LT40 Shakedown

[Dogwood Heart]

Picked up my new mill yesterday from NC and brought it home. Parked it next to the firewood pile to cut my teeth and had a few questions for the more experienced operators. Before sawing I already christened my fender with the loading arms while staring at the picture that tells you not to do that, so I'm off to a good start.  I know to make a startup procedure and laminate it in the cover. My first concern is when I push a slab off the log it sometimes hits the tire if the loading arm is too low, will this be a problem, or do I need to raise the arms more before deslabbing? How many logs did it take before getting good at manipulating the log with the hydraulics? Is there any way to stiffen the feed speed potentiometer? I would have liked a little more drag since I am wearing gloves and it is too easy to overspeed in the cut. I am sure I will have a few more questions after tonight's saw session when I get off work.

[SawyerTed]

Congratulations on the new mill!

You will get better at manipulating logs fairly quickly.   But there will be one that's a headache every so often.  After you have 15-20 hours on the sawmill you'll begin to see a difference. 

[Stephen1]

Welcome to the Forum and congratulations on the new mill. 
As Ted says after 15-20 hours you will start to get the hang of the mill. After 150-200 you will start to get the hang of actually sawing lumber. After 1500-2000 hrs you are starting to get the hang of producing quality lumber
I saw by myself and I usually leave the arms up to catch everything I push off. Slabs then come off to go to the slab pile. Then I use them to catch my material that needs edging. 
The tires are real tough and I have never had a problem with the tires and I have squeezed them  pretty good sometimes loading some real ugly logs.

[Magicman]

Is there any way to stiffen the feed speed potentiometer? I would have liked a little more drag since I am wearing gloves

First, Congrats on the new LT40.  Time and coordination practice will improve your turning skills and even then you will find a log that simply does not want to cooperate. 

Adding an O ring under the knob will probably dampen the sensitivity. I always wear gloves and it's just another item in becoming familiar with your controls.  I wish you the best.

[SawyerTed]

A felt washer under the knob will firm up the speed control too. 

[WV Sawmiller]

Dogwood,

I ordered my fender Pre-bent from WM so I would not have to use my hydraulics like that. :  :D

I keep my loading arms raised and just low enough I do not hit them (often?) or the flitches I stage on them with the mill so lots of times I have to lower the arms as I add more flitches.

That being said - why are you off loading slabs on that side of the mill? In some place I set up I have to do that but that means carrying them further. If I have an off-bearer/customer there unloading them and he wants to pile them off the end near there I will push them on the bed - not the loading arms as it is reserved for flitches I will process later.

If operating alone I pick up the slabs and throw them over on the other side of the sawdust pile. In fact when sawing at my home I park my tractor with the FEL forks there and I put the slabs on the forks and I stage the finished boards on sawhorse perpendicular to the mill.


 
In this picture you can just barely see the tractor bucket with forks directly behind where I am sawing. On long heavy slabs I never lift them but just slide them on to the forks to reduce the weight I am handling. You can see the sawhorses with finished lumber on the end. (How did that bent up fender get there?) When I finish sawing the logs or the weight gets too great I crank the tractor and take the slabs and edgings to my scrap pile and dump them.


 
Here are finished boards at the end of and perpendicular to my mill. I keep the sawhorses spread wide enough I can get my tractor forks between them to lift and move to wherever they will be stacked and stickered. As with the slabs I often slide the boards on to the stack and never lift them.

I don't understand the speed question. I assume you are turning the knob to speed up or slow down the speed of the head. If not I think that is the problem. You can adjust the speed down to "Not moving" on mine. I use it there sometimes to check that the debarker is working properly. Many sawyers walk along with their hand on the speed knob and adjust as needed and slow down on a knot to speed up when cutting good. You want to run the mill as fast as you can for the wood being cut to reduce the time in the wood and generating more sawdust and more heat to the blade.

I tell people running a sawmill is like teaching someone to turn left while driving up hill with a stickshift. You have to activate the signals, activate the clutch, shift gears, slow down, watch your mirrors all at the same time. After a while those actions all become automatic but it takes time and practice.

Let us know when you saw into those side supports, saw the tip off your claw, leave the rear toeboard up and saw long wedges and roll the log across the mil with the side supports still down. Oh yeah, get a picture of the mill with the tongue 10' in the air because you were setting up and had not put the rear landing gear down when you ran the head to the back. :D :D Of course I have never done any of those things but I have heard of people who did. :

[terrifictimbersllc]

Two good suggestions on stiffening the feed pot already. I was thinking a fat flat rubber washer.  take off the knob, put a washer of the right thickness on, then put the knob back on with a right amount of down pressure, tighten it up.

I never did that, can just take off glove or just get used to how you grip the knob with your glove on.

[OlJarhead]

Congrats on the new mill!  8)

You will get the routine down!

1.  Level the mill somewhat reasonably from to rear
2.  Lower the rear Outrigger to just above the ground and log it in place.
3.  Remove fenders and place under the rear of the mill (some put them forward, I prefer the rear)
4.  Remove the securing chain from the head and raise the head ABOVE 27 inches.
5.  Lower the head catch pin / securing pin
6.  Move the head forward to the front outrigger (at this point you may have the engine running to warm it up which is what I do)
7.  Set rear outriggers nice and tight -- no need to lift the mill!  Just make them tight (have shims handy unless you have fine tune outriggers)
8.  Run the head to the far end / read of the mill
9.  Set the front outriggers nice and tight.
10.  Run the head back and forth a couple times and check each end (opposite of where the head of the mill is).
11.  Lower the loader support legs (black) or 'bases' by lifting the loader control up (like you are raising the loader).
12.  When the lower bases/legs whatever they are called, are fully down walk to the loader and using your body to brace the loader and lift it slightly, remove the chain and carefully set the legs all the way to the ground.  Adjust the ground as needed with a shovel to get both support legs solidly on the ground.
13.  Lower the loader arms, open the log clamp all the way, lower the load turner.

Now you grease the grease points (EVERY DAY), lube the rails, put on a fresh band etc etc and git to eating sawdust!  8)

I might have missed something but you do it enough and it's just wrote

[WV Sawmiller]

   One point in OJH list not mentioned that I often forget is to remove the travel pin from the debarker. You lock it in place while traveling to keep it from swinging. Another point is to lower the rubber sawdust chute from its travel position - I usually get half way through the first cut before I remember that.

  I try to lower the loader arms just enough to clear the head for the first few cuts. If a log rolls back - and one will one of these days, you want the arms high enough to catch and stop it. If you lower them too far the log can get enough momentum to jump out. After the second cut you are pretty safe from them rolling back unless it is a really huge log then you might wait till the 3rd face is cut off.

BTW - this description is when starting fresh as on a mobile set up. You will not have to do most of these steps if you are permanently set up.

   Another step I probably should add is to prepare the site to receive the lumber, slabs and sawdust which would include clearing the area, staging the logs, placing MHE or dunnage where needed and maybe even placing tarps to catch the sawdust.

[Magicman]

Any time that I am turning a "contrary" log, I will raise the loader arms just in case.  Yes, stuff can happen and the first order of business is Safety.  Sawing is second.

[OlJarhead]

Great adds!  I knew I would forget something ;)

Here are a couple BEFORE travel:

1. (thank MM for this one years ago), after setting the head down on the pin give it a slight lift to take up some slack on the chain.
2.  Before traveling turn on the key (do not run engine) and engage the clutch, then turn the key OFF and DISENGUAGE the clutch switch.

Now the clutch is engaged and when you next turn on the key it will disengage thereby getting you ready to start the engine (don't ask me how many times early on I forgot the 'turn the switch off' part  ;D :

[Dogwood Heart]

 Thank you for all of the responses, I was afraid I was going to have to swap the entire pot out for a stiffer one. This is an entirely different ball game from my Lt15. All of the old tips and tricks got superseded by the hydraulics. The only strange moment so far is that the log I was sawing had a bow and when the bow was down the claw turner would not grab it. My dad had to push the claw out with a sticker to get it to bite. Any tips on this? I think I could have moved it with the clamp and gotten it.  
      I know I was sawing weird since I was making firewood and not lumber.  My dad blew up his log splitter engine and needed wood, so I split a log on my lt15 and my dad now refuses to split wood.  We grab a couple logs worth of split trees with the grapple and cut them so they fall into the trailer. We only handle firewood once to throw it into the outdoor boiler. 
     I have people bugging me to cut wood for them so there is some pressure to get up to speed soon.  I am friends with most of them so I don't mind looking like a fool sometimes in front of them.  I have plans already to redo most of my support and material handling equipment to handle the 40.  I have been watching Hobby Hardwood Alabama, thank you YellowHammer, to base these upgrades on.  Would a 15' wide by 30' long lean to be a good size to start? It will be extended to 60' long eventually with both 30' bays clear span.
     I will most certainly add your tips to the setup, saw, and takedown procedure.

[Magicman]

the bow was down the claw turner would not grab it. My dad had to push the claw out with a sticker to get it to bite. Any tips on this?

I have a picture but right now I cannot access my gallery.  Anyway a rope with a hook on the end.  Catch the claw and route the rope over the loader arms so that you can hold the claw out as you energize the hydraulics and release it onto the log.  Works slick.

[cblewis]

Gotta ask. When did you order your mill?

I didn't see it in a post. 

[terrifictimbersllc]

I used to keep a 5 ft long 1" nylon strap in the truck and when i needed to pull the claw back with it, id attach it and have the helper hold the claw back while i raised the claw so that the claw would come up the side of the log. Then he'd drop the strap and id lower the claw to the right place so it would grab. 

[Stephen1]

I use a rubber strap with hooks on each end that I hook on the claw and on then to the loading arm chain. I move the loading arms down to pull the claw out. 

[Dogwood Heart]

It's been a rough break in with the mill.  I've spent two days on the phone with Wood Mizer NC getting my mill right.  Tyler is awesome, he was just up against a red herring or two.  I had my up down sensor not close enough to the magnet, still pending more sawing to confirm that was the issue.  The drive belt was squealing and smoking when idling. Pulled the cover and found some of my new belt. My belt idler bracket was a 3/8 gap when the manual states 1/8 to 1/16. 

 
Thought that was the problem until I saw the spec for the brake band was 4-5 seconds and my blade was stopping in less than one.  I had to move the band 2 inches to get three seconds.  I can understand the sensor and a quarter inch on the other bracket, but 2 Inches is insane.  We only did a couple test cuts at the dealer and found the debarker wasn't even close either.  Since it was my second mill we skipped the rest of the log.  In other news I have to finish an order of board and batten for this Saturday and may have picked up a customer that wants some posts and mantels.  If he likes my milling he may get me two loads of pine for framing lumber.  Of course this is all contingent on price.  

[OH logger]

Sounds somewhat disappointing. Is wood mizer trying to push mills out faster than they can do comfortably? Not pointing fingers just never remember hearing of any of their new mill owners Havin these kind of issues. Hopefully you'll get em worked out. Sure sounds like
They're helping you (rightfully so)

[SawyerTed]

When I picked up the LT35 in 2018 we spent a couple of hours with Tyler, Joe and the Resharp guys.  

We ran the mill about 45 minutes on a couple of small pine logs.  

When we started hooking up to the truck, then was hydraulic oil running out of the box.  Turned out to be a bad casting on one of the valves.  

Woodmizer overnighted the entire valve body, Tyler repaired the mill and delivered it to me two days later.  

Was I happy, no.  But I gave them an opportunity to make it right.  They did.  In the end, preserving the relationship has been of greater benefit than losing my temper.  

Manufacturers have problems sometimes. Participating in the entire the demo and training may be repetitive if you've owned a mill but letting them do the shake down has some benefits. 

[Magicman]

We only did a couple test cuts at the dealer and found the debarker wasn't even close either. Since it was my second mill we skipped the rest of the log.

Skipping any of the dealer shakedown puts the ball in your court.  We even do an entire log saw after a field service.  No skipping.

[Dogwood Heart]

We had an extremely hard birch log that burnt up the blade halfway into the log and called it early, but we did produce about 7-8 boards on the training.  I did not want to break open the expensive, to me, box of blades I just purchased to kill another one. Everything else was covered in depth. I was disappointed that the mill was out of adjustment, but once it was set and going, I was extremely pleased. Tyler was awesome figuring this out over two days since I have to wait until after work to work on it and run into issues. I think the problem was just the factory is behind and trying to push out mills, or the wrong gauge block for the engine hp was grabbed. I know my mill had to wait a week since the truck was full to be shipped. I cut two logs last night and everything ran smoothly. Magic, I learned this lesson and will always perform a dealer shakedown from here on out.  In all I would buy the mill over again, it is the best thing I own, I wish I bought it sooner. 

[WV Sawmiller]

DH,

   Glad you got it figured out. Tyler brought me my mill on Jan 8 about 8 Years ago. It was zero degrees here when he left NC to deliver it but had warmed up to a sultry 5* by the time he arrived. We had 6" of snow on the ground so towed it to the pasture site where I had a log waiting using the ATV. The lube tank was frozen solid and the oil was so thick it backfired one time while trying to start it and blew the spark arrestor 50' where we lost it in the snow but I found it a few days later when it warmed up. Tyler did a good demo and the only problems later were what I had forgotten or questions just did not know to ask. The WM helpdesk were very patient and helped me every time I called.

   BTW - I don't know how to check the stats but you are or at least one of our youngest members so it is good to see some young blood here on the FF. I look forward to seeing your posts.

[Stephen1]

DW remember to check that drive belt tension every week. When you adjust that drive belt  you need to adjust the brake. ( no need to ask how I know) There is an access hole and you need a tension gauge that I believe came with your mill. If not order that and the blade adjustment tool that clips on the blade. 

[OlJarhead]

DW remember to check that drive belt tension every week. When you adjust that drive belt  you need to adjust the brake. ( no need to ask how I know) There is an access hole and you need a tension gauge that I believe came with your mill. If not order that and the blade adjustment tool that clips on the blade.

You do it weekly?  Interesting!  I only check mine when I detect it might be getting loose which can be around 50 hrs or so...but I guess some might run that many hours in a week or two!

[WV Sawmiller]

I am am like OJH in that respect. I only check mine at the 50 hour service and if I encounter problems in a specific log (like a hickory I had a few weeks back). Very seldom do I ever need to adjust mine.