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Rebuilding an 044

Started by KyLogger, September 04, 2012, 05:44:55 AM

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KyLogger

I blew up my 044 a while back and replaced her with my 576, and I like the 576. BUT.....I really would like my 044 back to goin. Anyhow, I pulled it almost completely apart, and come to find out somebody had wrung the head off one of the bolts that holds the case halves together. Is drilling it out my only option?? If I do and retap the hole would a slightly larger bolt be an issue? Its the middle bolt on the front (muffler end) of the case.

And secondly, I would like some input as to how and what to build this saw with. If someone could walk me through the porting process that would be awsome. This will be my first complete saw rebuild and I wanna take my time and make this saw a HD Worksaw. GIVE ME INPUT GUYS!!!


Tom
I only work old iron because I secretly have a love affair with my service truck!

Al_Smith

It you cooked the top end you take a chance you sucked some tramp aluminum into the crankcase which could sieze a bearing .So you 'd just a well do a case split and check out or replace the crankshaft bearings .

Now to do a split you either have to have the tool or heat the bearing pockets and tap each case half off .Once you get it apart unless the 5 mm by 20 bolt is broken off deep inside the hole it should back out .

A case split is not a big deal weather you have the specialty tools or not just something that baffles people who have never done it before .

I could elaborate the process but until you get the thing apart I'll hold off .At that time if needed I can do a thread on my method which works just as well as any of which I have pictures already down loaded .

As far as an 044 ,they're pretty good saws and worth rebuilding because unfortunately they don't make them any more .

T Welsh

KyLogger, As Al said, Rebuilding is the easy part, doing it right the first time is a little harder! Check your bottom end very carefully and make sure the bearings are good, replace the seals!The ethanol in the gas that we have been getting in the last 5 years eats at the rubber seals and gas lines. They are cheap compared to burning down another jug and piston. Buy a new jug and piston and rings and gaskets and wrist pin and bearing from Stihl. My trick to get a rounded screw out is that if I can grind the head off it and split the cases afterwards,Its simply a matter off a pair of vise grips or pliers to back the remained of the screw out of the hole and replace with a new screw.If not grind a straight slot in it and back it out with a screw drivers or chisel. To get increased performance out of a new rebuild take a good sharp round file and smooth all rough edges off all transfer ports and then polish with 400 grit sand paper any rough surfaces in the intake and exhaust ports,Then install the gaskets and trim any protruding fiber material off so that there is no obstruction in the intake or exhaust posts. The 044 is my favorite go to saw,I have 2 and they both pull like no ones business. If you need more help just ask.Tim

KyLogger

Great info, I will try to post pics. I will definitely be asking questions. If anyone has any spare parts for an 044 let me know I would like to go through the whole saw and address all the issues: broken fuel tank handle assembly, chewed up brake cover etc...... I really need this saw back up and running. As of a 5 weeks ago I started logging full time and have had my fair share of equipment breakdowns, blown up saw and as of late rain (though much needed) so as you can imagine another $1,000 saw is out of the question. And I still LOVE my life!!!

Thanks guys,

Tom

I only work old iron because I secretly have a love affair with my service truck!

Al_Smith

My favorite of the Stihl line is the 038 mag which was replaced by the 044 .Now the good ole 44 was an icon all my itself I can't take that away from it .

The good news is at this point there are plenty of used repair parts available so a rebuild is not economically out of the question .OEM on the top end is probabley a better but more expensive choice than after market .But if you get 5-7 years out of it the cost will be forgotten .

Now guys like me that don't need a saw to make a living if they know what they are doing can do rebuilds with used parts .The less experianced however that need that saw should consider using good OEM parts or better quality after market .That saw has to be running or you're out of business .

KyLogger

I planned on purchasing all new crucial parts, piston and jug, bearings (there is alot of alum. in the crank case) gasket set etc.... Just wanted to get some spare parts as well as the tank/grip. I bought the 576 as a replacement, but my next biggest saw is a 361 (which is an awesome saw in it's own right)  but just not big enough for big hardwood all day.

Tom
I only work old iron because I secretly have a love affair with my service truck!

T Welsh

Tom, Your head seems to be on your shoulders where it should be! Take it from me, pretty parts on a logging saw doesn't make it run any better, My favorite 044 is an ugly duckling and no body would ever think to use it if you saw it in a line up of saws. Until they hear and see it run, then everyone wants to use it.These era of saws are well balanced and run like a freight train. Tear it down and assess what you need as in bearings ,seals and top end. replace old impluse line and get a carb rebuild kit and new fuel line and air filter and spark plug for it while its being overhauled. It going to run around 3 to 4 hundred depending on what you need. But in the end if done right you will have a new saw in an old saws cases. Tim

Al_Smith

Even if for some unknown reason you can't get the case bolt out there options .Often times you can flea bay a good used crank case often with the crank shaft still in it for 50-80 bucks .Scott ,( chainsawr )might have one too ,another option .

Additionally often times either flea bay or just looking around you can find brand new OEM parts somebody has a stash of at discounted prices .Lots of options here they made a lot of 044/440's .

AdkStihl

Before you order parts you will FIRST need to find out if your 044 is a 10mm or 12mm saw.

8)
J.Miller Photography

Al_Smith

According to Baileys that model prior to serial number 29-382-283 was 10 MM after is 12 MM .Why they ever built that thing with a 10 MM piston pin is a great mystery .

caz

If ya have to get the bolt out to split the cases you can always Tig weld another bolt to it to back it out, we do it all the time at work good luck

joe_indi

Tom,
This has happened to me several times with the MS460. I think the problematic screw for you is the one that sits in the bar seat, near the studs.Right?
What I do is have my neighboring welding shop's patient arc welder 'flash' an arc rod on the head of the screw at low ampere and then hold it in place till it cools enough not too much.With the welding set switched off.
The flash joins the rod and screw and the heat expands the mag-al enough to loosen the screw in the thread and using a plier on the welding rod the screw can be unscrewed.
At times the first attempt might not work but the second or third should do it.
Attempts to drill out the screws have had disastrous endings.The bit moves a little bit and you are into the mag-al. End of crankcase.
Right now your saw is a dead duck. In your position I would somehow try to salvage it to a working condition before I get it to fly.

Joe

Joe

KyLogger

The culprit is in the font (muffler) side of case about midways, has a long tapered groove before the hole. It is broke way up in there no way for me to get a rod in there unless it was really small. I think I can leave it in there until case is separated. And now for the million dollar "How dumb is Tom?" question. How do I crack the case? I read something about special tool and or heat???? Anyone care to walk me through the process. My feeble mind is in need of assistance, and I don't think my BIGGER HAMMER philosophy will work too well on this little project.  ;)

Tom
I only work old iron because I secretly have a love affair with my service truck!

joe_indi

Tom,
Quote from: KyLogger on September 06, 2012, 06:44:35 AM
And now for the million dollar "How dumb is Tom?" question. How do I crack the case?

Tom



Though Stihl has two tools for the job,one for each side of the crankcase, both of which I do have, I find its easier to use this tool which I got made by the local tool shop.It works on both sides.


Joe

Al_Smith

Since the crankcase is full of tramp aluminum he's going to have to split the case any way .

You can often "Peck" a broken bolt out using a tiny prick punch .If you don't have a tiny punch a small drill bit sharpened in the shape of a punch will work .You need something made of hard steel to work .Just gently tap around the periphery of the broken bolt it should back out .----junk yard dog trivia 101 ---

Al_Smith

Well there's a case puller or heat .First peel the saw down to the bones .Then what I use is an electric heat gun .You heat the bearing pockets a few minutes on side at a time .Either gently tap on the crankshaft with a dead blow hammer or tap it on a wooded topped work bench .Not like driving a railraod spike now or heaven forbid a metal hammer .It might take a few heat cycles but it will come off .You have to do both sides now .

Al_Smith

Okay now if every thing went okay you have the case split and the crankshaft out .Put the crankshaft in the freezer over night .Nine times out of ten all it will take is a thump on a wooden work bench to get the bearings off .

If they don't slip off you got about three choices .A bearing puller will work but you are on the outer race and it will ruin the bearing .Sometimes depending on the saw a wedge the same type that used to seperate Morris taper drill chucks will work used on the inner race but it's hard to get to .If it doesn't have plastic keepers on the balls you can gently heat the inner race but don't try to get it red hot .All it takes is about 300 degrees .Do it fast and thump it on the work bench .You want to get-er-done before the heat swells  the crankshaft .

Al_Smith

Last part ,bearing and bolt it back together .Several methods again .Freeze the crankshaft again .Heat the bearing up a tad and use a tight fitting sleeve of some type,deep wheel socket whatever to tap only on the inner race and seat the bearings on the crankshaft .Back in the freezer a few hours .Now heat the bearing pockets one side at a time and tap the case back over the bearing .If it goes hard it's not hot enough .Remember it only takes about 250-300 degrees .Don't forget the gasket and do likewise the other side .If you did everything correctly it should rotate without any binding .

Another method as per Stihl if the bearings have a metal cage .Freeze the bearings ,heat the case and seat the bearings in the case first .Crankshaft frozen again ,heat the inner race of the bearing with a big soldering iron then one side at a time insert the cold crankshaft .I've used both methods myself but prefer the first .

Just remember you're dealing with high speed ball bearings and don't beat the snot of them with a hammer .Just a little tap with a soft hammer or a block of wood .Really there's nothing to it and it's not a race just take your good old time .

KyLogger

Much obliged! They are giving rain tomorrow so I may open this can of worms........I will report back when I screw something up :D

Tom
I only work old iron because I secretly have a love affair with my service truck!

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