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Re: Wood Splitters

Started by AtLast, February 28, 2004, 11:47:24 AM

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ADfields

Looking at cycle time is a very misleading way to buy a splitter.   You don't use the hole cycle most of the time, in or out with a hydraulic splitter.   I have had 4 splitters over the years and find the vertical is way WAY less work then lifting every chunk up off the ground to a horizontal.   With my vertical I plant my but on a round in front of it with a stout garden rake to drag it to me and go to town, little to no lifting and I can go solid all day long.   Also the hydraulics I have had would all split even cottonwood that the only other way to split is with a chain saw, they go "BANG" all at once. ;D   I like Franks lazy susan thing and may add one to my splitter this year.
Andy

Captain

I have a home built unit by my wife's grandfather about 20 years ago.  It has a 5hp briggs, and a very slow cycle time.  The hydraulic piston is in great shape and is about 2 1/2 inches.  I am thinking of a rebuild including a 24hp wisconsin engine I have, and would like to size a pump and tank appropriately for faster cycle times.  Anybody know of a website for information on these selections? :P

Captain

Stan

I have one of the Northern Supply 20 ton units and I agee it is slow, but so am I. I've got some 16" diameter gum that I can't split. Hydraulic oil sprays out of nearly every fitting and the ram stops.  :-/  Y'all are welcome to bring your mauls, or flywheels or whatever and we'll have a splitter's contest.  8)
I may have been born on a turnip truck, but I didn't just fall off.

RSteiner

Captian,

You might try northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company when they were Northern Hydraulic they carried a pretty extensive line of wood splitter components.  The one feature which makes a hydraulic splitter faster is the GPM of the pump.  More oil flow to the cylinder the faster it moves the pistion.

Most hydraulic splitters have 2-stage pumps.  The first stage of the pump moves a high volume of oil, high GPM at a low pressure.  The second stage kicks in when the pressure in the output line of the pump reaches a certain point.

The second stage of the pump produces high pressures at a low volume or GPM.  There are many components in the hydraulic circuit which can control the volume of fluid flow.  Hydraulic lines that are small diameter inside will affect flows as well as the directional control valve size, its internal ports in the spool section.

Just make sure you use a correctly sized pressure relief valve in the system, fine high pressure hydraulic streams can penetrate the skin especially your eyes. :o

Randy
Randy

Corley5

AtLast,  Where'd you get your multi split wedge?
Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

rebocardo

> I've got some 16" diameter gum

I had some 26 inch chunks. Finally I gave up trying to split the sweet gum by hand. I flipped the rounds up on their sides and ripped with the grain, so I was ripping with the trunk length. Went a lot faster after that. Plus, I have the only firewood that is squared on all sides :-D

burlman

I am going into my 18th year with my super split. I love this machine, I used to do 100 cords a year, in my younger less sore back days. I also rented it out on weekends to neighbors. One group split 10 tandem dumptruck loads in one day. I  upgraded the moter to a 5hp. honda with dual belts, I also raised the height 6 inches so your not so hunched over, I also added a table to the front to catch split blocks insted of having to pick up the pieces again. The little plastic knob to engage the drive is next to useless, I put a good T-handle on it to get a good grip, you have to pull up quick to engage the rack and pinion, or you will grind the gears and cause premature wear on the pinion. Yes tough wood will take a few consecutive hits to get through. The blade is very fine, much like an axe, so you are really shearing the wood not forceing it apart like a wide wedge like a hydraulic unit. You'll have to decide on the majority size and species you'll be splitting to decide. Most elms and some twisty yellow birch, can give some grief because they are so stringy grain. I find two people works the best. We park the splitter between 2 piles of wood one person feeds one  of his blocks the other clears the split pieces into the truck, then we switch positions on the next block.usually we can split 2 cords and pile it on the truck in a half hour.

Captain

Thanks RSteiner, I picked up the Northern Catalog last night and found a formula for psi/GPM/HP that should get me in the ballpark.  Now to decide wether to rebuild the Wisconsin or buy a new engine.  

I also have to check the GPM of my current pump.

Captain

ADfields

Captain, go to this link, click on "Free Calculators" and you will find some great things at your fingertips. ;)   They are to hydraulics what this sight is to wood.
Andy

http://www.baumhydraulics.com/default.htm

Button

 I wish I had a digital camera. I begged a buddy to let me have the splitter he and his father made in the 70's during the oil embargo. This baby is powered by a 4 cyl willy's engine,2 stage forklift pump, garbage truck packer piston, 4 way split, hydraulic crane log lift, all mounted on an massive I beam. The tongue weight you don't dare even try to lift. His father worked at a shipyard at the time and is truly a work of heavy metal art. They haven't burned wood in years so they finally let me have it on the condition I would never sell it. Right now I am saving to replace all the hyd hoses. I dought it will be as efficient as a new one but I would love to try a crack at that gum.
Peter
66 timberjack 230
394xp
365 special x 2
woodmaster
the rabbits may outrun the skidder but the saw will catch up to the tree

Joe W

Back when I was searching for a used mill I came accross a splitter like I had never seen before.This splitter was 3 point hitch with a driveshaft that was screw shaped. Maybe 6" diam. going down to a point.This seems like a really simple and low maintance attachment. Have any of you folks seen one of these? Or know where I can get any info.Thanks, Joe W

beenthere

JoeW. Screw splitters seemed somewhat popular 10-15 years ago, and touted as boltable to the rear wheel of a car, truck, or garden tractor. Get on your knees to split. It would screw into the block of wood, and if you keep the block from spinning around and knocking you over, they would split okay.  There was a stub (rest) that was supposed to keep the block from spinning, if the screw was started into the block near one end. If you hit into the middle, you suddenly had your hands full of a spinning block of firewood spinning wildly around.  Found on called the "Stickler" (also think one is named the "Unicorn") at:  http://www.thestickler.com/
I remember people using them that would wish there was a way to reverse the screw to get the partially split block off the screw. Apparently some species didn't split cleanly enough, which would be expected.
Button:  I had a friend with access to a splitter similar to the one you speak of, made with 4 cyl continental engine, big pump, and a huge ram from a garbage truck. The splitter wedge was a 6 way, one upright, and two wings. This meant that the wood was compressed between the wedges in the center (bad design). When I saw it demonstrated, major hyd. oil leaks and wood that looked like mush was produced. Only something to talk about. Not sure what ever happened to it.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Minnesota_boy

JoeW,
I have one of the Sticlers, the screw type wood splitters that mount on the 3-point hitch.  It works pretty well in most types of wood, pretty fast and fairly comfortable as I can set it to the height I want with the 3-point and the included legs.  I've split lots of cords of wood with it.  You have to be careful with it, but then again, you want to be careful with any equipment.
I eat a high-fiber diet.  Lots of sawdust!

Frank_Pender

Careful with the wood screw units.   A 15 year old son of a friend had pant leg caught and ripped his lef off at the knee. :'(
Frank Pender

RSteiner

I had one of those screw type splitters called the Stickler.  My folks gave it to me for a birthday present at least 25 years ago.  I used it for several years with only one close call, my fault.  The only thing I had a difficut time splitting was cut to lenght firewood, 18" long pieces.

Running the splitter on the back of the pickup left the center at least 15" off the ground.  Trying to split an 18" long piece was difficult because on end had to be on something that was not going to move or turn.  Several attemps left an out of balance propeller turning on the rear of the truck.

It worked great on 6' long wood but this ment more chainsaw work cutting it to length.  It ended up sitting in the cellar and wood shed for 15 years.  Last January I offered it to anyone who was willing to pay the postage from the TractorBynet site.

I just heard this weekend from the gentleman who took me up on the offer, the splitter is once again doing it's thing now out west. 8)

As with anything mechanical you have to be careful when using them.  The chainsaw is probably one of the most dangerous devices we use but as long as your respect level is right and you pay attention chances are you will come out okay.

Rnady
Randy

lamar

If been looking for some talk on splitters and Finlay found where. Ive looked at iron oak splitters out of Ill. they are commercial units 8sec.return hyd.lift and hyd.wedge (adj.)you set as wood go thru main wedge.I think Bailie's Sells something similar for over 5000. Anybody know more about this brand? Cant decide how for to go to make the job more efficient

ADfields

If I had enough work to need a 5 grand splitter I think a processor would be in order ;)
Andy

tawilson

What would be nice is if someone made a $5000 woodsplitter that would be ready to accept components to turn it into a wood processor. I haven't seen one yet and maybe it's a stupid or impossible idea.
Tom
2017 LT40HDG35 WIDE
BMS250 and BMT250 sharpener/setter
Woodmaster 725

lamar

I read about the IRON OAK-COMMERICAL one in TIMBER LINE which mostly deals with HIGH dollar stuff but in Jan issue they had a lot of mills,planers ect. that are normal for most of us. For my own use Ive allways said I can do better with a mall and not mess with standard splitters.But now (62+) my back cant handle bending over much.
the one in timber line told we 4200 Delivered.Almost temped if I can get my son-in-law to go halves.This guy in the article is runing two, he up graded and kept the older one and says there great.Im told "your geting to old for all this stuff" I wonder who would say a think like that

lamar

PS. these wood processers start at around 30000 to over 80000.

ADfields

Processes start new around 14 grand new without a conveyor.   The trouble with them is crooked and small wood slows them way down.   If your cutting mesquite or that crooked Texas live oak I don't know if it would be worth the trouble or not but for that pine y'all have in east Texas it would be great.
Andy

lamar

I noticed that too.Most are fussy about size and crooks,ect.  I like to be able to split the nasty stuff that nobody wants to mess with.Im still in piny woods around Palestine.syp will burn your house down.I have a small saw mill to deal with pine and anything that will make a board.Thats what is nice about hardwood.Its all usable.That splitter is a compromise and still the little women says im nuts. O well.

lamar

On the subject of using the whole tree.Is there any way to make or buy a small debarker or other to use small dia. syp for making post.I can get them treated for about .10 bft.

wiam

lamar

There is a post debarker an this site.  I saw one operating in W. Springfield MA 2 years ago at the Forestry Expo. I think they do them in gas, electric or pto.  I have thought about trying to build one.

  http://client.forestindustry.com/forestrytech/index.html  

William

lamar

Wiam that first one looks good.As you said now if we can just build one. I have lots of syp that needs thinning.I have run some 6" or so thru the mill with mixed results.If your carefull and match the dia. up you can mill 2 at a time and when you get flats you can speed up.I kind of like a few 3" sq. post for light fence post.Ive had store bought treated ones in the ground for over 10yrs. and still look new.

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