Tammy and I are putting up a 12 by 16 building. We are using 2 by 6 rafters and a ridge board, for roof construction. The pitch we want is 6/12 or a simple 45% cut. My question is, is there a forumla to figureing out where exactly to cut the "birds mouth" where the rafters sit on the wall. We will be spanning the 16 foot direction. The ridge board will be a 2 by 6 as well. It would be nice to cut all of these pieces in advance. So far we have our bearing walls up. Still need to build the gable end walls before we get to the roof.
Jeff,
If your rise over run is 6/12 then a cut of 45° is not going to work. That would be for a 12/12 pitch.
For a 6/12 I think you will need a 22 1/2° cut. If I understand what you are saying. :D
A framing square is used to lay out the bird's mouth cut--held at 6" and 12".
Laying it out in AutoCAD would give you exact numbers but I don't have Acad on this computer. I suspect someone will have it for you before long though. If not, I will lay it out for you.
-Doug
Good question.... Last time I did a roof I cut 4 rafters to death until I got one right... then I put it down on the floor and made a jig so every one was exactly the same.... I still messed up a couple of em... no idea how that happened.
Doug is correct, a 45 will make the pitch 12/12. Jeff, I use a framing square, they make 2 small brass knobs for it, on the outside edge you tighten one a 6" and on the long edge, one goes at 12". Hold these against the edge of the rafter, you have your pitch angle. Works for stairs too. There is a method for the length of the rafter called stepping off, I never learned it though. Easier for me was to cut the ridge cuts, lay the 2 rafters out flat with a piece as thick as the ridge board between them, then if your walls are 16' apart, lay a 16 footer across them, line it up good & even, mark the ends, thats where the birds mouth is. The same angle set on the framing square will give you both cuts for the birdsmouth. Help any?????
Here's a 6-12
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/jeffb6-12.jpg)
here, I bolded the dim I think you are looking for.
Note: 2 x 4 walls
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/jeffb6-12bold.jpg)
Here's a 12-12 Ski Lodge, 2 x 4 walls.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/jeffb%2012-12.jpg)
Let me know if you need any changes to wall thickness, etc.
I cant read it. :-\ I can make out 144" but I need it for the 16 foot, outside to outside. THe ridge beamd will be 1.5 inches thick.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/jeffb%206-12%20x%2016%20feet.jpg)
::)
I'm pretty dense when it comes to that stuff, but I bet if I study this long enough I'll figure it out. :D
Thanks! BTW, is it 22.5 degrees on my chop saw?
QuoteBTW, is it 22.5 degrees on my chop saw?
Probably, but the angle is not going to be 22.5 deg.
You will have to lay it out the way Mike explained.
Then you can measure the angle, and set your chop saw to it.
Yup, ya need to double check with a framing square and set the saw to that. Remember the angle though in case ya need it later.
Jeff, a 6/12 is 26.5 degrees...5/12 would be 22.5 (half a 45)...which are you wanting?
Yep, it's 26.6 degrees
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/jeffb%206-12%20x%2016%20feet%20closeup.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11541/jeffb%206-12%20x%2016%20feetcloseup2.jpg)
I like pictures ;D
Try this calc out, I entered 95.25 (outside to outside 192" - 1.5" ridge) / 2.
http://www.ls.net/~windyhill/Calcs/raftercalc.htm
I then punched in 6...for 6/12
Then 0
0
0
and Show result
The plumb to plumb line length measured along the top or bottom edge is then given. It does give the same numbers as in a rafter table. Let me know if it doesn't make sense.
I like to make "yokes" to hold my ridge in place temporarily while I build the roof. Setting them at the right height was always a little tricky for me.
This calc will give the height to cut a prop under the ridge. It places the bottom edge of the ridge flush to the Bottom edge of the rafter's plumb cut. That's the "correct" location for inspector types.
Sorry, I'm just a simple framer..........it doesn't make sense. ;)
Jeff,
Do you want to have the inside open to the ridge or do you want to put a ceiling in so that you have a floor for an attic, with that additional storage space.
If you don't put a floor in, there is nothing tieing the bearing walls together. Weight on the roof (snow load) would try to squash the roof down and push out the walls. The ridge board, supported at each end, will be all that is supporting the weight of the roof. It is only 12' but I doubt that a 2x8 would be adequate.
Now it's getting trickier. Attic floor joists would have to run the 12' direction so they wouldn't tie the walls together--just the flooring (OSB) would tie it. Maybe, this just being a shed, you could run the joists 16' but it would definitely be a spongy attic floor. Decision time!
-Doug
(I suspected that cutting the slope in half wouldn't make the angle half. Glad I said "I think you will need..." I always plot these out in CAD and dimension the angle.
Doug
that could be solved with some collar ties .
there is not going to be "attic" but there will be cross beams down about one and a half feet from the peak leaving a cathedral like ceiling. I want a 6/12 pitch as that is supposedly what our house is.
Furby, try this one.
http://www.ls.net/~windyhill/Calcs/rftllclc.htm
It was an "earlier" model
If its still not clear give me stronger hints :).
If those purlins are well supported in the endwalls and stout enough they can act as structural support and do the job just fine.
106.5" plumb to plumb, Jeff.
How many collar ties you putting in Jeff ???
Rafters every 16 inches and coller tie on every rafter. Plan on insulating, and finishing with t and g pine at some point on the inside.
A stick clamped to the framing square works better than the little brass buttons . Gives a better bearing surface.
I would use a 2x10 for the ridge board ,asa a minimum. I hate swayback roofs.
The closer that you place the collar ties to the wall plate the better they perform.
I actually need something wider then a 2 by 6. so the rafters contact the whole ridge board. I knew that, but wasnt thinking. I think two by 8 should be plenty.
Don, I like the second one better, thanks!
I don't do any more figuring then I need to, I just cut and make it work! ;)
Furby
Thats what I did on my shop .. use a sacrificial peice and make it fit . Works every time ;D
The this thread is going, I am waiting to see the roof of many angles. :D I am just an old retired teacher that can't even spel. :'(
We use to try our rafters on the outside walls saved a lot of climing ???Then we would use one for a pattern and mark it and use it till the end . May not be clear I mean if it fitts at the footing it will fit the top if it is plumb and square 8)
Kirk, you can get all the definitions you want at Google.
Type: define:Collar Ties or what ever word you want.
Or we can have a nice long thread about it, and I do like this idea the best. ;)
The thing to remember is a lot of what you just asked has to do with "stick" framing.
It will differ a bit with the timber frame you have planned, and I can't even help you there.
Now if you want a hands on approach......I'll meet ya at Jeff's! How's that sound ???
I could use, I mean Tammy can use the help. I am banned from pounding and lifting. Had my brother in law here today and we got another wall up. I measure and cut, he pounds and lifts.
Birds mouth or Crows foot depending on who you ask is the notch where the rafter meets the top wall plate. The wall plate is the horizontial boards at the top of a 2x stick built wall.
Ridge board or ridge beam is the board that runs the length of the roof peak. The rafters nail to it.
A swayback roof usually has hips and dips along the peak.
Collar ties join a rafter to it's twin on the opposite side.
I dunno about cross beams...
Looks like you're in pretty good hands there Jeff.
I've seen a number of carpenters lay out their rafters on the floor after they've studded up the outside walls. Often they'd draw out the rafter and ridge pole with pencil and chalk line. Then they'd make a pattern. Then they'd cut a couple of rafters and "try fit" them over the pattern they've drawn.
When I was a young man I worked putting up hay for an old farmer. He wasn't a professional carpenter but built his own home and barns, etc. He knew I was on summer break from studying drafting in college so told me about how to read a carpenter's square and what all those numbers down the middle meant and how they could be used. He said he was always called on to lay out gambrel roof barns in the area. They would set him up in the shade with a pair of sawhorses and he'd mark out the parts and someone else would cut them.
When we were building onto our sawshed last weekend, Mary had picked up the square and asked how I was turning it to get the 5/12 pitch. I showed her. Later that day our son Chris stopped in to see what we were doing. He picked up the square and said "Some day I'm going to figure out how to use this thing." Mary jumps in and shows him what I'd shown her earlier in the day – except she was aligning up the 5" on the inside and the 12" on the outside of the square. I saw what she was doing and corrected her. She snapped "What difference does it make?. >:( I said, "One way's right and one way's wrong." ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10034/wssearselsaw20050902.JPG)
That little book that comes with a rafter square shows proper layout.
The blade is the level cut, the tounge is the plumb cut. Pay attention to measuring line of rafter, this will show birds mouth depth. The calculations on the square will show rafter length per run. Don't forget to subtract half the thickness of ridge beam. Be sure to use the common scale and not the hip and valley scale.
The book that comes with a speed square shows it also, If you lost the book, buy another square , I have four ;D
The fact is, most people have no clue how to use a framing square, and the ones most box stores carry don't come with any instructions and most don't have all the tools/rules printed or stamped on them.
There was an old gent in the neighborhood that built alot of structures, but one thing he made you understand was that he wasn't getting up on no roof he didn't build. He never trusted any one else's carpentry. :D :D :D :D
Assuming your gables will face the 12 foot dimension the rafter should be 6' 8 1/2" measured along the top to the outside corner of the birdsmouth. In other words, cut your top pitch angle first then measure along the top 6' 81/2" and make a mark. Square down to the bottom of the rafter from that mark and that will give you the outside corner of the birdsmouth.
Are we gonna have to figure out how to cut stair risers on this thread? I hope it's a walkout. :D :D ;D :D :D
Really cutting rafters is the next thing to rocket science on a complex roof. After I figured out I didn't know what I was doing I bought a book called Roof Framing by Marshall Gross. Just took a look and it has 474 pages on how to cut a rafter. ::)
Larry, I had that book or one like it, read the pages out of it. I had to do a hip & 2 valleys to connect my addition to the main house, in the end, with all that knowledge, it still came down to just starting it, checking measurments a few times & then just cutting a rafter. If it's something you don't do all the time, like roofs or stairs, boy, measure 3 or 4 times unless you want to make a lot of kindling wood. The toughest thing I ever built was a bell tower for our grade school, there were 4 square cuts [the ends of 4 rafters] in it, everything else was an angle or compound angle. The hip roof was a real bear, (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11530/roof%20before%20metalx.jpg)
I had 3 western red ceder 10x10's - 30' long, light poles that got rotton at the ground. I resawed it all, built this tower (https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/11530/b.t.%20workhalfx.jpg)
for the school. Had some volunteers to help put it up, I was kinda proud when it all fit together that day. The roof is green metal.
Jeff,
"I could use, I mean Tammy can use the help. I am banned from pounding and lifting. Had my brother in law here today and we got another wall up. I measure and cut, he pounds and lifts".
How is that arm and shoulder coming along, when will you be able to use it more?
Jeff,
One thing to remember, if you don't like the way the rafters fit the ridge beam, you own your won sawmill, you can make the peices any size you like to get the fit you want. Nothing wrong with sawing a 2x7 if it looks better for your building.
Quote from: D._Frederick on September 14, 2005, 07:27:19 PM
How is that arm and shoulder coming along, when will you be able to use it more?
THey never got it fixed, in factthey are beginning to think I have some sort of "condition" that they aint figured out yet. My problems have progressed to both arms and elbows, and a leg. We dont know if they are related or not. THe leg is a nerve based problem, no feeling in my right foot and no reflexes. At times it extends up and into my hip. THis came on during phisical therapy for the shoulder. THings keep getting worse and they dont knoiw why. I switched to a different dr to try to get some help.
When I build something like that I always like to lay it out on level ground first to get all my measurements.
Hi Jeff long time no talk to. :D
As far as laying things out we always try to draw it out on ou shed floor or blacktop drive using tapes and squares and stuff. Usually get it close enough for "who its for" :D :D
I was down all winter with back problems. 5 MRI's couldn't give the docs enough evidence to justiy surgery. I was in a tremendous amount of chronic pain and the docs were looking to see if I was working a disbility or WC angle. It took a CT miligram before they could see the real damage and I was in surgery in 3 days. That was April 1 st and thank God, I am back to work and all looks bright.
Dan-l-b
I have no intention...or hope...of returning this body in mint condition. If I knew now what I knew then :).
QuoteWe will be spanning the 16 foot direction.
I think I understand, crossbeams are collar ties...those are too high to be of much effect in resisting spreading forces when you have alot of snow on the roof.
I was thinking of double 2x8 purlins running parallell to the ridge about midway between the birdsmouth and ridge. supported in the gable ends under the rafters...beams running across the ceiling. These would help the double 2x8 ridge support the roof under heavy load (40 psf where you are I think?). If you wanted to cantilever a section over a small porch at the end extending those purlins, the doubled ridge, and cantilever beams off the walls would work up to about 4' out. Those beams should be very good stock. The rafters would then be doing light duty.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/addition.jpg)
Main 12x16 building is brown. Double 2x8 ridge, cantilevers and purlins are red. 2x6 rafters are black. I figured each of the ridge boards at 1-3/4" thick. Plumb to plumb is 105-3/8". Is that anything close to what might work?
The right pic is the rafter layout showing what I mean by plumb to plumb. I stuck a square on it with square nuts at 6/12. In light gray is "stepping off" a foot of span at a step. Stepping works but is prone to cumulative error.
The diagonal measure of the triangle formed by the square and the board is in this case 1.118'. That is also known as the the line length ratio...go ahead multiply 94.25 (the horizontal run) x 1.118 (line length ratio)= plumb to plumb measure.
Don, So, how are the purlans supported on the gable ends? Are they installed under and after the rafters?
Don, How low would collar ties have to be in order to be effective? My wall hight is not a full 8 foot, it is only 88 inches. I want to get as much ceiling hight as possible
The purlins could go after, I was thinking of bar clamping them up to a popped line across the undersides of the rafters, attach with a twisted hurricane strap, purlin to rafter, then clamp another 2x8 alongside covering the straps, then stitch the two 2x8s together. You could bevel/rip the tops to make it sit plumb and neat. Then go to the gable ends and put 2 studs under and 2 alongside and around the purlins, same with the ridge. Follow those load paths to the foundation.
Lower third of the triangle or below is usually considered good on collars, the lower the better.
Isthere a way to estmate the ceiling hight using my width and pitch?
What is a hurricane strap? What is popped line? (chalk line?)
Floor to UNDERSIDE of ridge is 132-1/4" (I put the ridge flush to the bottom of the plumb cut). Thats a total rise of 51-1/2" above the wall top to TOP of ridge. (I assumed a 3-1/2" level seat cut on the bird,I also assumed 2x6 rafters at 5-1/2", ridge at 1-3/4x7-1/4" x 2 ply)
Hurricane tie...twisted metal simpson connector, about 4"x 1-1/2" twisted 90 degrees and punched full of holes...lets you hook things together at 90*. By code you need them at the birdsmouth to wall joint as well.
Popped line=chalk line...ever been smurfed when the line spills? :D
Our codes dont call for hurricane straps. Don, since I have a sawmill, couldnt I cut those purlins out of something solid and pretty, and leave them exposed acrossed the ceiling since they will be under the rafters? I can still insulate and put a ceiling on leaving the purlins exposed?
Actually Jeff, mine did on the addition, don't know about a shed.
They not only help against wind but also against seperation due to snow load on rafter framed roofs.
Well, maybe they do, but I have seen a lot of garages and stuff go up around here and never seen them used. I'll find some
Sure the purlins could be solid. I did give you Fb1250 psi to meet what I think are youre codes ...that is some nice stock.
Then I think I might put some blocking between some of the rafters and lag the purlins up to the blocking while you're jacking things up and posting under the ends...trying to keep the purlins snug to the ceiling when its not very loaded and drying ???.
Let me correct what I said, my inspector requested I use them so to speak. ::)
Code calls for straps OR 3 nails, two from one side and one from the other.
I never have cared for a toe nailed connection anyways, due to the mangled wood and poor holding strength.
One thing that we really should still consider. This is still only a shed that I plan on cleaning out perhaps and let people change into swim clothes or sleep in during the summer. I want it to be a pretty shed, but still, a shed. :)
My way...Simpson Strongtie on the inside and another one on the outside.
Probably not to code as I did not use a double top plate...got the trusses centered over the studs.
I like Simpson...hope we don't have a hurricane in Arkansas.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10125/clip.jpg)
Here is a PDF that sure comes in handy and is fun to read too.
http://www.awc.org/pdf/WCD1-150.pdf
I hear you, I'm giving the "hard" line. The safety factor on most wood is at least 2.1 times stronger than I gave you. The snow loads are listed higher than usually occur. I was just giving you what I feel comfortable writing in public, now its up to you :).
That looks fine Larry, I did find out one way I did some "doubling up"was actually weaker than a single connector. I sometimes pays to double check before adding extra connectors in the same area.
Well, you'll wanta hear this then :D That catelevered overhang? I'm planning on it being closed in and a sleeping bunk. ;D
Larry,
Those are what I used, he didn't say anything about more then one each end of the truss, and passed what I used.
Yes Jeff, but you need to be protected from yourself, that's why they make all these rules. You have admited to possible planned uses as other then a shed, so it should be built to code! ;) ;)
:D :D :D
Drop the ridge down to 131-3/8" to the underside...now the top edges plane and it hangs down inside about 7/8"...plumb cut on rafters is about 6-3/16"
My standard disclaimer YOYO, you're on your own ;D.
Oh in the flurry I forgot the formula you asked about originally.
Hypotneuse= horizontal span x (1/ cos (pitch angle))
Plumb to plumb= 94.25 x (1/ cos 26.6 degrees)
=94.25 x (1/ .8945)
=94.25 x 1.118 (remember the line length ratio I gave you earlier)
=105-3/8"
Your doin trig now :D
When I built my shop ... I used my judgement and commen sence , No code here required for secondary buildings . But that dont mean to cut corners . I have full 2 X 6 walls and 2 X 8 rafters , 2 X 10 ridge , car port is under a 2 X 8 truss , sitting on a 6 X 8 steel beam wich is on 10 X 10 post . Dont think this is going anywhere .
Tune in next for how to build a hog trough ??? Not the ones the hogs eat out of either :D :D But the one in the attic 8)
QuoteYour doin trig now
That's why I bought the Construction Master II calculator. :)
Sumbodies signiture here is, "Measure twice, cut once, shim to fit".
That's the Kentucky windage way to build stuff. ;D ;D
Beat it in to fit..... paint it to match :D :D
:D :D :D Sounds like a carp. my father would hire. ;)
In the NW we use structural paint. ;)
We called it quarter inch paint 8) It's a sorry painter that can't cover up what the carpenter leaves :D :D :D
Quote from: DonE911 on September 15, 2005, 03:49:32 PM
Beat it in to fit..... paint it to match :D :D
Don... don't force it just use a bigger hammer ;D
everything in the right order now
smiley_headscratch Measure, Cut, Fit.... Cuss smiley_furious (DanG)....Chaulk,Paint smiley_headscratch ;D
smiley_carpenter_hit_thumb when I use the bigger hammer it just hurts more ::)
Just once, I would like to see Norm Abrams yell OH @??/!!!XXX - I cut the *DanG thing too short!!!!!! Like the rest of us. As he throws the piece of clear Cherry in the stove. :D
A few years ago, Delta had a lottery for winning a dinner with Norm and getting to watch a filming of one of his shows. I didn't win. :(
On one of Roy Underhill's shows he cuts one of his fingers, I think with a chisel, and then proceded to drip the rest of the show. They must not have a pause button on their cameras.
If he needed the money, which he don't, I bet ol' Norm could make a mint with a bloopers tape. ;D :D :D
And then you get into rafters that just can't be frailed enough to care about your math. Notice, the big orange hammer. At a certain point (usually with a big hammer in one hand and perched on a ladder 25' up) a fellow begins to realize it must be easier to figure it out first :D.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10017/valleyfit.jpg)
I always liked Roy, he sure isn't afraid to show that things don't always go as planned and sometimes you end up bleeding for the craft ;D. A good carpenter bleeds every day...a bad carpenter bleeds several times a day.
Keeping the girls busy. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_sheeted.jpg)
Looks like the girls are doing a fine job to me!! 8) 8) 8)
Teri, thats because there aint no roof and you live in Florida and are used to that look. ;)
Just kiddng. If it weren't for them, there wouldn't even be a floor yet.
Quote from: Jeff B on September 19, 2005, 08:24:07 PM
Teri, thats because there aint no roof and you live in Florida and are used to that look. ;)
Ya gotta admit, he has a point Teri!
:D :D :D :D
Looking good Jeff....and girls! 8)
:D :D :D :D
Actually I remember doing that kind of stuff many moons ago. ;D
I've helped build a couple of our houses and 3 barns. :)
I'll put Teri up against most home DIY'ers. Just don't ask for small measurements on the ruler. ::) ::)
Whats a matter harold, dont you know what two little marks past the half mark is?
We are not even going there!!!! :-X
One of them little marks scant. Or two of the big marks fat.
Junkyard
76 some and a little bit more plus a hair. ;D
A homeowner took a friend of mine aside, " I don't know if the new guy is going to work out, I don't think he can read a tape :o" "Why?" he asks. "They were fitting a piece of casing and he asked for 36 and three quarts less a blond short to short"
My friend allowed that he thought the new guy might catch on fast and work out just fine :).
Its looking good guys. Time to put a lid on that box ;D.
If outside to outside of osb is 16' rafter length is 105-3/8" plumb to plumb.
If outside to outside of osb is 16'1" rafter length is 105-15/16" plumb to plumb.
Well, this is the way I did it, and its solid. I'll put it up against 6 foot of snow. I still have some framingto do for the back gable window, but almost ready to finish sheeting. The center beam runs out the front and supports the canteleverd roof and loft.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/support_beam.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/support_beam_collar_ties.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/front_shed.jpg)
Lookin' Good!!!! ;D
Nice job Jeff.Don't know how you got it done with all them cipherin recomendations!! :D :D :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/kids_shed.jpg)
Here are the kids sheeting.
Well, I appreciatte all the cyphering, but honestly, I just did it my way. I put to braces up to hold the ridge board, held up two rafters and marked them, then used them for patterns for each side.
I think you need a couple pieces of tin on the roof for when it rains. :) That way when your out there, you can get a good nap in!! :D :D :D
If tin were cheaper then shingles, I would consider it. I guess I'll have to hire it shingled. I aint able to do that. Furby, ya need a job?
How much is the pay? ;D
Just had a refresher course on shingling this past winter on our roof!
It pays enough to get you gas money that MIGHT, maybe, get you half way here. :D
In other words...I would have to "thumb" the rest of the way up there and back! :D :D :D
Yea, but we'd feed ya and letcha sleep in da shed! 8)
Always say, "putty and paint, putty and paint makes a carpenter what he ain't." Looken good there boss and girls. You did just fine. My take on steel is that it IS cheaper, over your lifetime. 8) 8) 8)
8) 8) 8) 8)
You got grits?????? :D :D :D
You bring that building and the shingles over here and I'll shingle it for free. ;D ;D :o 8) 8) 8)
I would like to proudly add, that all of the lumber there, other then of course the OSB, and two treated two by tens, was sawn by Tammy and I out of logs we hauled home from a couple different locations. 8) It is COOL TO HAVE YER OWN MILL!
DON'T EVEN MENTION SHINGLES!
Started the tear off at my Grandma's today, yup CK, I'm stupid all right!!!
THis is an easy job Furb. Only 4 square and the felt is already down. Just need drip edge. I got a gun that CK give me last year. :)
I got a brand new gun to break in tomorrow.
I'd smile if I could.
This job is 25 on and at least 50 off, not looking forward to the triple layered sections!
Yep gotta agree with Jeff, I know that I would not have my shop / garage had I not have my own mill . Sure was fun cutting down the trees and sawing them up and putting the building together .
:-[ :D, Sorry guys, I'll do the cypherin in my head.
I think it looks just fine, any way is right that works ;)
It does feel good to make something out of a tree you worked from harvest to a nice finished product.
Don,
You gonna pay Jeff a visit about mid January and pile 6' of snow up there to prove him wrong? ;D
Well, I was secretly thinking of getting Jeff to measure to ground now and under snow load and get back to me, so I could reverse cypher it :-X :D :D.
:D :D :D :D :D :D :D
Quote from: Jeff B on September 26, 2005, 09:11:32 PM
I would like to proudly add, that all of the lumber there, other then of course the OSB, and two treated two by tens, was sawn by Tammy and I out of logs we hauled home from a couple different locations. 8) It is COOL TO HAVE YER OWN MILL!
smiley_smug01
Well, no pics to show today but we did pick our windows up last night. Got our facia boards on, drip edge and are now ready to shingle. We have a young fewllow ready to shingle, but Tammy wants to give it a go in the morning first. I am sure she will do fine if I can get the confounded nail gun to fire everytime instead of every fifth time. Dont know nothing about them so dont know what to look at first. :-\
A Hammer still works. :D :D
Yup Tom, but that's TOO much work!
I like them guns!
Jeff,
Whenever I had trouble with my air nailer I usually found that I had forgotten to adjust the output of the compressor to what the nailer spec call for. Too little ot too much air and it will not function right.
Good luck,
Ernie Edwards
Ernie, I'll try that, as this is a different compressor.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shingles.jpg)
I better get back out there. ;)
Wow! You guys are doing a great job! smiley_smash
Tammy and Stacy are doing a great job roofing. I am thier flunky and they bout got me wore out. My arms quit working again so we are taking a rest. I did some staining in between my shingle cutting job. Trying to get rid of the extra fence stain as it wont winter, and I dont want to waste it. Here is where we are at now.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/roof.jpg)
...and don't forget the air tool oil....
That is a sharp looking little building, I like the gable fascia 8)
Stacy and I sawed out a little siding and started to install it. Here is our progress.
:)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/siding_start.jpg)
Good job guys! 8)
I really like the tiny front porch with the overhang. Is that a tiny little room up in the attic with the window? What are your plans for this mini-house?
The clapboard siding looks really nice guys. :)
Jeff, we are gonna have to talk...my wife saw your building! You know what that means. :D It looks good.
Tell her to come on up and look at it close. I figure on putting a little kitchen in it and making Forestry Forum members make me breakfast in exchange for rent. ;D
Quote from: Jeff B on October 06, 2005, 12:53:18 PM
Tell her to come on up and look at it close. I figure on putting a little kitchen in it and making Forestry Forum members make me breakfast in exchange for rent. ;D
Oh No !!, so much for the free lot rent during the Pig Roast :D
Hey jeff make sure it's got plenty of outlets :o
Hey why did ya cover the pool already ???
So if I come up and make ya a big breakfast of fried hog jowls, eggs, cat head biscuits and grits....how many days would I be able to stay ??? ??? :D ;D :D
Kevin, I think it's to stop all them perdy leaves from fallin in the pool and making the boss's mood look a little ugly. ;D
Kevin, this will be your breakfast cooking spot. Right outside under the overhang. Already got it figured out. :)
Garey, You will be able to stay as long as you want because it'll probably be me that leaves. :D
Quote from: Patty on October 06, 2005, 12:27:35 PM
Good job guys! 8)
I really like the tiny front porch with the overhang. Is that a tiny little room up in the attic with the window? What are your plans for this mini-house?
Thanks Patty! , actually, the plan is for using it for storage until we can get the garage/barn.jeff's BIG doghouse built. :D THEN, it becomes a pool house-guest house. The overhang should be big enough for a bunk, but we have a log futon in storage right now that will probably go in there to convert to a large bed when folded out. I do plan on insulating it next year.
Would that be cedar siding?
Quote from: OneWithWood on October 06, 2005, 01:42:13 PM
Would that be cedar siding?
Nope redpine but the corners and window trim are trim though. If you look close you might recognize it's source. ;D does FOOD-MIZER ring a bell? 8)
Neat house Jeff.
Do you need to cut grooves in the back of the siding to stop rain from climbing up between the boards by capillary action?
When I helped grandfather put clapboard on the south end of the house 25 years ago it wasn't grooved. The clapboard usually has a thick edge and a thin edge, but I don't think it's nesseccary. Now the house is covered in vinyl, right over the clapboards.
I dont think its a problem. One thing, there is a monster overhang, two, the siding is horizontal.
Thanks, that's great.
We want to build more things here and if you buy weatherboard (clapboard) from the retailers, it has a pair of grooves, just 3/16" deep sawcuts 1/2" apart near the bottom of the inside edge, that's why I asked.
Looks awesome, Jeff! 8)
Jeff, really looking nice. Shows a lot of thought...roof overhang, windows, along with the cantilever porch are quite attractive.
Like seeing tarpaper in lieu of Tyvek for house wrap. Maybe an old timer but I have used both and think tarpaper is far superior.
One question...for your footings are you using those precast things from Lowes at $8.00 + or so? My buddy is pre-casting those things and wants me to start sawing ERC so he can sell some kits.
They are the precast, but we only paid 4.00 at home Depot
QuoteLike seeing tarpaper in lieu of Tyvek for house wrap. Maybe an old timer but I have used both and think tarpaper is far superior.
Ditto. After seeing some pictures of holey tyvek under cedar I never looked back. I figure other extractives will do the same thing to it, just slower.
Looks good guys. I was
in the doghouse before we were that far along ;D.
You guys are really doing a nice job . Its looking super nice on the pics must be something else to see up close .
smiley_clapping
Quote from: Kevin_H. on October 06, 2005, 01:01:55 PM
Hey why did ya cover the pool already ???
Was thinking the same thing. We are just now getting the good swimming weather. ;D
But I did close my parents pool up yesterday, water temp was still 68. :o
Mine is still open though. 8)
We have a door!
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/siding_2.jpg)
Our pool temp droped to the low sixties the week after the pigroast and never recovered. We closed it up on Labor day.
I forgot to post this photo. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/stacy_roofing.jpg)
lookin' better every day
A little forward process. We thought we would mix it up a bit. Menards had cedar shingles for 15 bucks a bundle so we bought a couple bundles to do the gable overhang.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/cedar_shingles.jpg)
Good decision. The two textures work nice together. 8)
-Doug
Its looking really nice. 8)
I like cedar shingles too, but with all this vinyl and tar shingles you don't see much used any longer. I think there are original cedar shingles under the aluminum roofing on the main part of the house. My old grainery has cedar shingles, but all but the west side is covered by aluminum siding. The O'Tooles Artisan shop in Grafton uses cedar shingles for roofing and siding, looks good.
Seeing as I missed most of this. I can just say that the girls have done a fine job there and just think Jeff's got a new job now ( scatch boss) ;D
You three do nice work. Looking great!
A little progress. Itfinally stopped raining and was about 63 today, so, I used up the last tab of stain in the bucket beofre cold sets in. Stuff was getting pretty thick. Got a few more siding boards on as well. The plan is to let those dry until spring before staining.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_shingles_stained.jpg)
What Jeff is not telling you is he didn't get more done because I chewed his ear off for part of the afternoon.
Sorry Jeff. ;)
Gotta say though, the "dog house" really does look good, and they have all done an excelent job with it!
Chet suggested this weekend that I might want to stain the siding I have up so the red pine does not discolor over the winter.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_stain.jpg)
Looks Great!!!!! 8)
Ya'll have done a fine job! ;D
Probably a good idea , especially if there's some snow up against it.
Lookin better every day.
What do you use as a stain?
Sikkens Natural.
Thanks Jeff
The Sikkens site does not list a "Natural" Is it an oil based stain, I would like to find an equilavent here in NZ. When were were in Canada a few years ago, we saw a lot of garden sheds and the such like that were treated in a similar manner and we think that would be a good seller here, you know, the old value added thing to maximise our returns from our small block of dirt.
Thanks
Ernie
Well, sounds like we were having our last good weather this weekend so we got on the stick and got the rest of the shed sided and stained. We had the back to do which no one will see in summer, but you will be able to see it once the leaves are down. THe back edge has no overhang so I had to scribe the siding into the natural edge facia board and the caulk. Since I had the jigsaw out, Stacy decided to play with it in between our using it for the shed, hence, the second picture and Stacy's contribution to the final part of the siding, a lttle wooden heart that is inscribed Built by Jeff, Stacy and Tammy.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_back.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/heart.jpg)
8) 8) 8) 8) Super Job Guys!!!!
Great 'team' effort there. :)
You guys did a super nice job .... Enter it in the next WoodMizer personal best , I'm sure they would like to hear about how it was built and by whom ,
Jeff why no overhang on the back side , if you dont mind me asking . ???
Well, I did that for a couple three reasons, one, material lengths, namely OSB. I wanted to optimise the use of what I had to buy. I wanted all I could get in the cantelevered roof in the front, but didnt want to buy extra OSB. As it works out, its was exactly two sheets long. The other reason is, I have built this building stout enough that if I want to move it somewhere else on my property I can, and if I do ever move it, I want to be able to double it's size by simply removeing the siding on the back and putting it up aginst another structure. The 3rd reason is, you dont ever see the backside, only the neighbor and a glimpse of it going down the back road once the leaves are down. I considered not even staining it. ;) ;D
Nice job, Brokaw Construction Group.
That will make a nice dispaly room for all the family toys when it isnot being used as a refuge or breakfast nook. :)
Yep, fine lookin Chateau. The construction crew done a right fine job. 8) 8)
Fine job folks. What are your rates? (joking) ;) 8)
Stacy and I spent much of the week making and installing the soffit for the shed. I have a router and a cheap router table so we would cut each piece then run it through to make shiplap joints so when it shrinks we dont get unwanted vent holes for da birds and da bees. Especially da Bees. Stacy got all the stain used up this morning. The hardware store is out of it, we are out, and they wont be ordering any more until spring.
THe weather here has been unpresidented. As you see from the photos below we still have a ton of leaves on the trees. Never before have I saw this here. ALWAYS by Halloween the leaves are down and we have them taken care of.
We kept doing things in steps because we knew winter was at our heels. When we put the tar paper on, we knew we had to get it up to protect the OSB because there was no way we would have time to do siding. Just not enough fall left. Well, as you can see we got the siding up and unbelievably we got it stained and all closed in and CHIPMONK PROOF! 8)
The only thing we have left to do on the outside is finish off under the overhang. Right now, I am not sure what I am going to do there. I might edge some cedar poles then edge them with the mill, and screw them up there. Not sure yet, but that is well protected and I can think about it with out worry until spring. That is unless God blesses us with another week like this past week and then Stacy and I will probably be out there working together on that. :)
I have to say, the best part of this project has been working together with Stacy on all the different things. We work well together. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_soffit_1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_soffit_2.jpg)
As someone posted elsewhere on the Forum, working with your kids is what it's all about. Really nice job.
On an earlier post I said " I am now making my resevations for the next piggy roast. I want the guesthouse portion. I don't want to run the dog out of his portion. "
I have changed my mind. That guesthouse is way too fancy for my wife and myself . We are used to living in this shack we call a house. :( I guess we will have to stay in the Days Inn again next pig roast. ;)
Hey Jeff,
You may just get that week........... or more, all the wooly bears I'm seeing are totally black. ::)
Good Job by the way!
Actually, we are getting a pretty heavy lightning/thunder storm right now............ in November! :o
Added a little something to the shed today. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_electric.jpg)
A periscope?
Outdoor part of the indoor plumbing?
Aye,if anyone conduit,it's Jeff.
I guess he put the round duit tuit :-X ::) ;D
Is it to run the TV cable into the shed, or maybe to run the wires for the computer? You will need a computer and TV when you are sent to the shed. ;D
Its just the electric, but internet would be no problem out there because we are running a wireless router. The shed will only be a shed and my blade sharpening room until we get the next big construction project done, but we have no isea when that will be. It may be just a garage and shop, or it might be an addition/garage and shop. If we can get the approval of using our own materials approved by the powers that be,
Looks good. So much for the portability. :)
No. If'n I were to bet you would move it just to win :D
Just wait for the ground to freeze OWW, then make your bet! ;)
Makes no difference. The building can still move if it had to. The wireing can be released with a screw driver.
Yeah, but your tires will be spinning! smiley_big_grin3
I have friends with skidders with chains or dozers and cranes of varying sizes.
Gonna hafta be a BIG bet to make that worth while! ::)
How ya plan on laying the new power line after ya move it? ;)
I rarely heard of technique called an extension cord.
:D :D :D :D :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_light.jpg)
8) thats bright 500 watt haligen :o
Nah, just 100 watt bulb using a slow shudder speed. :)
That is so DanG nice that I put the picture on my desktop background or whatever the heck its called . That is beautiful ! Good job done by everyone ! smiley_smash
Which picture Buck? The one where it looks like we need a manger? :D
I think it looks like we may be having a close encounter of the 3rd kind in da loft...
:o Looks like one of dem 500 zillion watt lights Tim Da Tool Man wooda used. :D
If all yer monitors start ta flicker, ya know I turned it up some more :D
I hope you saved some sun screen :D
Welcome to da Brokaw's blade sharpening emporium and tanning salon 8)
that ought to get through those Michigan winters :D
Looks like a UFO in Jeff's back yard !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You plannin on gettin a tan under that light this winter Jeff ;D ;D
Tammy decided she wanted a place for Mr. Tom's rocking chair ;) for this years pig roast. So we (she mostly) built one the last couple days. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/tammy_on_shed_deck_2.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/tammy_on_shed_deck.jpg)
Well bless your little pea pickin' heart, wildflower !
That's just about the homiest looking little home I've seen in a long time. Y'all have done a great job. It looks like a regular house.
I know you've been working on it real hard. I watched on the live "cabin cam" when you started it and now.... it's even got a front porch. ;D 8)
That looks like a fine place for Tom (and others) to sit and contemplate the world. A great family effort resulting in a very nice addition to your home. smiley_thumbsup
This thread really stirred the ol memory bank. My dad was a shop teacher and spent his summers building and renovating houses, with me goferin'. I had forgotten how to lay out trusses but now it comes back.
Apparently, he would no longer be allowed to do it except for outbuildings. I understand the code now calls for engineered trusses from a licenced manufacturer. Houses he built over 40 years ago have not gone anywhere.
yea, but the inspectors need to justify their job. I feel that many codes call for specific things like engineered or grade stamps because the inspectors know so little they need to see the stamp to determin if something is safe. Many times I see real junk that has a grade stamp, that passes but some real nice rough cut, no loose knots, only small knots and good straight grain sturdy wood fails because it is not officially stamped. Some of the stamped really makes a joke of the law but you must play their game or you are fighting a loosing battle. I used to be in the insulation business back about 25 years ago. Some attics were 2x4 rafters with random spacing up to about 3' on center and the roof was still straight, some were stamped lumber, 24" centers trusses and were sway backed, couldn't stand between the rafters or you wolud fall thru the roof and thru the attic, but it passed inspection. Mu feeling is that they should require everyone to use full demension lumber and get rid of this 1.5"x3.5" junk, many of which were cut on a scragg from a 4.2" diam tree, bark on all sides after finishing but it has a grade stamp, GOOD STUFF!
I would go out with on occasion with a friend who is an appraiser. I was apalled at what I saw in the new subdivisions yet apparently they met code. One brand new home was so bad I asked him what he would put in his estimate. He said subject to an engineers report ::)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/tammy_on_shed_deck.jpg)
What is really cool is that Wildflower is Tom-T-Shirt-Red. ;D 8)
Tonight tammy finished up on her fake foundation and was sitting putting together the porch light.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_foundation.jpg)
Jeff
What did you guys use for stain on the , I like that color , I think it would look good on my logs . Sure is a good lookin place to park a rocker .
Marcel its Sikkens Natural Cedar. Same thing that is on the house and our wood-mizer fence.
Caught a picture of Tammy power washing her cedar posts we put on her deck. The posts were a few years old and just rolled out of thier bark but has a lot of inner bark and gue on them. I might have to clear coat these babies as they are really purty. It looks like the cedar spalted. I never saw spalted cedar.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_wash1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/shed_wash2.jpg)
Nice cedar posts Jeff. Got to love it when Mother Nature surprises you with a gift like that.
Thought I would add a few pictures to what we have been doing on this.
Added a porch light and finished wiring the shed including some GFI outdoor receptacles for Kevin_H to plug into to cook breakfast. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/porch_light_shed.jpg)
Put in a layer of OSB over the subfloor in preperation for the red cedar floor coming from Cedarman.
Completed the insulation and added a cooling unit. ;D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/insulating_shed.jpg)
We are now working on sheeting over the insulation in preperation for paneling with the cedar we sawed at Corley5's
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/osb_shed.jpg)
Oh! We also wrote something on one of the window headers before we seal it up under the OSB.
:)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/hidden_shed_1.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/hidden_shed_2.jpg)
Now that's special! ;D
how many forestry forum members can fit in there!
some of us need to go on a diet, I believe that means no more posts about food for a while :D
Jeff,
I see insulation. Will it have heat? We may be in the area in Feb. ;D
I was telling my wife about the tiles (blocks) for the ceiling and said " you remember, the little building behind Jeff & Tammys at the pig roast"
It took me a few minutes to realize it wasn't there when we were :-[
I am better than most at saying dumb things.
One of my teachers in grade school said " engage brain before mouth"
I shoulda listened :D
We are planning to have some heat yes sir!
The little cabin should be comfortable for a couple with a couple of kids. Long as Tom aint there and somebody aint got it reserved, its available! (well, once its done)
I was wanting to stay in the little cabin with the wife when you started the project. 8) Not any more. :( You gone and fancied up the place with windows and a wooden floor. If the wife stayed in a ritzy place like that then she would be expecting me to build her a place with all those luxurious features. ;)
Bob the hillbilly
Quote from: Jeff B on June 09, 2006, 06:18:45 PM
We are planning to have some heat yes sir!
Mighty fine looking building ya got there, Jeff. What flavor of heat are you leaning towards?
Not sure yet on the heat. Maybe a small ventless gas heater.
A remote controlled ventless gas fireplace works good.
They throw alot of heat.
Our friends in north Georgia have one in their cabin.
We will be installing one in ours to replace the wood burning stove.
8) No more popping the breaker on the well pump while cooking breakfast.
looking good...
By request we've done an upgrade. :)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/facilities.jpg)
Nothing but the best for future forum guests. 8)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/10001/facilities_2.jpg)
We been having sweet corn lately and been saving da cobs too! ;D
:o :o Another one of those indoor outhouses. You must have learned about them from that woodshop teacher in Japan. I here them things are getting real popular in the big cities.
This one is even fancier, they got it scaled down so as now, the sink and the bowl is all in one place! Ingenious!
8) 8) 8)
Do ya wash before, after or during? :D :D :D
Ummm I hate to say this since you've already sheated it in but you forgot a vent in dat dar ceiling. ;D
Wow Jeff - that looks just like where you are staying... :D
(Now he has to figure out if I am teasing or not...)
JeffB, how did Tammy and yourself make out with those blinds? I remember seeing your pictures in progress, but never seen a finished product. ;D
Still a work in progress. Been to busy to get back to them yet. :)
Them slats you where sawing out, reminded me of something for my next possible project. The sliding door for a role top desk. I wonder where I'm gonna get some leather to strap on the back of the slats. I know I can get it here (locally) somewhere.
8)
Roll top desks that I have seen have the slats glued to canvas, or some sort of cloth, not leather.
Leather will last longer though. I will be looking into it some day. A strip of rubber conveyor belt could even work.
Thanks :)
It's also possible to run cord through the roll top slats instead of somthing on the inside.
Lot of work though.
You can BUY that stuff already made. Just order the width you want.
Yeah, I got some here.
Thing is, if you are trying to match the wood you are using.
Think STAIN, Furb :D :D :D
Yeah, I know....... but why not just buy a desk then?
Not when I got a barn full of lumber stacked and stickered. ::) :D :D :D