Ok mobile sawyers..... this could get contentious.....
My trusty ole 1/2 ton 98 Chev Suburban 4x4 blew its transmission yesterday pulling a heavy chipper up a steep snowy road. The tranny was on its way out, but the lack of traction and tire spinning, engine revving pushed it over the top. I've got to get it fixed, but I'm thinking the Burb is on it's last legs....door latches are failing, the rear barn doors are held shut at the moment by a ratchet strap until I can get the ice out of the catches and repair them......
Now that I'm hauling the mill around and trailers full of logs, etc I'm thinkin I need more snoose in the goose and getting a used 3/4ton 4x4. The Burbin has pulled a lot, sometimes too much, and done it well. But I'm thinking it's time to own a pickup again. Any faves out there? And recommendations? Any steer-clear-and-avoids? I had a used 2001 Dodge Ram diesel 4x4 for a very short while. It was a lemon. Kept putting $$ into it and it never ran great. Transmission and fuel issues haunted me until I could unload it. It was also a tad far off the ground.....I've got a bad back and hiking in and out of that think made it worse.
Ok....Go! popcorn_smiley
I have a WM LT25 that weighs in at 3k lbs. I pull it with a Silverado 1500 with a cap. To the best of my knowledge, the Suburban and Tahoe use many of the same parts. The 1500 with the 5.3L and automatic transmission is rated to pull 3300 lbs without electric brakes and 7700 lbs with brakes. So I'm not sure I'm much help in steering you away from something the same size, a full body 1/2 ton pick-up. Based on the amount of sawdust in the truck cab, I am glad it is a pick-up truck and not a SUV. I can't imagine how much saw dust would be in there if it was a SUV.
My mill mover is my 2003 1500 Chevy Silverado ext cab, 4WD.
The truck has 159,000 miles on it and still going strong.
Does the job pretty well, but when going into the woods, I sometimes use the customers tractor!
I use a Ram 1500 4x4 but rarely take the mill on the road anymore. Instead, I haul on my trailer with the same truck.
Bob
2001 F-350 4x4 7.3L PSD, crew cab long bed, 133K. It's in charge of the mill.
Unless the tire treads get filled with mud. Once had customer pull me out of his yard with a Chevy. ::) ::) ::)
3/4t f250 or farm tractor.
I have three Dodge rams, a 98 4x4 3/4t, 2 2006 4x4 1t srw, and a 2005 4x4 dually. I guess you could say I'm partial to the 5.9 Cummins powered Rams.
I am a Cummins guy myself. I have a 08 3500HD 6.7, long wheel base with a 10' flatbed, 4door 4x4, 6speed manual, and 124k miles.
79 Chevy K-30 dually,84 Suburban diesel k-15,and 92 dodge w300 diesel. All do a fine job unless in a very difficult off road then the one tons work very well compared to the Suburban. The mil they are pulling is a 97 LT40-HDD that supposedly weighs in at 6500lbs according to the sticker on mill, never put it on a scale. Long ago had to move mill a few times with a 60 cj 5 it was ok but a little light for the job. But 4x4 in almost a requirement if you are getting off hardtop.
I use my F250 FX4, but only because the ¾ ton is needed for my truck camper.
Any ½ ton class 4X4 preferably with limited slip is plenty enough truck.
I pull my mill and every other trailer with a '99 F250 S\D with a 7.3 turbo deisel. It's 4x4 and extend a cab with the eight foot box. For some reason those boxes are getting hard to find with the four door trucks. I had having a sheet of plywood sticking out of the box ::)
The 3\4 ton trucks are just built stronger and can pull and haul a bigger load safer and easier.
When my 96 2500 Chevy got to be a bit too ragged, I stepped up to a GMC 2500 duramax. I don't think I can ever go back to a gasser. It also handles the 32' fifth wheel and the 24' gooseneck. I can pull the loaded gooseneck with the same fuel the gasser used when empty.
I used to use a 2004 Chev 2500HD for the mill which worked fine, then bought a 98 Cummins diesel last spring with a contractors box on it, doors on the sides. I really like that box for going on the road and I don't have to unload anything when as I use the Chev for other stuff. Steve
Those early 24v cummins that you speak of are a poor representation of a Cummins engine. It really hurt that diesel's name for a couple of years. The lift pumps were prone to fail, causing the injection pump to do all the pumping... well, we all know what happens after that, bam a whole new IP. Anyhow, the 12v Cummins were great, and so were the 4th generation trucks.
I have owned a 12v, loved it, but my 2000 7.3psd is my new mill puller. A chip on them makes a world of differnece in power not to mention economy. Mine gets 24mpg on the open highway unloaded, my brothers 03' 7.3 gets 24.5mpg. These numbers are with performance tunes.... well worth the investment!
96' Bronco it pulls the mill and both my little trailer and the heavy one I put logs on.
Sean P.
98 chevy, v6, 1/2 ton, ex cab, short bed, 4x4, manual trany, 300,007 miles.
The mill is a load for the truck and a 3/4 ton in the same configuration is on the wish list ;) but would not pass up a 3/4 ton 4x4 van.
The shorter wheel base helps when setting the mill in tight places, 4x4 is a must, just not a fan of auto trany's when headed down a steep hill with a good load pushing :o
1992 12 valve Cummins. It can pull anything. It isn't a speed machine, when stock. A few little add ons and you can get them keeping up with the other trucks.
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That was the first week I had the truck, I think.
'87 Chevy flatbed. 4WD & chains. Manual transmission, elect brakes. Beat up, but it does the job. One look at it and the customer knows I'm not overcharging! I also use it to haul logs & tractor. Downside (other than aesthetics) is lousy mileage.
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How heavy is your mill & how much to you move it? What else do you pull?
Another Cummins Dodge owner here. '06 3/4 ton 4x4 Big Horn. Only real problem in 140k miles has been a u-joint in the driveshaft. A few other minor annoyances, but overall I'm very happy. Hardly can tell I have a sawmill behind me. Also have a '96 1 ton dually Cummins, but haven't had it on the road yet, so I don't know if there will be any weak spots. Both trucks are standard transmissions.
I do recall there were some issues with certain Cummins blocks having a problem when being cast. Also supposedly the older automatic transmissions were weak.
08 Chevy 2500 HD Crew Cab. I have the 6.0 liter. It easily pulls the trailer with my mill on it down the interstate at 70 mph and will haul any load of logs I can put on my trailer. You dont want to use it as your everyday driver though unless you own your own gas station. Best I ever achieved was 15.0 mpg at 55 mph with a 25 mph tail wind. The 6.0 liters like gas. My father's slightly older Chevy Duramax diesel will out pull mine and get better mileage, but I have heavier stock springs for hauling, and he's had to spend a bunch of $ to have the injectors replaced. Apparently theyre prone.
1997 Quad cab F superduty (that years F450) with an 11ft. utility box.
Another Ram Guy. 2013 2500 crew 4x4 Cummins.
I mainly use a 02 3500 Dodge with Cummins and/or 97 2500 Dodge Cummins
Good read so far! Thanks for the replies. I'm kinda partial to Rams myself which is why I was so let down by my 01. Being in New England frames are gone in a few years except on rare trucks. The 01 must have been a plow truck because the front end was very corroded--even the valve covers.
My current manual mill only weighs 2000lb....I can get it in almost anywhere. But someday...when I upgrade...I'd like an AC-36 and they weigh in at 7K stock. I also haul a lot of hay during the summer....the Burban is barely up to hauling 6ton on a 5ton trailer..... I'd also like to haul a trailer with a grapple loader some day. So Thinking 5th wheel.. The horses would like a bigger trailer too.....
Got the bad news this AM before heading off to harvest applewood from an abandoned orchard...... $2K to fix the Burbs tranny....but it could be done in 2 days. I'd better get some saw jobs fast! I did a quick check on-line and in Maine older suburbans in worse shape are selling for more than I paid for mine 10 years ago on the west coast. So the 2K is worth it, for now....I guess......
"Got the bad news this AM before heading off to harvest applewood from an abandoned orchard...... $2K to fix the Burbs tranny....but it could be done in 2 days. I'd better get some saw jobs fast! I did a quick check on-line and in Maine older suburbans in worse shape are selling for more than I paid for mine 10 years ago on the west coast. So the 2K is worth it, for now....I guess......"
Have you looked at a Jasper reman?? I had 700R4 chevy box rebuilt, Shop did a good Job, but a Jasper box would have been less expensive and just as good.
For transport I use a 1/2 ton Ram 2WD with a 6. 1 Lucas 827 loaded, Im building an aluminum deck trailer to haul the saw carriage in the future.
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1998.5 Dodge 2500 cummins engine ext cab long box 4x4 straight pipe roar. auto trans :-[ but does the job. has 187k miles on her. I put a raptor frrp lift pump in and have had no issues yet, have had this truck for 40k miles or better, since 2011. Before this I had a 1989 ram w250 cummins. Loved that thing, got hit by a plow truck when I was broke down on the road, the starter went and buddy was towing me to his shop there in lafayette ny. totalled the plow truck, my truck was pirt near fine, just bent the frame a bit, so I wedged it up against a tree and come-a-long'd the frame back into proper form. Only reason I sold that truck was cause I upgraded to newer dodge diesel. They do a fine job towing the mill. I get 21 mpg with mine on backroads/highways. My older first gen got much better mpgs. My current rig has the 53 block (the one known to crack) a salvage title, and the vp-44 injection pump. As long as you keep it well lubricated and make sure the lift pump is good, shud be allright. If I were you I'd look into a common rail 5.9 dodge 3/4 or 1 ton. They can have some serious grunt. I overload my dodge on a regular basis and it does great. I had a load of 16' 1x12's dangling out of the bed one day delivering it 30 miles away to a customer. Dodge didn't know it was there. Biggest downfall is the auto trans. They dont put the power to the ground as good as a manual.
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86 chevy 1 ton 96 chevy dually 81 or 83(i forgot) ford 1/2 ton 4x4 if its very wet guess you can tell i dont trade trade trucks to often :D but i wish i could find a 1ton 4x4 van but havent been able to yet, must be manual transmission last truck i had with auto trans i put 3 in about 15 months time but i do load heavy have had 60 7x9 ties on truck and trailer combined. btw my newest truck has over 230,000 miles on it (thats why so many trucks) :D :D :D
1992 FORD F-250 4x4, 7.3 n/a idi, ZF-5 speed, 3.55 gears, HB200 Hydrabed haybed, reg cab, long wheelbase. ;D
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Quote from: dgdrls on January 12, 2015, 06:28:04 PM
"Got the bad news this AM before heading off to harvest applewood from an abandoned orchard...... $2K to fix the Burbs tranny....but it could be done in 2 days. I'd better get some saw jobs fast! I did a quick check on-line and in Maine older suburbans in worse shape are selling for more than I paid for mine 10 years ago on the west coast. So the 2K is worth it, for now....I guess......"
Have you looked at a Jasper reman?? I had 700R4 chevy box rebuilt, Shop did a good Job, but a Jasper box would have been less expensive and just as good.
For transport I use a 1/2 ton Ram 2WD with a 6. 1 Lucas 827 loaded, Im building an aluminum deck trailer to haul the saw carriage in the future.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/20727/IMG_0629.JPG)
Never thought of a Reman.....but, just checked Jasper website and the trans alone without labor is $400 more than quoted for the same thing rebuilt by a local shop, including labor. Good thing I can tow my mill with the Subaru right now....I've got to do a couple of jobs before I can get transmission fixed.....
I used to use a 1980 GM half-ton 2WD diesel. It did just fine, just don't expect to win any races. In the winter I had a steel frame that bolted down in the very back of the box and held 9 concrete blocks. The extra 400 pounds well back of the rear axle made a big difference. Carried chains in the winter, but rarely had to use them.
When I could no longer get parts for the diesel, I switched to a 2001 F-150 4x4. I hauls the mill faster but I hate the high sides. Now I need a $%#*&^% stepladder to reach over to the center of the box.
Quote from: Brucer on January 13, 2015, 12:53:59 AM
I used to use a 1980 GM half-ton 2WD diesel.
When I could no longer get parts for the diesel
No parts avail. for those 5.7's anymore??
This should get a chuckle.
Got a towbar fitted to my tow wagon today ;)
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The little hatchback actually has plenty of power, but tow weight is limited by your ability to stop it once you do get it moving. But it will tow the Peterson on a utility trailer just fine. :)
I use our F-350 4x4 SRW with the 7.3L. We got a deal on the truck because its a XL crew cab with 8' box and I don't think anyone wanted. The back seat is great to put tools and such out of the weather. The vinyl interior is nice to take the leaf blower and blow out all the sawdust.
Only complaint is the truck long and turns about the same as a tour bus. This can be a pain if trying to back into a tight area.
Plenty of good old 3/4 to 1 ton Fords out there with the 7.3, that would be my first choice for a mill hauler.
Quote from: Finn1903 on January 13, 2015, 02:05:08 PM
I use our F-350 4x4 SRW with the 7.3L. We got a deal on the truck because its a XL crew cab with 8' box and I don't think anyone wanted. The back seat is great to put tools and such out of the weather. The vinyl interior is nice to take the leaf blower and blow out all the sawdust.
Only complaint is the truck long and turns about the same as a tour bus. This can be a pain if trying to back into a tight area.
Plenty of good old 3/4 to 1 ton Fords out there with the 7.3, that would be my first choice for a mill hauler.
X2 ;D
My mill doesn't leave the farm, so I just use the RTV. ;D
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I am headed out next week on a ~180 mile road trip. That is 180 miles one way. ;D
Dave, is that a 1100?
1140CPX. The front of the bed folds up and there is another bench seat underneath. It's the CrewCab version. :D
Quote from: Magicman on January 13, 2015, 03:14:19 PM
I am headed out next week on a ~180 mile road trip. That is 180 miles one way. ;D
Magic if you take that shreveport job and don't stop by here, I'm gonna be a little bent out of shape ;D Plenty of accomodations.
Nope, headed in the complete opposite direction. ;D
Quote from: JB Griffin on January 13, 2015, 12:57:11 AM
[No parts avail. for those 5.7's anymore??
Lots of parts available -- just not the one I needed. The governor in the injector pump disintegrated right on schedule and there were no longer stocked. The DanG things broke about every 80,000 km (50,000 miles). I could've got a used one from a scrap dealer but chances were it would break pretty soon after.
I should have mentioned as well that I beefed up the rear springs and put a huge auxiliary transmission cooler in series with the existing one.
I use a 1994 ford super duty, 14' dump bed, 7.3 international engine. Not real good on gas(diesel?) mileage but I wouldnt expect it to be.
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Good to know Brucer, but its not like I'm gonna be buying one, like, ever. :D
2004 Silverado 2wd. I am careful where I go off road, unless there is a tractor close by.
Farmingsawyer, I have a complete and running 95 Tahoe parts truck if you need some stuff. The rear barn doors are beautiful. I will be removing the front clip and front doors in the spring for use on my truck but other than that it almost too nice to part out. Hit me up if you need something. ;)
I might just Boxygen... One of my rear barn doors is slightly bent and doesn't close anymore. I'm gonna try to gently pull it back into shape....if I don't shatter the glass. I've got to fix the latches too.....both froze up and the plastic parts gave way. 2nd set of barn doors on this rig. Pith of it is, the DanG things are welded on......
These are not the originals to the truck. They are very nice. They were put on about a year ago after the rear window was shattered on one door. They are maroon and rust free and function perfectly. You wont be disappointed. They came from the junkyard. They actually have a suburban tag on them, not Tahoe. The pins will easily come out since they haven't been in that long. I'll shoot you a PM.
imagine pulling a WM LT30 with a little subaru brat? That's what I started with. Graduated to a 3/4 ton dodge a few years later. Trouble is I always overload every truck I use. Popped U joints numerous times on the dodge trying to haul too much weight.
My brother uses a '02 Nissan Frontier to tow his sawmill. It has a 3.3L v6 and claims 5000lb towing capacity, but on any decent hill you have to force the automatic into 1st gear to keep going. The only good thing about it is it's 4WD and didn't cost as much as a full-size pickup. It tows the mill fine and brakes safely (with electric brakes), but you just have to get used to a line of cars behind you going up any steep grade.
I tow my mill with nothing (except the Nissan when we bought it) because none of the trailer wiring works and we could make better use of it as a stationary mill.
We do have a real truck though, a '99 F550 that is used mostly for hauling lumber because at best it gets 10 mpg unloaded. And it's 2WD, so we've needed the Nissan occasionally to get it unstuck. Reading what everyone else has, I can see that 4WD is a must.
'06 Chevy 1/2ton and homemade rack.
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Loaded up and ready for a road trip tomorrow. ;D
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Tools, saws, spares etc in the hatchback
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My trailer wont be ready till next week some time, but the builder lent me one of his rental / loaner units.
The tow capacity of the little Toyota is limited by it's weight. About 1300 kg (2800 lb), so no point getting a giant trailer.
That is a neat rig Ian. 8)
Quote from: Magicman on February 05, 2015, 09:24:01 AM
That is a neat rig Ian. 8)
Ian, you are the Magicman of New Zealand. :)
I use my 2004 gmc 2500hd 4x4 diesel. Maybe over kill but it goes anywhere I need it to.