What woods where

[Sedgehammer]

Skip that, sorry. I forgot I had found this place a while back that offers kiln dried, white pine, western red cedar, spruce or european spruce 2 x 8 t&g with v cut on the one side. Price for the white pine is $1.79 per lf. Doug fir is 2 x 6 same t&g and also $1.79 lf. Would your choice be the DF?  

[Don P]

If grade is equal the DF is considerably stronger.

[Sedgehammer]

Pretty sure it is and yes, a lot stronger. I had lost that link, as I had forgot to paste it in my house file and I only found it again while doing a search and it came up that it had been viewed already. But maybe the reason i didn't paste it was due to the price...... But I haven't been able to find kilned t&g DF fir any place else yet either. 

[Brad_bb]

Timberframe live edge braces and fence posts, but mostly braces.  I've done Osage braces before, but this will be my first time attempting to make fence posts.  I have about 4 small diameter straight logs, but mostly larger diameter 16-22" dia 8.5' logs to mill posts from.
Here is one of the more distinctive pieces.  I'm seeing it becoming an archway.
It's about 7-8' across the ends and 14-15" dia I'm guessing.  I'll have to figure out how to make some kind of rotary table to attach to the mill, lock the head stationary and rotate it through the band.


 

 

[Old Greenhorn]

You are one sick puppy Brad  :D I can't wait to see how this comes out. I like the way you think.

[Sedgehammer]

Here is one of the more distinctive pieces.  I'm seeing it becoming an archway.
It's about 7-8' across the ends and 14-15" dia I'm guessing.  I'll have to figure out how to make some kind of rotary table to attach to the mill, lock the head stationary and rotate it through the band.

I don't have a mill, so maybe this is an ignorant question, but why can't you just fasten it and mill across the arch? It doesn't look to be that wide, but I'm sure you know what your head opening width is and you measured that and it doesn't fit. 
With that said, can't you mill as much you can and then unfasten the wood and swivel the wood while the one end is still in the band saw and re-level and finish cutting? I know that sounds way easier than it would be, as most things are unfortunately..... ;D

[Brad_bb]

With that said, can't you mill as much you can and then unfasten the wood and swivel the wood while the one end is still in the band saw and re-level and finish cutting? 

You can do that with pieces that have less width.  If you can rotate it a bit on your cross bar/bunk so that it doesn't go out of plane, it works.  That works with pieces with much less curve than this one.  If your cut is not planer, it defeats the purpose.  Once you have the first flat face, you can flip it and the flat face will reference your bunks/cross bars and you can rotate it all you want.  If I had a wide mill with a 35" throat opening, I'd try it just rotating it.  My regular LT15 has a throat opening of 24.5" unfortunately.  The other issue is that I later come back and flatten these types of pieces after they've air dried for a year or more.  The width of the planer head that runs on the mill track is even tighter - 16" plus 4" translation.  I am planning to build a wider mill planer, but haven't gotten to that yet.  It will be the same planer on a much wider mill track (6ft wide) and the planer will still be a 16" wide cut, but I'll build it to translate the full width of the track.

[Don P]

CSM?

[Brad_bb]

Yes that is possible Don P, but not sure how well the rip skip chain would last on Osage, or even how well Osage will rip cut.