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Countyline Log Splitter? Best Budget Splitter?

Started by GaTrapper, January 21, 2022, 12:58:26 PM

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GaTrapper

I am in the market for my first log splitter. I'm looking for something reliable that is simple to use and work on if needed.

Is there anything that can compare to the Countyline log splitters with the Kohler engine?

Thoughts and input is appreciated! 

mike_belben

Box store splitters are all about the same.  Ive seen many identical parts with several brands and i bet they all come from the same alibaba connection.  Get the biggest one you can afford and cross your fingers is my opinion. 

If you wanted a really good american one youd have a lot of money and a long wait tied up these days. 
Praise The Lord

GaTrapper

Being in the south I don't have to burn a lot of wood each winter. It's been hard to justify buying a $3000 plus splitter.  

Are there any American made splitters that are reasonably priced?

btulloh

Check out craigslist and Facebook marketplace for used splitters. I picked up the splitter I'm using now for $350 a couple years ago and it foes what I need. To get one that cheap means it might have some age and be a bit ugly, but I've never had to replace a hose or fix anything on this one except the tires. Coulda fixed the existing tires but I opted to just buy wheels and mounted tires. (I've wasted a lot of time in the past chasing leaks in small pneumatic tires.)
HM126

beenthere

GATrapper
QuoteAre there any American made splitters that are reasonably priced?

What is "reasonably priced" for you?  Might be quite different for others. 

Bought mine new 37 years ago and thought it was "reasonably priced" at $800. USA made, quality exceptional, on its second 8hp engine. 
Buying new, only have available the splitters that tilt up to split vertical. They are a pain (IMO) to work around when horizontal. Not a picnic when vertical either.

btulloh has a good suggestion.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

stavebuyer

The Countyline splitter is a decent value. I bought one for personal use to clean up after a major ice storm and split 50 full cords over several seasons. Added the optional side tray for catching re-splits. Zero repairs or breakdowns.

Biggest downside is the fat ram mounted wedge. I prefer a push plate on the ram and a fixed wedge so the next piece can clear the wedge. With the wedge on the ram the stuck round retracts with the cylinder.

TSC usually offers than $100 off at the beginning of every fall.

There are better units built; but nowhere near the same price point.

sawguy21

What are you splitting and how big are the rounds? Are you wanting to quarter them? In our softwoods a 20 ton works well for many people, if quartering more power and a bigger ram are generally required. Your hardwoods need more than the minimum but you should be able to pick up an Oregon or Echo/Bearcat 25-30 ton for under 2 grand, those are two I am familiar with. If speed is of the essence look at SuperSplit or similar designs. Whatever you do buy American! The cheap imports use non standard hydraulic components, replacement parts are a nightmare and imo the engines are junk.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

DMcCoy

I bought a Troy Built 27T years ago at Lowes.  Honda engine 2 speed pump.  Have split 30-40 cords with it and it's still going strong.  I did polish (grind!) the cast wedge to a smooth finish, it was really rough!

thecfarm

I would buy that unit.
I bought one kinda like that many years ago. I put some wood through that thing!!!
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

fabandfirewood

we use a 25t country line thats hooked up to a skid steer. it gets really good cycle times and splits anything we put on it without any problems. we have spilt 20 inch knoty oak with the 4 way on it just fine. sadly they stopped selling that model and only sell the ones that have their own engine. if we could find used second one we would modify it to have a static wedge. 

Nebraska

I have an older model  3 point county line splitter, it does the job, I would recommend  it if you have a access to a tractor or skid steer with enough hydraulic capacity. Basically no maintenance  I have replaced the chinesium front cylinder seal and a hose.  

TroyC

I have the Countyline splitter, Kohler engine, bought it 4 years ago. Think it is 22 tons.  Starts right up, runs and works good. Have had no problems with it. Uses very little gas, don't run it hard.
It doesn't get commercial duty use, just splits wood for the campfire. It goes vertical for the big cookies but that's a lot of work.

I'd really like to have the side arms on it to catch the splits. Will probably make one this season. If I recall it was on sale and just under 900.00 when I bought it.

upnut

I have the same splitter as TroyC, it has been a good machine. Did have to replace the engine at 6 years old, suddenly lost compression for some reason. Really like the splits catcher, plus built a stout steel plate cover for the engine. You can see one of the support arms in this pic, another was added along with the steel cover plate...



 

Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

TroyC

Yep, looks like it. I've heard those small Kohler motors have a plastic or nylon coated  cam gear. If you still have that old motor maybe it could be repaired rather easily. 

Like that catcher, and the engine cover is a good idea. Guess I have 2 upgrades now!

upnut

Quote from: TroyC on January 22, 2022, 06:24:06 PM
Yep, looks like it. I've heard those small Kohler motors have a plastic or nylon coated  cam gear. If you still have that old motor maybe it could be repaired rather easily.

Like that catcher, and the engine cover is a good idea. Guess I have 2 upgrades now!
The old engine sits on my workbench, thanks for the tip! 
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

farmfromkansas

I bought one of those county line TSC splitters after the made in USA one I had was stolen.  Works better than I expected.  Hated the stand it came with, took it off and welded on a jack, as lifting the thing to hook it to the truck is hard on a weak back.  Was that split catcher an option or something you welded on?
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

upnut

Quote from: farmfromkansas on January 23, 2022, 10:19:18 AM
I bought one of those county line TSC splitters after the made in USA one I had was stolen.  Works better than I expected.  Hated the stand it came with, took it off and welded on a jack, as lifting the thing to hook it to the truck is hard on a weak back.  Was that split catcher an option or something you welded on?
The split catcher is a bolt on accessory, works well as intended. I don't stack huge chunks on it, too light for that. Usually quarter really big chunks in the vertical position, resplit on horizontal. 

Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

TroyC

upnut- did you weld the cross pieces on the wedge or did it come that way? I've been trying to figure out how to make a slip-on type for doing a 4 way split on the smaller stuff and take it off for the bigger stuff.

upnut

Quote from: TroyC on January 23, 2022, 11:29:47 AM
upnut- did you weld the cross pieces on the wedge or did it come that way? I've been trying to figure out how to make a slip-on type for doing a 4 way split on the smaller stuff and take it off for the bigger stuff.
TroyC- That's a slip-on 4-way from TSC that was available at the time as an option. The design limits it to smaller stuff, the retainer bends too easily if it gets stuck in big gnarly pieces. I like it for splitting kindling....


 
Works ok on small, straight grain stuff.
Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

peakbagger

I have a countryline with Kohler from two years ago. It starts and runs well. There is or was a defect with the air cleaner cover. It has a recessed dimple in the cover for the wingnut to screw down. That collects water and funnels it down into the air cleaner. Luckilly the rod is offset from the carb opening. I resolved the issue with a couple of O rings to seal this opening plus keep it covered. 

The second issue is the engine is quite exposed to splits dropping off. I would recommend a deflector guard. 

Those two items aside it splits what I need at a reasonable speed. 

TroyC

upnut, if your splitter is handy, could you get me a pic of your log catcher and the distance between the mount holes? I have some time now that I could fabricate something and attach it when I get back to the camp. Easier here than in the woods.

upnut

TroyC- It looks like this one, the specs say 11" center to center for the bolt holes. I'll measure mine today when I go to the shop....

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/countyline-log-catcher


Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

TroyC

Thanks! That will give me something to do today. :laugh:

mike_belben

i have about the same splitter but branded a husky.  there are some slight changes as mine is old but i can see quite a few elements as whatever big chinese plant evolved the design.  engine was on the other side but the beam is the same.  mine has a footplate with no ribs. i cant imagine it bending as i have stalled it with all 13hp in black gum.. but that new footplate is stronger. i wish they were pushing a flat into a stationary wedge though.

mine has been passed around quite a few times and everyone has added their signature.  tongue change, engine swap to 13hp honda, i welded on rebar catcher trays on both sides and pile wood onto it off my limb conveyor chopsaw rack thingy. and i welded it into a 6ish  then 5ish then irregular 4 way wedge.  it doesnt make 4 equal sized pieces unless in about a 15" round.  the cross wings are up pretty high so a 6" round will only split one time as it goes under the wings.





these early kicker triangles REALLY help shorten up the stroke by spreading the piece and tearing it instead of knifing all the way down.  in small straight limbwood it pops early and i peel the piece apart by hand,  flinging to the pile to my left rear in the natural tug direction so that tearing and throwing is one motion. all as the cylinder retracts and ive got two hands ready to rotate or grab the next piece thats usually staged on the rebar deck.

  in stuff sized to get 4 equal splits it goes faster by having the bottom two quarters flare out and tear ahead of the knife from those kickers.  big production increase once i got it all dialed in. most of my oak only needs a half stroke.  i keep a sharp hatchet right there for a quick sever on stringy ones while the ram goes home.  i only like splitting for an hour or two at a time but can make quite a pile if nothing breaks and the kids arent up my skirt.










as a 6 and 5 it made a lot of kindling/small wood that i dont need and two weaker tabs kept deforming so i cut them off when i stopped selling firewood.  you can still do big rounds with a multi-way if you have a large enough table to roll it off center and nibble away from the sides, thats the weakest, straightest fiber is the perimeter.  you dont wanna aim for the bullseye on a big round with a multiway.

the round point just helps safely locate the point of impact because the knife enters the end grain.  its like a lathe center, a lot of times i am lifting a block off the bed with my left hand to have it pass through just right and i want minimal pinch area for a finger to wander into.

its only sat a year but its in plain view.  i prefer it looks rusty, broken and tangled in briars to discourage anyone from cutting my fence and dragging it off. if it were shiny it probably woulda grown legs.  thats why i dont paint anything.  
Praise The Lord

mike_belben

i will probably mount it on the skid steer some day when i get the engine rebuilt, and mod that rebar rack into a good long scoop for picking big ones up or loading a whole magazine full.  thatd be pretty good for dealing with big fat yard trees i think. make the mess where the tree falls, pile the wood, then use the skeleton grapple to get the wood pile shook out and into a trailer then the brush all piled to burn.
Praise The Lord

TroyC

Mike- That's quite a splitter ram there. Interesting having the center point- that would help keep the occasional log from sliding upward.

mike_belben

nothing ever moves.  you stab it just a touch and thats the spot its going no matter what. i use a piece of sacrificial wood laying on the bed at the foot plate to shorten stroke, and so that the knife goes completely through a tough fibery piece so i dont have to rip the last inch apart.  well a lot of times i plop a round up ontop that hunk of wood if i want to raise the intersect point or if its gonna jam under the wings as a single split.  better to raise it for a double split with 2 pieces of kindling. i heave it up onto that end block, hold it level, let the point touch and then my hand comes off and it does the rest just perfect.  took a few revisions so excuse the ugly. it makes shiny new wood that no one wants to pay for, so forget em.  they can go bust their own.
Praise The Lord

mike_belben

if youre gonna start modding wedges, ALWAYS stagger the engagement.  notice not one pair of mine enters fiber at the same time as another pair. this way i can often keep the pump in high displacement mode for an extra inch or 6 before it kicks down to slow mode.  

if you start a bunch of points at once, youll be dropping to low gear as soon as you touch wood. a fast splitter is on that stays in high gear longer. more production for less time and fuel.

also dont forget that the further back you stage a wing, the wider the piece has already spread from the previous stage, so that wing needs to meet the wood further out.  it is much better for a point to meet the fiber than a flat.  this way the point touches the end grain and holds it. a flat knife edge that is touched late in the stroke when pieces are flared way open will often be slid across instead of sliding through the wood to separate fibers.  makes a big wad of wood mess. 

thick about stabbing a table with a point verse a flat knife edge.  which one lets you gouge deeper with the same force?  the point.
Praise The Lord

upnut

Quote from: TroyC on January 24, 2022, 08:59:42 AM
Thanks! That will give me something to do today. :laugh:
I can confirm, 11" center to center. The decking on mine is flat stock instead of square tubing, the brackets look the same.
Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

TroyC

Great! Maybe I'll drill one end and wait till camp to drill the other, Never can tell, maybe they changed the hole pattern.

TroyC

Quit raining long enough today to get the splitter cradle mostly done.




Started out with some stuff I took off an old boat trailer.




Made a couple extra spacers and Ill get the ends on when it get to the camp.

SwingOak

I have the 22 ton model made for Tractor Supply by Speeco. I think it was $900 at the time, and on sale. I haven't needed more power than it has, and it will even cut a log cross grain. I have the log catcher and four way splitter accessory. The 4 way wedge drops on the main wedge, and the label said to use in soft wood only. I found it didn't save any time. 

My dad bought the exact same one, and hasn't had a problem with his either. Can't really speak for the new ones that aren't made inthe USA anymore. But, if you happen to get a lead on a used one, it gets the job done. 

The Kohler engine is good on gas, but doesn't like to start when it's below 30°F, which works out pretty well for me, because I don't like splitting wood when it's below 30°F anyway.

Just kidding, I split wood when I have time. IF I know it's going to be cold, I'll park it in the shop the night before or just give it a shot of happy gas.

thecfarm

On the hard starting when it's cold, a magnetic heater and a moving blanket will help out a lot!!!
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

TroyC

SwingOak- thanks for the info on the 4 way. I only split oak so guess I'll pass on pursuing that for a project. The catcher I made will prevent having to pick up the splits, probably saving more time than a 4 way.

SwingOak

Plus, sometimes I like to keep splits large so they burn slower. Sometimes with a big log, I might split it 5 or 6 ways. I found it wasn't really useful for me. 

I will add that despite the "softwood only" label, it worked fine with straight grain hardwoods but poorly with wood with an interlocking grain like Elm. 

stavebuyer

Quote from: SwingOak on January 28, 2022, 06:05:57 PM
Plus, sometimes I like to keep splits large so they burn slower. Sometimes with a big log, I might split it 5 or 6 ways. I found it wasn't really useful for me.

I will add that despite the "softwood only" label, it worked fine with straight grain hardwoods but poorly with wood with an interlocking grain like Elm.
Thats the main issue with multi-wing wedges; A small percentage of splits come out the desired size dependent on log diameter, position of the pith, and knots.

farmfromkansas

  About the speed of your engine on these countyline splitters, do you guys run yours at full speed?  I usually just run mine fast enough to do the job. Same thing with my lawnmowers and the mill as well.  Should I be running as fast as it will go?
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

TroyC

Usually run mine a tick above half speed or so. Not in a hurry and it is less noisy. Very fuel efficient. I only split for campfire wood so speed is not necessary.

btulloh

Running the splitter engine at lower rpms works for me too.  Lawnmowers are designed to run at governor max speed though. Blade speed should be at max to do the best job, especially if you run mulching blades. If you are happy with the results at lower rpms, then I suppose that's a good thing.  Reduced rpms on the lawnmower might actually lead to reduced engine life, but that's above my pay grade. 
HM126

TroyC

Quote from: btulloh on February 07, 2022, 09:02:59 AMReduced rpms on the lawnmower might actually lead to reduced engine life, but that's above my pay grade.


I'm curious, how would that work? I realize bushogs and such are designed to run at speed, but if I slow my lawnmower down, can I wear the engine faster?

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

jb616

I've worked on small equipment since middle school and it is my experience (no formal training) that you just run them up against the governor and let it do it's job. Sometimes it's not good to run them at part throttle with a load, just like lugging a stick shift car up a hill to the point where its chugging. When the governor is working correctly and there is no load, the throttle is barely open to keep it at 3200-3600 rpm. It's not like a car where you are flat footing it and the 4bbls are kicking in :)

Hilltop366

Theory goes that depending on how the oil is distributed in the engine and the efficiency of the system at lower rpm there is a chance that some engines will not distribute the oil adequately for proper lubrication.

I think this is/was more of a problem with the horizontal crank engines with splash lube system that had a piece of metal on the end of the connecting rod big end that would sling some oil every rotation as the piece of metal would dip in the oil and splash some around.

Perhaps @sawguy21 could add to this or disprove it.

sawguy21

The splash lube system works very well at the speeds these engines normally operate at. However regular maintenance is very important, many engines suffer an early death from lack of oil changes and keeping the cooling fins clear. To answer @TroyC question, the engine will overheat if run too slow because it is now  working too hard and the cooling fan is not supplying enough air. Besides, the lawn won't look good.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

upnut

There is a throttle stop screw(for lack of a better term) that you can adjust on the Kohlers that will limit the WOT to wherever you want it. That way someone unfamiliar with your preference won't run way higher rpm's than you wish, and you can push the throttle to the same rpm's every time.

Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

stavebuyer

I run my mower at governed speed; same as I used to run the 38hp Kohler on the firewood processor. The Honda's on my elevator and Supersplit ran just over a fast idle. I wouldn't hesitate to run at any speed as long as you aren't lugging and stalling but I don't think the countyline splitter has enough pump to drag the motor down that much. 

Old saw fixer

     Don't forget the cooling fan on an air cooled engine is the flywheel.  Run the engine too slow and it might not cool itself, just sayin'
Stihl FG 2, 036 Pro, 017, HT 132, MS 261 C-M, MSA 140 C-B, MS 462 C-M, MS 201 T C-M
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Logrite Cant Hook (with log stand), and Hookaroon

rusticretreater

I just got back from a trip to my local co-op and the tractor supply store that was right across the road from there.  I looked at the new DR 22T log splitter at the co-op $1700 and the County Line log splitter at $1500.  I am definitely going with the DR log splitter.  There was no comparison in quality and workmanship and the DR comes with splinter baskets on both sides.  County Line says theirs is more powerful and faster, but I know a good machine when I see one.

The YardMax Log splitter is one of the most popular out there.  But it is also sold at the big box stores so I am already kinda put off.  Maybe unfair, but I think you understand my reasoning there.

A lot of folks like the Champion splitter, but it doesn't go vertical.
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upnut

When your old splitter looks like this(note the TLC)...



 

The new County Line splitter @$999.99 becomes quite appealing. The old one, bought for $150.00 at a local flea market, with continuous tinkering, served two families quite well. I've been satisfied with the new one over 7 years.....



 

Scott B.
I did not fall, there was a GRAVITY SURGE!

woodroe

I've been renting splitters for a few years, a good way to try them out I guess.
They had DR splitters 24" that I liked and worked well, vertical option was a plus for me. Have plenty of pasture pine culls
some 2' dia.
They went to County line 24" last year with the vertical option as well. Somehow the hyd lever
became hard to operate, lots of resistance, not smooth.
Did what I needed and returned it. The beauty of renting .
I would like to own one so there isn't the pressure of having to split 2 cords in a day but
like a lot of purchases these days it can be a crap shoot with the quality of the products .
However, reading the online reviews on some of todays splitters makes me want to continue renting.


Skidding firewood with a kubota L3300.

Spike60

My 2 1/2 cents on the engine speed discussion is that all of this stuff should be run at full governed engine speed. The guys who have mentioned oil flow and air cooling are correct. I think much of the "half throttle" argument is based on the impression that it sounds like you are "going easy" on the engine, but if fact the opposite is taking place. The engine is well out of it's power curve when run at part throttle.

Plus, everything the engine is running is also running at half speed, which is not good for those components either. The splitter pump, hydro transmissions, belts and such are all more stressed when not driven at design speeds.
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ricksca

The stock hydraulic filter on a Countyline 22 ton splitter says "25 Micron". Wix makes a 20 and a 30 micron. Would it be better to go 5 microns too big or 5 M's too small?

sawguy21

You probably be better off with the 30 micron, 20 may restrict flow too much 
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

doc henderson

mine on the return is 10.  for what it is worth.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

hedgerow

Quote from: ricksca on March 19, 2023, 06:41:59 PM
The stock hydraulic filter on a Countyline 22 ton splitter says "25 Micron". Wix makes a 20 and a 30 micron. Would it be better to go 5 microns too big or 5 M's too small?
I always run 10 Micron on my splitters and on the splitters I service and or repair and resell. Surplus Center in Lincoln Nebraska is normally were I buy my filters from. 

woodroe

Quote from: Spike60 on February 11, 2022, 06:03:44 AM
My 2 1/2 cents on the engine speed discussion is that all of this stuff should be run at full governed engine speed.
My Troy-Bilt with the GX160 Honda engine has only one speed, full throttle.
So there must be something to it.
Makes you wonder why some of the other engine mfgs. have variable speed engines on splitters.
Skidding firewood with a kubota L3300.

doc henderson

splitting wood is a social event sometimes and we like running the 18 hp at idle to 1/3rd throttle.  moves slower and we can easily talk over it.  has plenty of power.  Spike is the concerns cooling and oil distribution?  It has a filter and a low oil (pressure?) shutoff.  It has a remote exhaust so it is not bad a full throttle but with a 28 gpm pump, it goes fine at lower speed.  

edit:  I was farther behind than I realized and I see the explanation below.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

I have a tach and hour meter.  I have the low oil shut off (ground) or can be wired to light a light.  It comes off the oil filter housing.  If I wanted to add a temp gage, where would I put the thermistor and what would be a temp above which I should be concerned.  would it go in the block below the oil level?  aluminum block, It has two drain plugs and I could tap into one of them,
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

beenthere

Have had the same splitter since Jan. 1985. Always have run 8hp Briggs on low throttle (not idle, just low rpm, maybe 1/3 throttle as Doc suggested).

Just feels better than running WOT. Also less tired working around it, maybe feeling more relaxed. 874 hours on the Briggs.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

hedgerow

The only small engine I have that I don't run WOT is the one on my my water tender trailer that fills sprayers and other tanks. Normally run it half throttle to have time to get the chemicals in the inductor before the sprayer is full. 

doc henderson

OK.  I ordered a oil temp probe and gauge.  I ordered a red light for the low pressure sender.  I may get a volt and amp meter, but they I need  DASH.  I could get an oil pressure gauge, but really things are out in the weather, and I already have some stuff to replace occasionally like toggle switches.  they make a little insert to give a second port. I could remove the sender that goes to ground with low pressure and add the gauge, but lets not get too crazy. 
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

GaTrapper

Has anyone purchased the County Line lately? 

I was getting ready to buy one, but several of the recent reviews on their website haven't been great. 

I've heard that the machine is very hard to find parts for.

Thoughts?

TroyC

I used mine last week, first time in two years. Started on the first pull. It probably only has 20-30 hours on it as I only use it to split campfire wood for the hunt camp. Made a log cradle for it, worked good. Looks like most of the parts on mine would be easy to find, generic sort of stuff. I keep it inside when not in use and have had no issues with it. Nothing has broken and it works as expected. Price has gone up considerably since I bought mine but they still put them on sale occasionally.

GaTrapper

Quote from: TroyC on September 26, 2023, 08:23:45 AM
I used mine last week, first time in two years. Started on the first pull. It probably only has 20-30 hours on it as I only use it to split campfire wood for the hunt camp. Made a log cradle for it, worked good. Looks like most of the parts on mine would be easy to find, generic sort of stuff. I keep it inside when not in use and have had no issues with it. Nothing has broken and it works as expected. Price has gone up considerably since I bought mine but they still put them on sale occasionally.
I've watched them creep up in prices since 2020. Now I'm beginning to wonder if they're still the best value log splitter or if I'm better off buying something different. 

TroyC

Well, everything has gone up, salaries included. I thought I saw the splitters at TSC yesterday around 1400 or so. Didn't look close, just glanced. There have been some improvements to them since I bought mine. At least you won't have to wait on a splitter like you would a sawmill. :)

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others


thecfarm

I bought a wood splitter. I've used it a lot for years. Maybe put 100 cords through it. 
I never bought a part for it.
I have not used it for 5 years now.
And I am hard on stuff.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

rusticretreater

Like you, I couldn't get past what I was reading about the box store splitters and tractor supply ones like CountyLine.

I wanted the 25 ton DR splitter at $1800, but opted for a 25 ton splitter off of craigslist, (not countyline) for $900.  

Then I saw the DR splitter in person at the local co-op and it was massive in size compared to the one I bought, heavier metal and much better quality. I was disappointed until I remembered how much it would cost to ship it.
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2,000,000th Forestry Forum Post

Don P

I bought a Lowes/ Craftsman a year ago, my partner has a County line about 5 years old. The frame and ram are basically the same, his has a vertical Briggs that is a push bulb prime, not a fan but it is still working. It is starting to use oil but has a number of hours/cords on it. The engine sits a little higher than mine to make pump clearance under it. Mine is a Kohler, choked so no primer bulb, so far a first or second pull engine. I did hydrolock it today by tipping it way up to move it out of where it was by a pile. I think they are about identical. I doubt there is a part on either I would worry too much about replacing exactly.

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