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New wood stove/chimney

Started by Firewoodjoe, February 12, 2022, 01:08:36 PM

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Firewoodjoe

Well I wanted another wood stove in the house. I had one a few years ago and took it out so the chimney location is still there. It went straight up and out. About 22 foot of actual pipe. Roof is metal with a 12/12 pitch. Steep. It was a real pain to clean and I got down drafts often. Well today I just bought a hearthstone Bennington 8350. I was thinking putting a new chimney through the wall. What's your experiences with either option. Being draft and cleaning. I figured through the wall I could clean from the bottom up and not have any mess in the house. 🤷‍♂️

stavebuyer

Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 12, 2022, 01:08:36 PM
Well I wanted another wood stove in the house. I had one a few years ago and took it out so the chimney location is still there. It went straight up and out. About 22 foot of actual pipe. Roof is metal with a 12/12 pitch. Steep. It was a real pain to clean and I got down drafts often. Well today I just bought a hearthstone Bennington 8350. I was thinking putting a new chimney through the wall. What's your experiences with either option. Being draft and cleaning. I figured through the wall I could clean from the bottom up and not have any mess in the house. 🤷‍♂️
I put a woodstove in the basement and the floor plan made it much simpler to come out through the wall. I cleaned it from outside. Being outside it cooled quicker, and sometime didn't draft all that great when starting a fire in the shoulder seasons.
The metal flashing kits they sell for going through metal roofs are about as thick as aluminum foil. Thats what I have now and have to deal with more mess inside. Going straight up draws better and burns a little cleaner I think.

mike_belben

as a rule of thumb i have avoided chimney cleanings via hot fires. 
Praise The Lord

newoodguy78

Be careful putting a chimney near the eaves of a metal roof. The snow sliding off and taking the chimney with it is a real issue. 

Firewoodjoe

Thanks. Yes the snow is always a issue. If I went out the wall it would fix that problem. Also the ceiling is tall like 20 feet. I could run it inside so it was warm and run it out the wall up higher. But that may make it hard to clean also. 

Firewoodjoe

Quote from: mike_belben on February 12, 2022, 03:34:21 PM
as a rule of thumb i have avoided chimney cleanings via hot fires.
Yes I agree but you just hope it's clean? I used a mirror on my old chimney but that much pipe it's hard to see good. 

Firewoodjoe

What if I built a enclosed chimney outside like a fireplace. All sided and insulated. It would basically be inside away from the cold but have a outside clean out. 

mike_belben

Quote from: Firewoodjoe on February 12, 2022, 07:25:11 PM
Quote from: mike_belben on February 12, 2022, 03:34:21 PM
as a rule of thumb i have avoided chimney cleanings via hot fires.
Yes I agree but you just hope it's clean? I used a mirror on my old chimney but that much pipe it's hard to see good.
Put a light in the cleanout and look down from the roof.. Clean as a whistle. Small stove that couldnt offer much heat if burning in the creosote range. I ran 750 ish avg stack and 900 now and then to keep it clean. 
Praise The Lord

SwampDonkey

Here's my stove pipe into the flu. Cleanout at the elbow. Flu goes straight up through closet space on two floors and up near the peak of the roof. The stove pipe is in line with the main baffle, so I can brush straight through the stove pipe to the flu. Then straight up the flu from the clean out. Never more than a little soot, never seen any creosote yet in 4 years. I brush once a month and inspect, regardless until late spring when I hardly burn much wood April-June. I have to watch for birds in the summer, starlings are like chimney swifts around here. I open the basement door, then the stove door and they shoot straight out the door. :D So I inspect before the first burn in the fall.



"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Firewoodjoe

It's nearly impossible to get up that part of the roof. Metal and 12/12 pitch. Then if you go by the 2-3-10 rule the chimney is about 10-12 feet tall on the roof. You have to take the stove apart or take the roof chimney down. It sucked. No matter where I put it it has to be cleaned from the bottom but it's a mess when done inside the house. Out the wall would solve that. 

SwampDonkey

I put a pail under mine, and sweep any minimal soot dust on concrete floor with a fireplace sweep. My flu is 43 feet. I have no trouble at all with cleaning. My roof is also 12/12 pitch and 26 gauge galum roof. 4' of chimney outside clears the peek of my roof. All kinds of draft. You don't need 12' of flu outside the roof near the peek. Maybe if the flu is down near the outside wall.
"No amount of belief makes something a fact." James Randi

1 Thessalonians 5:21

2020 Polaris Ranger 570 to forward firewood, Husqvarna 555 XT Pro, Stihl FS560 clearing saw and continuously thinning my ground, on the side. Grow them trees. (((o)))

Firewoodjoe

Mine was 12 feet because it exits the roof down from the peek. Towards the outside wall.  So to get it about the peek it had to be that tall. And your cleaning a stove in the basement mine is in my living room. I think I'm going to move it to the cable end wall and build a Alcove where my French doors are. They only get opened for the Christmas tree anyways.

Old Greenhorn

Joe, I hope you don't mind if I tag onto your thread here with a similar issue. It seems silly to start another thread. If it bothers you, we can't just ask everyone to ignore my post here.
--------------------
 I have a stove and steel Chimney in my shop I am not happy with. Some of the details on on the other thread I post to daily, but don't mater here. My shop is a block building with good straight walls. I am thinking of building on a standard masonry chimney about halfway down the eve side wall. I would have to cut out part of the eve to run it straight up, of course. The stove would have a pipe going up and over to the thimble in the wall about 10' above the floor.. But I would really like to be able to clean it from below. The roof is 2 stories up and I believe I would have to top the chimney about 6' over the eve to make code for clearance. (I have to re-check the math on that, but it's pretty close.)
 I am not sure how I could build it and be able to run a brush up from the bottom with standard chimney block and a clay liner. Does anybody have any experience with this? Perhaps @Don P could weigh in because it's a codes thing too?

 When I bought a new insert stove for the house several years ago I was told the code required a full SS liner for new installs. I had thought that meant all class A appliances, but now I am thinking it was only for inserts to ensure good draft bypassing the big smoke shelf areas inside fireplaces. Does anybody know? Are clay lined chimneys still legal for class A? It's confusing to wend my way through the codes for town, county, state, and federal.

 Before somebody suggests it, let me just say I do NOT want a prefab (metalbestos type) chimney going up the outside wall. The cost is a killer and it's not permanent, it has a life and will require replacement at some point, even if it's 25 years. If I do this, I want to be the little pig who built his house out of brick. :)

 Joe, I don't understand how you got downdrafts with a chimney that tall. Could there be something else going on there or perhaps the chimney wasn't warm enough for it's length? Maybe a different cap design could be tried?
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

Firewoodjoe

Heck I don't mind. I don't think I can help you with your code problems though. As for the down draft. Only thing I could think of is the roof is steep on both sides facing north and south and when the winter wind blows from the north it blew over the peek and created some kind of turbulence on the back down hill side. It was a full time fire so always hot. 🤷‍♂️

Don P

 Metal is melted in masonry, you're good. I think chapter 10 of the IRC is chimneys, or NFPA 211. Masonry is class A if built right.  It is lined, minimum thickness and reinforcement requirements etc. I'm not a huge fan and prefer to line them with stainless. I guess I should modify that to, I'm not a huge fan of the spindly crack prone masonry chimney, masonry needs bulk to go tall. We removed 2 chimneys in the old farmhouse, the old unlined lime mortar original was just lifting off brick by brick. The more modern lined chimney was still cracked through at the upper ceiling and roof lines. Well smoked attics. That's why I like the long steel tube. We'll lay up brick with an interior unlined dimension of 12x12 and run 8" SS with the required 2" air space around it up those masonry chases.

Firewoodjoe

I've been looking stuff up tonight to do a brick surround for this new to me stove and the way I read it is it has to be 8" thick to be it's own fire barrier. If just a row of red brick it needs a air space or a non combustible behind it. I'd assume a full chimney would apply the same rules. I know our old house dad built was cement block chimney and that was not 8" this. 🤷‍♂️ But that was 25 years ago lol Also dad had a metal clean out door cemented in at the bottom if that's what you mean. They make flexible handles for the brushes. 

Don P

This is the building code chapter on chimneys, section R1003;
CHAPTER 10 CHIMNEYS AND FIREPLACES, 2018 Virginia Residential Code | ICC Digital Codes (iccsafe.org)

NFPA211 is here, there are easier to read pdf versions online, this was just a bookmark I had. On this I think the NFPA is easier to understand.
NFPA 211: Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents, and Solid Fuel-Burning Appliances

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