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Portable sawmill modifications for more ground clearance?

Started by FountainMontain, August 01, 2021, 10:49:20 PM

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Crusarius


Tacotodd

If you're worried about mill swaying then you can do this. Spring over swap AND fabricate a pan hard bar. VERY little sway at the mill like that. Early lift truck ideas and such.
Trying harder everyday.

Resonator

You'll want to make custom fenders too if you run those tires, you don't want to sling rocks onto the mill. Also you'll want to take those wheels off when milling, so the outriggers will go down far enough. 
Under bark there's boards and beams, somewhere in between.
Cuttin' while its green, through a steady sawdust stream.
I'm chasing the sawdust dream.

Proud owner of a Wood-Mizer 2017 LT28G19

Lasershark

Quote from: Resonator on August 04, 2021, 01:39:13 PM
You'll want to make custom fenders too if you run those tires, you don't want to sling rocks onto the mill. Also you'll want to take those wheels off when milling, so the outriggers will go down far enough.

I respectfully disagree since I always dig a hole for the higher-elevation wheel to drop into in order level the mill laterally while the FAOs handle the longitudinal adjustments, its easiest to do while the mill is still connected to the truck hitch. This prevents the FAOs from lifting the wheels off the ground, which I feel should be avoided at all costs. Since you have larger diameter wheels, its probably necessary to dig two holes, with the higher one deeper. 
2020 LT-50 Wide, 38 HP Gas, with debarker, lubemiser and operator's seat,  2002 Dodge Ram, Echo chainsaw, Ogam multi-rip Gang saw, Cook Manufacturing Sharpener/Setter Combo.  RS-2 resaw attachment.

Southside

Quote from: Lasershark on August 04, 2021, 09:07:11 PMThis prevents the FAOs from lifting the wheels off the ground, which I feel should be avoided at all costs


The WM operating manual calls for the wheels to always be in contact with the ground when sawing.  They even have a special outrigger kit you need to buy if you want to remove the axle.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
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taylorsmissbeehaven

I spent 20 years piddling around building a house up a terrible logging road in the mountains of TN. When I went to sell it I had to improve the road a bit to keep from scaring potential buyers off. I took my little TC 30 and a box blade up there and cut and scraped for a couple days and was blown away by the difference it made. Why did I wait 20 years to do this?? If you are building up there and gonna be using that road regularly I would put my time and money into the road. JMTC Brian
Opportunity is missed by most because it shows up wearing bib overalls and looks like work.

Joe Hillmann

Quote from: taylorsmissbeehaven on August 05, 2021, 07:04:55 AM
I spent 20 years piddling around building a house up a terrible logging road in the mountains of TN. When I went to sell it I had to improve the road a bit to keep from scaring potential buyers off. I took my little TC 30 and a box blade up there and cut and scraped for a couple days and was blown away by the difference it made. Why did I wait 20 years to do this?? If you are building up there and gonna be using that road regularly I would put my time and money into the road. JMTC Brian
A box blade can be an amazing tool if you know how to use and adjust it.  The main trick is to take small bites and take many passes.  Where people tend to have problems is trying to move more dirt than the machine has traction to handle.

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