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my new to me Woodmizer LT15

Started by Machinebuilder, March 06, 2021, 01:18:24 PM

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kantuckid

I didn't read this until now but it does drop straight down  with zero angle on that chain. I oil it all the time, including this morning but can look if it matters. I can also go to my mill while on a cell phone and check whatever you want? PM me if that serves a purpose. While on a call I can also mention this and that as I see it on my mill from the 20 years I've owned it. FWIW, I am a professional mechanic and trained in apprenticeship as a millwright so I know machines very well indeed. 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

jpassardi

Mine has the adjusting bracket and bolt on the top like firefighters.
LT15 W/Trailer, Log Turner, Power Feed & up/down
CAT 416 Backhoe W/ Self Built Hydraulic Thumb and Forks
Husky 372XP, 550XPG, 60, 50,   WM CBN Sharpener & Setter
40K # Excavator, Bobcat 763, Kubota RTV 900
Orlan Wood Gasification Boiler -Slab Disposer

Machinebuilder

Quote from: kantuckid on March 30, 2021, 06:00:12 PM
I didn't read this until now but it does drop straight down  with zero angle on that chain. I oil it all the time, including this morning but can look if it matters. I can also go to my mill while on a cell phone and check whatever you want? PM me if that serves a purpose. While on a call I can also mention this and that as I see it on my mill from the 20 years I've owned it. FWIW, I am a professional mechanic and trained in apprenticeship as a millwright so I know machines very well indeed.
Thanks
I'm going to recheck the alignment and see what I can figure out. I asked because the chain does look slightly angled and the thickness of the bracket is about how much interference I have.
The mill is a bit more primitive than what I am used to working on. At work I work on CNC mills and Lathes mostly.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

Machinebuilder

Quote from: jpassardi on March 30, 2021, 07:56:30 PM
Mine has the adjusting bracket and bolt on the top like firefighters.
That's interesting, being on the bottom tightening the bolt tightens the chain, the bolt threads into the bracket.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

Machinebuilder

I haven't worked on the Up/Down mechanism more yet. it appears that between 2002 and 2005 there were some big changes.
I have one crank handle for up/down and back/ forth.

having received the alignment tool, I finished the wheel alignment. I had to adjust the drive wheel vertically about 2 turns.
Then I had to readjust the tracking on the idle wheel.

I installed the new blade guides, worked at adjusting them and was almost finished when I discovered the adjustment arm is not contacting the frame at all. so now I need to undo the guides and fix the arm adustment.

I hope I am discovering most of why it cut really wavy, at this point I realize the blade was almost unsupported.


I'm taking my time on all this and get about 1 hour on it each non rainy day, I had over 7" of rain last week.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

Machinebuilder

 

 °


I was successful. 
I'm still using an old questionable blade but the cuts are straight. 
This was one of my small not so good logs. I'm going to use them to make a pallet to stack boards on
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

Brob1969

Happy the test run was a success! 

I just did an alignment on my mill and replaced the drive chain, and I am now ready to cut my first test log this weekend. 

I appreciated following as you worked through the cutting issues on your mill.
1990 Woodmizer LT40, 18 HP Briggs Twin II
1980 Ford 555 backhoe
1996 John Deere 4475 Skid-Steer

kantuckid

A suggestion: this week when sawing I had the blade support extended toward a relatively narrow cant sawing 2x6's in a stack. I noticed it wobbling a bit and tightened the set screws on the brass sleeve the chromed rod slides in. immediately thereafter I did a blade change and the inside blade guide was a bit loose. Those SS set screws maybe could benefit from some blue Locktite.    
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Machinebuilder

Quote from: kantuckid on April 03, 2021, 11:02:49 AM
A suggestion: this week when sawing I had the blade support extended toward a relatively narrow cant sawing 2x6's in a stack. I noticed it wobbling a bit and tightened the set screws on the brass sleeve the chromed rod slides in. immediately thereafter I did a blade change and the inside blade guide was a bit loose. Those SS set screws maybe could benefit from some blue Locktite.    
That seems to be another difference on the newer mills I have plastic bushings the blade guide arm rides in.
The lock nuts were almost rust seized to the set screws.
That adjustment is a bit tricky to get moving parallel to the saw frame.

EDIT: My mistake, they are bronze/brass bushings not plastic.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: Machinebuilder on March 08, 2021, 11:39:13 AMDoes woodmizer have any good parts manuals? The owners manual doesn't list much.
Yes you can get a complete parts manual showing exploded assembies with all parts numbers and descriptions.  Hardcopy came with both of the mills I purchased new and PDFs by email just for the asking.  The part numbers and diagrams are just like the ones online in their "Shop Parts" tool. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Machinebuilder

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I've been pretty busy with other things around here so i finally got back to the mill.

I put a brand new 4degree blade on and a older oak log I had saved, and got some really nice straight 6/4 boards and a couple 5/4.
Then I put a pretty gnarly piece of cedar an sawed a few about 4/4x6". that disturbed several carpenter bees that had made it their home.

I have ordered a new tension spring, B57 belts and the upgraded clamps. I really don't like the old cam clamps, it's hard to get them set below center on a log, and if the edge isn't really solid they don't set low enough to clear the blade

I'm pretty happy at this point and am ready to move to some better logs now.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

kantuckid

Yes, small logs are hard to hold with these design (screw thread clamps) of log clamps. I often use a sacrificial scrap that extends higher into the blade zone. Also a good technique for a crooked log to keep it away from the mill frame on the other side. On most any decent size logs they work OK and any cant with a squared edge no issues as they are below 4/4 thickness. 
I need to buy a few cedar logs for my own project but hopefully closer than TN.
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Machinebuilder

Well there are times when you know you should stop but keep going anyway.

Today I had the up/down jam all the way at the bottom. while getting it unjammed, the small chain master link clip broke.

I was stupid and thought the one side would hold it till I can get another.

well it didn't and the link broke and then the head slammed to the bottom.

It's on hold until I can get a master link, not happening on a Saturday afternoon.

I may not have tensioned the chain enough and it jumped a tooth.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

Machinebuilder

Quote from: kantuckid on April 17, 2021, 09:18:29 AM
Yes, small logs are hard to hold with these design (screw thread clamps) of log clamps. I often use a sacrificial scrap that extends higher into the blade zone. Also a good technique for a crooked log to keep it away from the mill frame on the other side. On most any decent size logs they work OK and any cant with a squared edge no issues as they are below 4/4 thickness.
I need to buy a few cedar logs for my own project but hopefully closer than TN.
I have an older design clamp than the screw clamp, its a 1/4 turn cam that moves a plate for the clamping.
there is maybe 1/2" stroke on it, you have to try to hold the flat to the stops and get the clamp moved close enough and high enough.
I hope the upgrade to the screw clamp works easier.
I have a couple friends with a few cedar logs, there aren't many around that are big and not in a fence.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

kantuckid

I sent out several feelers to people in KY selling ERC, no responses yet other than a lady in Beatyville, KY who wanted $1,200 for 5 ERC logs. I messaged her and said I'd pay market value but needed the actual sizes and conditions not just a pic of the base cuts. She replied that they were most all 40' long.  :D
I need bigger than a fence post. Need to saw 5 cants 6x6 heartwood for porch posts and ~16-20 railing s 4x4 heartwood by ~8' all. I do get to Knoxville occasionally as one of our sons lives there on Northshore near Krogers & the lake. 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Machinebuilder

Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

kantuckid

Yea, those are sucky indeed.
 Mine are a machine thread with a C-clamp style handle and a post that raises to selected height. Tney would be improved via an acme thread IMO but a mfg.'s cost thing I suppose. They do have limitations with small logs or certain cuts but mostly work OK. Once a cant presents a lower squared edge they engage below 4/4 height. They do encounter the guide width adjuster-> the alu bar when sawing a narrow cant if not positioned such to avoid it. 
Baby that carb on your engine as they are NLA except for Chinese crummy clones. Mine runs on one which is crude replacement at best but it keeps on running, knock on wood...
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

Remle

Quote from: terrifictimbersllc on April 04, 2021, 12:17:50 PM
Quote from: Machinebuilder on March 08, 2021, 11:39:13 AMDoes woodmizer have any good parts manuals? The owners manual doesn't list much.
Yes you can get a complete parts manual showing exploded assembies with all parts numbers and descriptions.  Hardcopy came with both of the mills I purchased new and PDFs by email just for the asking.  The part numbers and diagrams are just like the ones online in their "Shop Parts" tool.
Any one with a Woodmizer sawmill should call the main office in Indiana and set up an account. Then you can go online an see / order any part you need delivered to your door. Many modification's were made to each mill over the production years and be noted by the serial number of each mill in the parts diagram break downs.

Machinebuilder

I did register it with woodmizer, the first time since the original owner in 2002.

After a trip to town and TSC I got it back together, I also bought 10' of 40 chain in case I get annoyed enough to want to replace it.

I finished up the log I started yesterday, it wasn't as good a log as I thought. There was some pretty severe cracks in it.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

Machinebuilder

I have ruined my first blade.

I put a pretty wide oak crotch log on and thought the blade was getting a little dull.

As I was making my last cut I hit a stop that wasn't lowered far enough.

I got that out of my way, on to other mistakes as I learn.

I really understand how the 15hp engine is small for the 26" cut, I slowed way down on my feed to keep the engine rpm up.
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

kantuckid

There's a bunch of steel downstream from your cuts. The logs standards when in down position can be still high enough to encounter the blade if too much debris inside the mill bed. I hit one after installing bearings to enhance log rolling as they stick up slightly more than when they were old style flat steel bars. 
Also the blade guide (not blade) hits my type of log holders if they are in a certain position. When edging narrow stuff like 1x4's it takes caution. Also beware when sawing with low with a blade that's on it last legs of sharpness so a dive downward doesn't make it into scrap. 
Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

firefighter ontheside

Quote from: Machinebuilder on April 21, 2021, 01:38:46 PM
I have ruined my first blade.

I put a pretty wide oak crotch log on and thought the blade was getting a little dull.

As I was making my last cut I hit a stop that wasn't lowered far enough.

I got that out of my way, on to other mistakes as I learn.

I really understand how the 15hp engine is small for the 26" cut, I slowed way down on my feed to keep the engine rpm up.
And it won't be the last time.  Welcome to the club.
Woodmizer LT15
Kubota Grand L4200
Stihl 025, MS261 and MS362
2017 F350 Diesel 4WD
Kawasaki Mule 4010
1998 Dodge 3500 Flatbed

DDW_OR

Quote from: Machinebuilder on April 21, 2021, 01:38:46 PM
.........I really understand how the 15hp engine is small for the 26" cut, I slowed way down on my feed to keep the engine rpm up.
also learning what needs up-grading
"let the machines do the work"

Machinebuilder

I've been have some fun sawing.  I got some really interesting boards that I forgot to upload pictures of.

I friend needed a couple 2x6x10' to remount a flatbed on his Grand dad's '53 Ford.

We ran into a small problem with that, it was a 14' log and the far end was about 1/2" wide.
I rechecked the level on the bed and found a small twist, that seems to have fixed it.

Last nigh I loaded a 10' 24" red oak, I had to trim a bit when the blade guide hit,
I messed up and popped the blade off the wheel trying to back up.
I got it back together and then I ran into the big problem.

I could not roll the log, I have the 60" Woodmizer cant hook and with it on my shoulder the hook just tore the bark off.

I then thought I could use my Bobcat, I ended up shifting the bed, at that point I unloaded the log so I can relevel again.

How should I roll a big heavy log like that?
Dave, Woodmizer LT15, Husqvarna 460 and Stihl 180, Bobcat 751, David Brown 770, New Holland TN60A

kantuckid

My choices: alone- I often use a nylon strap wrapped around the log then hooked to my cheapo HF chain hoist that hands on a small beam behind the mill mtd. via a short piece of chain-easy but somewhat slow. HF hoists been hanging there for many years now.  beats a trip to a back doctor, etc.. At my age I often use help on logs I once twirled around solo-such is life?  
others do similar using a tractor instead of a hoist but log must revolve smoothly as you learned. 
When I have a helper it's two cant hooks no strap. 
Having converted my older style log standards by addition of the double bearings helps a bunch! My old posts comment on that conversion-takes longer to drill them than the rest of the job. 
I also turn a log to my first cut position when it's still poised on the forks above the bed prior to dumping it off. Beware! of dumping the big boys from too high as you could jostle the mill bed too much! They turn easily on the forks with a cant hook. Steel tubing cheaters are allowed in this game of grunt work. :D
Really large logs beyond my FEL lift capacity I sit next to the WM log ramps and use my forks like pin ball flippers to raise onto the bed if no helper around. 

Kan=Kansas;tuck=Kentucky;kid=what I'm not

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