on top of sand. I got lucky because the bricks really didn't need cut much. Been using this stove for years, first as my camp, and now my home. The bricks never moved or cracked, even without retainers or anything to hold them.
That's an awesome looking stove by the way 8)
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I've been in a few garages where a box fan was used to move the heat. Might be $15 now? May have a hard time finding one this time of year. They will move some air.We had a green house for a few years and used them to move the air around. They was cheap. We brought 4 of them. I told the wife they won't last long. Once we turned them on they were on until we closed. Just about on from Feb to June. We still have them! We used them for 3 seasons.Looks like you used all new metal. Do you know about how much it all cost? I might build one too. ;D When I get to it. ::)
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Bill I wanted to post a pic last night of my deflector but I had a hot fire going at the time, here is a shot of how mine is, inside and above the opening, the length of the door opening.
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If I remember corectly when I was a kid our heatrola in the living room had a swinging flap covering about a third of the door opeming. Allowed bigger wood to go in and still have the baffel.
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A lot of older stoves had as winged flap .It also helps if the draft is as low as the bottom of the fire rather than over it .I mean it will still draw but just blows more smoke when the door is opened .
Grates won't do you much good burning wood unless you have an ash pan .Besides once you get about an inch or so of ash in the bottom it acts like an insulator .
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drobertson, I cut a 6"x3/16" the width of the stove. Attached it to the front lip and angled it down toward the back of the box yesterday morning. Still have a plenty of room to load the wood. I removed the 6" metal that I had installed earlier to the top front to make the opening smaller. I believe this deflector will make it work better now. The reason I installed the grates was , when building a new fire it seems to help keep the wood up some off the bottom so it can get better air to the fire. If the deflector isn't enough I can add a few more inches to it and have it hinged so I can swing it up out of the way while loading with wood. The air vents in the front lets the air hit pretty much toward the middle and down of the fire. If needed I can add a little deflector to the inside of the door to flow the air down toward the bottom. It worked pretty good yesterday. Just need to burn more wood and see how it goes. Thanks again for your help. bg