Echo CS-590

Andyshine77 · June 03, 2014, 09:25:51 PM

Made a quick video on carb tuning. I'll edit tonight and put the video on YouTube, it will take some time so please be patient.

jargo432 · June 03, 2014, 09:33:58 PM

I would really love to see a good video on what your talking about.

Thanks in advance!!

Andyshine77 · June 04, 2014, 07:30:34 AM

Well here's the video I made last evening. I tried my best to explain how to properly set the low and high speed carb circuits. The first video doesn't really depict how to tune the H speed circuit in the wood, so I'll attach an older video I made depicting that. When tuning the high, you want to hear slight 4 stroking, or rough sound under light load, than under load that sound should clear up and smooth out. I'm not the best at explaining my knowledge, so any and all questions are welcome, I'll do my best to answer them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qjb9_UIgSdY&list=UUDzYN6LbndM64YHQp_JOb4Q&feature=share

http://youtu.be/ulY5sU4axFQ

luvmexfood · June 04, 2014, 05:24:30 PM

I haven't got to watch the videos yet due to only dial-up internet access here at the house so it takes to long. Will have my laptop tommorow at Lowe's so will try and view them then.

Can you give me a brief explanation of what "four cycling is"?

Andyshine77 · June 04, 2014, 05:38:49 PM

Quote from: luvmexfood on June 04, 2014, 05:24:30 PM
I haven't got to watch the videos yet due to only dial-up internet access here at the house so it takes to long. Will have my laptop tommorow at Lowe's so will try and view them then.

Can you give me a brief explanation of what "four cycling is"?

Four stroking is the result of the two cycle engine getting too much fuel, and not igniting or completely burning all of the fuel each cycle. When you put the engine under load, the combustion temperature goes up and the fuel gets burned properly each cycle. We want to hear a little four cycling without load or light load. When milling or running a new saw, you want to hear more four cycling than normal.

jargo432 · June 05, 2014, 12:00:53 AM

Thanks for the video. Did you do a MM before you tuned the cs-590?

Andyshine77 · June 05, 2014, 12:39:17 AM

Quote from: jargo432 on June 05, 2014, 12:00:53 AM
Thanks for the video. Did you do a MM before you tuned the cs-590?

I started the saw and ran before I did a MM, just to make sure it was good to go. Before I port a saw I like to run at least a tank of fuel through it, again just to make sure it doesn't have any issues. The saw in the video has some time on it, I'm quite impressed with how it runs. The CS-590 is the best value on the market right now. At one time you could pick up a Dolmar 7900 for around $550, now that was a bargain.

ladylake · June 05, 2014, 06:31:18 AM

I have one of the $550 Dolmar 7900 saws. Steve

CTYank · June 05, 2014, 06:54:56 AM

Quote from: luvmexfood on June 04, 2014, 05:24:30 PM
I haven't got to watch the videos yet due to only dial-up internet access here at the house so it takes to long. Will have my laptop tommorow at Lowe's so will try and view them then.

Can you give me a brief explanation of what "four cycling is"?

On YouTube search "2-stroke tuning" "2-stroking" or "4-stroking". You get the idea. Audio will communicate it much better than description, like "singing" vs "asthmatic".

Andyshine77 · June 05, 2014, 04:52:12 PM

Quote from: CTYank on June 05, 2014, 06:54:56 AM
Quote from: luvmexfood on June 04, 2014, 05:24:30 PM
I haven't got to watch the videos yet due to only dial-up internet access here at the house so it takes to long. Will have my laptop tommorow at Lowe's so will try and view them then.

Can you give me a brief explanation of what "four cycling is"?

On YouTube search "2-stroke tuning" "2-stroking" or "4-stroking". You get the idea. Audio will communicate it much better than description, like "singing" vs "asthmatic".

Correct. In the video I posted you can hear the difference quite easily.

jargo432 · June 06, 2014, 01:53:14 AM

Thanks again for the video. I have one more question ???

You said that you lean it out on the low side. I'm confused, doesn't that rob it of gas/lubricant when it's at idle?

Andyshine77 · June 06, 2014, 02:43:10 AM

Quote from: jargo432 on June 06, 2014, 01:53:14 AM
Thanks again for the video. I have one more question ???

You said that you lean it out on the low side. I'm confused, doesn't that rob it of gas/lubricant when it's at idle?

When you set the low, you lean the needle it out until the saw almost stalls, then you back it out 1/4 of a turn and check for proper acceleration. If there is any hesitation back the needle out another 1/4 of a turn and repeat. Running the saw too lean for a little while doesn't hurt anything whatsoever, especially at idle. When you achieve quick acceleration without any hesitation, the engine is now getting enough fuel at idle. If the low is set too lean, acceleration will not be quick and smooth.

I hope my answer helps. Again feel free to ask more questions if needed.

jargo432 · June 06, 2014, 09:41:15 AM

I thought I'd start off by adjusting my old Poulan 3314 for practice before I went at the CS-590. I found out I need a splined adjustment tool. Well, I've been looking for the last 30 minutes online and all I can find is one made for the Poulan weedeater. Part #530035560.

Does anyone know if this is the same one used for the Poulan 3314 or where I can get one for my saw?

Thanks

Andyshine77 · June 06, 2014, 04:58:57 PM

Best place to find them is on Ebay. The one for your saw is the splined driver and it's universal, so you don't have to buy the one from Poulan. I myself use a dermal with a small cutting wheel, to cut a slot in the needles, so you can use a regular carb screwdriver.

luvmexfood · June 08, 2014, 11:08:54 AM

Question for those that have bought a 590 and used it for awhile. For the money would you buy it again. I have been struggling with my 029 cutting some bigger hardmaple etc and it is taking me a long time just to get the tree on the ground.

How do you think the 590 would handle a 24" bar with a skip tooth chain. Last maple I cut was 36" at the butt and I have trouble keeping the saw cut the same around on the back cuts resulting in having to keep sawing more than I should. Also the saw is pulling to one side slightly and that makes it even harder to keep on the same plane. It took me 2.25 tanks of gas just to get the tree on the ground.
I could only lay it one way with it's lean and not damage surrounding younger trees I want to save. Right across the skid trail so now a lot of limbing and brush moving. Course that has nothing to do with the saw. But with that much limbing it sure feels good to pick up my little 170 and cut the small stuff.

John Mc · June 08, 2014, 11:55:41 AM

If your saw is pulling to one side, you've got a chain sharpening problem and/or a worn bar. Check to see if your bar rails need truing up and deburring, and try a brand new chain. If that solves the problem, you can go back and resharpen the original chain and see if you can get it to cut straight.

beenthere · June 08, 2014, 01:14:35 PM

Agree with John.
Not the saw, but appears it is a chain filing problem, a bar problem, and possibly even an operator problem.
;)
Does not sound like a different saw brand or model will help.

7sleeper · June 08, 2014, 01:22:07 PM

Further the 290 is very choked at the exhaust compared to the orignal 029 muffler. So it might help to reopen the exhaust to original size (= about the size of the cylinder opening, donot exeed) and retune the carb.

7

luvmexfood · June 08, 2014, 01:37:06 PM

Thanks guys. I'm just thinking a few more CC's of power plus a saw that is not 14 years old. Put a new bar on it and helped just a little. Could be the angles I am sharpening to. Use a Harbor Freight grinder after about every three filings or a good rocking. I know it is not that accurate but the chains will cut like a son of a gun after sharpening with it.

BTW the saw is an 029. And people may laugh when I say I pull my 170 out to do light limbing but if I use it as much as can for that it gives me a little more time in the evening before my arms feel like they are going to revolt on me.

ladylake · June 08, 2014, 01:57:27 PM

A CS590 will have a LOT more power than a 029 or MS290, not even close. Steve

John Mc · June 08, 2014, 03:14:10 PM

Quote from: luvmexfood on June 08, 2014, 01:37:06 PM
Could be the angles I am sharpening to. Use a Harbor Freight grinder after about every three filings or a good rocking. I know it is not that accurate but the chains will cut like a son of a gun after sharpening with it.

You may be running in to one of the limitations on your Harbor Freight grinder. I don't use a grinder, but from my reading here and on some other sites, it seems some of the less expensive grinders are not very rigid, and end up sharpening the left handed cutters slightly differently than the right handed ones. They can also be more prone to flexing as they grind, causing other variations. The chain will be sharp, but one side can end up different from the other. If it's just a couple of individual teeth that are affected, you my never notice. If it's one whole side, you might see the problem you describe.

With care and special attention, you can get good results with a less expensive grinder, it just takes a bit more work and finesse. Somewhere in my reading, I saw something about someone modifying a cheap grinder with shims or washers to take out some of this slop, but I can't remember the details. Perhaps someone else on her remembers...

luvmexfood · June 08, 2014, 06:01:40 PM

Yes I read the article I think you are refering to. I had to do with the clamp to tighten when you come down to sharpen chain. The grinder has some flex just because the way it is made. CHEAP. But for general firewood I think it would be ok. Some of the crookedness is operator error I'm sure. Then combined with the grinder could multiply it. Different angles mean different down pressure. Need to pick-up a new chain and try.

Just think I need a little more umph when cutting a 36" hard maple than the 029 can provide in a reasonable time. Money is tight but so is time. Would love to have an autotune saw but can't swing it now.

Andyshine77 · June 08, 2014, 06:30:02 PM

luvmexfood Understand either this is an operator problem or your chains aren't up to par. If you focus your time and effort on learning how to properly sharpen a chain, your efficiency will drastically improve. People when it comes to cutting, a proper chain is more important than the saw itself. Now get that through your thick heads!! lol.

ladylake · June 08, 2014, 07:26:22 PM

For sure run sharp chains that cut straight but with sharp chains that cut straight a Echo Cs590 will cut way faster than a 029 or Ms290 as they don't have very good power for a 56cc saw. The 029 was better due to a more open muffler but the MS290 would be the same with a opened up muff. My 50cc Echo saws outcut good running Stihl 029 or MS290 saws by quite a bit so the CS590 should be WAY ahead in cutting speed. Steve

21incher · June 08, 2014, 07:29:10 PM

I also am looking at the CS-590 for a second saw with a little more power and will be following this thread to see users opinions of it. Luvmexfood I have a MS-290 that seemed a little underpowered and I replaced the bar and chain with the Baileys narrow kerf set and it helped a lot for firewood cutting.