Hi, I bought a acre of land that needed cleared off so I thought might as well do I my self. I have been searching and reading forums for a couple of weeks on saws. First I wanted the ms290 farmboss, then looked at the ms291 and ms392. But after talking with some friends and my grandfather they have always had better luck with the husqvarna. So i ordered the 562xp 20" bar extra chain and the 3 things of premixed gas/oil and forester full warp chaps for $725. I owned a couple of small echos and small homeowner stihls. I hope the husqvarna impresses me. lol I wasnt going to get chaps at first but after reading a few people saved there legs i changed my mind.
I was wondering how these saws are holding up today? I know they been out for a few years now. The computer contol carb kinda scares me.
NovaSS,welcome to the forum. A acre that needs clearing. Where's all the wood going? Building a house on the clearing?
It's a great saw.
On the first start up. Find a large log you can bury the tip and run the saw WOT for at least 5 min. making bucking cuts constantly. The computer does the set up at this time. This is not the time to putz around and idle the saw and cut twigs.
Great saw. Earlier models had problems with rewind case breaking ( under warranty). Should be solved by now. +2 on the WOT, follow the book on that.
Just wait till you have a few tanks of gas used, it gets better.. ;D
I just read the online manual on the saw and it says to not run at wot for the first 10 hours of use.
just run the saw as you normally would run it. you don't have to do the tuning cuts with it. it learns every time you run the saw so the tuning cuts just tune it for the cuts your making not future cuts. you can run it at wot without any problems as long as its ubder a load you good to go.
Quote from: NovaSS on November 12, 2013, 01:24:38 PM
I just read the online manual on the saw and it says to not run at wot for the first 10 hours of use.
I assume that is about WOT
out of wood, and not about WOT in general - and is normal advice. ;)
i'm sure allot of Husy XP fans on this site and i love the older models as i used lots of them over the years but i am a little weary of the XP saws, now mind you i only experienced one and this one did not like to re-start when hot but man was that sucker fast when it did run :o
I read on another tread theres alittle trick you had to do on the first models after it was hot. Maybe they fixed it on the newer models
I haven't had any problems with mine. I run 2 autotune saws and never had any issues hot or cold.
Hi Dan, how do you compare the 550xp to the 562xp? I was thinking about the 550 but I only had to pay a extra $60 to get the 562
Quote from: NovaSS on November 12, 2013, 11:14:58 PM
Hi Dan, how do you compare the 550xp to the 562xp? I was thinking about the 550 but I only had to pay a extra $60 to get the 562
There is a big differense in cc and power, and of course in weight as well. They aren't really comparable, it depends on what you need or want. :)
Both the 550 and the 562 are great saws. The 562 is just a lot more saw - great to have the extra power, if you don't mind the extra weight that comes with it.
Like SawTroll said they don't really compare.
The 562 is my go to firewood saw. For me it feels right. It pulls with authority.
The 550 is smaller and lighter and the heated handles make it the everything else saw.
The 562 runs a 18" bar with full chisel chain and the 550 runs a 16" bar with full chisel chain. They can run larger bars but I don't like to spend my time sharpening extra chain and I have larger saws with larger bars.
Oh and the heated handles are really nice!!! To the point I'm thinking of selling the 562 to get a 562xpg.
Hope that helps
im sure the heated handles are nice up north. would be nice some days, but dont think I really need them in florida.
I never even thought of the heated handles. Never liked them. Riding snow machines with heated handles then you climb of and work in the snow with those warm gloves. Then back to the heated handles to warm up again. In no time at all your gloves are soaking wet. I already use up 5-6 pairs of gloves a day doing firewood.
I'm with DDDfarmer about snow and heated handles, but they are real nice on the hands when cold and not working in snow, even on a wet damp day.
Here's my 562XP with 16" b/c. The short bar makes the saws powerband even more crazy hyper, Also the best handling b/c for felling, limbing and topping small to medium timber. I saved the spruce trees at the customers request. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20131022_143954.jpg)
Not bad, dropped all those trees and missed the crapper. 8)
Gotta watch out for the important things ;D
Quote from: DDDfarmer link= topic=70377.msg1057192#msg1057192 date=1384444377
Not bad, dropped all those trees and missed the crapper. 8)
Gotta watch out for the important things ;D
Yeah that crapper was a prime target alright :D but those poor little spruce had their days numbered . :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20131022_144305.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/20131022_142751.jpg)
Quote from: NovaSS on November 14, 2013, 12:54:35 AM
im sure the heated handles are nice up north. would be nice some days, but dont think I really need them in florida.
Most of my saws have heated handles, and it didn't happen by accident! :)
I used heated handles when I was cutting logs with my Father. I did not have trouble with my hands until I grab a chain and the links would fill up with snow and get my gloves wet.If I was just cutting the trees down and limbing my hands was just about all set. But start hooking up chains,I was in trouble. I was warming my hands by the exhaust pipe of the tractor. The heated handles made working in the works fun again. Now that I live here I could just keep 3-4 diffeant pair of gloves. If I ran out I could get more from the house.
I worked for over 20 years at a small regional airport that had commercial traffic. Mostly commuter airlines with younger pilots. Now even a small regional jet can generate a lot of jet blast. If there was a construction project anywhere on the airfield they would do their best, if no personnel on site, to blow the little blue buildings over. Saw a many blown over.
Speaking of needing heated handles in the winter, here's what I use when it's -30 belowF and snow, no heated handles just a good pair of leather trigger finger mitts with matching wool liners. Look close their laying by my helmet
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/scan.jpg) .
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/SDC10300.JPG)
Willard - Picture?
Quote from: Oliver1655 on November 15, 2013, 03:15:25 AM
Willard - Picture?
I've had this problem before, my pics sometimes just disappear off my posts. ???
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/SDC10301.JPG)
Willard what's the blue on the side of your saw?
Quote from: Oliver1655 on November 15, 2013, 12:17:23 PM
Willard what's the blue on the side of your saw?
Oliver that's part of the winter kit Husky supplies with the saw for cold climates, free option. Stihl has them too. The blue cover cuts down on cold air and snow cooling down the saw which can cause icing up problems. There is also a plate that redirects the air injection flow also. A must to have working in freezing temps, the pic of my 372XP here was on a minus 30 below F day with no wind.
Quote from: HolmenTree on November 15, 2013, 01:03:21 PM
Quote from: Oliver1655 on November 15, 2013, 12:17:23 PM
Willard what's the blue on the side of your saw?
Oliver that's part of the winter kit Husky supplies with the saw for cold climates, free option. Stihl has them too. The blue cover cuts down on cold air and snow cooling down the saw which can cause icing up problems. There is also a plate that redirects the air injection flow also. A must to have working in freezing temps, the pic of my 372XP here was on a minus 30 below F day with no wind.
Those blue kits came with all my heated Husky saws, but I never used a single one of them. I simply don't care to cut when it is
that cold! :)
My usual limit is around -15C.
I got to say after using homeowner saws and small stihls. This saw has alot more power then I thought it would. I flooded it trying to hot figure out hot starting and this video helped alot. It shows hot start and how to start after flooding if your new to this saw like me.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUChc8SvWjg (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lUChc8SvWjg)
The saw is a pain , my story i have Hukies as wen the 154 came out long time ago many cords of wood .first 562 purchase march 2013 run one tank wound start after , so i work white my 354 .had here in the shop 4 times and after 12 month and last chance just re fill the running saw she Brock only 96 hour so big debate the give me a new one . here i go again 15 hour s and she sucks air on the main sail but the shop are not listening 1 hour she runs and than she is warm the sealing opens .my partner has also the second one first brock by 32 hour s now he use a Jonsered .his new 3 month old 562 i gave to me white the words drive here to hell ......pain saw i can say for pro loggers a no go till the fix the problem
Olli, if you really don't like it, I'd take it off your hands. I'd pay to ship it ;D
Second round new carp and coil and 10 hour s later same again ....
Quote from: Olli on June 28, 2014, 03:45:23 PM
Second round new carp and coil and 10 hour s later same again ....
Makes me think the carb and coil may not have been the problem.....
My 565Xp eats my Stihl 660 and uses a lot less fuel in doing so. I have actually been looking for another one and will sell the Stihl.
Quote from: Southside logger on June 28, 2014, 09:03:38 PM
My 565Xp eats my Stihl 660 and uses a lot less fuel in doing so. I have actually been looking for another one and will sell the Stihl.
That will of course vary with what you cut, and the cutting attachment on each saw.
I assume you meant to write 562xp.
Looks like a 575 from the signature. A higher revving saw will surely clean up in smaller stuff, but lay into a 36" log...
John,
You are right - fat finger syndrome while typing on the phone. I have a 36" bar for the Stihl and have not had it on the saw for probably a year - just too much to hold out there for long. I run a 24" on both the Husky and the Stihl and yes the Husky revs up higher and cuts faster, at the same time it is a lot easier on fuel. Just my personal preference.
Quote from: Southside logger on July 01, 2014, 11:40:25 PM
John,
You are right - fat finger syndrome while typing on the phone. I have a 36" bar for the Stihl and have not had it on the saw for probably a year - just too much to hold out there for long. I run a 24" on both the Husky and the Stihl and yes the Husky revs up higher and cuts faster, at the same time it is a lot easier on fuel. Just my personal preference.
Think of a 660 as a tractor trailer, and the 562 as a Porsche. The Porsche well be fast, handle and stop. Now hookup a 20,000 pound trailer to it and see what happens. This is basic common sense really.
I agree completely with both of you. My uncle has a 660, it's been on my bench because he says it cuts like crap and his Husky 365 cuts circles around it. 20" on the 365 and 24" on the 660. Now he doesn't like to file a chain and runs them till they won't cut butter, so I take this into account. But he never gets into anything big, and on the occasion he does he thinks it should rip through a 30" stump like a higher revving saw in a 18" log. ::) I add that my 460 will probably out cut it for anything I'll ever cut too, it feels faster side my side in small logs. Just got in a DP cover for the 660, going to throw it on, pulled limiters already, tune it and see what he thinks. If he doesn't like it may be ill pick it up cheap since he's a Husky guy anyway. ;)
Thinking a little more, I did a half dozen Oaks on a job with him last year. Couple down and took out 4 more around 80-90 ft each. He was complaining about the 660 not doing anything on the larger stumps and larger logs. In brought my 361 and 460. Well even the 460 was slow going through some of these, probably 28-30", more on couple stumps. So I pull his 660 and look it over, chain was bad, bad , bad. After he asked why I was sitting on the back of the truck for a while I bring over the 660 with a now sharp chain and preceded to rip through those logs. That day the 660 shined alongside the 361, which did it's share of the smaller logs. :)
Most folks don't need as big a saw as they think. If it is a pro saw, chain and bar are well matched and the operator is skilled there isn't much u can't cut in a timely fashion with what may perceived as a small saw. Of course the Giants in the north west do warrant a biggin.
Quote from: chester_tree _farmah on July 03, 2014, 10:01:41 AM
Of course the Giants in the north west do warrant a biggin.
Chester, not necessarily :D
Way back in the early 1970's a wee little Echo 30cc slayed goliath
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/image0%7E12.jpg)
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/image0-001%7E9.jpg)
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Here's the last page
.
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/21589/image0-003%7E3.jpg)
Boo yeah! :-)
Awesome post. I love seeing that old stuff. Thanks for sharing sir!
Again Willard, very interesting information! Keep it coming.